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HI ALL NEW TO THE FORUM I am about to start on a rebuild of my Seville STS. The items to be done or redone are as follows. I have an extreme stress job all mental so build the next two cars is my physical release of stress. To start with I have a blown gasket and a collapsed lifter. My spouse continued to drive the car and cracked the transmission cooler in the radiator flooding the engine with trans fluid and the trans with coolant. So pretty much toast. I have previously upgraded the brakes with Stage III Power Stop rotors and pads works nice but after sitting they require resurfacing. I will be making a polisher to do this as in my home state service providers are afraid of recutting rotors especially when they are drilled. Back in the 1980s I worked for GM as a DCS tech and forensic specialist out of Corvette Action Center and PRO. We had severe issues in Florida with the early Lumina brake systems warping rotors and chattering I designed a KentMoore tool similar to the Jaguar inboard brake resurfacer it uses #m polishing pads rather than cutting bits to resurface the rotors on the car. Pretty simple device bolts to the brake caliper mounting flange and uses air motor right angle grinders with spirolock pads. I have a couple of body issues one is the drivers side back door welt is rusting through under the welt so I will document how to do a simple resign repair, not bondo but epoxy. The roof channels have leaked on the electric top since I bought the car new. I am removing the electric roof completely and replacing with a simple after market sun roof with lift out panel. I will be trimming the interior to fit with factory styling. Because of the roof leak I have several issues in the interior one is a pretty bad case of mildew. Having restored flood damaged cars in the past I intend to use a Ozone generator to bleach the whole interior for several days. The factory material will be placed with flocked marine canvas and composite leather cloth. I found a great manual shoe stitching machine on Amazon that does a great job at sewing leather. I converted a L91 Caprice police car to a G body Fleetwood interior a few years ago was my main driver for 8 years. The interior stuff is always fun because GM tried to provide common tooling for many of it's vehicles and most mountings are common across many car lines. Not really happy with the Dash on this model I will be building a custom gauge cluster and navigation center using standard desktop PC components and linux open source software. The seats are functional but need leather replacement and due to my illness my back has a tendency to tweek on hard turns so I will be setting a pair of racing buckets into the build. If people need seat parts I will have two working units available. Since the roof leak was mainly in the drivers side A pillar the electrical seems to have been damaged so not bothering to repair it I will be replacing the whole thing with a new custom harness. The suspension was upgrade a few years ago with all new urethane bushings and aftermarket shock absorbers with level ride maintained I will document that process for the build as I will be removing the factory magnaride completely and replacing with a simple arduino based controller. This model of seville squatted nicely when over 90MPH and the ride stiffened greatly the after market struts have air ride built in and are actually stiffer so I have in mind a air valve control that will squat the car and keep it stiff all the time. The engine carriage mounts have already been up graded to urethane and HDPE I will document the process of making the mounts it is actually pretty simple. I paid someone to replace the transmission when I became ill thinking that I would bounce back quicker than I have so I will be building the jack and stand system to drop the carrier without the over head lift. Once the front body work is removed from these chassis they easy to work on. Many struggle needlessly to avoid dropping the carrier. A couple of weld up scissor stands and a porta power will get the car 36 inches off the ground lifted from the body welts on the sides. The carrier comes out as you lift the body with a weld up dolly it takes about 2 hours to pull the whole assembly. The transmission is a simple bent version of a 4L80E same parts mostly with a heavy chain. The differential will be upgraded to a mini locker like the ones used in the 7 5/8 rear of any GM they cost about $250 it makes some noise when making sharp turns but for HotRod use it stops the crazy unpredictable torque steer when accelerating hard. The week point on these transmissions is the 3-4 apply band and housing the after market has case repair kits for the GMC K series trucks that work in this trans. Another company TCI makes an upgrade kit for sprags and drums clutches and all for the 4L80E that works in this trans. I have not seen a decent High Capacity oil pan for this so I may need to weld one up. The front pump is essentially the same as a 4L80E so I will pick up a stahl convertor once I figure my torque peek. My engine has suffered the dreaded over heat than code 300 sporadic miss for years WOT usually cleared it out but after the last run it has an audible noise that matches the miss. Compression is good so I think it is probably a collapsed hydraulic cam adjuster. If it is a core shift in the head I will be documenting how to weld the bore and rebore a new. I am also planning on putting a turbo on this build or maybe a M122 eaton I have to get and accurate pattern for the difference between the XLR heads and the STS heads if there is a difference maybe someone hear knows. I will look at machining the adapters if practical if not turbo it will be. I plan to redesign the exhaust manifolds for this car either way the rear one is basically a modified log manifold. So if I go turbo it will be a mandrel bent log style manifold with a scavenging front pie wedge triY setup. The block will be either timesert or I saw a guy who makes larger studs for these engines I will inspect once apart and determine what course to take. As I am going to boost the engine I plan to add piston bottom oil cooling to help prevent lean burn through. Used it on many of my previous builds using diesel engine main bearing squirter inserts it works nicely. As I am boosting and planning on running at Higher RPM I will be looking at methods to stabilize the lower block main caps I can machine steel 4-6 bolt caps or simply girdle the whole bottom of the block I have to look at the webbing in the casting to determine whats needed. The pistons are pretty good in these motors is the originals still look good I will lighten them up and plate the tops with nickel the skirts will be coated with Tungsten Disulfide as I have about 4 Kilos of the stuff in my one blasting cabinet. I may select some after market rods once I get some accurate dimensions for them PCE in Australia has a bunch of nice H-beam rods that I have modified for strange builds in the past. As for the electronics I will be using my own fuel management system I have a couple of threads on other forums covering the fuel systems I have built. My Goal is to produce about 750 crankshaft HP dropping the car down into the 12 second realm. With a mild street presence. To do so either the M122 or turbo intake manifold will change so I may lower the engine in the cradle or put a cowl on the hood. It will be a fun build I will keep lots of photos and probably some how to videos. I figure about twenty or so commercial products will come out of this build so it will get rid of my aggression and please the wife on Total cost involved. This is my 50th year of Heavy automotive engineering and actually still love building hotrods. Also this is my 17th Cadillac Hotrod starting out with a 472 powered 1972 Chevy Impala with a complete funeral car Caribou interior and trim transplant. Tubbed rear wheels before they became cool. My favorites are the 9 Cadillac Cameros for racing. The guys called the Cadillac motors boat anchors but they started out over 300Hp and with shipyard blowers hit 700-900 easily. Look forward to having some fun.

Hey everyone, I have a 1980 Coupe deville d’elegance. My sunroof stopped working the other day and it’s about 1/4 way open and won’t budge. It doesn’t sound like it’s a fuse issue with the motor because you can hear it wanting to work. When I hit the switch the motor sounds like it wants to do something but it just does not want to go.. does anyone have any experience with this problem at all? And if you could please provide me with any advice or trouble shooting ideas that would be awesome. Do I have to take the headliner out in order to get the motor out if need be? Hope to hear back from someone soon. Thanks again for your time. cheers

Hello I have a base 97 deville and simply need to know what each of the relays in the trunk control I have one small relay center behind the passenger rear seat and bother larger on the back of the drier rear seat ?

So I've got two problems, mainly. I have a 1993 Sixty Special. There is a draw on the battery when the car is not running. I had the Alternater and battery tested (It is only a year old) and both are fine. I have been disconnecting the battery when not driving, and it has not died so far. The car will need a boost if I do not drive it or run the engine every 12-24 hours. This seems to be getting worse, which would indicate my battery is taking a beating for all the boosts I've given it. So, here's what I've done. I pulled the fuse for Air Suspension, suspecting it was draining my battery due to a leak in the line somewhere, and running more than it should. This did not fix my problem I pulled the fuse for the door lock relays, and the two front seat adjusters. I considered this feature kind of optional, and was willing to see if that system had a power draw. It did not fix the problem. Connected a volt meter to the positive cable and positive terminal to get the meter to read that I had a draw of 12.3 volts or so. Started pulling all fuses to see if that would go away, it did not. Suspecting I did something wrong, I did the same with the negative cable and negative post to much the same effect, the draw of around 12.3 volts remained the same. Did I test the battery draw wrong? I also noticed my security light blinks when opening 3 of my 4 doors. The passenger door it does not blink. I find this odd, and suspect it could be part of my problem. Now, having said all that, yesterday my Radio will not turn on any more. I pulled out my iPod dock from the front seat cigerette lighter, and it left behind a little conductive piece of metal. When I tried fishing it out, it sparked all over the place at me. When I finally got it out, my radio would not turn on. The car beeps at me funny when I open the doors with the keys in it, and the security light doesn't come on when I open the doors now. I tried swapping the radio fuse (#4 I believe, 10Amp) with the spare #2 10 Amp, and nothing has changed. It seemed to me that when the radio didn't come on I just blew a fuse. Any help is appreciated guys. I plan on taking the car into a mechanic as I know one I trust, and I just want to know the source of the problems before I bring it into him to fix it.

I have a 2003 cadillac deville dts battery not charging came on display drove car for 3 days thinking it would correct itself, Dash light come and go randomly, PCM? Car finally died 3 days later after dash lights started dancing and dash went black/dead. Took car to autozone they said it was a bad battery i knew it was the alternator bought a new battery and an alternator from o'rileys. Changed alternator car is running good. Heres the thing drl's not on/working when they used to automatically come on any other time. Anytime i turn my lights, turn signals or ac on car stalls and dies. Brake lights function normally. only issue is when i try those 3 features the car dies. So i cant drive at night only daytime. I have not made any changes that require power to the car. Only mods i have done are replace door speaker(not component) and ran the blown rear DVC sub lines to 2 SVC 10' pyle subs. No after market deck or amp. ANy help is appreciated. There have been no major issues with the car and it has 135k on it I recently did a round trip to new orleans. Ryan

Hi all, I'm hoping someone can assist me with an issue I'm having with a 1999 Cadillac sls. First off, when the car is not driven for a few days it is stone dead. Will not start. No lights, nothing. I replaced two alternators and the battery. Issue still keeps happening. Now when I have the car running the security light and battery light stays on. I took off the rear seat to check the fuse box and there is a light blue wire and a black and white wire cut. there are so many wires i dont know what these go to. when i put the wires together with the power probe battery light stays on, and security light comes off. when i put the power probe to the black wire with no power or ground the battery light comes off. I am so stumped. I spoke to customer service and the guy ran the vin, said there "may" be a recall and a bulletin on the vehiclel but was unable to tell me what it was all about. When i call the dealership they say nothing comes up, but it "may" be an inline jumper harness short? I never even heard of this. Im at an impass. I hope somebody can shed some light on this. Thank you!

Hey everyone, I'm rolling my introduction into that of this project: "Soldiers Shield" I'm a former Army Infanrtyman, living in Ohio while pursuing my Bachelor's in Electronic and Computer Engineering. This project however, is not a vanity title. This 1998 DeVille belonged to my youngest brother (I am the oldest of four), we found it in many parts in his garage after we lost him in the Helmund district. It has been flooded three times, shot, and deer wrecked, but I have plans for it. I have been working on a Micro-ATX Intel I5 install with touch in the armrest and in the void of the radio. I have begun experiments with interfacing the 1870 bus to the PC for replacement of the missing IRC module. Eventually, this will provide long term, time tagged error reporting and some runtime adjustments. Plus, having 5.1 surround in my car is nice- provided through 5 channel 2500 watt(surrounds) and 600 watt(subs) amplifiers. Eventually, I would like to look at electrochromatic tinting and supercharging... But for now, I suppose I have to focus on the pesky "keep it running" issue. I am a decently intelligent person, however, the N* is a ball of impracticality rolled through a pile of convolution crapped out by some whacked out engineers. After dealing with the disassembly of my intake to change my started solenoid, tracing my malfunctioning wipers to corrosion in the trunk, and a whole host of issues to a surprisingly not a fire in my passenger vanity that failed to blow a fuse somehow... I can only come to the conclusion that those GM engineers were high one day, and said, "you know what would be funny? Let's put an engine in sideways and watch the techs react!"... But it is one tough SOB. I'll post here as issues are tackled and would appreciate any shortcuts over self-discovery. For example- this week's research: What input, beside Engine coolant Temp sensor does the PCM use to trigger the coolant fans?! I am sick of running the air conditioner (which assumes the fan motors, relays and wiring are all good). Thanks in advance! J. Campbell

Have a 2000 deville that the right rear window will not work. The window motor is good and the module is good, however, there is low voltage ( 7.5 vs 11.7 to other side) going to the window motor using either the master switch or the right rear door switch. What is the problem? Thanks for the advice.

Hi all. First off Happy Easter to all. I have a 2000 Catera and it has my head spinning right now, See title. To start. Sometimes the car will not start, you turn the key on and it turns off like you shut the key off. I figured this out. There is a fuse block on top of the battery, all 4 fuses were corroded and losing connection. I have to get 4 new fuses but for now I cleaned all connections and the fuses are all supplying full voltage now. The Speedo, odometer are not working at all. There were 3 codes related to VSS circuit So I replaced the VSS and inspected the VSS plug. Now the codes are gone but the speedo and odometer are still not working. The ABS, TCS lights are both on, not sure if it is related to above The radio, trunk release, on star, fuel door, traction button all do not work at all. The radio doesnt even display anything, and the trunk is useless because there is no keyhole. I checked all fuses, at least I think I did, I took care of the ones in the block at the battery, and there is no blown fuses in the box next to the battery. I found another fusebox below the steering wheel and all were good except one 30 amp heated seat fuse. I replaced the fuse and it did not pop. I was told that when it dries out that things start to work again. She said that when the radio works, the on star, trunk, fuel door, and traction all works. But when it rains or gets wet everything quits working. Today I spent almost 5 hours on the car and found out that the rear carpets are soaked. I removed the drain plugs at the rear floors and let it drain. I pulled all the sill trims and the rear seat. I found 2 things that make me worry. 1. at the right front kick panel there is a module and there are several wires tapped into the wires to the module. I dont know if this is for the on star or what but All connections were intact. 2. There is a harness under the rear seat. 5 wires maybe that look to have gotten hot. Dont look damaged but there is a groove in the matting on the floor and it is all black like the harness melted the groove. I dont expect any miracles here but am just looking for a step in the right direction. I also worry about a fire hazard when there are so many electrical problems, and water may be involved. I only have 1 code now that my scantool shows, constant, as soon as you clear it it comes right back, U2108, unsure of the definition. Thanks all for reading

Greetings, I had the following work done at my regular mechanic. Rear shocks replaced, front pass wheel bearing, and new front brake pads. When I got the car back, the passenger window and drivers side window now opperate together and the passenger window button dosen't work. Also the PS door lock button is inopperative and the PS mirror doesn't move. All these things were fine when i took the car in. The mechanic said he didn't do anything out of the oridinary with the electrical system and I tend to believe him. Anyway, does anyone have any theories as to what might have happened to my poor Caddy. These items aren't critical, just annoying. And one other item, on his scanner he showed a B1007 EEPROM write error. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi all. Before I go replacing parts I figured I would get some insight. I dont know too much on the Catera. Multiple issues seperated. Hope this helps. First Sometimes when you start the car the ABS, Traction, And Check engine light come on. The speedometer does not work, nor does the traction or ABS. Codes that relate are P0500. VSS circuit A. circuit performance P1700. MIL requested by TCM. Traction control module or trans control module? U2108. I dont know this one. Sometimes the lights dont come on and all seems to function as designed but when the lights come on above follows. Second. Driving down the road the radio shorts out for some reason. You can hear like an electrical short noise and the radio and trunk release will not function, then they come back on eventually and continue to function. Very weird. This does not seem to be anywhere related to the first problem. Any insight is highly appreciated