disciple3rd Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 My cadillac has made it from texas to washington on a rebuilt engine. I fixed my radiator, now the car is starting to back fire alittle, like it shift to the next speed. this happened before and my friend checked the fuses and replaced some and everything was ok. couldthis be the same issue or is the fuel line finaly needs to be changed. help me out if you can. also I think it could be the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 Pull the OBD I codes and post them here. That will give us something to work from. Click here for instructions on how to pull the codes. They will be in the form of a letter followed by three digits, as in E011. They will be preceeded by three letters that are not important. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 The 92 Deville has the 4.9 if I recall. Remove and check your distributor cap for cracking and carbon tracking, between the terminals. In the pitch dark, start your engine, lift your hood, spritz them lightly with a water spray bottle, raise your idle (stay clear of moving parts) to about 1500, look for sparking around the ignition wires, look at each plug for sparking down the porcelain. Check your rotor for excessive wear and check the distributor contacts for wear. How are the plugs? Correct plugs used? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 I'm with BBF. If the gap between the rotor and the distributor cap widens due to spark erosion, it will cause a backfire. If the cap & rotor are original, they are long overdue for replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 I am not sure I understand the original post; the engine is back firing when the transmission shifts to a new speed? Why do you think it could be the transmission? Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disciple3rd Posted August 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 I am not sure I understand the original post; the engine is back firing when the transmission shifts to a new speed? Why do you think it could be the transmission? I dont know why I'm new to fixing cars. but everyone is givin me goods ideas on how to fix it im going to look in it tommorow to see what is going on. All I know is when I let it rest it will do fine for about 30 minutes then after that back firing then I can go only 12 to 20 miles per hour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 What do you guys think about a bad coil? Will an ignition module cause this when it's heated up? I am also thinking this could be a bad PCM Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 Not sure Mike, but my guess would be a bad coil would cause a misfire. I'd check the cap & rotor first, then the plugs & wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 If he can drive it for 30 minutes and then it wacks out, this is beginning to sound like the 4.9 PCM problems we were seeing for awhile.... The next time you start your car, tap on the PCM, it is on the passenger side under the glove compartment, you may have to remove some panels. Tap on it when the car is running good to see if you can induce problems and tap on it when she is backfiring to see if you can make it run good. You might try to drop it down and put a pack of ice on it, to see if the problem goes away if it is cooled, dont get it wet.... from condensation.. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 Yeah, now that you mention it, worn cap contacts would show up immediatly, not after warm up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fred Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 Heat increases resistance in wires, I bet the wires are bad. I don't understand much of anything the OP says. MerryChristmas Be a Capitalist or work for one. Work for a Capitalist or be one. MerryChristmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 I agree with BBF and Ranger. You might check your battery connection for being too loose or corroded. I would check the fuel pressure regulator also. Did anyone ever establish whether we are talking about a backfire or a miss? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 We need to pull the codes. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disciple3rd Posted August 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2006 We need to pull the codes. I'll have the codes tommorow after work sorry about that. My job doesnt give me too much time to check my car out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disciple3rd Posted August 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2006 i have the codes now and this is what i have. It reprted thes codes I'm writing it how it was displayed. E.9.5 E.0.0 E.9.6 E.0.1 E.0.2 E.9.6 E.0.3 E.9.6 I looked at codes page but did not get what was going on. Is my torque converter overstressed or did I look at the wrong code Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted August 14, 2006 Report Share Posted August 14, 2006 E96 - Torque Converter Overstressed This code is usually set when the driver depresses the brake and the accelerator at the same time. This action could cause an unsafe condition or damage the vehicle. This comes right out of my 1992 Service Manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disciple3rd Posted August 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2006 So how do you fix the problem or do I have to take it to a shop. One more thing how much does it cost to fix. This problem is weird to me cuz when the temperature is not hot outside I can go back to 75 80 mph. so is it really stressed or is it a coil problem or electrical. Anyone out their help me out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 Do you ride your brake while your foot is on the gas? Are you a two-footed driver? Have you power braked your car? If you do any of these, it will cause the problem. It could be that one of your brake calipers is dragging or not letting loose. Have your brakes been checked lately? Clear the codes by unhooking the battery for about 5 minutes. Hook the battery back up then drive the car for a few miles or days, then recheck your codes and report back. As far as the backfiring or miss, have you checked the battery connection? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disciple3rd Posted August 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2006 Do you ride your brake while your foot is on the gas? Are you a two-footed driver? Have you power braked your car? If you do any of these, it will cause the problem. It could be that one of your brake calipers is dragging or not letting loose. Have your brakes been checked lately? Clear the codes by unhooking the battery for about 5 minutes. Hook the battery back up then drive the car for a few miles or days, then recheck your codes and report back. As far as the backfiring or miss, have you checked the battery connection? No im not a two foot driver, but i took it in for a diagnostic anyways. I think it just may be the distributor cap like everybody else said for the back firing. as for the code error im checxking on that today so i should have some result later. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted August 21, 2006 Report Share Posted August 21, 2006 What do you guys think about a bad coil? Will an ignition module cause this when it's heated up? I am also thinking this could be a bad PCM The both are legit. suggestions. The PCM is easier to check out by tapping with a screwdriver while it acts up. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonie77 Posted August 21, 2006 Report Share Posted August 21, 2006 Jelan, you have to back up and give some clear info. You said it was a rebuilt engine in the first post. Rebuilt by who? Installed by who? Was it tuned? When and what was done to tune it? Have you done anything to it since it started backfiring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick7997 Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 FWIW, Plugs, wires, rotor, cap.... Start with that. Once that is all replaced, check your codes again and move on to the other suggestions in this post.... but my guess is you won't have to... My rotor was a little worn (on my old one, 92 Eldorado, 4.9), and that gave me a host of interesting symptoms to ponder.... I did plugs, wires, rotor, cap, all at once, and everything went away. Upon examination, according to a guy at a parts department, the rotor & cap were shot.... the puzzling thing was, the symptoms were very intermittent. At times, it ran perfect. Other times, it wouldn't start, or if it started, wouldn't keep running.... Which to me, sounds a little like what you have... intermittent. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disciple3rd Posted August 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2006 FWIW, Plugs, wires, rotor, cap.... Start with that. Once that is all replaced, check your codes again and move on to the other suggestions in this post.... but my guess is you won't have to... My rotor was a little worn (on my old one, 92 Eldorado, 4.9), and that gave me a host of interesting symptoms to ponder.... I did plugs, wires, rotor, cap, all at once, and everything went away. Upon examination, according to a guy at a parts department, the rotor & cap were shot.... the puzzling thing was, the symptoms were very intermittent. At times, it ran perfect. Other times, it wouldn't start, or if it started, wouldn't keep running.... Which to me, sounds a little like what you have... intermittent. Good luck. I thank you for the suggestions. When I had the engine rebuilt I had it done by a independent shop in Texas. When I first drove it off it acted up. the engine had a tune up and they did not know what was wrong. So my friend who knows cadilliacs found that the [problem was the wiring. when they did the oil chang they got some wires caught in the oil filter. Then after that the car ran good. When I drove the car from texas to washington the battery cables got caught in the timing belt and ripped the battery cables. The people in Montana gave me a new timing belt and fixed the battery cables. Everything was good until I got to washington and the temperature was 97 degrees then the car could not idle. Ever since that day the car has run good. So i think its a bad coil. right know the car is in the shop getting the radiator cable redone withe a new pump. Im wondering will the idle problem come back , what should iI do. that is the histry of what the car has been threw. i take all suggestions and I use them. Any more I appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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