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ALLANTE A/C LINES


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HELP. I`VE HAD A STRING OF BAD LUCK ON MY ALLANTE. WASHED THE WINDSHIELD WHEN IT WAS TOO HOT AND THE GLASS CRACKED. THEN MY A/C LINE WAS TOO CLOSE TO THE BRAKE METERING BLOCK AND WORN THRU THE ALUMINUM PIPE. I HAVE A NEW LINE BUT BEING ABLE ACCESS THE BACK OF THE COMPRESSOR TO CHANGE OUT THE LINES LOOKS PRETTY DIFFICULT. I CAN BARELY SQUEEZE A FINGER IN TO REACH THE MOUNTING BOLT. TRYING TO GET A 5/8 WOBBLE SOCKET IS ONLY HALF SUCCESSFUL. ALL THE OIL COOLING LINES, PLUS THE FILTER AND HOUSING ARE PRETTY MUCH IN THE WAY. HAS ANYONE DONE THIS TYPE OF A PIA JOB BEFORE? HOW MUCH TROUBLE IS IT TO DROP THE COMPRESSOR? THANKS.

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I HAD TO REPLACE THE AC lines on my 87 allante i replaced the engine mount at the same time i remember it was a difficult job but could be done

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How did the A/C line get to close to the brake metering block? I also have a 93 Allante so maybe I should look at the A/C line before disaster strikes.

As I remember, the best price I could find for a windshield for this car was $350.

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The key to any job like that is to not be afraid to remove what is truly in the way.

As a teenager, I once installed an air conditioner on my car from junkyard parts plus a new collector and other critical parts. I got some space at the shop of a mechanic who had air conditioner equipment like a vacuum pump. I started about 9:00 AM one Saturday morning by removing the grille, then the radiator. The experienced mechanics said that I would be weeks getting the job done. By 9:30 I was pulling the damper wheel, comfortable on a stool in front of the car, with four feet of extension on a ratchet, with a wheel puller. By 1:00 PM that same day, I was done. The mechanics didn't speak to me for weeks. They usually took a day or two for a job like that.

You have a hint in that a motor support was out when johnnydone did the compressor on his Allante. In looking at a previous post on the engine subframe, I saw that it could be removed without removing the engine, another broad hint. Get a factory shop manual or a really good Chilton -- preferably both -- and take time to read the directions thoroughly before beginning. If there is a step that you don't understand how you will complete it, you're not ready.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I GOT THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED AT "SPEEDY AUTO GLASS" FOR $211.88 FOR THE GLASS AND THE INSTALLATION. GOT LUCKY. MY ALLANTE IS A `93 WITH THE NORTHSTAR AND THE A/C PUMP IS UP UNDER THE MOTOR. I HAVE FSMS FOR ALL MY CARS AND OF COURSE THEY DO NOT GO INTO DETAIL ON HOW TO EASILY REPLACE THE LINES. THE AIR INTAKE BLOCK ASSEMBLY HIDES THE LINE GOING UP TO THE CONDENSER. THATS WHY I NEVER SAW THE PROBLEM UNTIL THE OIL HIT THE FLOOR. CRAP! I WAS WONDERING IF WELDING THE ALUMINUM LINE WOULD WORK OR MAYBE EVEN PUTTING A UNION WITH FLARED ENDS WOULD WORK. I COULD UNDO THE LINE AT THE CONDENSER, DROP IT DOWN TO THE FLOOR TO HAVE IT WELDED OR SPLICED WITHA FLARED UNION.

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I would expect that a new A/C would be better and quite possibly less expensive than a repair from a machine shop that could weld or make custom A/C hoses and fittings. Also, it is just more work, albeit more work when the hose is out and on the bench. In any case, to have the unit pumped down and the Freon recycled, you are probably going to need an A/C shop.

The price for the windshield, installed, is good for a rain-sensing windshield. It probably cracked because of a ner-invisible chip from road debris (thrown tire spikes from opposing traffic on the freeway are a common cause of this). Just putting cold water on it in hot weather won't crack a windshield.

The problem with the FSM is that it has instructions like

Remove or Discconect ... Air Cleaner assembly. Refer to Air Cleaner Replacement in Engine Controls.
By the time you include all the "Refer to" things, a ten-step process can become a two-page process. But, put it together with Xerox copies and just do it.

I find that a good Clymer's or Chilton's shop manual to supplement the FSM is a good thing to have on hand before starting a big job because you get the perspective of the independent mechanic who doesn't have a wall full of GM special tools on hand. These manuals, like the FSM, are written for people who make a living with their time, hands, and intelligence, and appreciate safety and first-time, well-done repairs.

In the case of A/C work, the licensing and control of Freon will pretty much force you to an automotive A/C licenced mechanic sooner or later. I would establish a relatinship with one now and work out with him how to proceed.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I GOT THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED AT "SPEEDY AUTO GLASS" FOR $211.88 FOR THE GLASS AND THE INSTALLATION. GOT LUCKY. MY ALLANTE IS A `93 WITH THE NORTHSTAR AND THE A/C PUMP IS UP UNDER THE MOTOR. I HAVE FSMS FOR ALL MY CARS AND OF COURSE THEY DO NOT GO INTO DETAIL ON HOW TO EASILY REPLACE THE LINES. THE AIR INTAKE BLOCK ASSEMBLY HIDES THE LINE GOING UP TO THE CONDENSER. THATS WHY I NEVER SAW THE PROBLEM UNTIL THE OIL HIT THE FLOOR. CRAP! I WAS WONDERING IF WELDING THE ALUMINUM LINE WOULD WORK OR MAYBE EVEN PUTTING A UNION WITH FLARED ENDS WOULD WORK. I COULD UNDO THE LINE AT THE CONDENSER, DROP IT DOWN TO THE FLOOR TO HAVE IT WELDED OR SPLICED WITHA FLARED UNION.

I would remove the line and have the damaged area heiliarced - any welding shop will be able to do this for you for $15 or so. Splices and/or flared fittings just introduce additional leak points.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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