Jump to content
CaddyInfo Cadillac Forum

I Should Have Known Better!


Recommended Posts

So, the lifter noise on my '99 STS was gnawing at me, and I bought a can of Seafoam to put in the crankcase. Of course, this did wonders for quieting the lifter down, BUT I forgot to factor into the equation the OTHER undesirable effect of the treatment...the wholesale cleaning of the crankcase! Now, even thought the lifter has quieted down a bit, the case half has started leaking very heavily. The Seaform cleaned away all the deposits that was keeping the motor from leaking. The half case is leaking so bad that the entire bottom of the engine is covered and the oil is burning on the exhaust. I have had to start putting a drip pan under the car at night. The local dealer wants $2200 to reseal the case halves. I am thinking I will try to check the local yards for a motor instead. I also have the power steering return line leaking by the left front wheel, that I thought was tranny fluid. The previous owner must have put the wrong fluid in the power steering pump. My $6000 good deal is rapidly becoming a bad deal.

CHarles

Charles

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I would first try some oil additives to slow the leak. Powersteering return line is not a big deal to replace (it is the next in my list). It could be just a loose connection as well.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will try some additives to slow the leak perhaps. I also forgot to mention that the Seaform cleaned the valve guides and valve guides seals, too. I am getting some blue smoke on start-up and when driving downhill and decelerating (shift to 3rd). Sigh...

Charles

Charles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought it was the oil pan, but the dealer said it was the case halves when I had it in to diagnose the tranny leak that turned out to be the power steering return line. I would prefer that it was the oil pan, but I can't tell. The oil pan bolts have oil on them, and that is what made me think it was the pan. Perhaps more investigation is in order...

Charles

Charles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would definatly check the oil pan. The case half leak should only be about a drop or two, but an oil pan leak sounds more like what you have. If the dealer did not clean the engine then put dye into the oil and drive it around a while then check it with a black light then my bet would be on the oil pan. I have checked my oil pan bolts and found them loose. After tightening them the oil leak slowed alot. You can't get to all of them easily but mine tightened a half turn. I have lived with mine for 5 years. You can buy an aweful lot of oil for $2,200 even at todays prices. Leaking 1 qt./1000 miles X 12,000 miles per year = 12 qts. X $1.75/qt. = $21.00 per year. In my opinion that does not justify $2,200. It also keeps the under side of the car from rusting out. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I reads that the case half can be plugged externally by using a silicon sealant. Firswt clean the area with a solvent, dry, apply the sealant, and let it dry overnight. Search this sight, and you will read some success stories.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will try some additives to slow the leak perhaps. I also forgot to mention that the Seaform cleaned the valve guides and valve guides seals, too. I am getting some blue smoke on start-up and when driving downhill and decelerating (shift to 3rd). Sigh...

Charles

Don't get too excited just yet, how many miles on this engine? Isn't this the year that was also prone to having the oil filter mounting "O" rings loosen up and blow out? The oil burning on downshift could be the result of several things, stuck rings, the wrong viscosity oil, a change in driving style, a lot of things. Let's take it one step at a time.

If the car was "driven gently" for a long time, you might be able to stop the oil smoke in about a year of proper driving....at NO cost to you.

The Seafoam was probably not a great idea, but it got results quickly for sure!

If you have a good solid cooling system, the rest will probably be minor fixes.

Be sure to get that coolant changed first. HOWEVER, if you see overheating...cut and run.

Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Johnny...the cooling system does appear to be solid, with the exception of the coolant in the surge tank being "greenish". I plan to drain and fill the system sometime this week. The car was in Las Vegas before I owned it, so overheating would have shown up there for sure. I bought it and drove it from Vegas to Tacoma, WA non-stop and the needle never went past the halfway point. I also have an oil and filter change planned for tomorrow morning (I work the swing shift). Looking at the oil filter adapter there doesn't appear to be any oil leaking from that area.

Charles

Charles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...