Jeff Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 Howdy again- Well, I gave up on getting my water pump off, and just decided to put it back together, take it somewhere and let somebody who's got some sense do it. BUT... The car has been sitting for about a month. I've told this story before, but when I went to start it, it just turned over (slowly) but did not fire up. I charged the battery and when I hit it the next time, POW! backfire blew the gasket off the "pressure release" door in the end of the intake manifold. Then it just kinda ca-chug, ca-chug, turned over slow and no fire again. I took off the power steering pump and replaced the gasket, hit the key and once more POW! same story. ca-chug- but this time it fired up and idled for about 5 seconds and died. ca-chug, ca-chug, turned over slow and no fire- Gasket is blown off the trap door again. SO- my question is: (I have been digging through every FPR and backfire post I can find) Does that sound like a fuel pressure regulator? Is it dumping gas into the manifold and causing the backfire? Why is my battery draining so quickly? The backfire is immediately when the starter hits. If it can do that, why will it barely turn over three seconds later? Bad battery? History: I had the fuel rail replaced about a year ago. Ever since that happened the car is very hard to start. BUT only when it has been sitting. EXCEPT for first thing in the morning. When it sits overnight, it starts perfectly. I drive it to work- stop for gas and kill it for just a few minutes, it starts perfectly. When I park it at work for 3 or 4 hours, then it won't hardly start at lunch time. So it's not really a matter of hot or cold it's time. EXCEPT for sitting overnight!! If it sits for 8 hours at work it's hard to start, but if it sits in the yard at home for 8 hours at night, it's fine!! ?? FURTHERMORE: When the fuel rail was replaced and it was hard to start, I checked the FPR. I noticed that there was no o-ring on the center "nipple" like the old one had. Is that the way it is supposed to be? I bought a kit for it and put an o-ring on it, but then it was too tight of a fit to get the retainer clip back on. Which led me to believe that there was not supposed to be an o-ring on the new FPR. ?? Can anyone help me with this?? Thanks again- Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 Is the FPR leaking through the vacuum nipple? If so, that is your problem. If not, perhaps leaky injector(s). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadiKing Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 Howdy again- Well, I gave up on getting my water pump off, and just decided to put it back together, take it somewhere and let somebody who's got some sense do it. BUT... The car has been sitting for about a month. I've told this story before, but when I went to start it, it just turned over (slowly) but did not fire up. I charged the battery and when I hit it the next time, POW! backfire blew the gasket off the "pressure release" door in the end of the intake manifold. Then it just kinda ca-chug, ca-chug, turned over slow and no fire again. I took off the power steering pump and replaced the gasket, hit the key and once more POW! same story. ca-chug- but this time it fired up and idled for about 5 seconds and died. ca-chug, ca-chug, turned over slow and no fire- Gasket is blown off the trap door again. SO- my question is: (I have been digging through every FPR and backfire post I can find) Does that sound like a fuel pressure regulator? Is it dumping gas into the manifold and causing the backfire? Why is my battery draining so quickly? The backfire is immediately when the starter hits. If it can do that, why will it barely turn over three seconds later? Bad battery? History: I had the fuel rail replaced about a year ago. Ever since that happened the car is very hard to start. BUT only when it has been sitting. EXCEPT for first thing in the morning. When it sits overnight, it starts perfectly. I drive it to work- stop for gas and kill it for just a few minutes, it starts perfectly. When I park it at work for 3 or 4 hours, then it won't hardly start at lunch time. So it's not really a matter of hot or cold it's time. EXCEPT for sitting overnight!! If it sits for 8 hours at work it's hard to start, but if it sits in the yard at home for 8 hours at night, it's fine!! ?? FURTHERMORE: When the fuel rail was replaced and it was hard to start, I checked the FPR. I noticed that there was no o-ring on the center "nipple" like the old one had. Is that the way it is supposed to be? I bought a kit for it and put an o-ring on it, but then it was too tight of a fit to get the retainer clip back on. Which led me to believe that there was not supposed to be an o-ring on the new FPR. ?? Can anyone help me with this?? Thanks again- Jeff Jeff, I just replaced my fuel regulator at $70, but that wasn't it. I ended up replacing the fuel sending unit ($500 +). My symptoms were: car starts, but not enough power to drive down the road... To determine regulator pressure.... Get Fuel pressure guage and hook it to the end of the fuel rail. you should have about 45# of pressure when you turn it on... I've had 12 to 20 # pressure....not good enough... from what i've read before, you may have fuel injector issues... when the injectors leak at engine shut down, they provide a rich environment when starting, consequently hard to start hot...foul plugs... you may want to look at how to to verify injectors are not leaking.. I think you lift the fuel rail and look for dripping fuel. Quote: FURTHERMORE: When the fuel rail was replaced and it was hard to start, I checked the FPR. I noticed that there was no o-ring on the center "nipple" like the old one had. Is that the way it is supposed to be? I bought a kit for it and put an o-ring on it, but then it was too tight of a fit to get the retainer clip back on. Which led me to believe that there was not supposed to be an o-ring on the new FPR. ?? When I replaced the FPR, I found the same problem, the new one would not fit! What I found was I had only half the FPR out of the fuel rail! The screen and O-Ring were still in the fuel rail... Check it out... Once I got the old screen and o-ring out, everything went together perfectly... good luck... jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Posted July 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 So the o-ring may have stayed in while the part it's supposed to be on was pulled out?? If I take the fuel rail bolts out, does the rail and injectors all pull up together? Is there anything else holding the injectors down besides the fuel rail? Believe it or not, when I had the old leaky plastic fuel rail, the car cranked perfectly, but fix the fuel rail and this is what I get?? As far as running- the car ran fine before it sat up for the water pump repair. It did however have a bit of a surge when sitting at idle. Sort of a here and there surge. It would bog down for a half second and then run up to about 1200 for a second and then go back to normal. You couldn't really predict it, just random... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 Once you remove the fuel rail hold downs, the rail and injectors should come out at a unit. Then turn the key on (but do not crank) to pressurize the system and look for a leaky injector. Each injector has a sealing "O" ring on it. A drop of engine oil will ease the reinstalation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Posted July 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 THANKS! See my new topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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