mikeyb75nc Posted December 4, 2006 Report Share Posted December 4, 2006 Hi guys! I just got done fixing my friends cad. It had E12, E53 error codes so I did the ign module, coil, cap and rotor. The car now runs but it has a really hard start and you have to pump the gas alot. Owner says it never used to do that so my question is this: do I need to adjust the timing now? It doesn't seem right but figured I'd ask. 1993 sedan deville. PS error codes gone now. Thanks, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted December 5, 2006 Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 Pumping the gas has absolutely no effect on a fuel injected engine other than making the operator feel like he is doing something. Check for a leaky FPR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted December 5, 2006 Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 Pumping the gas has absolutely no effect on a fuel injected engine other than making the operator feel like he is doing something. Check for a leaky FPR. Pumping the gas could actually affect ECM. No? Say ECM sees high TPS signal and may, for example, disable EGRor change ignition timing. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted December 5, 2006 Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 Not positive, but I don't believe so in the crank mode. The only thig I am aware of is holding your foot to the floor enables clear flood mode by disabling the injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted December 5, 2006 Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 I would vote the FPR. How about clearing the codes and seeing what comes back? If nothing comes back but you have a hard-start problem that is worst with a hot engine, the FPR is the most likely culprit. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb75nc Posted December 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 I would vote the FPR. How about clearing the codes and seeing what comes back? If nothing comes back but you have a hard-start problem that is worst with a hot engine, the FPR is the most likely culprit. Yeah i know it shouldn't help to pump the gas with fuel injected car, which is why I thought it might be timing. Error codes cleared and only E52, ecu disconnected. There was no problem with this before, why would the FPR be acting up now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmarinov Posted December 5, 2006 Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 Hi guys! I just got done fixing my friends cad. It had E12, E53 error codes so I did the ign module, coil, cap and rotor. The car now runs but it has a really hard start and you have to pump the gas alot. Owner says it never used to do that so my question is this: do I need to adjust the timing now? It doesn't seem right but figured I'd ask. 1993 sedan deville. PS error codes gone now. Thanks, Mike What kind of engine does your friend have? If it's a N* you cannot set or change the timing. Make sure that the sp wires are mapped to the correct contact points on the ICM (each contact is labeled with its' respective cylinder numer). If it's not a Northy I don't have any direct experience. The fact that you're receiving E codes (and not 'P' codes) and you're talking rotor indicates to me it is not a N*...thanks for the clarification. Mark <!--fonto:Arial--><span style="font-family:Arial"><!--/fonto-->2007 DTS Performance - 50K <!--fontc--></span><!--/fontc--> As a matter of fact, I <i>am</i> driving 70 MPH in a phone booth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb75nc Posted December 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 Yeah, this is not an N* but a 4.9. Motor runs good once started, with out missing, but the cranking takes about 3-5 seconds and barely wants to start. It could be that the battery is low, but it seems strong. From what I've been told there was no other problem before it died. I'm hoping that someone has had exp with this cause it just snowed and is pretty cold out there. Any advice would save me poor paws:) Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmarinov Posted December 5, 2006 Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 Yeah, this is not an N* but a 4.9. Motor runs good once started, with out missing, but the cranking takes about 3-5 seconds and barely wants to start. It could be that the battery is low, but it seems strong. From what I've been told there was no other problem before it died. I'm hoping that someone has had exp with this cause it just snowed and is pretty cold out there. Any advice would save me poor paws:) Mike Hmmm...barely wants to start sounds more like battery/starting system. Slow crank/solenoid click, or normal crank with delayed startup? Is this a Delco battery? If so, does the eye show black or green? If black, that means that the particular cell is no longer viable and may be contributing to your problem (bad battery). As far as timing is concerned, (pardon my ignorance), is this like the old GM distributors with the one bolt you have to loosen to retard/advace the timing by hand? Where I'm going with this is your rotor/cap replacement. I know I screwed up many moons ago with a cap I mounted incorrectly (the ones with the four screws and angled ends). Although you say it runs well after startup so that's what leads me to electrical rather than timing. Mark <!--fonto:Arial--><span style="font-family:Arial"><!--/fonto-->2007 DTS Performance - 50K <!--fontc--></span><!--/fontc--> As a matter of fact, I <i>am</i> driving 70 MPH in a phone booth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb75nc Posted December 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 Yeah, this is not an N* but a 4.9. Motor runs good once started, with out missing, but the cranking takes about 3-5 seconds and barely wants to start. It could be that the battery is low, but it seems strong. From what I've been told there was no other problem before it died. I'm hoping that someone has had exp with this cause it just snowed and is pretty cold out there. Any advice would save me poor paws:) Mike It's optima red cap battery which has plenty of foes where reliability goes. It is probably as simple as not having enough spark to start but I wanted to cover my bases. If this were my own ride I probably wouldn't take so much time or be so cautious. but it's not, and the last thing I want to do is let someone else down. I appreciate all the help and feedback. Sometimes the the answer is right there in front of you but you need someone else to point it out. Thanks again, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 5, 2006 Report Share Posted December 5, 2006 E12 = No distributor signal E53 = Distributor signal interrupt. Sounds like the problem is the cam sensor on the distributor shaft or the associated wiring. If there is no distributor signal, the engine will not run. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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