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Last week I ran into a problem with my right turn signal (2005 STS) not working. Before then, the signal would work intermittently, particularly after replacing front brakes. After replacing the bulb and checking the wires, still no turn signal. I Googled to try to find out what could be the problem and found out that the sockets on the '05 can fail due to thermal damage since the running lights were designed to stay one when headlights are off, which increases the duty cycle. The same problem can also occur with the '06. GM issued a bulletin about the sockets being a problem. When trying to figure it out, my last resort was to inspect the harness that is connected to the turn signal assembly. And sure enough, I discovered the problem. The connection was contaminated with dirt. The reason why the turn signal would act up after replacing the breaks is because I rattled the connection. I almost didn't check the connection because it looked to be tight and I figured chances are it's either a short or the socket. But, common sense prevailed (Actually, Thank You!, Lord Jesus), and at the last moment I decided to check it. Glad I did! -
Sometimes, when my foot is off the throttle and the engine revs get low (say under 1,000), the engine cuts out. The first time this happened it happened frequently over a couple of days then the problem disappeared for a month or so. Now it has returned and is more frequent. This occurs primarily as I come to a turning. Hence I'm using the brakes, foot off the throttle. If I can keep my foot on the throttle, I can sometimes avoid the engine cutting. But this is dodgy driving behaviour. The fault is however, intermmittent. It has occured once or twice when I've been cruising towards an exit ramp about to leave the motorway. Most of the time, it's at very low speed, on local roads, just before turning. If I sit in my driveway with the engine idling, the revs may fluctuate and the engine may cut out - but not always. Engineers I've spoken to have suggested the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is failing or that the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve may be sticking/broken. But nobody seems certain. The approach seems to be, "Could be X, let's replace that and see.", piece by piece. So far,I've spent over $800 trying to get this fixed, including needing to get the computer (ECM) replaced when an engineer tried to update it. With the replacement of the EGR quoted at over $400, I would really like a better sense of what is wrong. About 80 miles after replacing the computer, current dashboard displayed trouble codes are: PC1571, RS0038, PZ2042. Historic codes are myriad. Any help or advice you guys can give me will be gratefully received.
