rcool217 Posted July 23, 2006 Report Share Posted July 23, 2006 I need some help diagnosing a new problem. Yesterday I noticed that it seemd like when I touched my brake pedal the interior lights and inst. panel would dim or cut off for a second. It would not do it everytime though so it wasn't predictable. Then today I was driving about 30mph and the car just shut off , no sputtering or anything I didn't even know it was off until I tried to turn however I did notice the ABS and tract lights on. I pulled over and the car started right back up and ran fine. I just changed the Fuel pressure regulator. Could this be related? I am scared it might be the CPU or something very expensive. The car runs and drives fine otherwise. I hope someone will know what this is. This board has so many great and knowledgeable people on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted July 23, 2006 Report Share Posted July 23, 2006 FPR is highly unlikely from your discription. Any DTC's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 23, 2006 Report Share Posted July 23, 2006 First off to calm your nerves, if you ever needed a PCM (CPU) they are not expensive. They range from $100 to $175. If I were you, I would clean the battery cable ends. The positive cable at the battery has two wires connected together by a lead lug. Pull the red insulator off and clean the connectors and lug. You can use baking soda and water or battery terminal cleaner available at an auto parts supply. Make sure that you watch how the positive cable comes apart so you can reassemble it correctly. Watch where the washer goes. When you retighten the connection make sure that the bolt does not bottom in the battery connection before the cables are tight. Clean the negative connection also. If that does not solve your problem, have the battery checked out thoroughly Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcool217 Posted July 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2006 It tripped an PC1599 code due to the shutoff. My wife just tried driving it to taco bell and said the dash flashed 5 times and almost cut off each time. The battery was just replaced with a new one at Wal-Mart 3 months ago so it should be bad or corroded. I'm all confused on this one. If it is the CPU how hard is it to replace and can I do it myself. I'm not a mechanic but I can do plugs, brakes and most reasonably simple things. One more thing. When I originally replaced the FPR I accidentally left the little black washer in and installed the new one on top of it. I read the board here and thought I would check and see if I had made this mistake and I did. All of the stalling started today after removing the old washer. I hope this didn't mess it up driving with the 2 washers in the fuel rail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted July 23, 2006 Report Share Posted July 23, 2006 BBF directed you to the root cause of your problem. Clean/fix the battery cable/contacts and you will be fine. Forget the FPR for a while, it has nothing to do with clearly electrical problem (as Ranger indicated). The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 23, 2006 Report Share Posted July 23, 2006 LISTEN, its NOT the battery its possibly the CABLES......they need to be cleaned!!!! Start there so we can eliminate them. The NS is notorious for battery cable problems, the two positive cables under the insulator gets corroded.... Read what I wrote above. By the way for your own good and ours, could you please be more detailed in your SUBJECT line, ''another problem", does not really attract anyone to your thread. The members here have their areas of expertise, and a little hint in the SUBJECT line will usually bring members familiar with your problem to your thread quickly. Simply writing 'another problem' ONLY catches members who are curious. In addition, 'another problem' has a NEGATIVE connotation, something this board historically dislikes.... we are into helping members who need help but we have an aversion to negative malcontent posters, which you may not even be!!... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcool217 Posted July 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2006 I will check the cables today, thakns for the help. Also I am sorry for the title of my post I didn't think about it that way. I was just frustrated from the problems my car has experienced in the last week. It is a great car however and I wouldn't want to give the wrong impression. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 23, 2006 Report Share Posted July 23, 2006 I will check the cables today, thakns for the help. Also I am sorry for the title of my post I didn't think about it that way. I was just frustrated from the problems my car has experienced in the last week. It is a great car however and I wouldn't want to give the wrong impression. No "problem" Devil , keep in mind that you have a 96 that is 11 years old now that the 07's are out... Old cars, of which I have one, need constant work... We have said here that there is no free lunch, you either have a new car with a warranty and pay a payment or you have an old car without a warranty and you pay for repairs. I have practically rebuilt my 96.... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted July 24, 2006 Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 Recently, I posted about my tachometer and speedometer flipping around like something you would see in a Bermuda Triangle movie. I was also getting the I052 (Keep Alive Memory Error) trouble code and things were getting progressively worse as my Eldorado was stalling, including twice in a short period of time on the way home. The symtoms of the I052 was loss of data causing the dash to blink and reset the dash information, such as Range and average MPG. Also, when I stepped on the brake the headlights, interior lights, and dash lights would blink and the car wanted to stall. I thought the problems concerning the tach and speedometer were being caused by a malfunctioning Throttle Position Sensor, which I just cleaned and lubed. This assumption, however, turned out to be incorrect. Today, I pulled the red rubber insulators off both positive battery cables and clean the connectors and battery bolt/lug. This cleared the up the problems. At least, at this point, both the tachometer and speedometer are steady with no signs of the jitters and no signs of wanting to stall. If I’m wrong, I report back. 96northstardevil, it looks like your battery was fine, especially in light of the fact it was replaced only 3 months ago. I would go back to the mechanic and tell him the battery was fine and get a refund. First thing you should do is follow the advice given and remove the red insulators on the positive cables and clean off all acid buildup. Even if it doesn’t look bad, clean it anyway since all it takes is a thin layer of acid/corrosion to inhibit voltage. My cables were not that bad looking from the outside, however, no doubt corrosion was also under the wire insulation for a short distance. I sprayed PB Blaster penetrating catalyst, which dissolved the acid, and I wiped the cable with paper towels and sprayed a 50/50 mixture of Super Clean/water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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