Leaking Oil Pan

[MAC]

Today was my day to deal with my own oil pan leak.

I loosened all the bolts I could and used a couple of screwdrivers to carefully wedge open the seam about 1/8-inch on the passenger side end of the pan where the pulley is. I removed the oil filter. I then cleaned the seam with brake parts cleaner. Then with a latex surgical glove I applied Permatex’s the Right Stuff Gasket Maker on my fingers and forced it into the 1/8-inch opening. I also cleaned the bolts and applied Threadlocker Blue to the threads. I was able to get about two-thirds (2/3) of it done. The only place that I couldn’t reach was on the left side-end where the exhaust pipe is and also where the transaxle obstructs the ability to remove three pan bolts.

The pan cannot be completely removed. Again, there are three bolts (two 10mm & one 13mm? exhaust pipe/oil pan bolt) on the driver's side, which are recessed next to the transaxle pan. They are not easily accessible (if at all) since there is little room to secure a socket onto the bolts. A 3/8-inch socket extension is too thick to get between the transaxle pan and oil pan. If they were torx bolts then a torx driver (screw driver-like) would probably be thin enough to remove the bolts. Also, since the pan extends beyond the passenger side frame rail and beyond the exhaust pipe on the driver's side, even if all the bolts could be removed it appears that there is not enough maneuvering room to completely remove the pan.

[epricedright]

Do you think a 1/4" extension would have worked?

[MAC]

Do you think a 1/4" extension would have worked?

Is there a 1/4 extension that is thinner than a 3/8 extension? I know 1/4 is less than 3/8, however, is the actual extension 1/4 thick? I've always used 3/8 and 1/2 so I'm not that familiar with 1/4. If the extension were 1/4 thick then it might work. The 13mm pan/exhaust bolt would likely still be a problem because there doesn't appear to be enough room to fully secure a regular size socket. The socket would have to be short in height. I would imagine a socket could be hacksawed in half, which should leave a sufficient amount left to secure to the bolt.

[epricedright]

Do you think a 1/4" extension would have worked?

Is there a 1/4 extension that is thinner than a 3/8 extension? I know 1/4 is less than 3/8, however, is the actual extension 1/4 thick? I've always used 3/8 and 1/2 so I'm not that familiar with 1/4. If the extension were 1/4 thick then it might work. The 13mm pan/exhaust bolt would likely still be a problem because there doesn't appear to be enough room to fully secure a regular size socket. The socket would have to be short in height. I would imagine a socket could be hacksawed in half, which should leave a sufficient amount left to secure to the bolt.

Yes there is. I have a Snap-On 1/4" drive extension that is really long and skinny. I'd guess around 1/4" diameter, maybe a little less. I believe the shaft is skinnier that the 1/4" square drive on the end.

[MAC]

Here’s an update:

The sealer worked except there is still minor leaking where I was unable to apply sealer, namely on the left side where the exhaust pipe is and around the back of the pan where I was unable to loosen the bolts. Overall, well worth the effort. There is no longer a mushroom cloud rising from the engine compartment every time I stop at a light, and the smell of burning oil is almost gone. Even when I WOT the seal is holding.

Next weekend I’ll finish the job even if I’ll only be able to apply a bead of sealer around the outside of the seam—It should work. I’m also thinking that I might be able to apply a strip of thin aluminum sheet metal about a half inch wide around the pan and over the exterior bead to help maintain a seal.

I think this situation is well under control and for less than $20 and a few hours of careful assessment and labor it was well worth it. Also, it should eliminate the dripping oil problem which was a major pain.

[BodybyFisher]

Mac, it just took me about 30 min to find this thread. I just wanted you to see it, I am still not sure what I think of it.

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...o+much+silicone

Mike

[MAC]

Thanks Mike, I appreciate the heads-up.

The sealer I used is not only recommended for oil pan gaskets but is also recommended for GM vehicles. I did not use a bunch of it—and in fact I was cognizant of not using too much. But I will definitely keep an eye on it. When I torqued the pan some of the sealer (not a lot) was squeezed out to the outside, which is good. Hopefully I won’t run into any problems.

On the other hand, I’m not willing to spend $2000 on 214K engine to replace the pan gasket. If the sealer causes engine failure I will buy another Cadillac—Maybe a 94 or 95 STS—I like the older body styles. But I also like the Eldorado too.

[The Fred]

Thanks Mike, I appreciate the heads-up.

The sealer I used is not only recommended for oil pan gaskets but is also recommended for GM vehicles. I did not use a bunch of it—and in fact I was cognizant of not using too much. But I will definitely keep an eye on it. When I torqued the pan some of the sealer (not a lot) was squeezed out to the outside, which is good. Hopefully I won’t run into any problems.

On the other hand, I’m not willing to spend $2000 on 214K engine to replace the pan gasket. If the sealer causes engine failure I will buy another Cadillac—Maybe a 94 or 95 STS—I like the older body styles. But I also like the Eldorado too.

I would give you a good deal on my STS

It still needs the injectors and I don't have the money for them yet

Expenses expenses around here

[chazglenn3]

Mike;

As soon as I started reading this thread, the red light went off in my head. Mac, I'm glad to hear that you didn't get crazy with the sealer. The previous owner of my car was surely from the "more is better" school of thought.

Charles

[MAC]

Mike;

As soon as I started reading this thread, the red light went off in my head. Mac, I'm glad to hear that you didn't get crazy with the sealer. The previous owner of my car was surely from the "more is better" school of thought.

Charles

When I read the silicone clogging thread I said to myself that the individual must have bought a tube of silicone and went nuts with a caulk gun or maybe he used the wrong silicone.

I must admit that unless I actually saw it I would be skeptical that silicone could be drawn into a Northstar engine and clog oil passages. What kind of vacuum would cause silicone to be sucked into a Northstar?

If the person made the repair with the case-half apart and simply applied too much silicone then I could understand what happened. But if he applied silicone to the outside of the case-half I would be skeptical since the seam would be so minimal that it would appear unlikely that it could get by. Also, since the case-half is prone to leaking, it evidences the fact that there is no vacuum to speak of. The only other possibility is that the seam was large enough that he was able to force silicone into the engine—Perhaps he loosened the case-half bolts and the seam opened up?

Then again, perhaps he mistook a tube of silicon for an oil additive. Oops!

At any rate, that’s one unfortunate situation.

[chazglenn3]

The damage was actually caused by too much silicone used to seal the oil pan. The excess appeared to fall into the oil pan over time, and then clogged the oil pickup screen.

Charles

[MAC]

The damage was actually caused by too much silicone used to seal the oil pan. The excess appeared to fall into the oil pan over time, and then clogged the oil pickup screen.

Charles

Oh, OK. I see that on the second page. I read the thread at work today and already lost focus on what was the real problem.

[franey]

With reference to the impossible to loosen pan bolt , i have tried every known 1/4 inch drive adapter swivel and brand and i was never able to get it losened or tightened with these tools, however , a long thin open end wrech with a box on the other end will work, TAKE the open end and put the tips of the open end on two sides of the bolt, put screw driver through box end and turn accordingly, you can tighten it or take it out if you dare, i just tightened , I was afraid if i did get it out , would not be able to re thread it in the hole. IF YOU tighten only it will slow down pan leak on back somewhat, not a complete fix , but it helps.

[MAC]

With reference to the impossible to loosen pan bolt , i have tried every known 1/4 inch drive adapter swivel and brand and i was never able to get it losened or tightened with these tools, however , a long thin open end wrech with a box on the other end will work, TAKE the open end and put the tips of the open end on two sides of the bolt, put screw driver through box end and turn accordingly, you can tighten it or take it out if you dare, i just tightened , I was afraid if i did get it out , would not be able to re thread it in the hole. IF YOU tighten only it will slow down pan leak on back somewhat, not a complete fix , but it helps.

I suppose if those difficult to access bolts were removed it would be best to replace them with Torx bolts because a Torx driver is very thin and would probably fit between the oil pan and transaxle. It would be easy to re-thread with a Torx driver as well. Otherwise, to re-thread the original bolts I would try a strong magnetic bolt retriever which should be able to hold the bolt in place to at least re-thread it for tightening? Otherwise, use some epoxy and glue the bolt to a screwdriver and re-thread—After re-threading break the screwdriver off. Ideas—Will any of them work?

[BodybyFisher]

Mike;

As soon as I started reading this thread, the red light went off in my head. Mac, I'm glad to hear that you didn't get crazy with the sealer. The previous owner of my car was surely from the "more is better" school of thought.

Charles

That same light went off in my head Charles

What do they say, lessons learned are like bridges burned you only need but cross them but once!

Thanks