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Everything posted by ampiifire

  1. i put that fire proof "Great Stuff" spray foam all over the hard plastic because that thing was a POS and ripped apart on it's way off (after the like 13 of those little bolts that hold it on. must be for strength..) and wasn't going to pay for another one. no fires yet but i don't think anyone would ever buy this thing from me again next time i'll just duct tape and deal with warmer A/C
  2. i don't know i have ritualistically used lucas on every car i've owned BUT my caddy because some time during the rebuild which comes with an old, beaten down, leaking northstar with shot head gaskets and milk colored engine oil someone told me that the hydraullic lifters don't like lucas and the 5w30 is recommended because it is best able to pressurize those ...iono i believe in the lucas (because of that awesome little display with the gears on every parts counter in america) but if it's detrimental to the lifters (at around 30 dollars a piece times 32 - or worse - the operation of them) i may just forget about the stuff for a few years until the new rings start wearin down to nothing so was someone pulling my leg or can this stuff actually hurt an engine's top end?
  3. because the rentals at these places are free if you decide to in fact return what you use when you are done and you don't have to wait for them to be delivered via ups
  4. that's freekin awesome man. i've spent hours crafting specialty tools that i didn't wanna spend a shitload of money on and i make special places on my garage walls for the ones that work even though i will likely NEVER use them again as for that strut compressor from harbor freight - it'll work for this car because the entire strut comes out in one piece and you just have to fit the thing around the struts as you jack the vehicle from the lower control arm but that looks like a shaky torquing screw and if its another car that you would have to compress the springs on enough to unseat from the frame from i've always had to really crank on the bolts on the tighter springs.. i've never tried one like the one you are looking at but i can see how it might be much easier to position and therefore probably use.. but i have had great luck with something similar to http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan...spring_tool.htm that i rented ("rented" ) from pepboys for like 26 dollars and some shortened bolts from lowes for some of the tight fitting spots they've made it in to. just a suggestion but like i said i've never actually done the work on these ones though i've spent way too much time with my face right next to it all been workin on this project for a long while now - after i get her running, passing emmisions, and blowing air, i need to do the front struts.. let us know how it goes
  5. glad you got the problem resolved and it's great to hear that do it yourselfing only caused you to forget to plug something in and not force you to pay 10k for some scam computer job from cadillac. from the looks of it you spent 10 hours diagnosing something that ended up being crazy simple but whatever.. you would have worked plenty more than 10 hours to pay for those repairs live and learn, though, right? did you ever get that ignition module grounded? the ground from the top of the #1 cylinder head does indeed go to the iggy module.. closest bolt to it, on top of the module before you torque that bolt. purrs like a kitten now but if that isn't grounded and a spark has no where to go if your landlords cables were to become internally damaged or you ran it with them disconnected the spark will go wherever it wants or can.. and it's got leads to the PCM and crank/cam.. i dunno what can happen in worst case scenarios but your landlord has a temper and it's probably worth throwing a bolt over the loose wire to keep from having to deal with him welcome to the boards
  6. wow 100 dollar a piece rotors? what is it we like about cadillacs again? it's kind of a *smurf* to take em off once per wheel let alone twice.. but for 90 dollars a wheel i'm down you do plan on getting them machined before they go on your car right? things at the junk yard aren't always in the best condition and putting warped/scratched rotors in against your brand spankin new pads will wear them out pretty quickly. i only paid 9$/rotor last time i got them turned at pepboys
  7. I just bought a used OEM axle, which is depicted a #1. I'm taking a shot in the dark but I have to figure this out. I think your suggestion sounds like a good possibility. Since I'm 99% sure that the right side is where the popping is coming from, I replace the right Axle first. and this is the spark that ignited the post in question. thought he went and bought the axle from newgmparts.com on a whim sorry for the misunderstanding mac.. didn't quite read the "depicted in" part as well as the rest of the post. i like pictures a lot better than words i guess and i'm a jew so high prices strike a heart string with me
  8. woah woah mike.. sorry about my last post i guess. didn't mean to offend you.. and no, i wasn't discounting your post, i was (if you read it again) saying that it probably isn't his AXLE and encouraging him to look at the other causes of random popping noises while turning. i made it clear that i've never done struts/mounts on a caddy before but that i have also never had a bad mount be the cause of popping, but usually squeeking or grinding when the wheels are turned. looking back on my post, it does seem a bit competitive and maybe arrogant and i apologize if you took it that way but that was not its intention.. i was just relaying my experiences with these problems and what in my (admittedly limited) experience has seemed to take care of the problem behind these particular symptoms. i was trying to save a fellow caddyinfo member money and a bunch of unnecessarilly wasted time and did suggest he look in to the suspension and steering before replacing the entire axle assembly without a guarantee of it actually solving his problem as i thought he bought the one in the link that he posted to illustrate his purchase for like $850 or something without looking further in to it. i guess we can chalk the misunderstanding up to a comedy of errors on my part and i apologize.. but i don't need 4 paragraphs of you eYelling at me to get that i made a mistake. truth is, its hard to diagnose any type of front end noise because the symptoms of a lot of them are pretty much the same. it could just as easilly be a strut mount, tie rod or end, cv joint, or maybe even a cracked out subframe mount or something similar that we wouldn't even think of.
  9. or that.. but on most vehicles i've replaced strut mounts on, you can hear a nice steady squeeking sound through the range of your steering wheel and can see the top of the strut mount moving around if you take the plastic cap off of the top of the strut tower when they/one of them are bad. haven't yet had the displeasure of having to do one on a caddy tho so that may not be something that happens in this car.. but for the love of God save yourself $850, cancel the order, and figure out what's wrong with it before you turn this possibly easy fix in to an 1800 dollar repair! even if you do the work yourself you are going to spend 15 hours mostly heating and freeing rusted bolts and and squeezing yourself under a car and will need an 80 dollar alignment and 50 dollars worth of power steering fluid and transmission fluid. you'd be wasting your money if you didn't check the simple stuff first. if ends up being a tie rod end and your massive investment doesn't fix it, you will kick yourself in the head on the way back from the parts store a week or two from now with a 19 dollar replacement tie rod end and a can of bearing grease oh and if the tie rod was on point and that does turn out to be problematic.. you can avoid having to do an alignment when you are done with the work (provided it's not pulling or too toed in/out now.. check your tire wear) by marking exactly which thread the old tie rod was tightened to before you remove it. use a paint marker available at pepboys or probably any hobby store and just install the new one to that line before you seal it in. jeez.. if i were to save you from two or three more of these, you could buy a lift for your garage
  10. right.. because my cell phone used stay on for 2 or three days and now i have to charge it every night. 40 dollars for a new battery / 1.3 volts of output the battery has = $30.77/volt for litium ion technology x 123 volts this new battery has = $3784.62 a battery when they stop holding that fresh out of the package charge 6 months in. maybe less at pep boys probably not that much.. but i definitely seeing this idea failing. i think the Volt will flop AND be over priced.. all to allow hippies to plug there cars in every night and pay around 70% of the cost in fuel on their monthly electricity statement. still, it's a step forward, but down a road to nowhere. just seems like plug in technology has its limits (as demonstrated by the extra weight one of these cars has to lug around and crazy nazi like milage restrictions that they will have) we need hydrogen. if i come up with a marketable method for cheap hydrolosis.. new caddys for everyone here
  11. bah.. it's a caddy.. they DRIVE THEMSELVES! does suck when the state says you cant sit behind the wheel while it gets you where you need to go though but welcome and congrats on your hand me down of awesomeness. oh.. and you refilled with dexcool i hope and not the green stuff in the trunk?
  12. take the tire off and shake the heck out of the steering/suspension components and see which one moves :] i've seen warn tie rod ends cause this before.. i'd check that first. you can even leave the tire on and try and pop it back and fourth when it's off the ground to check for tie rod problems. if it's not on the outside, follow it tie rod to where it ties in to the rack and pinion assembly and try and shake that one. might be a whole lot cheaper than buying a remanufactured axle which wouldn't necessarilly fix the problem if it ended up being the tie rod end.. ususally if it's a cv joint or something in your driveshaft assembly it'll happen much more consistantly than just when you turn and under heavy acceleration.
  13. yup wait till they liquidate after the govt denys the second chunk of money and buy a new one at the flea market
  14. you can clean the map sensor with carb cleaner if you want to try that.. just give it a good blast and be careful reinstalling it so you don't rip the seal around it. to test it, you can stick a multimeter between the output lead and ground - the output the sensor is supposed to feed the pcm ranges between .5 with low vacuum (i.e. idle) and 4.5 volts at WOT. unless it was giving a much higher reading than that that i don't think it would be the actual source of your problem - just another symptom of it or another problem all together. like i said before.. in order to use that much fuel each injector has to be open the entire time the engine is running, including exaust strokes (making gas vapors come out the exaust) maybe you should try testin the injector cables with noid lights? look for a steady pulse.. if the light stays on when the engine is running or being cranked on any of the injectors, you have a problem. i think pepboys and autozone have noid lights for rent in their arsonnals.
  15. was there a source of the "smoke" aside from your exaust? was it steaming off of your engine or leaking from another joint, possibly where the fuel line hits the filter? if not, it sounds like your pcm caught a nasty spark or maybe have a few exposed sensor wires touching somewhere.. check the front by your fan blades and see if they caught part of your harness. im sure i'm probably wrong but even at WOT on the highway it wouldn't burn two gallons in four minutes.. the instantaneous still reads 8-10 mpg on my northstar at WOT and unless you are going like 240 mph you shouldn't burn 2 gallons in 4 minutes. it seems to me like each injector would have to be spewing max fuel nonstop in to its cylinder to cause that much of a drop in your fuel level. sounds to me like it may be confusing the input from some other sensor with the input from your speed sensor (given the speed fluctuations in park and such)... and if that's the case, god only knows what else it's confused about. i dunno i'm no technician but i'd take the PCM shroud off and check it out real good.. maybe pull the harness off the pcm input where it all ties in and check for corrosion if you don't see any obviously exposed wires. i don't know - even if i am wrong and crazy/stupid, make sure you don't drive it or idle it excessively trying to figure it out if it's sending that many unburned HC's through your cat or you will end up having to replace that and likely your o2 sensors sooner than later after you get this issue taken care of. best of luck to you and if you do get it taken care of please post back - i'd love to hear wtf can cause THIS :\
  16. nah the heating pipes are there.. wouldn't have asked the question otherwise :] it's definitely not the easiest one to replace either. i'd say it ranks fourth easiest to replace.. right after the three you DON'T have to drop the subframe to barely be able get a wrench on.
  17. so i haven't gotten any replies here but since i did search so long for an answer (as with previous threads ) i figured i'd post what my came up at my buddy's dealership's eSI system just in case anyone was looking for the same thing. going out to the garage right now. sounds like a pain in the *smurf* but at least i have plenty more to do aside from that thanks anyways guys and may god's love be with the notion of a bad o2 sensor being the culprit behind my p0300
  18. Well I'm replying off my blackberry and don't know what those codes are off the top of my head but it sounds to me like a kinked up accelerator cable. Open the hood up (and I'm not sure but you may also need to remove the cadillac beauty cover) and inspect the throttle cable for kinks or irregularities. (there are two cables - one for the cruise control and one for the throttle. The throttle is the inner most one) with the engine off pull the throttle control back and fourth and see if anything sticks. If not disengage the cruise control cable by pulling the throttle a bit and unclipping the cruise control cable by pushing foreward. Most likely you are going to need a new accellerator cable but I guess if something is shorting the cruise control circut out maybe its engaging at the wrong time? Ps from now on if that happens make sure you get to the right side of the road and turn the engine off and then the ignition back to on so you can steer! ...oh.. All while not forgetting you won't have power assisted brakes when the car is off Good luck
  19. because i didnt have the foresight to replace it when i was litterally kneeling in the engine bay drilling holes through the exaust flange with the engine out a few weeks ago. got it running and im throwing codes for the rear o2 sensor along with a random misfire [p0300]. i am hoping one will fix the other.. be we shall see. anyways, having a very hard time accessing it because of the two heater core/recovery tank pipes that piggyback the bank 1 valve cover all but completely prohibit access from above. cant seem to get my o2 socket on from underneath either because even though i can touch it, i cant get a thumb up there WITH a finger. has anyone replaced this nightmare before? or does anyone know what the FSM says the procedure is? i am downloading a shop data program illegally (shhhhh) but its going to take like 2 more days to finish the GM cd's. any help before then would be very much appreciated :]
  20. that should be stickied - i can never find em when i need em. im terrible at interneting
  21. depends on the specific code being thrown, nick. find out what code it was (off + warmer on hvac controls with engine off, ignition on). certain codes will point to a specific cylinder or for a specific reason, the p0300 says that multiple cylinders misfire randomly (which is much tougher to diagnose). if it said p0301 or p030x etc it would be the number x cylinder misfiring. could definitely be plug wires.. but if it were it would usually be isolated to a cylinder or two and would likely happen much more than randomly. but if you haven't changed your wires in 12 years you should get on that anyways. tell ya what... get the codes and try and figure it out and meet back here if you cant :]
  22. so... way off topic and all (maybe not for this thread?) but i reaaaaally miss my 75 dollar at guitar center 1970's yamaha g55 nylon string classical. i own four guitars and just cant bring myself to like playing any of the others :\ f*cked the machine heads up (specifically the little gold colored cog that the adjustment knob turns) and cant find either a set of them or a single cog (its a 25 cent part..) and i don't want to ghetto rig an 85 dollar set of heads on to it. if anyone happens to know where to get one of these don't be afraid to let me know.. otherwise i'll find a guitar repair forum and keep my ramblin here to a minimum oh and to the original poster - i was there on my first car on maybe my second or third oil change. i remember going to jiffy lube to correct the problem. they told me they replaced it with my oil change and charged me 3 or 5 dollars no more cresent wrenches on oil soaked, rusted, half way rounded bolts on any of MY cars from now on - live and learn, right?
  23. yes - the previous owner did have the fuel rail swapped under the recall (or i would assume, at least. this was an auction bought car and came with all the perks such as a leaking head gasket and crank seal as well as various electrical problems) a rubber o ring wouldn't deteriorate over time being exposed to high pressure gas? is there a special type for fuel or will my o ring assortment from harbor freight have one that will suffice?
  24. for a 96 eldorado. other than that.. well.. the title and description says most of it. it's not spraying out.. but after a minute or two of running, the fuel will ooze out and fill the negative space in the quick disconnect line. any time there is fuel with the potential of dropping on a hot manifold i feel it necessary to fix.. so dealing with it in its current state isn't really an option because my money says it gets worse over time. but seeing as it is a very slow leak.. maybe there is a way to seal it? like an o ring of types that wouldn't deteriorate in the gasoline? i cant find the rail to filter line anywhere... is there a way to splice a new quick disconnect fitting on the existing line or should i bite the bullet and buy a full line from a GM dealer? i'd really rather not replace the whole thing if it can be safely avoided.. it is bracketed in in like 3-4 places, winds in and around everything in tight quarters, doesn't bend well, and generally seems like kind of a pain in the *smurf* job for such a tiny little leak :\ the link below is to a pic of it.. granted, it's not a great picture, but you can sorta see how the liquid pools in the top (right in the picture) quick disconnect. http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/amp...re/IMG00057.jpg
  25. ya i realize it's a bit different and now that i think about it i can kind of see that it probably wouldn't hurt anything to have the jackets around the combustion chambers flooded so shortly after the car started.. but i read in a couple of places that there was serious danger of air locking the engine and upon closer inspection, the water pump housing is fed by a y pipe connecting the outlet from the heater core and the recovery tank.. i was also worried about getting a strong flow through the heater core. just because i did spend all of that time searching through the bowels the internet to not find a thing, i wanted to have a written record of what i did for the next schmo in my situation :] with the entire system connected aside from the top radiator (cold) hose, i poured about a gallon of dex/distilled mix down the cold pipe holding it skywards. that filled the radiator completely and brought water straight to (slightly past?) the t-stat. while the top whole was open, i siphoned another gallon and a half straight in to the water pump housing until it almost wanted to drip out and connected the hose. cleaned the air purge hole in the mean time and filled the recovery tank to the max. there is still plenty of air in there but i'm confident it will work its way out - and now i don't feel so bad about starting it dry i love this forum and you guys that are here.. i know i don't spend a lot of time here but it seems like whenever i have a caddy related problem caddyinfo.com pops up on google's search. i appreciate everyone's help.. and if the the g'dam thing starts when i get home from work tonight, i would owe a lot of it to you guys
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