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  1. Heyo everyone, Im 18 and going to college. I have grown up in a life sheltered from nice things, so when I got my first job at 16 I made sure to save to buy nice things. And viola I found a 92 cadillac deville touring. Beautiful car. Honestly a dream car type of feeling. Bought it from a local owner who sold it “for a friend.” So before I talk about what’s wrong with the car and everything, I gotta say the actual circumstances is more screwed than the car, so that’s honestly the advice I’m asking for. I’m super new to this realm of conversation. So I bought it from this guy for $3,200 a few days ago. Bit pricey but mileage was low and he held it for me for a few days while I got my bank situated. and he said it just needed an oil change. I took it for a test drive and it sounded like a tick, but again he said it has just been sitting there and needs fresh gas and oil, as well as filters and whatnot. Tuneup stuff shouldn’t be too bad. Well first problem is he didn’t give me a door key, and I ended up triggering an alarm every time I opened the door until i went to a locksmith the day after. Let it slide cause I’m chill Then yesterday took it to the shop for oil change to see if the ticking would stop. They gave me a service report saying I need two distributor caps and a rotor, all new spark plugs and wire set, air filter, maybe a suspension joint or something. Ok and then they said the tires were cracking, and they could be a safety hazard. then they said the ticking may be a lifter problem. That’s not cool. I’m not good with cars but I’m good at research and a lifter job is not a joke! $2k professional job and if I did it myself i would have to do it correctly, which I’m hearing is not as easy as grandmas pie. And a set of tires is notoriously $600, and that’s not including the alignment I might need to get. i conclude I’m completely jipped with this deal. I ask the guy who sold it to me to talk to his friend to see if he’ll help me cause I’m now in a rock and a hard place as a young person. had my job close down around Christmas too so I don’t have income. I just asked for about one thousand to compensate for the broke crap in the car. He basically said he gave the money to his friend but he’ll see what he can do. I know a friend of his and this friend’s social media was filled with them buying crap and throwing a party tonight? Basically indicates that this may just be a big ole fashioned scam Im so sorry for the length bare with me. Almost done. I basically go on Monday to get the tires done for safety reasons. The thing is registered and whatnot. My big dilemma is: what the hell do I do? I have 2.7k left in the bank for now until I get a job again. Is this worth it if you were in my position? Do I retry for another car and try to sell the one I own or do I suck it up and invest in the caddy? The past few days tell me nothing about how it may do in the future, but all I know is I probably got taken advantage of again im new to Cadillacs and cars in general. I really need some help in weighing pros and cons of spending so much on the car. It’s a lot of money for me, and the economy my age group is entering is so ruthless, so I just don’t know where to begin. Thank you everyone who took the time to read.
  2. Hey there, I'm new here. Last year I inherited a 1999 Deville with only 23,000 miles on the clock. Although many of its 21 year old features are still working a few of them are not. Case in point my A/C. Now I've tried everything, no ACM codes in diagnostics modes, no clutch click when jumping the relay, and I was going to try the voltage at the clutch but I can't seem to find where the harness plugs into it. It definitely has refrigerant, but I'm about a pound shy since I can't get the clutch to engage to suck the rest of it in.
  3. First some history, and an apology to purists. I have a '37 LaSalle (5019, 4-door touring sedan) that had already been modified when I bought it. The body and most of the interior were intact and all original but the chassis and drivetrain had long since been removed. In their place was a 2X4 frame with 1970 Chevelle front and rear frame clips. There was no engine or transmission. I'm keeping the body stock, with all that beautiful trim, etc, no chopping or anything like that, also retaining the original dash, which is also beautiful. Beyond that, however, I'm doing something pretty different. I'm using the engine and automatic overdrive from a 2004 GMC Envoy. It's a DOHC inline six and is a nod to my first car, a '63 Chevy, which had an inline 6. For the seats, I'm using the white leather from a 2001 Deville. For those who are upset about my modifications, I apologize, however, I think of my project as giving life and love to a car that had been already modified and then abandoned. This LaSalle is now back on the road in a limited fashion. It runs but is far from finished. So I bought a 2001 DeVille with a bad motor so I could harvest the interior. I ended up taking the wiring harness and all the computer modules except the PCM and I stripped all the pieces and parts and modules out of the doors as well because who knows what I might need someday... As you may imagine, there have been several twists in this project. The current one, which is the point of this post is this. I'd like to hook up the seat heaters. My question is this: Do I need to hook up the dash integration module and/or the rear integration module for the heaters to work? My guess is that at least one of them needs to be active but I haven't found a definitive answer. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help! Thanks, Mike
  4. I'm experiencing a crank, but no start on my 1996 Cadillac Deville. The car was running previously and it stalled in traffic out of nowhere to which it would no longer start again, I was able to get it towed back home. I checked the fuel pressure when turning the key to the ON position, not START and it goes up to 10psi and then drops to zero within about a second. I am also not receiving any DTC codes pointing me to any issues. From my research I found that 3 of the main problems could be the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, or the fuel filter. I am looking for some help and some tips to help me further my investigation into pinpoint what the actual problem could be. Any ideas?
  5. I have a 96 Cadillac Deville that is overheating and blowing white smoke out of the tail pipe as well as spitting water out of the tail pipe. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Has new water pump, new thermostat, no leak, etc.
  6. I have a 1999 Deville with 31k miles on it. The car is in pretty much new condition. Not a single issue with it... Except that I'm now having an intermittent starting issue. Yesterday I was forced to replace a fuse for the radio. I inadvertently pulled the "Batt1" fuse in the engine bay area while trying to find the blown fuse for the radio. Long story short I found the right location in the trunk and replaced the blow fuse and all is well with the radio. NOW when you insert the key into the ignition it has a solid traction control light. The PRND321 lights are flashing, I have a slow steady chime and a message saying service traction control system and service security system message that says car might not restart. Here is the kicker... If I take the Batt1 fuse out and put it back in, the car will start perfect! After driving the car for a little bit then parking and getting back it, the car says the same message and won't let me start. If I pull the fuse and put it back in, boom! The car starts fine. What on earth could be causing this?? Thanks in advance.
  7. Hello and thank you in advance for any help anyone can offer. I recently bought a 1997 Cadillac DeVille. It is a little bit of a fixer upper but definitely a great for car for my son once he is able to get his license. At first i had no issues with brakes but last weekend traction control and ABS light came on after hearing ABS pump cycle. Previously I noticed sometimes when driving if I hit a dip brake light would come on but go away usually few seconds later. Brakes never felt off and car stopped fine.. When i pulled the codes it came back with C1255. I was hoping that maybe a brake flush would help since fluid was pretty dark. To my horror the brake fluid was a dark green, never seen that in a car before that wasn't sitting in a field for years, and had some air in the lines that I was able to bleed out. Fluid now is pretty clear but when I start car in the morning I still hear the ABS pump turn on and off several times and then the traction control light and ABS light come on still. Not sure if not is normal but when ABS pump comes on it is pretty loud. When i first purchased car I never heard ABS pump come on and never had any codes related to brake system. From my research the EBCM need to be reflowed with solder but I am curious if maybe the pump itself is bad. Any information is appreciated and hopefully someone can point me in a good direction.
  8. Hello! I have a 1990 Cadillac Deville, 4.5L V8 PFI, 75,068 Miles. Today I was driving and all of a sudden the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light came on and both the Fuel In Tank and Electronic Climate Control read outs started showing a “d”. (See pictures in links below). https://i.imgur.com/urkMrQF.jpg https://i.imgur.com/jnIw9xU.jpg https://i.imgur.com/VXwOqxk.jpg Gallery On top of this the Air conditioning fan started blowing air from the dash, not hot or cold, just ambient temperature air and I can’t change the Climate Control or see the fuel level anymore. When I got home I unhooked the battery to reset it then turned the ignition on without starting the car and pressed “Off” and “Warm” on the climate control so see if I could get a code it looked like a code flashed (to fast for me to read), then it read 000 and would blink over to .7.0 occasionally. I replaced some vacuum hoses that were kind of bridle as well as replaced the o-ring that goes between the air filter housing and the carburetor since it was cracked. I hooked the battery back up and the dash read-outs still showed “d”, SERVICE ENGINE SOON light, and the air was still blowing from the dash. I called around and neither Auto Zone or O’rilleys has the OBD 1 connector to scan the older (pre 1996) cars. The car runs great so it’s hard to trouble shoot whats going on, and I cant find anything at all online about this specific problem. Any ideas or suggestions?
  9. I have a 1996 deville that idle highs at around 2200-3000 RPM when sitting park and when it is in drive it can reach about 30 mph without me pressing the gas. I've changed the following parts and still doing the same thing. vehicle does not misfire or idle rough and starts up immediately. I am stumped. -changed TPS -changed MAF SENSOR -changed IDLE AIR CONTROL SENSOR -changed INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS -changed EVAP PURGE SOLENOID
  10. Hello. Quick question for anyone who could let me know... I own a 1997 eldorado sedan cadi. And it was in perfect condition. Only 54,000 miles on it. Someone side swiped my car in the middle of the night. The drivers side has bad damage all the way down. I need to replace the door on the outside. The inside still works. So would a deville 1997 door work? Let me know if you know please.
  11. Hi all, First off I'm SO very happy I found this forum, I live in Amsterdam, The Netherlands and a Cadillac here is a bit of an Al Capone boat, no matter her age or model, most American cars are, but Cadillac.. that's only something from movies. BUT... I got myself about 1 year ago the real deal, a 2002 Deville in, I must say, mint condition, inside and out. No complaints exept for the radio that didnt do 'our' frequencies (or rather 50% of the fm frequencies, we use odd frequencies as well, the original radio only does even, or the other way around?). So replaced it with a nice pioneer digital radio with the proper interfaces to keep everything original. I love that car! In order to spoil her, I asked a friend mechanic to give it an overhaul, new fluids, new sparkplugs (they were ANCIENT), flush the coolant etc. First thing to pop was a coil, i guess it couldnt handle the new sparks, ordered a new one and all was fine. Until a few weeks later BOOM, it overheated. A quick look learned coolant was VERY low. Later I realised this was probably just an airbubble, as I started reading online about engine problems on the Deville. Yes, I am guilty as charged as not to bring it to a certified or at least experienced Cadillac shop, but keep in mind the closest one to find easilly is about 2.500miles from here: in the States, So from here on clouds drew over my Obamobile as it was commonly refered to last year (dont want to offend anyone, but I think it sounded better than 'Trumpette' as I heard someone called my baby ). In the weeks that follow things got from the temperature going thru half-way just a bit at a stoplight after a highway tour in the beginning, to sweaty and tensioned drives the past days as temperature is absolute iradic. CHECK COOLANT LEVEL was in my display ever since I bought her, so I decided to order a new reservoir with sensor so at least i could see what was going on and didnt have to check the level before a drive. That worked... for bit. Now I still check the level and fill her to the right level, close her up and start driving. About 2 minutes down the road the dash will tell me again to check the level. Here's what a typical drive now looks like for me: - I adjust the coolant if necessary, when cold the system is always under pressure. I assume that's normal. (is it?) Usually she agrees the level is ok for about 5, 6 minutes of drive (temperature raised about 1/4). - When I pull up for gas (also common on 4.6L engines i guess) and continue my drive, the level usually remains satisfactory to her, but not always. - I drive for good 20 minutes (Holland is not very big fortunately), when i dont meet any stoplights things should be good, when i need to stop, I keep my fingers crossed that dreaded needle wont go up. It goes down again as i proceed to drive. Than I stop the car and do my bussiness, so far, no problems. - I get back and halfway home, so that's about 10 minutes on the highway, temperature may go up to a level where i need to pull over and let the car cool, cuz I dont want the teperature to go in the red. Thusfar it happend to me one she told me she had turned off my a/c because her engine was hot. - When times are bad I may have to repeat those steps, when i dont rev above 2000rpm she thusfar remains fairly under control, but in the last 10 minutes to home i may have to pause 2 or 3 times to let her cool. The other day the last stop I made settled her mind, as temperature ran down to normal and as I parked she was happy as a if I had given her a box of chocolate.Temperature fine, no faults, she didnt even drain my gastank. - I go inside, do my 20 minutes of prayers and say my Hail Cadillac's and prepare for the next trip. So... My mechanic friend tested the coolant for illegal substances and we found that she's been smoking, as Co2 was found. Now you all know smoking weed is legal here but I never caught her doing any, so we came to the conclusion her head gasket was blown. So... what to do now? I have been reading and viewing youtube movies about horror stories on northstar engines, oh my, at times i get the feeling the Northstar engine is the absolute worst engine anybody ever built in the entire automobile history.. there's bolts that just pop out, entire blocks have cracks in it from front to end, they gobble up gaskets like there's no tomorrow and if you're lucky this all happens after about 10.000 miles of driving! Fortunately I know the People of The Internet have a way of over-exaggerating things and there are, so i understand 3 model northstar's, so probably it's not as bad as it looks. BUT... I need to repair my car. I love her too much to dispose of her because of this. Here's what we take into consideration given what we read and found reasonable to be true and our geographical location: - Parts for the Deville we can order online from rockauto, they are relatively inexpensive (particulary compared to european parts) and are here within 2 to 3 weeks, no problem. - The engine did at least 275.000km's up until today. - We can buy the same block at a junkyard, supposedly ran 100.000km, but we're never sure. It was a crash car so we can asume it's a fair engine for it's age and mileage. Still, it's 15 years old and did 100.000km's. It sells for say 1500 dollars. - We can buy a new longblock for roughly 4500,- dollars plus the little extra's you'll always end up needing. But it also needs shipment and it's gonna be taxed when it comes here. That means it's gonna be roughly 7500,- - We can refurbish the entire engine, that would set me back roughly 2500,- dollars. It would mean the engine would be as good as new. - We can replace the headgasket, a bit of belting, maybe a waterpump and small things only and pray there's nothing else we find. This shoud be doable for about 750,- - In any case the engine needs to be removed from and refitted to the car. One internet video tells us we should be looking at about 80 hours of work, maybe it's 40. My friend mechanic doesnt charge me top dollar but he dont work for free either. Plus during the entire time the car is under construction his garage will be occupied with Cadillac. Now I wouldnt mind that as its a Cadillac, but he does. Now after this all, I come back to my original question: now what!? What should I do? Are all my troubles coming from the headgasket? What's up with those 'pallets' everybody talks about that should be mixed with the coolant? What happens if you dont use those, will you exhaust leaks to your coolant by any chance? To go short do I NEED to replace the HG in order to solve my problems, would anybody say there is a chance I might still have the same problems when the repairs are done because i may have missed a very essential issue in maintanance somewhere? And what option of repair would you recommend? Go for the lower mileage block or instead for an overhaul of the original block? Is my block a 'good' one, or one that will spit out the bolts because of some crazy threading? the newer block or the original, would i still want to replace those bolts and use those mysterious 'inserts' or is there a better option and is it necessary? Can anybody realistically say how much time it would take to take out the engine and put it back in? And is this truly the only sensible way of repairing the HG? Ordering a new block is about the only thing I am willing to eliminate, but I am also willing to add buying an overhauled engine from the states, given the price is reasonable and shipment can be aranged, but will I have a no doubt about it excellent condition block, as warranty doesnt mean anything to me, I simply cant just send it back to have a look at it, simple as that. So than, for the diehards that took the time to read all this, my gratitude, I'm sorry for my bad English, it's hopefully more understandable than when I would have written it in Dutch, yet, my apologies, I wish you all happy and safe driving and if you can spare me any hints or tips, I'm very much looking forward to them and I'd be happy to add any information when I forgot some. Thanks in advance, greetings from Amsterdam and be well! Ron PS: My VIN has a '9' in the engine type digit.
  12. Hey everyone, I have a 1980 Coupe deville d’elegance. My sunroof stopped working the other day and it’s about 1/4 way open and won’t budge. It doesn’t sound like it’s a fuse issue with the motor because you can hear it wanting to work. When I hit the switch the motor sounds like it wants to do something but it just does not want to go.. does anyone have any experience with this problem at all? And if you could please provide me with any advice or trouble shooting ideas that would be awesome. Do I have to take the headliner out in order to get the motor out if need be? Hope to hear back from someone soon. Thanks again for your time. cheers
  13. I own a 2004 Deville and I have lost all power to my windows and locks from my drivers door. The interior lights also will not go off when the door is closed also. In a related issue my radio has stopped working, there is power going to it because I have the time etc. but no sound, the radio part doesn't turn on at all.
  14. My 1982 coupe Deville started bogging out like it's not getting enough fuel or it like chokes itself out. After trying to start it up it would not start. So I changed the spark plugs and wires and car started up again, only to die off after a couple of seconds. So I figured I wasn't getting fuel. So I changed the fuel filter and it started but it runs really rough and shakes terrible. Shut the car off and I noticed smoke out the passenger side window. I looked under the car to see where smoke was coming from and the catalytic converter was glowing red and very hot? Don't know where to begin in fixing my car. Can someone please help
  15. Hello all, I have not made a post on this site before. I hope this thread works here because I can't find a "For Sale" Forum here. I have a 2002 DeVille DHS for sale. It really is only a parts car at this point. The only thing of value is the Engine. Here is the info on the car that I know. 250,000 Mile (Read below about recent engine work) Beige/Gold in Color with the Simulated Soft top Transmission was replaced at about 150K miles but it is throwing the P0741 Code and has recently started slipping. Would trust to drive anywhere.(have dealer ticket showing work done) Head Gaskets replaced in Feb 2016 with only 5K miles put on car since then. (Have Dealer Ticket showing work) Engine leaks oil from Oil Level Sensor and Rear Main Engine is Strong with no hint of bottom end knock Body panels all in good shape with only the occasional door dings. Other items I know are bad: Needs front Struts (does not have ride control on front), Bad front passenger bearing, Bad Driver side CV shaft, Check engine light is on showing the P0741, code for Idle Air Pump, MAF Sensor performance, and Fuel Guage not working. Climate control mode door does not work. The car left me stranded while traveling for work and is currently setting off of Interstate 79 between Erie and Pittsburgh. I live in the Eastern Panhandle of WV. I don't feel like the car is worth me towing back home. Looking to see if anyone in Western PA has a need for a parts car. Engine is solid and would be a good donor for a car with a bad engine. I am pretty sure the car is worth more than what the nearest salvage yard is willing to give me for it. Thanks
  16. Hello I have a base 97 deville and simply need to know what each of the relays in the trunk control I have one small relay center behind the passenger rear seat and bother larger on the back of the drier rear seat ?
  17. There are times when a project loses its luster, becomes too much of a burden to finish, the build time has stretched out too long or the owner has added up the total costs involved and decided it isn’t worth it. Such is the case with this ’55 Cadillac Coupe DeVille. Roger Jetter purchased the rough failed remains. He’d been working on a ’48 Cadillac Sedanet but decided this hardtop could be finished in less time http://dailyrubber.com/one-mans-junk-another-mans-treasure-custom-55-cadillac-coupe-deville/
  18. Junk Box Mike Calvert 1962 Cadillac DeVille Restoration Started in 2015; Lulu lived in a friends barn for 19 years. After a couple of years working on making her mine and getting her home, Its time to start the real work!
  19. Hi Folks, My name is Jim, I'm happy to be a new member of the Caddy lovers club! I'm 54, been a caddy lover since my teens when my dad got his 4th or 5th caddy. In my 20s He came across a beautiful late 60s red convertible with a white leather interior which he slapped some plates on & let me take her for a ride to have my tooth pulled. He neglected/forgot to tell me the brakes were non existent brakes (master cylinder) so I used the emergency brake, made it to the dentist & home! Ever since that & my dad's subsequent Cadillacs I've been hooked on em. I've had 3 or 4 Devilles & I currently own a 97 I've had for 3 years. It has 214,000 miles on it. It was not well maintained, unfortunately. Most Cadillacs are big, solid built cars that have great comfort, quality motors & I feel safe having my wife drive one with our kids in the car. That was a funny post about trading the Caddy in for a Daewoo! I have a 2002 Nubiro that's a piece of, you know. That topic post was from 2004 I think. Anyways here's my situation. My 97 Deville 4.6 Nothstar Y is bubbling over 251-260 degrees. I have leaks in the pressure tank & have ordered a new one. My question to you experts out there is the leaking tank enough to cause overheating due to loss of pressure? I am not a mechanic though I can remove & replace parts, swap motors, etc. but I'm not a cooling system guru! I am concerned it may be a head gasket issue. I checked the exauste pipe, no moisture. Oil & coolant are clean, purge pipe open, water pump ok(replaced last year & removed cover to check), new stat, good hoses. I have not been able to perform a pressure test not have I checked for combustion gases yet. I think it's the pressure tank leak (at the filler neck & at the purge hose) causing overheating & certainly loss of coolant? Can you guys help me out please? Thank you!!
  20. I have a 1990 Deville 4.5L 4D sedan I picked up about a week ago, the car has been garaged most of its life and the mileage just rolled over 101,000. Before I picked up this car I know it had been sitting outside a garage for about 6-9 months, and was filled with bee's. Just before I picked up the car they replaced the distributor, spark plugs and plug wires, replaced the main gasket on the bottom of the transmission, changed the tranny oil, charged the battery, and topped off the other fluids. I have run a few oz of seafoam through the brake booster vacuum line to help clear out the cylinders and what not. The the car runs very rough still, it has a very rough idle from cold start and has very little power at low RPMS. Occasionally while at speed it seems to have power at low RPM's, not too often. It had about 5 gallons of 6 month old gas in it when I picked it up, I added some gas treatment to extend the shelf life of the gas, and filled it up with new gasoline. I think im currently getting about 8 mpg with the way its running, half town half freeway driving. The body and interior are in great shape, and for only 101k miles on it I feel like I can breathe some life into this car and bring it up shape. I pulled the codes off the diagnostics on the console and got as follows: ..e. E30 E32 E52 E98 ..f. F47 .f.f. F47. I looked up a code index and didnt really know what they all meant, maybe you could give me some pointers. I may be American, but this car is Foreign to me. on top of it running very rough It seems to have some electrical problems, The drivers windows doesnt move, and the other 3 windows will only roll down but they will not roll up without gently pulling on them and guiding them up while you hold the button down. It seems to have some electrical drain somewhere, like all the components are getting enough juice. Even the cigarette lighter can only seem to get the lighter to heat up half way. I have disconnected the stereo, as I was told that was draining the battery and it might kill the battery over night. Im new to the forum and was hoping to get some pointers here, thanks!
  21. Hi guys - its been a few months, but I'm having another issue that to me, seems odd, and I'm wondering if anyone has experienced this? I've got an 02 Deville, and the driver's side, front window goes down fine, but when I try to raise the window, it goes VERY slowly for 5 or 6 seconds, and then speeds up to normal speed. I obviously assumed that the motor was getting tired and that it was straining when the most torque was needed, however we've had some rain over the past week, and I've noticed that the window raises at normal speed whenever it rains. As soon as it dries up, it goes back to creeping its way up, and when it again rains, it again works fine. I then thought that maybe the seals were too tight or something, and tried holding back the weather-strips to see if the window would raise normally, but no, it wouldn't. Is there any reason that a motor would work properly when its raining out?? Thanks
  22. Hello, I have a 1997 Deville, 84k miles, beautiful car. It ran great on the test drive, but after getting it home, and sitting overnight, it didn't want to start the next morning. After cranking for awhile, it eventually, and reluctantly started, and ran great after warmup. I did notice that the exhaust seemed VERY rich. I have since replaced the plugs, wires, added seafoam to the gas tank twice, and it has more power, and runs GREAT after starting, however it still doesn't want to start right away after sitting overnight, but will restart just fine once it's been running, or after the initial start. I wondered if, before putting lots of new parts in hoping to correct the starting problem, the coils could be at fault, or, maybe more likely could the ignition control module be bad? Or should I consider something else could be at fault? By the way, the service engine soon light does work, however is not illuminated....but before I did the tune up, it did come on momentarily (twice) before I did the tune up and added the seafoam. Any advice would be helpful, I love this car! Thank you!
  23. Hello , my 99 el dorado recently ran hot at 77000 miles. I don't know how hot and don't know a lot about engines but believe the head gaskets blown , coolant can be seen in the oil . I was told that I could replace the engine with the engine out of my 03 deville that has been deemed un fixable due to electronic problems . It would crank but not stay cranked . The engines are the same so I am told but does anyone know of any other reasons or problems I am going to run into trying to swap these engines ? any advice much appreciated . Thanks !
  24. Hello, I Recently bought a Cadillac deville from a private party and everything was working fine (well except the gas indicator. it wld appear full all the time and out of nowhere the car shut down from running out of gas, but thats another issue for later though) So later on today, in about 4 hrs to be exact, i have to drive 5.2 hrs, so i went to fill up on gas, and as soon as im done pumping and start the car, i get the "Service stability sys" warning and my "ABS" "BRAKE" & "TRACTION CONTROL" lights come and stay on. So I parked and shut down the car, read the little booklet that came with it, turned the car back on since it told me to try that and the message was still there. So i looked online and found a forum that somewhat talked about my issue and it told me to look up the codes and so i did and here's what i got: - ABS : C1214 Current : C1248 Current - IPM : B0419 History : B0429 Current : B1004 History - IRC : U1064 History : U1016 History - PCM : P0463 History : P1617 History - RIM : C0658 History - SDM : B0041 Current If you know anything about this please let me know as soon as possible how to fix it or at least let me know if i should take this trip or not.
  25. I have. 1994 DeVille Concours and it recently turned 132,000 miles. I heard a clicking coming from the Idle air Control Valve after replacing it. I couldn't stop it so I decided to support my local dealer and dropped it off. They fixed the IAC valve and proceeded to flush my power steering system, this is where the trouble begins. I get a call from the dealer and the service advisor tells me he has bad news. "The car seriously overheated he tells me when the car is left idling for a while. I know you won't like this but your car suffered serious damage and may have warped one or both of the cylinder heads when your head gasket blew." He then asks for permission to start disassembling my engine so he can give me an estimate on the fix. I told him "no" , the car is not worth several thousands of dollars worth of work. In the beginning I had mentioned that the car seemed to be running hotter than normal, and what is considered normal? They did not test for carbon monoxide test until after the mechanic had "severely overheated your car". The dealer has decided not to charge me for the diagnostics and the power steering flush. My bill is about $700, why would they be so eager to eat that? The dealer tells me that the car "should" make it home and might be good for A year or two. They said that the blown head gasket isn't bad enough to keep me from driving the car. He suggested that I not drive through any deserts.. In my world a head gasket is either Blown or Not Blown, what is a blown engine to a dealer? 1.What do I do now? 2.Can a head gasket blow allowing combustion gases into the anti-freeze without oil in the antifreeze or antifreeze in the combustion chamber? 3. How bad is this problem? The dealer said I was lucky to go 132k miles without other problems. 4. How do you protect yourself from dealer mistakes? 5. Do I hire a lawyer or what? 6. Is there any fix for this problem? 7. I am a pretty good mechanic and have replaced heads before. Is there a particular place where these engines blow their head gaskets? 8. If I reduce the engine operating temperature by using a good water wetter and maybe a lower thermostat like a 185 and really good coolant. I would also use lower settings for the fan relay driver. 9. Should I try to fix the head gaskets or will they blow again? Any thought or ideas are absolutely welcome. I remember my original dealer telling me that the "Northstar" engines were designed to run hundreds of thousands of miles. As an engineer I believed the baloney as the engine looked good as was strong enough to push my 1994 Seville STS to a 14 second quarter mile. What when wrong? Why doesn't Cadillac protect their image? I bought the STS first and the DeVille second, they are both Northstars What do I do? Help me please!
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