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brmurph

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  1. Like
    brmurph got a reaction from rockfangd in FM signal no longer amplified?   
    rockfangd you were right, it was the head unit.  I removed radio pn 16266916 and installed pn 09354796.  I bought 09354796 on ebay back when you did the write up thread mentioned above (supposedly a rebuilt unit, it looks brand new).  The interesting thing is I have been waiting all this time to replace it because I thought I needed a tech 2 to program the VIN but turned out that was not needed as the unit came unlocked (didn't know that was possible until your post above, live and learn).   Here is a quote from your original thread "the number for the 98 Concours should be 16266916, 09354796 either number will work. The later is the newest number for the unit."   again you were apparently right.  
    The reason I bought this head unit originally was because the tape deck quit working, once FM quit working I had to replace it.  I know I am probably the only one that still listens to cassettes but anyone else have tapes they recorded from early 80's that still work and sound like new (and I live in Texas and keep the tapes in the car all summer :-)?   Can't beat those old Maxell ud xl 2 90 minute tapes.
    Thanks guys for all the help!  
  2. Like
    brmurph got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Bose system aux input   
    I just installed this http://www.discountcarstereo.com/blu-gm2.html  on my 98 Deville, pretty much plug and play.  It turns your system into bluetooth using the CD changer plug (changer will no longer work).   I have only had it for a week or two but so far works great and such an easy install.  
  3. Like
    brmurph got a reaction from BodybyFisher in The Rainsense story   
    Thanks BBF.    Yeah I suppose any of those would work, I just remember all the threads that say to use the special glue and how it has been drilled into our heads on this board over the years to use original parts :-)...
  4. Like
    brmurph got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Air Ride sagging   
    On my 98 Concours the rear suspension would be just fine for short trips but once I got it loaded and out on the road it would slowly leak down until the ignition was recycled.  I was stumped because I thought for sure the compressor would pump it back level on the road but that was not the case.  Once I turned it off and restarted it would pump up just fine and be good for another couple of hours but eventually it would leak down again (sometimes it was intermittent) and of course no codes (dealer kept saying no codes no problem :-(.   Anyway turned out it was the exhaust valve on the compressor intermittently leaking.     The point I am trying to make though is at some point the compressor is not allowed to pump the suspension back up when cruising down the road if it has leaked down.
    good luck. 
  5. Like
    brmurph got a reaction from rockfangd in AC blows out the defrost instead of face vents   
    OK I am calling this problem fixed (been a week with no issues).   It was the Vacuum controller (also called vacuum control valve/manifold) mentioned in an earlier post by I believe rockfangd and also BBF (Thanks for that).   My vacuum has gone from a very erratic 10-20hg to a steady 23 hg.  Its interesting at startup and idle it is only about 13-15 hg other then that it is a pretty solid 22-23 hg (at stop lights and what not).  This tells me the vacuum canister must be doing its job.  

    Here is a link to rockauto of the part I replaced http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acd...rol+valve,7036 . Once you do your basic troubleshooting to verify Vacuum lines are OK and if you are still having a problem I would strongly suggest replacing this valve as it seems to be somewhat common problem, doesn't cost too much and is very easy to replace. To replace it all you have to do is take the passenger hush panel down, reach up and unlatch the valve, remove the vacuum line assembly (unplug it), reverse for the install (had no idea it was so simple until I did it as it sounded like a horrible job to replace :-). I did remove the glove box (also easy) and would probably suggest you do that just so you can see better, I also borrowed the wife's hand mirror (with a base and swivel) so I didn't have to stand on my head to see under the dash. The hardest part was getting the little spring clips off that holds the vacuum block on to the valve (still no big deal). 

    If you do have this problem and you want to troubleshoot I would strongly suggest you get a mighty vac, they run under 50 bucks and it can double as a vacuum gauge. I put my mighty vac in line with the vacuum actuator that controls the flow between the face vents and defroster (also easy to do, the line is under the driver side hush panel) and ran it that way for a few weeks, every time I had the problem the vacuum would drop to 0, then after a few minutes it would bounce back until the next time it failed. If you decide to use a mighty vac this way be sure it is not in direct sun as I laid mine on the dash (in July heat in Austin TX) and I think it blew a gasket as it kind of jammed up, I did get it warranted though. 
    I can't believe I have been living with this problem so long with such an easy fix.   Anyone else like me and rely way too much on these forums for answers :-) .   Before the net I use to just go after problems until they were fixed, now it seems I have to find the problem on the net first and get answers before I tackle them.  I guess I figure if I can't find the answer in the forums it must more work then I want to complete.  LOL       The interesting thing is I found a lot of post with this problem but very few that provided definite answers and hardly any that pointed to this vacuum valve.  Hope this helps others.     
    Thanks again!
  6. Like
    brmurph got a reaction from BodybyFisher in AC blows out the defrost instead of face vents   
    OK I am calling this problem fixed (been a week with no issues).   It was the Vacuum controller (also called vacuum control valve/manifold) mentioned in an earlier post by I believe rockfangd and also BBF (Thanks for that).   My vacuum has gone from a very erratic 10-20hg to a steady 23 hg.  Its interesting at startup and idle it is only about 13-15 hg other then that it is a pretty solid 22-23 hg (at stop lights and what not).  This tells me the vacuum canister must be doing its job.  

    Here is a link to rockauto of the part I replaced http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acd...rol+valve,7036 . Once you do your basic troubleshooting to verify Vacuum lines are OK and if you are still having a problem I would strongly suggest replacing this valve as it seems to be somewhat common problem, doesn't cost too much and is very easy to replace. To replace it all you have to do is take the passenger hush panel down, reach up and unlatch the valve, remove the vacuum line assembly (unplug it), reverse for the install (had no idea it was so simple until I did it as it sounded like a horrible job to replace :-). I did remove the glove box (also easy) and would probably suggest you do that just so you can see better, I also borrowed the wife's hand mirror (with a base and swivel) so I didn't have to stand on my head to see under the dash. The hardest part was getting the little spring clips off that holds the vacuum block on to the valve (still no big deal). 

    If you do have this problem and you want to troubleshoot I would strongly suggest you get a mighty vac, they run under 50 bucks and it can double as a vacuum gauge. I put my mighty vac in line with the vacuum actuator that controls the flow between the face vents and defroster (also easy to do, the line is under the driver side hush panel) and ran it that way for a few weeks, every time I had the problem the vacuum would drop to 0, then after a few minutes it would bounce back until the next time it failed. If you decide to use a mighty vac this way be sure it is not in direct sun as I laid mine on the dash (in July heat in Austin TX) and I think it blew a gasket as it kind of jammed up, I did get it warranted though. 
    I can't believe I have been living with this problem so long with such an easy fix.   Anyone else like me and rely way too much on these forums for answers :-) .   Before the net I use to just go after problems until they were fixed, now it seems I have to find the problem on the net first and get answers before I tackle them.  I guess I figure if I can't find the answer in the forums it must more work then I want to complete.  LOL       The interesting thing is I found a lot of post with this problem but very few that provided definite answers and hardly any that pointed to this vacuum valve.  Hope this helps others.     
    Thanks again!
  7. Like
    brmurph got a reaction from Texas Jim in Cruising along at 87-88 MPH legally   
    I am in the process of getting my 98 Concours with over 180000 miles on it back in descent condition (mostly because it is still my favorite vehicle), some of you have helped me with my front Struts and AC vents recently via other post.   I have put less then 1000 miles on it in the last year or so and probably less then 5000 in the last 5 years.  Anyway it is finally in good enough shape I can trust it to take small road trips and over the weekend we went from Austin to San Antonio via a fairly new toll road called 130 that has a speed limit of 85 MPH.  I am not really a fan of toll roads or these speeds really and this one cost way to much just to drive 45 miles or so but I sure had fun setting the cruise at about 87 MPH and just cruised in style for about 30 minutes with virtually no traffic.  I think this is what this car was built to do, lope along at these speeds with plenty more left .  I could be wrong but I suspect this speed is something unique to just a few states so thought I would share and maybe brag just a little about legally doing 85+ in a vehicle that still gets over 20 MPG while doing this.   
    Have fun!
  8. Like
    brmurph got a reaction from rockfangd in Cruising along at 87-88 MPH legally   
    I am in the process of getting my 98 Concours with over 180000 miles on it back in descent condition (mostly because it is still my favorite vehicle), some of you have helped me with my front Struts and AC vents recently via other post.   I have put less then 1000 miles on it in the last year or so and probably less then 5000 in the last 5 years.  Anyway it is finally in good enough shape I can trust it to take small road trips and over the weekend we went from Austin to San Antonio via a fairly new toll road called 130 that has a speed limit of 85 MPH.  I am not really a fan of toll roads or these speeds really and this one cost way to much just to drive 45 miles or so but I sure had fun setting the cruise at about 87 MPH and just cruised in style for about 30 minutes with virtually no traffic.  I think this is what this car was built to do, lope along at these speeds with plenty more left .  I could be wrong but I suspect this speed is something unique to just a few states so thought I would share and maybe brag just a little about legally doing 85+ in a vehicle that still gets over 20 MPG while doing this.   
    Have fun!
  9. Like
    brmurph got a reaction from BodybyFisher in AC blows out the defrost instead of face vents   
    I can connect my Mityvac directly to the front dash actuator (I believe #8 on the diagram) and it does leak a little but takes a good 20-30 seconds to leak down so I don't believe this is causing the issue.  That being said it should be replaced and I will eventually do that if it is accessible, as for troubleshooting the search continues.   I then hooked my vacuum gauge in series with the vacuum line that goes to the same actuator and drove around to test/troubleshoot.   When the problem  occurs (AC going to defrost) the vacuum at the actuator quickly goes to 0 and stays there for about 2-3 minutes (meanwhile vacuum at the firewall is still in the 15-20 range) then it comes back to 15-20 and works just fine  until the next time it happens.  I don't think this would be a leak in the line or connection as I think that would be more consistent.  This leaves the controller or vacuum harness actuary valve (leaning to this) which is the valve that all the interior vacuum lines connect to and get distributed.  Anyone have any input on replacing these?  Can't tell if I need to remove the glove box or not, if not it doesn't look fun to replace either of these.
  10. Like
    brmurph got a reaction from rockfangd in New struts 98 Concours   
    This project is complete (a few months back) and was successful , I probably made a bigger deal out of it then it actually was (read too many post about problems :-) so thought I would post what I did and the results.  This is more just notes and suggestions then a step by step description.    As a reminder I put in a set of NOS OEM electronic front struts with Moog springs.    If I had to do this again I would try the quick struts from Monroe and bypass the electronics but since I had the expensive factory struts already I had to do the work to put them in.    
    Parts that were bad and replaced while I was in there: Lower control arms (1 OEM and 1 Dorman as OEM was not available for right side), outer tie rod (Moog), inner and outer CV boot on driver side (outer OEM, inner had to use Precision and think I liked it better then OEM, will see how it last), brake pads (Wagner, squealed like hell for first 50 miles but was fine after that), rotors (Wagner), right brake hose (ac delco), strut mount (OEM, expensive but think it was worth it), upper insulator/seat (NLA , had to reuse the old ones, I just turned the insulator a few degrees and reused it, seems fine), lower insulator/seat (OEM), stopper (OEM). 
    I did not mark anything when I the strut assembly apart (probably should have) but I did try to follow the factory manual (which made little sense to me) for the orientation on reassembly.  Whatever I did seem to work fine and as far as I can tell orientation doesn't mater all that much (I could be wrong and just got lucky).  I replaced all the parts on the driver side first, had an alignment done and then drove it for about 1000 miles to verify I wanted to do the other side.  I know most (including me) would say you have to replace both sides at the same time, especially the struts, springs and brake pads,  but it drove fine and I would do it this way again.  I thought at least it would pull to one side during braking but it did not.    Note: I have a lifetime alignment and the shop said two alignments was fine :-). I ended up using the regular strut compressors that all the auto parts rent, they worked OK but it did help to use two sets (actually used 3 of the 4 compressors at one time).  If I had to do it again I would probably try a different type of compressor like BBF suggested above in an earlier post.  
    Conclusion:  If I didn't have to go into this area because of a leaking CV boot I would not have replaced the struts and springs as even at 180,000 miles the originals were still working OK.  That being said I have noticed some differences.  It now corners much better (less tire squeal), it rides much more stiff, at first I thought it was going to be too stiff until I reduced the tire pressure from about 35 back down to 30 (which is recommended).  
    One thing to note on CV boots/joints.  As most of us on this board I like to use OEM parts when possible so I bought the outer OEM boot (only outer is available in OEM), it comes with the compression clamp for the small side (axle side) so of course I had to get the factory tool (off ebay) to install it, I think this was a mistake as it was hard to get the clamp tool centered correctly on the clamp and when I clamped it it became a little off centered (which you can't tell until its too late) and looks like it dug into the CV boot a little, it might be fine but I am now worried it will cause the boot to leak/rip at some point.  Bottom line is I spent more money on OEM boots and tools and preferred the Precision aftermarket boots and they were much cheaper and heavier/thicker material).    Also during clean up  and assembly of the needle bearings (in a race so needle bearings stay put, that was nice)  in the CV joints I did not put them back in the same spots (I mixed and matched) which I am sure some will say is not good but so far no issues.  
    One other thing.  The alignment shop (during the second and last alignment) said I put one of the lower strut bolts in backwards (I didn't know that was possible), because of this he was having trouble aligning it.  His solution was to just loosen the two bolts, make the adjustments and then tightened the crap out of them.  I thought this was a little odd as it would seem pretty easy to turn them around.  Anyway again seems odd to me but I guess it could be the case and wanted to mention it so the next person doesn't do this.
    Hope this makes some sense:-)  Thanks for all the help!..
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