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Found 6 results

  1. Hi All, I haven't been on the forums for a while - life has been busy, and the DTS has been running great (around 105k miles)! Until tonight. I pulled into the driveway after a 25 minute drive home (80°F ambient temperature), windows down (A/C off), I got the message "AC off due to high engine temp" or something similar. After I turned off the car, both rad fans continued to run for a couple minutes. After dinner, I went back outside and noticed coolant under the driver's side of the car (approximately below the water pump). I plugged in my OBDLink MX and turned on the ignition to check for codes - nothing showed, and coolant temp around 160 as reported by the OBD dongle. I turned on the car and verified that the pump belt was in tact and driving (it was), the temperatures quickly rose to 220 (fans on), and I shut off the car shortly after. I'd also cranked the heat in the car but the air didn't feel hot at all. Based on the location of the coolant dripping, I initially assumed the pump was bad, but when I searched for info on failed pumps, most posts talk about a broken belt. There appears to be coolant in the surge tank but I haven't opened it yet. Do you have any advice to help me troubleshoot this issue? Thanks,
  2. I bought this car last year, and havent had any problems until yesterday. I was going to lunch and felt a vibration i realized it was boiling from overheating, and heater is blowing cold air.
  3. I went to replace the water pump in my '96 deville only to find that the water pump was over tightened. There's only half a centimeter of space between the bit of steel and the housing. Is there any hope to remove it or am I gonna have to replace the whole pump housing?
  4. I have a leftover GATES (US/made in Mexico) Part Number K030245 Micro-V that is brand new, never used. Would gladly mail it to you for free if you PM your address to me. Looks like former part number may be 3PK625. This belt probably fits all years of Northstar production. I only have one, so first person gets it.
  5. I had difficulty getting the water pump out of my friends 98 Eldorado with my Lisle water pump tool. With a mirror I noticed that someone had tried to get it out before as the pump had deep scoring where the tool engages it. So instead of removing and replacing the pump they loaded the cooling system up with tablets but the cooling system continued to lose coolant through the water pump seal. This is the first time I have seen a NS water pump leak through the seal usually I see them leak at the pump body o-ring. This looks like a cheap water pump however, I replaced it with an AC Delco pump. Although Lisle makes good tools, their water pump tool is a flexible tool and I have always had difficulty with it bending and getting out of shape. It always seemed to be a miracle when I r&r'd a pump successfully. I gave up and told my friend I needed to buy a better tool. I lucked out and found a Snap On S6192A Water Pump tool on Ebay, from a mechanic who currently works on Corvettes, he previously owned a Seville. The same tool is on Snapon.com for $150 and I found it on Ebay for $25! Well the tool arrived quickly and it made R&Ring the water pump child's play, the stabilizer bracket keeps the tool in place so the tool does not slip. It is a ridged carbon steel tool with very sharp tangs on it. It does not bend and as a result keeps its shape and gives a more positive engagement and turning power. Used an 18" breaker bar to remove it and a torque wrench (set at 72 lb.ft.) to install it. With careful listening, he now needs a new tensioner, the tensioner pulley is very noisy. Terrific find.
  6. I have a 1996 Cadillac DeVille Concour Sedan with a 4.6 Liter 8 Cylinder Northstar Engine that has 74,389 miles on it. Recently, it started leaking coolant approximately under the front center of the car. I applied a product called BARS LEAKS RADIATOR HEAVY DUTY LEAKS additive and it worked for about two months. The problem arised again recently and I did the same thing but the results was unsuccessful. The tank had become half filled with these pellets and now the coolant is leaking at a much faster rate then before. I was wondering if there is a way to replace the leading tube on the bottom to keep the cost down or if I have to replace the entire system all together? I have low a/c compressor readings when I try to turn the fan on to keep it from overheating while I'm driving but that fails. The highest temperature ever recorded while driving is 258°. It still purrs like a cat without any engine noise but I noticed that more coolant LEAKS out when it's in idle. Can someone Please help me? I don't want to have to sell HER.
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