brmurph Posted December 1, 2006 Report Share Posted December 1, 2006 I will be installing a new front hub and rear knuckle this weekend and I am trying to figure out which loctite to use for the caliper bracket and hub bolts. It would seem that blue would make the most sense because I would like to be able to remove the bolts later if needed without heat :-) but everything I read (like the back of the locktite package) says that I should use red on suppension bolts. Also is there any type of cleanup needed on the old bolts and female threads? Any suggestions? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigCat83 Posted December 1, 2006 Report Share Posted December 1, 2006 Blue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brmurph Posted December 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2006 Here is a post from our old friend shiden_kai (Ian) that suggest to use the red (I verified the part number he gave is red) http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.g...f68811286549f2d . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadillac Posted December 1, 2006 Report Share Posted December 1, 2006 This may not be recommended by the masses but it has served me well for many years. I didn't use loctite on the brake parts or the hubs. I just torque to spec, drive for a week, and check torque again. As long as the bolts haven't loosened (which they didn't) I consider it finished. If it would have needed re-torqueing, I would have repeated the process one more time. If at that time the bolts are loose, I would add the loctite. I hate the stuff and only use it when absolutely needed. Don "Modern warriors saddle iron horses of chrome." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 2, 2006 Report Share Posted December 2, 2006 When I removed the front rotors on my '97 for resurfacing, I used blue Loctite on the caliper bracket upon reassembly. The shop manual only stated to use "Threadlocker" - it did not specify the grade. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
growe3 Posted December 2, 2006 Report Share Posted December 2, 2006 I have done several brake jobs to my STS's, and never use threadlocker. Just make sure the bolts are clean, and then torque them down. Never had any bolts get loose. -George Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 2, 2006 Report Share Posted December 2, 2006 George, Starting with 1997, the front brake caliper mounting changed - there is a separate caliper mounting bracket that bolts to the knuckle. The caliper bolts do not require threadlocker but the bracket to knuckle bolts are large, hex head bolts and the manual states to use threadlocker. The only reason to remove the bracket is to remove the rotor - if the pads just need to be changed, there is no reason to mess with the other bolts. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigCat83 Posted December 2, 2006 Report Share Posted December 2, 2006 In all the years and through all of the brake jobs I completed I've never used Locktite on the caliper bracket screws. I've only cleaned up the cap screws, used a bit of never sieze (Massachusetts road salt) torqued them to spec. and checked them for tightness at every oil change. Never had one loosen up - never. If you feel you must use locktite I would suggest the blue as it's easier to break loose upon your next brake job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brmurph Posted December 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2006 It is amazing how many different answers there on this one (not just this board but autoparts houses and other boards :-). I think I will either go with the blue or none at all. Thanks everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted December 2, 2006 Report Share Posted December 2, 2006 FWIW, I never use it either, though I see it on the threads when I remove them. Probably why I need a cheater bar to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fred Posted December 2, 2006 Report Share Posted December 2, 2006 Loctite is great. My darned Antron-99 Citizen Band radio antenna, The stupid thing was on a 40' pole and would always loosen itself It's three pieces see, Well I put loctite on the son of a and never had to bring it down again.. It didn't seem to affect the signal either.. I still had the same low low SWR and could still get, Oh, 1000-2000 Watts out, Easily. MerryChristmas Be a Capitalist or work for one. Work for a Capitalist or be one. MerryChristmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 3, 2006 Report Share Posted December 3, 2006 Just to clarify - the threadlocker is not used on the caliper mounting bolts. It is used on the large hex bolts that fasten the caliper mounting bracket to the knuckle. These bolts are usually only removed when the rotors need to come off. Front brake pad replacement does not require removal of the bracket so no threadlocker would be required for routine pad replacement. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caddypete Posted December 3, 2006 Report Share Posted December 3, 2006 Usually threadlocker is not needed. But as a rule of thumb blue to keep bolts from coming loose,and red for bolts that are meant to stay permently.You need heat to get a red loctite bolt to come apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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