rcool217 Posted November 23, 2006 Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 Two days ago I had the Low Refrig. Level AC Shutoff message appear on my DIC. I cleared the codes and within 5 minutes it came back on and shut down the compressor. I went and bought a can of R134A and put it in the car. Somethign weird happened while putting it in. The compressor started cycling and I could hear a loud air whishing noise like the freon I was adding was going through the compressor and right back out. Needless to say It didn't charge the system and I still have the code and no cold air. I only need heat right now but I either need to fix this by next summer or buy another car. What is the avg. cost of getting an a/c system serviced on our cars? Also does it sound like a bad compressor or can a giant leak just suddenly occur? I want to keep the car but I do not have thousands of dollars to fix an a/c system on a 10 year old car with 160,000 miles on it. Thx for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 23, 2006 Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 When that DTC is set, the compressor is disabled. You must clear the DTC before charging the system. Have the can hooked up and ready to go when you turn the A/C on to take the charge (after clearing the DTC). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcool217 Posted November 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 I cleared the codes right before chargin it. It took all of the R134A into the system. The compressor made clicking noises and cycled several times, but there was also a hissing noise like all of the freon I was adding was immediately escaping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 23, 2006 Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 Sounds like there is a massive leak somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted November 23, 2006 Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 Sounds like there is a massive leak somewhere. Yep, I'm surprised in that case, you weren't able to locate the leak source. I'd suggest using a fluorescent dye, but it sounds like you are beyond that; the leak should be readily apparent. Any chance you picked up a scattered rock on trajectory for your A/C? BTW, it's wrong to suggest you don't need A/C during the winter months. At the risk of telling you something you already know, your windshield defroster mostly won't cut it without the A/C to precipitate moisture. Regards, Warren There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted November 23, 2006 Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 The main failure mode for compressors with age is disintegration of the reed valves. That happened to me a few years back. I had all the symptoms that you describe, but I didn't try to recharge it before the compressor was checked -- and it failed. The compressor runs, but there isn't a corresponding pressure build-up on the output side because of the reed valve leakage -- which is probalby the hissing sound you hear. Thus the ACM sees that nothing is compressing, and it declares critically low Freon. I wouldn't run the A/C until I got it checked out. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkz71 Posted November 23, 2006 Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 With a leak that large you should be able to see a/c oil on whatever component is leaking. Start at the compressor and follow the lines to the condensor and the evaperator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsjoe Posted November 23, 2006 Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 Sounds like just a leak, mine was making a Loud grinding noise then I got the "Low Ref". Had the Compressor, Orifice tube and a couple of other things changed(flush o-rings evap.) ran about 900. Kinda on the high side but I know the shop. This happened at 211k and was the only time the AC was serviced so wasn't to upset, now on a 98degree day with high humidity at interstate speed I'm blowing 45 degree air out of the vents! Good Luck, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 23, 2006 Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 You have a large leak in the system - inspect all the lines and the condenser for the leak source. If you can't find it, add a small amount of R-134a and then look for the leak. I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that the compressor is bad. I would get this fixed as soon as possible so air does not contaminate the dessicant in the accumulator. Bad reed valves will not make any hissing noise or set the low refrigerant code. Once you have repaired the leak source, you will need to add a small amount of high viscosity PAG refrigerant oil to the system - the amount changes depending on what component is replaced. Post back your findings and we'll get your A/C back up and running. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch Me Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 As for the replacment cost of the compressor. The compressor can be found for as little as $159.00 and up on line. Check out who you buy from because in this case you do get what you pay for. I did find one place out of Az that had them for about $250. shipped with new gaskets / seals and pag oil. I've installed two of them with no problems at this point. One a year ago and one this summer on another car. If the person doing the work knows what they are doing it should not take more than 2 hours to change the compressor. But it would be a good idea to find out if the system has any charge left before you do anything. If you have no charge then as stated you need to find the leak. It may not be the compressor. Neither of the compressors that failed on me were leaking. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkz71 Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 I doubt there's any charge left with an audible leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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