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Hello Caddy Enthusiats!!!! I would like to keep things short and simple. My question today is what part(s) should be replaced based on the DTC codes that are pulled from my car? I have a 95 DeVille Concours. The codes are as follows: P035 P036 P039 P040 S010 S011 S012 S015 S016 S017 S021 S022 S025 S027 S030 S031 S035 S037 S044 S051 S060 S061 Any input would be greatly appreciated and I would like to thank everybody in advance for their suggestions. Thanx!!!
Hello all. My 96 Deville throws the RS0038 code. for the rear ELC. I cannot find the description for the code at this time but I know it has something to do with the compressor. I have run into this cde many times before on other Cadillacs and usually the ELC fuse in the trunk pops and the compressor does not operate. But this one is not happening like that. here is what I have for info. Car rides fine No other codes present Have never gotten a service ride control message Air compressor works fine and exhausts fine rear suspension does not change when vehicle sits for extended period of time. Not quite sure why this code is occuring as suspension seems to be working properly. Only one time I had about 700 lbs in back seat and rear suspension rode low. definately lower than normal. I use the spokes of my rims as reference of ride height. Normal ride height I can see the holes in the spokes at the top of the rims at the wheelwell. Which is all the time. On the ride where it rode low the rear end all you could see was half of the center cap. Yes thats very low. but still rode great. and got decent mileage. I would appreciate any insight on this topic. I plan to purchase a spare compressor to rebuild and install someday. But at this time I am not too worried about the problem. the code has been coming up for awhile and the only reason why I know its there is because I run the codes once in awhile and it is the only code. Whatever is causing this code only seems to be affected by heavy load in the rear end. other than that it rides perfectly normal. thanks all
How do you open the dryer box that sits on top of the electronic leveling compressor? I am going to fix my leveling (see this thread: http://caddyinfo.ipb...44) and as a part of that, I want to have a dryer box with freshly dried desiccant (chemical that absorbs moisture from the air) to prevent further corrosion inside the compressor. I would like to avoid damaging the dryer box, and it would be easier if I new if I should screw off or pry off the lid. Anyone that has done this and would like to share their experiences? Another question: does anyone now what kind of desiccant is used in those dryer boxes (reactivation drying temperature and time depends on the chemical used)? (edit: the question is for a -97 DeVille)
My electronic leveling system does not lower the rear-end of the car ('97 DeVille). Obviously, nothing leaks, since the rear-end is riding too high, not too low. It is not related to the height sensor, because the car does not try to increase the height more than it should if I let out the air manually by pulling the air lines and then let it re-level. The rear-end goes up slightly with each ignition cycle, since the system briefly cycles both the exhaust valve and compressor each time the car is started. This has happened once before, and that time I replaced the compressor (I got a faulty re-manufactured one, and then they sent me a new one on warranty). The re-manufactured one was bought because my original one quit (both it and the rear air springs were leaking at the time, two years ago). As a result, I now have two working compressors with frozen exhaust valves or broken exhaust valve solenoids, and one compressor that does not run. The exhaust valve and solenoid might have worked on that one when it was removed, but of course there is the chance that it was frozen, since that would not have made any different when the whole system was leaking. I also have three air dryers (that sits on the compressors). My question is: does anyone have experience with fixing these exhaust valves or solenoids, or any tips? I think it should be doable. At the moment, I have just let the air out of the system manually by pulling the air line at the compressor, and then I let the car level once, and then I pulled the fuse. That works temporarily. Apart from a faulty valve or solenoid, It could also be a faulty circuit that actuates the exhaust valve, and while I intend to check that, it seems less likely compared to the valve or solenoid itself.