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Showing results for tags 'alternator'.
Found 8 results
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I've read and watched about 100 different things, and they are all different. I have a '98 STS, the cross bracing on top of rad is welded. Is there a way to get the alternator out of the bottom? Or do I actually have to remove radiator and all to get this thing out with my certain model? I can't find my exact model anywhere... And as I said, no 2 descriptions seem to be the same. I got the alternator with I guess it has water cooling lines going to it? If anyone knows exactly about this year/model please help! -
Hi everyone, new guy here. I have a 97 Eldorado that I have been battling a charging issue on. It started with the alternator going out. I replaced the alternator with a Napa reman, DIC still stated low battery voltage. I tested the output at the alternator and was 10.4. Thinking I got a bad alternator, I went back to Napa and got a new one (not reman). Installed it in the car. Same issue, DIC reads low battery voltage, tested output at alternator and got 11.4. I took it to a shop and had the battery tested, it is good. They tested the charging system and got the same reading as the DIC. The mechanic dug around a bit and found a bad connector on the wire going to the back of the alternator. They replaced the connector and still no change. They thought the bad connector may have damaged the alternator so they replaced the alternator again. Still no change, DIC reads low battery voltage and output at the alternator still at 11. They did some research and told me that the instrument cluster is what tells the alternator to charge.....HMMM?? OK. I took the car and ordered a used cluster ( the salvage yard said it may need programming ) and installed that. The DIC then read starting disabled, remove key, wait three minutes. I did this 4 times and nothing. I installed the original cluster back into the car and it starts and runs but still has low battery voltage. HELP!!!!
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I needed a new starter for a 98 Eldorado and planned to get an AC Delco rebuild, it was $128, the only rebuild I would normally use is an AC Delco or one by a reputable rebuilder, but my rebuilder Montrose in Babylon, NY went out of business. My friend told me to use Genco Rebuilders, a local firm as he has used them for 25 years and he has vintage starters, generators and alternators rebuilt. I called the company and found that they were bought out by BBB Industries. He insisted that I use them and I called an ordered a NS starter, $110. I was very impressed with their operation and especially with the detailed testing that they did, that ensured that the motor performed well. I know that shipping can push the price of a unit out of consideration but you might try and see if they have a local distributor. Here is the Northstar starter motor test that they performed and their contact numbers and web page info to find a local distributor.
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I have a 2003 cadillac deville dts battery not charging came on display drove car for 3 days thinking it would correct itself, Dash light come and go randomly, PCM? Car finally died 3 days later after dash lights started dancing and dash went black/dead. Took car to autozone they said it was a bad battery i knew it was the alternator bought a new battery and an alternator from o'rileys. Changed alternator car is running good. Heres the thing drl's not on/working when they used to automatically come on any other time. Anytime i turn my lights, turn signals or ac on car stalls and dies. Brake lights function normally. only issue is when i try those 3 features the car dies. So i cant drive at night only daytime. I have not made any changes that require power to the car. Only mods i have done are replace door speaker(not component) and ran the blown rear DVC sub lines to 2 SVC 10' pyle subs. No after market deck or amp. ANy help is appreciated. There have been no major issues with the car and it has 135k on it I recently did a round trip to new orleans. Ryan
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Good morning caddy enthusiats. I bring to you all an issue I ran into 15 minutes ago on my way to work. Anyway, I go out to my 95 concours this morning and when I turn the key over to start it, it wont give anything, not a click, no turning over, nothing. The lights, buttons, antenna and dash display still function so I doubt it's a battery issue. This isn't the first time this has happened (it started mid last week) but I've always gotten it to start usually after about the 3rd time I turn the key over to start it. It would take about 5-6 seconds of me holding the key to get it to start but it did it. I'm not sure what to do at the moment. Just looking for some advice and insight plz. Thanx folks
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Hi all, I'm hoping someone can assist me with an issue I'm having with a 1999 Cadillac sls. First off, when the car is not driven for a few days it is stone dead. Will not start. No lights, nothing. I replaced two alternators and the battery. Issue still keeps happening. Now when I have the car running the security light and battery light stays on. I took off the rear seat to check the fuse box and there is a light blue wire and a black and white wire cut. there are so many wires i dont know what these go to. when i put the wires together with the power probe battery light stays on, and security light comes off. when i put the power probe to the black wire with no power or ground the battery light comes off. I am so stumped. I spoke to customer service and the guy ran the vin, said there "may" be a recall and a bulletin on the vehiclel but was unable to tell me what it was all about. When i call the dealership they say nothing comes up, but it "may" be an inline jumper harness short? I never even heard of this. Im at an impass. I hope somebody can shed some light on this. Thank you!
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95 STS needs alternator will a 97 eldorado's work? My husband is removing it from the 97 to use in the 95 and I dont know if it will work.
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Just bought a 97 Deville. Really great car. 42,000 miles, one owner. Clean history, car always serviced by Cadillac. Also have a couple of older Cadillacs. 76 Seville, 78 Eldorado and 87 Coupe Deville. Member of Cadillac Lasalle Club, but I think with the newer car, this might be the place for advice. This car is a different animal. Took me 10 minutes to get the air filter box apart. With the 70’s cars can do it in the dark with my eyes closed. The previous owners said that the car does not keep a charge. After a few days of standing the battery is dead. They tested the battery and alternator (so they say), and everything turned out fine. The lights seem to dim slightly when driving at night, not applying any throttle. Also when I apply the brakes I can see a SLIGHT dimming of the lights. Just a tad dimming, then the lights brighten again. The display reads above 13, up to 14 or so volts while accelerating. No codes. Even under idle the display reads around 13 volts. I just bought a new battery, and it does the same thing. I took the old battery in, and they said it looks fine, but only 26% charged. I drove around the whole weekend, probably 300 miles !!!! If the alternator is bad, would the display still read over 13 volts? Anything else it could be? The belt / and / or pulleys also seem to be squeaking. Just ordered a new belt and idler pulley. Belt actually looks fine. If still squeaking will replace tensioner too. What is the torque specs for the pulleys? (will get factory manual soon). I replaced the alternators on my other cars, easy as can be. Two bolts and thats it. With this one I really want to be sure its the alternator before I have to go in there. Dont even know where to start. On a side note. The Dex Cool looked great. Oil life was good, only thing is the air filter was FILTHY. !! Don’t know if the dealer ever replaced that air filter.
