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Found 12 results

  1. HI ALL NEW TO THE FORUM I am about to start on a rebuild of my Seville STS. The items to be done or redone are as follows. I have an extreme stress job all mental so build the next two cars is my physical release of stress. To start with I have a blown gasket and a collapsed lifter. My spouse continued to drive the car and cracked the transmission cooler in the radiator flooding the engine with trans fluid and the trans with coolant. So pretty much toast. I have previously upgraded the brakes with Stage III Power Stop rotors and pads works nice but after sitting they require resurfacing. I will be making a polisher to do this as in my home state service providers are afraid of recutting rotors especially when they are drilled. Back in the 1980s I worked for GM as a DCS tech and forensic specialist out of Corvette Action Center and PRO. We had severe issues in Florida with the early Lumina brake systems warping rotors and chattering I designed a KentMoore tool similar to the Jaguar inboard brake resurfacer it uses #m polishing pads rather than cutting bits to resurface the rotors on the car. Pretty simple device bolts to the brake caliper mounting flange and uses air motor right angle grinders with spirolock pads. I have a couple of body issues one is the drivers side back door welt is rusting through under the welt so I will document how to do a simple resign repair, not bondo but epoxy. The roof channels have leaked on the electric top since I bought the car new. I am removing the electric roof completely and replacing with a simple after market sun roof with lift out panel. I will be trimming the interior to fit with factory styling. Because of the roof leak I have several issues in the interior one is a pretty bad case of mildew. Having restored flood damaged cars in the past I intend to use a Ozone generator to bleach the whole interior for several days. The factory material will be placed with flocked marine canvas and composite leather cloth. I found a great manual shoe stitching machine on Amazon that does a great job at sewing leather. I converted a L91 Caprice police car to a G body Fleetwood interior a few years ago was my main driver for 8 years. The interior stuff is always fun because GM tried to provide common tooling for many of it's vehicles and most mountings are common across many car lines. Not really happy with the Dash on this model I will be building a custom gauge cluster and navigation center using standard desktop PC components and linux open source software. The seats are functional but need leather replacement and due to my illness my back has a tendency to tweek on hard turns so I will be setting a pair of racing buckets into the build. If people need seat parts I will have two working units available. Since the roof leak was mainly in the drivers side A pillar the electrical seems to have been damaged so not bothering to repair it I will be replacing the whole thing with a new custom harness. The suspension was upgrade a few years ago with all new urethane bushings and aftermarket shock absorbers with level ride maintained I will document that process for the build as I will be removing the factory magnaride completely and replacing with a simple arduino based controller. This model of seville squatted nicely when over 90MPH and the ride stiffened greatly the after market struts have air ride built in and are actually stiffer so I have in mind a air valve control that will squat the car and keep it stiff all the time. The engine carriage mounts have already been up graded to urethane and HDPE I will document the process of making the mounts it is actually pretty simple. I paid someone to replace the transmission when I became ill thinking that I would bounce back quicker than I have so I will be building the jack and stand system to drop the carrier without the over head lift. Once the front body work is removed from these chassis they easy to work on. Many struggle needlessly to avoid dropping the carrier. A couple of weld up scissor stands and a porta power will get the car 36 inches off the ground lifted from the body welts on the sides. The carrier comes out as you lift the body with a weld up dolly it takes about 2 hours to pull the whole assembly. The transmission is a simple bent version of a 4L80E same parts mostly with a heavy chain. The differential will be upgraded to a mini locker like the ones used in the 7 5/8 rear of any GM they cost about $250 it makes some noise when making sharp turns but for HotRod use it stops the crazy unpredictable torque steer when accelerating hard. The week point on these transmissions is the 3-4 apply band and housing the after market has case repair kits for the GMC K series trucks that work in this trans. Another company TCI makes an upgrade kit for sprags and drums clutches and all for the 4L80E that works in this trans. I have not seen a decent High Capacity oil pan for this so I may need to weld one up. The front pump is essentially the same as a 4L80E so I will pick up a stahl convertor once I figure my torque peek. My engine has suffered the dreaded over heat than code 300 sporadic miss for years WOT usually cleared it out but after the last run it has an audible noise that matches the miss. Compression is good so I think it is probably a collapsed hydraulic cam adjuster. If it is a core shift in the head I will be documenting how to weld the bore and rebore a new. I am also planning on putting a turbo on this build or maybe a M122 eaton I have to get and accurate pattern for the difference between the XLR heads and the STS heads if there is a difference maybe someone hear knows. I will look at machining the adapters if practical if not turbo it will be. I plan to redesign the exhaust manifolds for this car either way the rear one is basically a modified log manifold. So if I go turbo it will be a mandrel bent log style manifold with a scavenging front pie wedge triY setup. The block will be either timesert or I saw a guy who makes larger studs for these engines I will inspect once apart and determine what course to take. As I am going to boost the engine I plan to add piston bottom oil cooling to help prevent lean burn through. Used it on many of my previous builds using diesel engine main bearing squirter inserts it works nicely. As I am boosting and planning on running at Higher RPM I will be looking at methods to stabilize the lower block main caps I can machine steel 4-6 bolt caps or simply girdle the whole bottom of the block I have to look at the webbing in the casting to determine whats needed. The pistons are pretty good in these motors is the originals still look good I will lighten them up and plate the tops with nickel the skirts will be coated with Tungsten Disulfide as I have about 4 Kilos of the stuff in my one blasting cabinet. I may select some after market rods once I get some accurate dimensions for them PCE in Australia has a bunch of nice H-beam rods that I have modified for strange builds in the past. As for the electronics I will be using my own fuel management system I have a couple of threads on other forums covering the fuel systems I have built. My Goal is to produce about 750 crankshaft HP dropping the car down into the 12 second realm. With a mild street presence. To do so either the M122 or turbo intake manifold will change so I may lower the engine in the cradle or put a cowl on the hood. It will be a fun build I will keep lots of photos and probably some how to videos. I figure about twenty or so commercial products will come out of this build so it will get rid of my aggression and please the wife on Total cost involved. This is my 50th year of Heavy automotive engineering and actually still love building hotrods. Also this is my 17th Cadillac Hotrod starting out with a 472 powered 1972 Chevy Impala with a complete funeral car Caribou interior and trim transplant. Tubbed rear wheels before they became cool. My favorites are the 9 Cadillac Cameros for racing. The guys called the Cadillac motors boat anchors but they started out over 300Hp and with shipyard blowers hit 700-900 easily. Look forward to having some fun.
  2. 2010 Escalade Ext Magneride . Rear shocks and compressor needed replace . Replaced Magneride rear with two Skyjacker H7017 Softride Hydro shocks and two Firestone spring assist airbags inside the rear springs . Since then the truck loses engine power at 75 mph. The engine is still running but at reduced rpm with no response to gas pedal . The only code that came up was for oil pressure sensor high voltage . 'Service suspension system' has been showing long before switch from magneride to hydro rear shocks . The wires that went to the factory stock magneride shocks are now attached to nothing . My question is what should I do with these wire? And, does anyone know if this could be the cause of the loss of power at 80mph ? Thank-you for any suggestions. Additional Notes: For the last 5 years I commute 5 days a week an hour each way on a major highway . I get to the fast lane , set cruise at 129kmh (80mph) , rarely have to tap the brake and resume, never been pulled over, the truck makes for a comfortable commute . I make this point because I can get the truck to 129kmh (80mph) but within about 5 seconds the engine power is reduced and does not respond to the gas pedal manually or the cruise control. On cruise control at 80mph the truck with slow down to 70mph then the transmission shifted down and the engine rpm's went from under 2000 to 3500 as the cruise control must have been putting demands on the truck trying to get back to its 80mph set cruise speed but it couldn't and the engine rpm jumped from 3500 then to 2300 and the transmission was clunking as it went from gear to gear trying to figure out what it was supposed to do .
  3. I recently replaced all four shocks/struts with new ones from Arnott. The message "Service Ride Control" still comes up every time I start my car and I know the reason could be non-working solenoids, sensors etc. But as I replaced the shocks and the old suspension system is no longer operational, I like to get rid of that annoying message. I searched the whole net for an answer. Could anyone help me? How can I bypass and permanently delete "Service Ride Control" on a Cadillac Seville STS 1994? Thanks a lot in advance! Best regards. Fred from Sweden
  4. ...here's on for Texas Jim. ...just had the rear shocks and the front struts replaced on my '98 Deville. Was still hearing some clunking over potholes and rough spots, so I went back to the front end shop. Turns out the tie rod ends were loose. Okay...took care of that. No big deal. ...but the system is throwing a SVC SYSPENSION SYSTM at me...and doggoned if I know what to look at next. ...it also lights the Anti-lock Braking and Steering icons on the dash display. ...got me puzzled...but I'd sure like to correct whatever it is. ...thanks. Still enjoy driving this fine old machine...less than 200,00o on it, has everything I could ask for in a fine automobile and still looks good.
  5. Hello Caddy Enthusiats!!!! I would like to keep things short and simple. My question today is what part(s) should be replaced based on the DTC codes that are pulled from my car? I have a 95 DeVille Concours. The codes are as follows: P035 P036 P039 P040 S010 S011 S012 S015 S016 S017 S021 S022 S025 S027 S030 S031 S035 S037 S044 S051 S060 S061 Any input would be greatly appreciated and I would like to thank everybody in advance for their suggestions. Thanx!!!
  6. There's an inch-and-a-half-thick Owners' Manual that came with my 98 DeVille d'Elegance...and here are three words that DO NOT APPEAR anywhere in that book: suspension, shocks, struts. It doesn't even tell me whether I have electronic shocks or not. I know the ride isn't what it ought to be -- probably still running OE stuff, since this car was bought from a prior owner -- but I need to know what I'm dealing with. So please tell me what suspension this car has. Thanks very much.
  7. Hello, I used to be rmink on here but it couldn't retrieve my profile for some reason.. Anyway, I have a leak (again) in my rear air hose, and when I crawled under the car I saw a bar that was broke at the bolts (LftDrvr) This has 2 long bars running across each side to the middle close to under the rear frame/airline area. One has separated/broke from the bolts. It LOOKS? easy enough for me to fix myself with enough lockerloose, but I have no idea what it is or what all entails to fix it. Anyone see these bars and feel I can buy one reasonably and put it on on a Saturday afternoon? I do all my own work, (mostly) but there is a very cheap shop run by a Mexican close, feel I should just let him do the work? My job is real slooow right now, I need the $$ myself!! Would a Junkyard bar be good enough?? Thank You!
  8. I have a base model 2005 Deville that I have recently acquired. The car is in great mechanical shape but I have questioned the suspension on it. When I first start the car I hear the suspension in the back doing its thing, but I have noticed that when there are people in the back or the trunk is full the car sags. Shouldn't the ride height remain the same no matter what? I guess I am comparing it to a Lincoln Town Car air suspension, are they the same or different? Any info is appreciated. Thank you.
  9. Needing advice and help. My 75 Eldorado rear leveling suspension isn't working. I don't know if it is a minor problem or if there are replacements parts or fixes for this. Any advice or help is appreciated.
  10. Hi all. I have had a clunk in the right front of my Deville for as long as I can remember. I think it had it when I bought the car. Anyway I have given up a few times trying to figure out the cause, and I am starting to pull my hair out because it sounds louder now but I just cant detect the exact problem. Here is what it does. If you hit a bump on the right side only it clunks I cannot feel it in the steering wheel. Drives straight and wheel is straight If you hit a bump(speed bump for example) where both front tires contact, nothing happens It is specific to the corner only. I have replaced inner and outer tie rods. (inner had play when I bought the car) I removed and rebushed the lower control arm last year when I repaired the strut rod portion. I replaced the balljoint when I had the control arm out I replaced the hub assembly (noisy but no play) I replaced the sway bar links And lastly I replaced the whole strut with a donor unit (basically to see if anything would change). Nothing has solved the noise I have jacked it up by the body and checked for play, also inspected the subframe bushings which look surprisingly good for the year and miles I jacked it up by the control arm and checked for play. Nothing. I have tried bouncing the front end, grabbing the wheel and checking while on the ground. Nothing at all. I am down to thinking it can be sway bar bushings(I would think it would be noisy with both sides though) I inspected the swaybar and found no play or cracks Subframe bushings worn. I would not know how to find out if this is the problem. Replacement strut just as bad as old one. An expensive gamble for a new unit. I am baffled that as much noise that it makes that I cannot find the cause. I thought for sure that when I fixed the strut rod bushings last year that that would have cured it, but not with my luck. And another thing that has been driving me nuts. The clock is running faster than usual. It gained 9 minutes in a month. This is very common to these but I dont know why. Usually it will be 10 minutes fast after about 6 months but not lately. Maybe I will have to talk to the dealer on this one. Thanks all in advance for any insight
  11. Hello all. My 96 Deville throws the RS0038 code. for the rear ELC. I cannot find the description for the code at this time but I know it has something to do with the compressor. I have run into this cde many times before on other Cadillacs and usually the ELC fuse in the trunk pops and the compressor does not operate. But this one is not happening like that. here is what I have for info. Car rides fine No other codes present Have never gotten a service ride control message Air compressor works fine and exhausts fine rear suspension does not change when vehicle sits for extended period of time. Not quite sure why this code is occuring as suspension seems to be working properly. Only one time I had about 700 lbs in back seat and rear suspension rode low. definately lower than normal. I use the spokes of my rims as reference of ride height. Normal ride height I can see the holes in the spokes at the top of the rims at the wheelwell. Which is all the time. On the ride where it rode low the rear end all you could see was half of the center cap. Yes thats very low. but still rode great. and got decent mileage. I would appreciate any insight on this topic. I plan to purchase a spare compressor to rebuild and install someday. But at this time I am not too worried about the problem. the code has been coming up for awhile and the only reason why I know its there is because I run the codes once in awhile and it is the only code. Whatever is causing this code only seems to be affected by heavy load in the rear end. other than that it rides perfectly normal. thanks all
  12. Hi. Shop says I need rear shocks on my 1996 Deville; they're leaking. I love the car. It is showroom. But they say it will cost me $3,400 (in NY). On-line repair estimators verify this amount. Anyone here know any alternatives? I can't spend that kind of money on just a couple of shocks. Is it time to junk my Cadillac? Thanks for your feedback. (
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