Marika Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 The cabin fans died AGAIN, on Saturday. I wonder if it's the same module I changed the last time? If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thu Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 Can you supply us with details of the history of this problem? 2003 Seville STS 43k miles with the Bose Sound, Navigation System, HID Headlamps, and MagneRide 1993 DeVille. Looks great inside and out! 298k miles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marika Posted August 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 Can you supply us with details of the history of this problem? Oh, I had this problem once before. There's a module that regulates the fan speeds for the cabin. That module is known to die and often in my year of car. I just have to buy ANOTHER one and install it. Takes about 15 minutes. Ohhhhhhhhh If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thu Posted August 7, 2006 Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 There might be a reason why the replacement died. Maybe there's a short someplace? 2003 Seville STS 43k miles with the Bose Sound, Navigation System, HID Headlamps, and MagneRide 1993 DeVille. Looks great inside and out! 298k miles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marika Posted August 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2006 There might be a reason why the replacement died. Maybe there's a short someplace? From a previous thread on this site, it seems it's a common problem. If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marika Posted November 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2006 OK, I finally got around to replacing the blower control module for the cabin fans. The fans are still dead. Checked all the fuses, they seem OK. Anyone have an idea as to why my cabin fans would not be running? If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted November 4, 2006 Report Share Posted November 4, 2006 Perhaps the blower motor is bad. To test, one would check the terminals of the blower motor when the blower should be commanded on to determine if it is receiving the appropriate voltage. If it is getting power but is not running, then replacement is in order. The blower motor is just ahead of the fire wall on the engine side near the bottom of the windshild area. It can be replaced (if *I* am not doing it) although to put the new one in it helps to roll the engine forward a bit as it is a tight fit. Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Hall Posted November 4, 2006 Report Share Posted November 4, 2006 My blower motor on my 88 Eldorado quit working so I removed it and lubed the bearing and 2 years later, it is still working great. Try lubing the bearings before spending money and replacing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted November 4, 2006 Report Share Posted November 4, 2006 If you need to replace your blower motor, here is a post I posted last year. This applies to the '94 Deville with the 4.9, hopefully it will apply to your '92 Seville as well: I just replaced my blower motor and learned something I thought I'd share. For a 1994 DeVille with the 4.9, there is NO need to tilt the motor forward by removing the dog bones and loosening the cradle bolts, or remove the valve cover, or insert the blower cage first and reattach it via inside under the dash, or shoe horn it in with a prybar, or mutilate your air box by cutting it and taping/gluing it back together, as some members have done and/or advised. After much research reading previous post, I figured one of the above methods was going to be the only way, so I was avoiding this job like the plaque. Unforunately, the FSM said in order to replace the blower, simply remove the motor, and replace with new motor with no further instructions. The new improved replacement motors with the heat shield are a little larger and do not come apart in three pieces facilitating removal and installation like the original blower motor, so replacement appears more troublesome than it really is. What I learned is there are three areas made of rubber on top, above the blower motor, where it says cut here (one area says cut here, the other two do not). Underneath that rubber, is a plastic plate that is removed w/ one screw. Remove that plate, and there is a cut out of the air box that is large enough to slip the new blower in place without having to move anything out of the way or go through any extremes. Unfortunately, I tried at first to gain access to where the blower wheel is via under the dash...impossible! I removed the ashtray (PITA btw unless you know there are 4 bolts and where they are), removed the carpet cover, and there is a support brace right in the way, that cannot be removed without first removing the dash, or atleast the lower half of the dash, if it does indeed come out in 2 pieces. Then looking past that brace, if you did manage to remove that brace, there is no way you're gonna get anywhere near that blower wheel with your hand or socket, atleast not in a '94 DeVille. So then I thought I'd try forcing it in with gentle persuassion...couldn't come close! That's when I stumbled on the cutout. I hope this information helps the next person in doing this job. I was dreading this job by reading all the post that said it was such the dreaded PITA task. For some other models and years (the N*'s), the procedure is different, and you may need to use one of the above routes, but this was the correct procedure for my car. Knowing what I know now, I would have done this job a long time ago, as it wasn't too bad at all. BTW, you do have to remove the cross brace (strut brace), reposition some rubber hoses and wiring harnesses, remove the pvc line that goes to the brake booster, remove the spark plug bracket that's in the way, and remove a connector that goes to a sensor. Be sure to put that plastic cover over the cut out on correctly...it is grooved and sort of slides in place. I also had to use longer screws to mount the motor, as the original ones were too short. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marika Posted November 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2006 OK. I had installed a new blower control module a while back thinking that was the problem and it turned out to not be the problem. Just finished installing a new blower motor in the car this morning. The heat is back on and it's working just fine. Thanks for your help everyone!! By the way, on the 4.9 litre SEVILLE (1992), the installation was a snap. Remove the cross bar that's attached to the top of the two struts, remove the screws on the old blower motor, pull out the motor and upwards to slip it out past the hoses, insert the new motor at the same angle you removed the old one at, put the screws back, hook up the one plug that runs the motor, reinstall the cross bar for the two struts, DONE. It was a 37 minute job and that included the fact that I was at the tail end of the car fighting with the lights, replacing two burnt out bulbs. If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Hall Posted November 18, 2006 Report Share Posted November 18, 2006 Glad to hear everything is working again. Like yours, mine was very easy to get to also. All I did was lube mine and it worked like a charm. I figured that since it was so easy to get to, it was worth the gamble in lubing it and trying it out. So far after a year, it is still working great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted November 18, 2006 Report Share Posted November 18, 2006 Good job Marika! That's one advantage we have over the N*'s I tried sliding mine in w/o cutting at the cut outs, no way. The old motor could have slid back in since it was in 2 pieces, but not the 1 piece replacement. Just curious, was your replacement motor 1 piece or 2? Did your car have the "Cut Here" marks above the motor on the blower housing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marika Posted November 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2006 Good job Marika! That's one advantage we have over the N*'s I tried sliding mine in w/o cutting at the cut outs, no way. The old motor could have slid back in since it was in 2 pieces, but not the 1 piece replacement. Just curious, was your replacement motor 1 piece or 2? Did your car have the "Cut Here" marks above the motor on the blower housing? No "cut here" or "cut there" marks anywhere. The motor is in the black housing and a nylon wheel fan is attached to it with a nut. The whole unit went easily into the firewall, no problem. Was so simple it shocked me. If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted November 18, 2006 Report Share Posted November 18, 2006 Good job Marika! That's one advantage we have over the N*'s I tried sliding mine in w/o cutting at the cut outs, no way. The old motor could have slid back in since it was in 2 pieces, but not the 1 piece replacement. Just curious, was your replacement motor 1 piece or 2? Did your car have the "Cut Here" marks above the motor on the blower housing? No "cut here" or "cut there" marks anywhere. The motor is in the black housing and a nylon wheel fan is attached to it with a nut. The whole unit went easily into the firewall, no problem. Was so simple it shocked me. Cool! My old motor came apart in 2 pieces, well 4 pieces if you include the inertia plate and fan blade. The new one was just the motor (couldn't be taken apart) and fan blade. Glad you decided to tackle it yourself. Good Job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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