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HI ALL NEW TO THE FORUM I am about to start on a rebuild of my Seville STS. The items to be done or redone are as follows. I have an extreme stress job all mental so build the next two cars is my physical release of stress. To start with I have a blown gasket and a collapsed lifter. My spouse continued to drive the car and cracked the transmission cooler in the radiator flooding the engine with trans fluid and the trans with coolant. So pretty much toast. I have previously upgraded the brakes with Stage III Power Stop rotors and pads works nice but after sitting they require resurfacing. I will be making a polisher to do this as in my home state service providers are afraid of recutting rotors especially when they are drilled. Back in the 1980s I worked for GM as a DCS tech and forensic specialist out of Corvette Action Center and PRO. We had severe issues in Florida with the early Lumina brake systems warping rotors and chattering I designed a KentMoore tool similar to the Jaguar inboard brake resurfacer it uses #m polishing pads rather than cutting bits to resurface the rotors on the car. Pretty simple device bolts to the brake caliper mounting flange and uses air motor right angle grinders with spirolock pads. I have a couple of body issues one is the drivers side back door welt is rusting through under the welt so I will document how to do a simple resign repair, not bondo but epoxy. The roof channels have leaked on the electric top since I bought the car new. I am removing the electric roof completely and replacing with a simple after market sun roof with lift out panel. I will be trimming the interior to fit with factory styling. Because of the roof leak I have several issues in the interior one is a pretty bad case of mildew. Having restored flood damaged cars in the past I intend to use a Ozone generator to bleach the whole interior for several days. The factory material will be placed with flocked marine canvas and composite leather cloth. I found a great manual shoe stitching machine on Amazon that does a great job at sewing leather. I converted a L91 Caprice police car to a G body Fleetwood interior a few years ago was my main driver for 8 years. The interior stuff is always fun because GM tried to provide common tooling for many of it's vehicles and most mountings are common across many car lines. Not really happy with the Dash on this model I will be building a custom gauge cluster and navigation center using standard desktop PC components and linux open source software. The seats are functional but need leather replacement and due to my illness my back has a tendency to tweek on hard turns so I will be setting a pair of racing buckets into the build. If people need seat parts I will have two working units available. Since the roof leak was mainly in the drivers side A pillar the electrical seems to have been damaged so not bothering to repair it I will be replacing the whole thing with a new custom harness. The suspension was upgrade a few years ago with all new urethane bushings and aftermarket shock absorbers with level ride maintained I will document that process for the build as I will be removing the factory magnaride completely and replacing with a simple arduino based controller. This model of seville squatted nicely when over 90MPH and the ride stiffened greatly the after market struts have air ride built in and are actually stiffer so I have in mind a air valve control that will squat the car and keep it stiff all the time. The engine carriage mounts have already been up graded to urethane and HDPE I will document the process of making the mounts it is actually pretty simple. I paid someone to replace the transmission when I became ill thinking that I would bounce back quicker than I have so I will be building the jack and stand system to drop the carrier without the over head lift. Once the front body work is removed from these chassis they easy to work on. Many struggle needlessly to avoid dropping the carrier. A couple of weld up scissor stands and a porta power will get the car 36 inches off the ground lifted from the body welts on the sides. The carrier comes out as you lift the body with a weld up dolly it takes about 2 hours to pull the whole assembly. The transmission is a simple bent version of a 4L80E same parts mostly with a heavy chain. The differential will be upgraded to a mini locker like the ones used in the 7 5/8 rear of any GM they cost about $250 it makes some noise when making sharp turns but for HotRod use it stops the crazy unpredictable torque steer when accelerating hard. The week point on these transmissions is the 3-4 apply band and housing the after market has case repair kits for the GMC K series trucks that work in this trans. Another company TCI makes an upgrade kit for sprags and drums clutches and all for the 4L80E that works in this trans. I have not seen a decent High Capacity oil pan for this so I may need to weld one up. The front pump is essentially the same as a 4L80E so I will pick up a stahl convertor once I figure my torque peek. My engine has suffered the dreaded over heat than code 300 sporadic miss for years WOT usually cleared it out but after the last run it has an audible noise that matches the miss. Compression is good so I think it is probably a collapsed hydraulic cam adjuster. If it is a core shift in the head I will be documenting how to weld the bore and rebore a new. I am also planning on putting a turbo on this build or maybe a M122 eaton I have to get and accurate pattern for the difference between the XLR heads and the STS heads if there is a difference maybe someone hear knows. I will look at machining the adapters if practical if not turbo it will be. I plan to redesign the exhaust manifolds for this car either way the rear one is basically a modified log manifold. So if I go turbo it will be a mandrel bent log style manifold with a scavenging front pie wedge triY setup. The block will be either timesert or I saw a guy who makes larger studs for these engines I will inspect once apart and determine what course to take. As I am going to boost the engine I plan to add piston bottom oil cooling to help prevent lean burn through. Used it on many of my previous builds using diesel engine main bearing squirter inserts it works nicely. As I am boosting and planning on running at Higher RPM I will be looking at methods to stabilize the lower block main caps I can machine steel 4-6 bolt caps or simply girdle the whole bottom of the block I have to look at the webbing in the casting to determine whats needed. The pistons are pretty good in these motors is the originals still look good I will lighten them up and plate the tops with nickel the skirts will be coated with Tungsten Disulfide as I have about 4 Kilos of the stuff in my one blasting cabinet. I may select some after market rods once I get some accurate dimensions for them PCE in Australia has a bunch of nice H-beam rods that I have modified for strange builds in the past. As for the electronics I will be using my own fuel management system I have a couple of threads on other forums covering the fuel systems I have built. My Goal is to produce about 750 crankshaft HP dropping the car down into the 12 second realm. With a mild street presence. To do so either the M122 or turbo intake manifold will change so I may lower the engine in the cradle or put a cowl on the hood. It will be a fun build I will keep lots of photos and probably some how to videos. I figure about twenty or so commercial products will come out of this build so it will get rid of my aggression and please the wife on Total cost involved. This is my 50th year of Heavy automotive engineering and actually still love building hotrods. Also this is my 17th Cadillac Hotrod starting out with a 472 powered 1972 Chevy Impala with a complete funeral car Caribou interior and trim transplant. Tubbed rear wheels before they became cool. My favorites are the 9 Cadillac Cameros for racing. The guys called the Cadillac motors boat anchors but they started out over 300Hp and with shipyard blowers hit 700-900 easily. Look forward to having some fun.

Hello folks I own a 1999 Cadillac Deville and I was told by my mechanic that I have a blown headgasket... We have tried using blue devil headgasket sealer which worked for about 1 day and then the overheating appeared again. I was quoted by my mechanic that the job to fix the engine would cost anywhere between 2500-5000 dollars depending on the severity of the damage. Coolant was replaced thermostat was replaced... unfortunately this did not fix the issue I rely on my Cadillac heavily for work and I need a inexpensive fix and fast one ASAP that will last me and not pillage my bank account so that I can continue working. if anyone has any advice on how and what I should do thanks...

Hi I am doing a total rebuild on my 1955 331 cui engine. During that work I saw, that there were some shims placed under the rocker arm assembly. They do not look like something original, and I wondered if they have to be installed again, when mounting the rocker arm assembly to the cylinder heads. What are they good for? I can only see, that they are making the distance between the valve lifter and the rocker arm longer? Could that longer distance cause problems with the valve lifters (they are all new by the way). If I remove these shims, could that result in a too short distance between the valve lifter and the rocker arm, and how do I check, that I have the correct distance? I hope my English writing is understandable, and that someone can tell me what to do. Looking forward to some assistance. Best regards Per Kanne Denmark

I'm trying to swap a ld8 from a 2000 Eldorado esc into my 2002 etc with a l37. I've been looking around forums and have been seeing mixed answers. If I swap the ld8 into my ETC will I experience any issues with the computer acting up? I've been seeing that the drive ratio is different and the computer would have to be calibrated for the ld8? How would I go about doing that?

So I got a oil change on Friday then Saturday night drove my 98 DeVille you know just cruising. Sunday morning I hit the junkyard came home and got in my caddy and I was letting it warm up and it shut off by itself. Weird, now at this point I already knew my EOP SENSOR was bad but it's been bad for a while. It started making like a shutter noise from back of block almost where the spark plugs is but I hear it clearer from bottom of my block. More like a rattling some where in between. It wants to stall when I drove it to my mechanic. Any ideas in new on here. Thanks I'll try my best to answer some questions. That I know of my crankshaft positions were okay I did have them changed but it seems like they worked for a while then I would get the same codes for them. They are notorious for going out on these models.

Hi - it has been a while. I have had very little time to think about car stuff lately - even Cadillac stuff. I got married, defended my PhD, got a job, bought a house (I finally have a garage ), and very recently became a father. I still have the '97 DeVille, but it is now in need of some major renovations. There is oil going into the coolant (luckily not the other way around), misfiring, increased fuel consumption, high carbon monoxide levels in the exhaust, coolant consumption and so on. I am guessing a blown head gasket - certainly not something "less bad" - either way the engine will have to come out of the car and be swapped or completely remanufactured. The car has 200000 miles on the odometer and the transaxle has shown some signs of aging, namely sporadically dropping and rising engine RPM:s when coasting in 3:rd gear (as if the transmission slipped, although only when coasting). Given the mileage and cost of R&R:ing the powertrain, I would change or have the transmission remanufactured as well if I did the engine, even if it was not showing any signs of strange behavior. At the moment, the car sits in my garage and I have not actively started planning for repairs. Although it would be way more complicated than anything I have ever done on the car before, I would still have liked to do the work myself, but there is simply no way I can see that happening in the foreseeable future since I will not have the time. I do not want a ten-year dismounted car project... Given that I live in Sweden, my options for remanufactured Northstar engines and transmissions are far more limited than for those of you that live in North America. I still do not know exactly what options are available. At least there is a shop that works on these cars in my area that I have used over the years for other things. Any thoughts, recommendations or ideas? /Jonas

I just brought a '97 D'elegance yesterday for $1,000 in Maryland. It overheats almost immediately. Every time I drive it the temperature shoots up pretty fast around 244F in about 5-10 minutes or so. What did I get myself into? I think I got got. Oh well. What are some fixes? I dumped $135, for a battery, $240 for MDTags, $10 for tool kit to put in battery and tags, $ 368 for 1st and last months insurance. As well as the $1,000 for the car. I'm felling stubborn. I want to make it work. I refuse to just have wasted almost $2,000 in less than 24hrs!

One day I went to start my car and it just wouldn't turn on, and the battery light was on and it sounded like a dead battery so i got a new one since it was almost time anyways. Shortly after doing so the same thing kept happening so i thought it was fuel injector or some type of problem with the fuses so I took it to the dealership and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. This problem however doesn't happen every time i start the car, in cold weather it happened a lot so i assumed the engine just needed to get warmed up so i would start it in neutral with the e brake on so i could rev the engine and get it going. things seemed to be getting better as the weather got warmer but it still happens every once in a while but usually starts after a few tries. The engine only has about 70,000 miles on it, and today when I went to start it the same thing had happened however unlike before as the "service engine system" would pop on and off randomly, the message "service charging system" popped up and followed by "battery not charging". This is the first time this message has popped up and I'm hoping it will help me solve the problem. does anyone have any idea of what it might be? Thanks in advance!