epricedright Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 I received my new compressor today, and it won't turn. The pulley turns, but the clutch plate/shaft won't. Mike, did you have the same problem with yours? I recall somebody here having a similiar problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 That's normal until it's installed and the clutch gets power. You don't want it to turn, or to remove the plugs on the hose connections, until it is hooked up and pumped down, and you are ready to charge it. Installation requires that the system be pumped down and refilled with R-134a and PAG refrigerant oil. PAG oil must be kept away from the system while it is being put together because it will jam the fitting threads over time. The manual says to use the J 39500 (special tools labels it a J 38100- A/C Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling System for bleeding down, pumping down, and recharging the system. You may want to work with an A/C shop, or even let them do the compressor replacement for you. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 Its not a problem Epriced, if you were to really grab it you WOULD be able to turn it, its dry now. Your memory is good, here is my thread and I said the exact same thing, I could not move it UNTIL I put a pulley remover on the front, see thread bottom of page 1: http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...p;hl=compressor Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted July 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 That's normal until it's installed and the clutch gets power. You don't want it to turn, or to remove the plugs on the hose connections, until it is hooked up and pumped down, and you are ready to charge it. Installation requires that the system be pumped down and refilled with R-134a and PAG refrigerant oil. PAG oil must be kept away from the system while it is being put together because it will jam the fitting threads over time. The manual says to use the J 39500 (special tools labels it a J 38100- A/C Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling System for bleeding down, pumping down, and recharging the system. You may want to work with an A/C shop, or even let them do the compressor replacement for you. Jims_97_ETC, what you're saying is contradicting what Mike and Kevin have said to do. I was told to put the PAG 150 oil in the compressor before installing the compressor, and turn the compressor if needed to get all the oil in it. Then once installed, to have it evacuated and then charged. Kevin and Mike, could you chime in please and help clarify the correct procedure. I don't want to risk damaging this new $420.00 compressor. I was planning on revovering the old freon and installing the compressor on Monday, and then have it evacuted and charged hopefully on Tuesday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 I don't want to speak for Kevin or Mike but I think you are correct Epriced. Put the recommended amount of oil in it and turn it by hand to get the oil circulated, otherwise I believe you stand a chance of slugging the compressor with a slug of oil, somewhat akin to hydrolocking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 Make sure you remove the port plugs from the back of the compressor before turning the clutch. If you don't, it will make it difficult to turn the clutch. Add the oil per the guidelines in the service manual to the suction port and turn the compressor clutch. Once you have the compressor installed, turn the clutch a few revolutions in the normal dorection before evacuating and recharging the system. Lube the o-rings with 525 viscosity refrigerant oil (the type used for R-12) or Nylog, NOT PAG-150. I have never heard of PAG-150 oil "jamming" threads of the fittings - that sounds like another urban legend. Most fittings that are difficult to separate are the victim of galvanic corrosion. There is an easy way to separate such fittings - drill the flat of the female portion with a 7/32 step drill and spray penetrating oil into the hole. It will work it's way into the threads and they will then be able to be loosened/separated without damage. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted July 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 Kevin, the instructions that came with Sealing Washers (that came with the new AC Delco compressor), said "Sealing Washers do not have to be oiled prior to assembly". Are you recommending oiling them with Nylog? The instructions also referred to "Inserts". What are those? Here's what the instructions say: INSERTS: 1. Rigidly suport suction/discharge hose block and tap aluminum inserts into block until seated 2. Install sealing washers per above instructions ____________________________________________________________ The "washers" that came with the compressor are metal on the outside, and rubber on the inside...are those sealing washers or inserts? And o Rings? ____________________________________________________________ I just noticed the compressor/ block for my year car does not require inserts. That's why none were sent with it. It was on the back side of the instructions where all the "other languages" were, so I didn't notice it. So do you still recommend oiling these sealing washers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 I would not oil the sealing washers if the instructions state that it is not required. Any other fitting, I would oil the o-ring. The inserts the instructions are referring to are to make the compressor work with in many different applications. As you have found, they are not required. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted July 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 Thanks Everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted July 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 The AC is blowing ice cubes....finally! The Caddy with black leather seats without AC was killer! I took it to Schmidt Automotive this morning, originally to just have my tranny seviced; new fluid, pan gasket and filter ($125), and asked them if they could also recover my old refridgerant, and they said sure, and added they wouldn't charge me anything for that. Hmmm, that's cool I thought as I already had my AC guy that does my AC work for my business lined up to come to my house to charge up my 2 cars and also give my home AC a little boost. I then asked what they would charge to recharge it after I put the new compressor on, and they replied $99. So out of curiosity, I then asked, what they would charge to do all the work (recover old refridgerant, install MY new compressor, evacuate, re-charge) and they replied $175.00 I immediately replied...DEAL! All the shops I checked with before refused to recover and recharge my system unless I had them do all the work, and bought their compressor. Anyhow, that was the best $75 I ever spent, as I was dreading installing the compressor myself since I've been running around like crazy getting ready for this trip and was running out of time. So the final tally: New AC Delco compressor $425 delivered, $175 labor to install, evacuate and recharge. Total $600. Not bad I feel considering it's a new AC Delco compressor, and not reman or new chinese All Season junk. I'm hoping I've finally found a good place to take my cars for things I either can't do or dread doing myself. Schmidt is a very reputable shop here in Indy, and they have a huge facility, where they do a lot of everything, including engine rebuilds, and make a lot of racing pro stock/super stock motors. I had forgotten about them, as I thought they were too expensive, but turns out they charge $59 an hour. Maybe their prices seemed high to me when I last inquired, which was probably way back when I was broke. Anyhow, they seem very trustworthy, and you can't put a price tag on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 19, 2006 Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 You are chillin now...... in this heat that was the best decision you could have made! Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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