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Found 7 results

  1. HI ALL NEW TO THE FORUM I am about to start on a rebuild of my Seville STS. The items to be done or redone are as follows. I have an extreme stress job all mental so build the next two cars is my physical release of stress. To start with I have a blown gasket and a collapsed lifter. My spouse continued to drive the car and cracked the transmission cooler in the radiator flooding the engine with trans fluid and the trans with coolant. So pretty much toast. I have previously upgraded the brakes with Stage III Power Stop rotors and pads works nice but after sitting they require resurfacing. I will be making a polisher to do this as in my home state service providers are afraid of recutting rotors especially when they are drilled. Back in the 1980s I worked for GM as a DCS tech and forensic specialist out of Corvette Action Center and PRO. We had severe issues in Florida with the early Lumina brake systems warping rotors and chattering I designed a KentMoore tool similar to the Jaguar inboard brake resurfacer it uses #m polishing pads rather than cutting bits to resurface the rotors on the car. Pretty simple device bolts to the brake caliper mounting flange and uses air motor right angle grinders with spirolock pads. I have a couple of body issues one is the drivers side back door welt is rusting through under the welt so I will document how to do a simple resign repair, not bondo but epoxy. The roof channels have leaked on the electric top since I bought the car new. I am removing the electric roof completely and replacing with a simple after market sun roof with lift out panel. I will be trimming the interior to fit with factory styling. Because of the roof leak I have several issues in the interior one is a pretty bad case of mildew. Having restored flood damaged cars in the past I intend to use a Ozone generator to bleach the whole interior for several days. The factory material will be placed with flocked marine canvas and composite leather cloth. I found a great manual shoe stitching machine on Amazon that does a great job at sewing leather. I converted a L91 Caprice police car to a G body Fleetwood interior a few years ago was my main driver for 8 years. The interior stuff is always fun because GM tried to provide common tooling for many of it's vehicles and most mountings are common across many car lines. Not really happy with the Dash on this model I will be building a custom gauge cluster and navigation center using standard desktop PC components and linux open source software. The seats are functional but need leather replacement and due to my illness my back has a tendency to tweek on hard turns so I will be setting a pair of racing buckets into the build. If people need seat parts I will have two working units available. Since the roof leak was mainly in the drivers side A pillar the electrical seems to have been damaged so not bothering to repair it I will be replacing the whole thing with a new custom harness. The suspension was upgrade a few years ago with all new urethane bushings and aftermarket shock absorbers with level ride maintained I will document that process for the build as I will be removing the factory magnaride completely and replacing with a simple arduino based controller. This model of seville squatted nicely when over 90MPH and the ride stiffened greatly the after market struts have air ride built in and are actually stiffer so I have in mind a air valve control that will squat the car and keep it stiff all the time. The engine carriage mounts have already been up graded to urethane and HDPE I will document the process of making the mounts it is actually pretty simple. I paid someone to replace the transmission when I became ill thinking that I would bounce back quicker than I have so I will be building the jack and stand system to drop the carrier without the over head lift. Once the front body work is removed from these chassis they easy to work on. Many struggle needlessly to avoid dropping the carrier. A couple of weld up scissor stands and a porta power will get the car 36 inches off the ground lifted from the body welts on the sides. The carrier comes out as you lift the body with a weld up dolly it takes about 2 hours to pull the whole assembly. The transmission is a simple bent version of a 4L80E same parts mostly with a heavy chain. The differential will be upgraded to a mini locker like the ones used in the 7 5/8 rear of any GM they cost about $250 it makes some noise when making sharp turns but for HotRod use it stops the crazy unpredictable torque steer when accelerating hard. The week point on these transmissions is the 3-4 apply band and housing the after market has case repair kits for the GMC K series trucks that work in this trans. Another company TCI makes an upgrade kit for sprags and drums clutches and all for the 4L80E that works in this trans. I have not seen a decent High Capacity oil pan for this so I may need to weld one up. The front pump is essentially the same as a 4L80E so I will pick up a stahl convertor once I figure my torque peek. My engine has suffered the dreaded over heat than code 300 sporadic miss for years WOT usually cleared it out but after the last run it has an audible noise that matches the miss. Compression is good so I think it is probably a collapsed hydraulic cam adjuster. If it is a core shift in the head I will be documenting how to weld the bore and rebore a new. I am also planning on putting a turbo on this build or maybe a M122 eaton I have to get and accurate pattern for the difference between the XLR heads and the STS heads if there is a difference maybe someone hear knows. I will look at machining the adapters if practical if not turbo it will be. I plan to redesign the exhaust manifolds for this car either way the rear one is basically a modified log manifold. So if I go turbo it will be a mandrel bent log style manifold with a scavenging front pie wedge triY setup. The block will be either timesert or I saw a guy who makes larger studs for these engines I will inspect once apart and determine what course to take. As I am going to boost the engine I plan to add piston bottom oil cooling to help prevent lean burn through. Used it on many of my previous builds using diesel engine main bearing squirter inserts it works nicely. As I am boosting and planning on running at Higher RPM I will be looking at methods to stabilize the lower block main caps I can machine steel 4-6 bolt caps or simply girdle the whole bottom of the block I have to look at the webbing in the casting to determine whats needed. The pistons are pretty good in these motors is the originals still look good I will lighten them up and plate the tops with nickel the skirts will be coated with Tungsten Disulfide as I have about 4 Kilos of the stuff in my one blasting cabinet. I may select some after market rods once I get some accurate dimensions for them PCE in Australia has a bunch of nice H-beam rods that I have modified for strange builds in the past. As for the electronics I will be using my own fuel management system I have a couple of threads on other forums covering the fuel systems I have built. My Goal is to produce about 750 crankshaft HP dropping the car down into the 12 second realm. With a mild street presence. To do so either the M122 or turbo intake manifold will change so I may lower the engine in the cradle or put a cowl on the hood. It will be a fun build I will keep lots of photos and probably some how to videos. I figure about twenty or so commercial products will come out of this build so it will get rid of my aggression and please the wife on Total cost involved. This is my 50th year of Heavy automotive engineering and actually still love building hotrods. Also this is my 17th Cadillac Hotrod starting out with a 472 powered 1972 Chevy Impala with a complete funeral car Caribou interior and trim transplant. Tubbed rear wheels before they became cool. My favorites are the 9 Cadillac Cameros for racing. The guys called the Cadillac motors boat anchors but they started out over 300Hp and with shipyard blowers hit 700-900 easily. Look forward to having some fun.
  2. I will be instaling 12.75" front disc brakes and 11.75" rear disc brakes on my 2002 Eldorado using OEM parts swapped in from other GM cars. This big brake upgrade is being done on a very tight budget so I will be using as many parts as possible from a local salvage yard. I will edit the follwing statement when I find out for sure the year of the factory upgrade: When the 1992 Eldorado and Seville first appeared, they had smaller disc brakes than the later models. I belive the front and rear discs were 10.75" or 10.9"... sometime around 1997, there was a factory upgrade and the rear brakes were 11.0" for FE1 cars slightly larger for FE3 cars (i think it was 11.4") and they were given 11.75" front discs. However, the lighter C4 Corvette had 12" front and rear brakes on the base model and 12.9" front brakes on the Z51 cars. I can put those Vette brakes on the car, but it would require more modifications. The 11.75" rear/12/75" front is an easy bolt-on swap. My journey begins in the salvage yard; to be continued.....
  3. Have an issue that I'm hoping someone can help me with. I was replacing the studs and when pulling the brake calliber, the pads fell out. So, I don't know how they go back on. One has a clip, while the other does not. What I need to know then is if the one with the clip goes on the inside or the outside. Help!
  4. I thought I had JE5 brake discs but after putting on one of the Duralast disc I bought from AutoZone, I was concerned that I bought the wrong size. The Duralast was obviously bigger than what was on the car. I'm thinking, it looks like the caliper bracket may not fit. So, I put the disc on--and thought--WOW! That is one pretty big disc! But, what do you know, the bracket fit with about 1/16 to 1/8-inch to spare. Apparently, the discs that were on were not the right ones, which explains why my brakes are gouged/grooved on the inside. The rotors I replaced didn't have enough surface area to accommodate the larger JE5 brakes. I suspected something wasn't right and now the new discs confirm that I was driving around with undersized discs. What else, since the Duralast discs are for JE5 brakes, have more surface area, and fit. My guess--and most logical answer--is that the original factory discs were replaced before I bought the car with the wrong ones. Now I have to replace the brakes a soon as possible, so I don't damage the discs. I also have Duralast on the rear. So far, so good. They are holding up well after at least 6 months.
  5. Hi all. My 96 Deville has no brakes for the third time during my ownership. All I can say is Welcome to NY. As hard as I try my Deville is rusting. Anyway The information I am looking for is, Does anyone know or have a diagram explaining which line goes where off the abs unit. and does anyone have any info of exactly what extra parts are inline throughout the car? I have already replaced the lines from the master to the abs unit, and the front brake hoses. Everything else looks horrible, and I lost all braking again the other day at a very unfortunate time. This time it emptied just forward of the driver door. Thanks all for any help in advance, this year has been horrible already and this is just being a topper to it all. hard to believe we are only halfway through january and things could be so poor.
  6. Here's a good one for you! I have a 1992 Seville and lately I have had an issue with my dashlights not coming on. They are auto-lights so they should come on when the headlights come on but thats not the case. More often then not when I start my car (in the dark) The miliage, fuel, and radio lights are the only ones that come on and will dim super dark before being bright. The dash light will come on whenever it feels like it if at all sometimes a few seconds, others a few minutes, and some times not at all. Here's the weird thing... when the dash lights fail to come on, only 1/3 of my brake light bar works. When the dash light do come on the brake bar is fully lit! I have seached for any and all relays that might have to do with this and was either unsucessful in locating or the ones I did replace were not the fix. Has anyone dealt with this before or have any ideas???
  7. I installed EBC Green Stuff brake pads on front and rear and must say they are better than OEM. So far, bite is excellent and I'm using less effort to stop. I just put them on today, so I'll wait another week before I give an update. If they continue to be as good as they are now I don't see any reason to buy anything else. The big test as far as I'm concerned is whether they produce less dust, which is one of the selling points.
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