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ampiifire

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  • Car Model and Year
    96 eldorado
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

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  1. i put that fire proof "Great Stuff" spray foam all over the hard plastic because that thing was a POS and ripped apart on it's way off (after the like 13 of those little bolts that hold it on. must be for strength..) and wasn't going to pay for another one. no fires yet but i don't think anyone would ever buy this thing from me again next time i'll just duct tape and deal with warmer A/C
  2. i don't know i have ritualistically used lucas on every car i've owned BUT my caddy because some time during the rebuild which comes with an old, beaten down, leaking northstar with shot head gaskets and milk colored engine oil someone told me that the hydraullic lifters don't like lucas and the 5w30 is recommended because it is best able to pressurize those ...iono i believe in the lucas (because of that awesome little display with the gears on every parts counter in america) but if it's detrimental to the lifters (at around 30 dollars a piece times 32 - or worse - the operation of them) i may just forget about the stuff for a few years until the new rings start wearin down to nothing so was someone pulling my leg or can this stuff actually hurt an engine's top end?
  3. because the rentals at these places are free if you decide to in fact return what you use when you are done and you don't have to wait for them to be delivered via ups
  4. that's freekin awesome man. i've spent hours crafting specialty tools that i didn't wanna spend a shitload of money on and i make special places on my garage walls for the ones that work even though i will likely NEVER use them again as for that strut compressor from harbor freight - it'll work for this car because the entire strut comes out in one piece and you just have to fit the thing around the struts as you jack the vehicle from the lower control arm but that looks like a shaky torquing screw and if its another car that you would have to compress the springs on enough to unseat from the frame from i've always had to really crank on the bolts on the tighter springs.. i've never tried one like the one you are looking at but i can see how it might be much easier to position and therefore probably use.. but i have had great luck with something similar to http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan...spring_tool.htm that i rented ("rented" ) from pepboys for like 26 dollars and some shortened bolts from lowes for some of the tight fitting spots they've made it in to. just a suggestion but like i said i've never actually done the work on these ones though i've spent way too much time with my face right next to it all been workin on this project for a long while now - after i get her running, passing emmisions, and blowing air, i need to do the front struts.. let us know how it goes
  5. glad you got the problem resolved and it's great to hear that do it yourselfing only caused you to forget to plug something in and not force you to pay 10k for some scam computer job from cadillac. from the looks of it you spent 10 hours diagnosing something that ended up being crazy simple but whatever.. you would have worked plenty more than 10 hours to pay for those repairs live and learn, though, right? did you ever get that ignition module grounded? the ground from the top of the #1 cylinder head does indeed go to the iggy module.. closest bolt to it, on top of the module before you torque that bolt. purrs like a kitten now but if that isn't grounded and a spark has no where to go if your landlords cables were to become internally damaged or you ran it with them disconnected the spark will go wherever it wants or can.. and it's got leads to the PCM and crank/cam.. i dunno what can happen in worst case scenarios but your landlord has a temper and it's probably worth throwing a bolt over the loose wire to keep from having to deal with him welcome to the boards
  6. wow 100 dollar a piece rotors? what is it we like about cadillacs again? it's kind of a *smurf* to take em off once per wheel let alone twice.. but for 90 dollars a wheel i'm down you do plan on getting them machined before they go on your car right? things at the junk yard aren't always in the best condition and putting warped/scratched rotors in against your brand spankin new pads will wear them out pretty quickly. i only paid 9$/rotor last time i got them turned at pepboys
  7. I just bought a used OEM axle, which is depicted a #1. I'm taking a shot in the dark but I have to figure this out. I think your suggestion sounds like a good possibility. Since I'm 99% sure that the right side is where the popping is coming from, I replace the right Axle first. and this is the spark that ignited the post in question. thought he went and bought the axle from newgmparts.com on a whim sorry for the misunderstanding mac.. didn't quite read the "depicted in" part as well as the rest of the post. i like pictures a lot better than words i guess and i'm a jew so high prices strike a heart string with me
  8. woah woah mike.. sorry about my last post i guess. didn't mean to offend you.. and no, i wasn't discounting your post, i was (if you read it again) saying that it probably isn't his AXLE and encouraging him to look at the other causes of random popping noises while turning. i made it clear that i've never done struts/mounts on a caddy before but that i have also never had a bad mount be the cause of popping, but usually squeeking or grinding when the wheels are turned. looking back on my post, it does seem a bit competitive and maybe arrogant and i apologize if you took it that way but that was not its intention.. i was just relaying my experiences with these problems and what in my (admittedly limited) experience has seemed to take care of the problem behind these particular symptoms. i was trying to save a fellow caddyinfo member money and a bunch of unnecessarilly wasted time and did suggest he look in to the suspension and steering before replacing the entire axle assembly without a guarantee of it actually solving his problem as i thought he bought the one in the link that he posted to illustrate his purchase for like $850 or something without looking further in to it. i guess we can chalk the misunderstanding up to a comedy of errors on my part and i apologize.. but i don't need 4 paragraphs of you eYelling at me to get that i made a mistake. truth is, its hard to diagnose any type of front end noise because the symptoms of a lot of them are pretty much the same. it could just as easilly be a strut mount, tie rod or end, cv joint, or maybe even a cracked out subframe mount or something similar that we wouldn't even think of.
  9. or that.. but on most vehicles i've replaced strut mounts on, you can hear a nice steady squeeking sound through the range of your steering wheel and can see the top of the strut mount moving around if you take the plastic cap off of the top of the strut tower when they/one of them are bad. haven't yet had the displeasure of having to do one on a caddy tho so that may not be something that happens in this car.. but for the love of God save yourself $850, cancel the order, and figure out what's wrong with it before you turn this possibly easy fix in to an 1800 dollar repair! even if you do the work yourself you are going to spend 15 hours mostly heating and freeing rusted bolts and and squeezing yourself under a car and will need an 80 dollar alignment and 50 dollars worth of power steering fluid and transmission fluid. you'd be wasting your money if you didn't check the simple stuff first. if ends up being a tie rod end and your massive investment doesn't fix it, you will kick yourself in the head on the way back from the parts store a week or two from now with a 19 dollar replacement tie rod end and a can of bearing grease oh and if the tie rod was on point and that does turn out to be problematic.. you can avoid having to do an alignment when you are done with the work (provided it's not pulling or too toed in/out now.. check your tire wear) by marking exactly which thread the old tie rod was tightened to before you remove it. use a paint marker available at pepboys or probably any hobby store and just install the new one to that line before you seal it in. jeez.. if i were to save you from two or three more of these, you could buy a lift for your garage
  10. right.. because my cell phone used stay on for 2 or three days and now i have to charge it every night. 40 dollars for a new battery / 1.3 volts of output the battery has = $30.77/volt for litium ion technology x 123 volts this new battery has = $3784.62 a battery when they stop holding that fresh out of the package charge 6 months in. maybe less at pep boys probably not that much.. but i definitely seeing this idea failing. i think the Volt will flop AND be over priced.. all to allow hippies to plug there cars in every night and pay around 70% of the cost in fuel on their monthly electricity statement. still, it's a step forward, but down a road to nowhere. just seems like plug in technology has its limits (as demonstrated by the extra weight one of these cars has to lug around and crazy nazi like milage restrictions that they will have) we need hydrogen. if i come up with a marketable method for cheap hydrolosis.. new caddys for everyone here
  11. bah.. it's a caddy.. they DRIVE THEMSELVES! does suck when the state says you cant sit behind the wheel while it gets you where you need to go though but welcome and congrats on your hand me down of awesomeness. oh.. and you refilled with dexcool i hope and not the green stuff in the trunk?
  12. take the tire off and shake the heck out of the steering/suspension components and see which one moves :] i've seen warn tie rod ends cause this before.. i'd check that first. you can even leave the tire on and try and pop it back and fourth when it's off the ground to check for tie rod problems. if it's not on the outside, follow it tie rod to where it ties in to the rack and pinion assembly and try and shake that one. might be a whole lot cheaper than buying a remanufactured axle which wouldn't necessarilly fix the problem if it ended up being the tie rod end.. ususally if it's a cv joint or something in your driveshaft assembly it'll happen much more consistantly than just when you turn and under heavy acceleration.
  13. yup wait till they liquidate after the govt denys the second chunk of money and buy a new one at the flea market
  14. you can clean the map sensor with carb cleaner if you want to try that.. just give it a good blast and be careful reinstalling it so you don't rip the seal around it. to test it, you can stick a multimeter between the output lead and ground - the output the sensor is supposed to feed the pcm ranges between .5 with low vacuum (i.e. idle) and 4.5 volts at WOT. unless it was giving a much higher reading than that that i don't think it would be the actual source of your problem - just another symptom of it or another problem all together. like i said before.. in order to use that much fuel each injector has to be open the entire time the engine is running, including exaust strokes (making gas vapors come out the exaust) maybe you should try testin the injector cables with noid lights? look for a steady pulse.. if the light stays on when the engine is running or being cranked on any of the injectors, you have a problem. i think pepboys and autozone have noid lights for rent in their arsonnals.
  15. was there a source of the "smoke" aside from your exaust? was it steaming off of your engine or leaking from another joint, possibly where the fuel line hits the filter? if not, it sounds like your pcm caught a nasty spark or maybe have a few exposed sensor wires touching somewhere.. check the front by your fan blades and see if they caught part of your harness. im sure i'm probably wrong but even at WOT on the highway it wouldn't burn two gallons in four minutes.. the instantaneous still reads 8-10 mpg on my northstar at WOT and unless you are going like 240 mph you shouldn't burn 2 gallons in 4 minutes. it seems to me like each injector would have to be spewing max fuel nonstop in to its cylinder to cause that much of a drop in your fuel level. sounds to me like it may be confusing the input from some other sensor with the input from your speed sensor (given the speed fluctuations in park and such)... and if that's the case, god only knows what else it's confused about. i dunno i'm no technician but i'd take the PCM shroud off and check it out real good.. maybe pull the harness off the pcm input where it all ties in and check for corrosion if you don't see any obviously exposed wires. i don't know - even if i am wrong and crazy/stupid, make sure you don't drive it or idle it excessively trying to figure it out if it's sending that many unburned HC's through your cat or you will end up having to replace that and likely your o2 sensors sooner than later after you get this issue taken care of. best of luck to you and if you do get it taken care of please post back - i'd love to hear wtf can cause THIS :\
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