FlamingGoatBalls Posted August 19, 2006 Report Share Posted August 19, 2006 Does anyone happen to have a pic of the bolt(s) thats need to be removed to take the caliper and rotor off? Also does anyone know what size they are? I have a brake cube, are there any other thoughts\ concers I should consider while doing the job? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted August 19, 2006 Report Share Posted August 19, 2006 It's been awhile since I've done my rears, but I believe you'll need a 3/8" allen socket. I highly recommend replacing the rubber boots the slider bolts go in and be sure to use Silicone grease, and not Petroleum grease. Replace the slider bolts if they're corroded. Clean off the rubber on the calipers before turning in the piston, and make sure the rubber folds in nice and neat like an accordian. Don't forget to take the cap off your master cylinder when running in your caliper pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnydone Posted August 19, 2006 Report Share Posted August 19, 2006 auto zone has a tool u can rent fot calipers makes the job a lot easier than fighting with a cube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 19, 2006 Report Share Posted August 19, 2006 Remember, the rear brakes use only one bolt. That's the forward one. When that is removed you pivot the caliper upward on the rear pin. If you need to remove the caliper, then you slide it inboard on the rear pin til it comes off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlamingGoatBalls Posted August 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2006 Thanks for the help guys. If I only remove on pin though, is the caliper not going to hang up on the rotor? I thought that both bolts had to be removed to remove the caliper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 20, 2006 Report Share Posted August 20, 2006 The caliper will swing up and clear of the rotor to change pads. If the rotor is to be removed, then two more bolts must be removed to remove the mounting bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted August 20, 2006 Report Share Posted August 20, 2006 When you remove the caliper, be sure to hang it up with something to prevent undue stress and tension on your rubber brake line. I used a rubber bungy cord (tied in knots to size) to hold up my caliper. There's something about the parking brake cable...can't recall exactly what it is. Do you remember Larry? I've slept since then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 20, 2006 Report Share Posted August 20, 2006 Yeah, on the rears I believe the parking brake braket must be removed but that should become pretty apparent when he gets into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhall Posted August 21, 2006 Report Share Posted August 21, 2006 I think one item to watch out about is that some of the rear brake assemblies must have the brake piston screwed back into the bore (due to the parking brake design) rather than pressed with a C-clamp. Forgetting this little item on my '97 Deville drove me crazy until I reached for the FSM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted August 21, 2006 Report Share Posted August 21, 2006 I think one item to watch out about is that some of the rear brake assemblies must have the brake piston screwed back into the bore (due to the parking brake design) rather than pressed with a C-clamp. Forgetting this little item on my '97 Deville drove me crazy until I reached for the FSM. He mentioned he had a cube, so hopefully he knows about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gc_caddy Posted August 21, 2006 Report Share Posted August 21, 2006 The bolt takes a LOT of force/torque to remove. Years of rust and factory "locktite" makes it very tough. I had to heavily bang of my rachet with a rubber mallet to get it to give. (I almost gave up several times) Penetrating oil and access to an impact wrench would be helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlamingGoatBalls Posted August 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2006 Well that doesnt sound like much fun. Does anyone have a pic of this bracket? I am aware that the piston must be turned back into the caliper. Thats actually all I know about doing the rears. Should I open the bleeder screw or just push the fluid back into the system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stefank Posted August 21, 2006 Report Share Posted August 21, 2006 This is from the '92 manual but yours should be similar: - remove bolt (1) - remove bolt (19) to undo bracket (20) - swing out caliper Stefan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 21, 2006 Report Share Posted August 21, 2006 Well that doesnt sound like much fun. Does anyone have a pic of this bracket? I am aware that the piston must be turned back into the caliper. Thats actually all I know about doing the rears. Should I open the bleeder screw or just push the fluid back into the system? It will be much easier to turn the piston back in with the bleeder open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.