Ranger Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 There is an article in this months Car Craft magazine about breaking in a new cam. This magazine is geared towards the hot rodder but they mentioned some interesting things I thought you guys would be interested in seeing. I won't go into the pros & cons of ZDDP as it has been well discussed. ZINC LEVELS IN MOTOR OIL YEAR API PPM 1996 SH 1,300 2001 SJ 1,100 2005 SM 870 2006 Shell Rotella (Diesel) 1,400 2006 Q Racing 1,960 2006 Joe Gibbs Racing XP-4 2,800 OILS WITH HIGHER ZDDP LEVELS Castrol Tection Extra 15W40 Chevron Delo 400 15W40 Mobil Delvac 1300 15W40 Shell Rotella T 15W40 Quacker State Q Racing 0W-5, 15W50, 17.5W35 Joe Gibbs RAcing MicroZol 0W-20, 10W30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 ZINC LEVELS IN MOTOR OIL YEAR API PPM 1996 SH 1,300 2001 SJ 1,100 2005 SM 870 What I'd like to know is what constituents were increased with the SM standard? I know the requirements for zinc were lowered, but some others were raised, to offset the drop. I'm not an oil expert to be sure, but I believe that only showing the requirements for zinc as the Car Craft article apparently did paints an unfair picture of the newer motor oils. Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted December 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Well the artical was not about oil. It was actually about how to break in a new cam. A big part of that is lubrication as you would imagine and that is how they got to the subject of ZDDP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazglenn3 Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 That's interesting. I am using Castrol Tection Extra 15W-40 in my car. I was going to use Rotella T, but the store was out at the time. Charles Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rek Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Last summer I replaced the oil in my garden tractors' 6-speed manual tranny with Shell Rotella 30W. I used the same oil(Rotella) in the engine as per the specs (30W). WOW, I didn't think the shifting action was bad with the factory oil in the tranny, UNTILL I shifted it after the Rotella change. Smooth as silk....my Wife even noticed, on the RARE occasion she spared me from the mowing detail. The engine PURRS with Rotella as well. Hail ZDDP.... rek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted December 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Hmm, never thought of using that stuff in my garden tractor. Thanks for the tip Rek. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 I use the Rotella 10W-30 oil in my Fleetwood and my John Deere 318 lawn tractor. The extra antiwear additive is a bonus for the distributor gear in the Fleetwood. The 318 tractor has an Onan 18 HP engine in it and the parts for them are extremely expensive - My hope is to extend its life enough that my grandchildren will use it. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyG Posted December 10, 2006 Report Share Posted December 10, 2006 Rotella 10W-30 sounds like a fine product, I 'd probably use it in my boat (GM 4 cyl) or my lawn tractor, or my lawnmower, or even my 1999 flat tappet STS if I could buy that oil. But I can NEVER figure out why anybody would use a 15W-40 in a Northstar. It just doesn't make sense to me unless you live in a place that gets over 100° F routinely. 4.9's I understand, might benefit a little by quieting the front main thump, but a N*? As for as the SM oils are concerned, use them with confidence. They easily outperform SL and prior ratings in any normal engne service, including taxi. Many things go into designing a motor oil, and ZDP is not the one and only single measure of quality or wear protection. Things like moly, boron, antimony, and other AW compounds are more than enough to compensate for any decrease in ZDP content. One question does come to mind however when I think about the switch from ZDP to other AW compounds. Do they degrade in the same way that ZDP does? My point is, all of us "old timers" have had the privledge of reading the guru's explanation of the Oil Life Monitor. For those of us with, say, 2000 or older cars...before ZDP was lowered.....is the OLM still accurate with SM oil designs? We all heard how the OLM accurately predicted the depletion of ZDP in actual engine service, and how that was the determining factor when predicting when an oil was wore out. Now don't get me wrong, I still am confident that most SM oils will protect my 1999 engine very well. Heck, on that year the maximum oil life was something like 8500 miles. I am just wondering if any years might be affected, or if any oils might NOT work well with the OLM. Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted December 10, 2006 Report Share Posted December 10, 2006 JohnnyG raises an excellent question -- how accurate is a ten-year-old OLM with modern oils? ExcelPlus Librilon is a proprietary oil additive, but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to tell that it's probalby ZDP related. It did everything for my wife's 1999 Pointiac Grand Am GT 3.4 HO that rek says he got with Rotella -- and without even draining the Mobil 1 5W-30 that is in it. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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