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Everything posted by brmurph

  1. After weeks of having my dad search through boxes of pictures and slides he finally found some pictures of my grandpa building this Cadillac camper, thought some of you might be interested. Also I have reposted the original link as it appears to be broken. We have decided there is too much history to just let this go so we are going to at least take the time to look it over and see if there is any possibility of making it road worthy again. It was run in Minnesota winters (snowmobiling :-) in the late 60's and early 70's and I am affraid the salt might have gotten to the frame, guess we shall see. One thing I found interesting is that 3 of the 4 tires still held air when the contractor (moving our cabin, different story) had to move it (after sitting there since 1974 without moving), thought that was pretty good. Original pics (taken last year) http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii216/brmurph/Camper/ Pics of the camper being built http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii216/b...lding%20Camper/ Pics of the 55 Caddy before it was chopped in 1/2. http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii216/b...0as%20a%20LImo/ Pics of the Camper being used recently after it was built (around 1965 or so). http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii216/b...in%20the%2060s/ Enjoy.
  2. Nope, it was a 75 series limo, my dad road in it before my grandpa cut the rear end off with a torch. We have pictures of it being built somewhere with the rear just sitting there.
  3. The story my dad tells me is that someone was professionally building these Cadillac campers back in the 50 or early 60's, that is where my grandpa got the idea, he figured he could do that .. If you search on google you can find a few more (not many though) but boy are they ugly, I guess I am biased on ours. lol ...
  4. http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii216/b...illac%20Camper/ I debated if I should post this as I know many of you will not like the fact that a perfectly good 1955 Cadillac (75 serious Limo) was chopped in half and a camper built on it but I have been following this forum for 7 years or so now and thought I would like to share this, sorry if anyone is offended. Seems as now was the right time as we may be getting rid of this as I am adding a basement to our cabin (you can see it in the background of some of the pics) and the camper will need to be moved in the process also my dad kind of wants to get rid of it as it is deteriorating and is hard to see that happen to something his dad built. Keep in mind that this was done in the early 60's so it was not a classic vehicle at that time. This was built by my grandfather who passed away a year or two before I was born (I was born in 67) and it has been in the family ever since so there is a lot of sentimental feelings for this thing (so be gentle :-) .. My grandpa had a radiator repair shop and repaired radiators and bicycles from before WW2 until the late 60's, he just finished this camper and got to camp in it one time before he passed away of cancer. We currently keep this up at a property we have in Northern Minnesota and it is still used today by guest when we need extra sleeping space (doesn't run though, has not been started since the early 80's). I can still remember peeking out the front windows in the overhead above the cab back when the speed limit was 70 in the early 70's (was only 4-5 when it was parked for good)... If anyone has any thoughts on how to get rid of this please let me know. I would love to keep it, fix it up and drive it but that is probably not realistic (although still a possibility). One problem is that it has been in the same spot for 30+ years and pretty sure it has sunk down to the frame.. I kind of wonder if it would be worth anything for parts, thoughts?
  5. I just realized I never updated the solution for this problem (I was on vacation and guess I forgot when I got home). Anyway I put a another AC Delco alternator on (while on vacation :-) and that fixed the problem, no problems since. Thanks!!
  6. I touqued mine on my 98 to factory manual specs and two of the plugs were loose 20,000 miles later when I removed them to check compression. Next time I will tighten by feel as I have never had a plug come loose that way.. Have fun.
  7. I remember the guru talking about the limp home mode and how well it worked. I had to ask him if his Northstar overheated and he was in a safe place where he could pull over and have the car towed would he tow it or drive it the 50 miles or less. His response to me was "tow it, I thought that was obvious" :-).. Have fun.
  8. If it will stop more toll roads from being built in Texas I am all for it.. Toll roads in Austin are costing up to $1.50 per mile.. With my caddy on government run roads it is only costing me 2.5 cents per mile (at 25 mpg).. Maybe I am missing something but seems to me the taxes are the better option in this case, excpecially since the profits go oversees for the toll roads (from my understanding :-) ... I will admit the toll roads are great but not woth the price imo.
  9. I say we do whatever we have to to keep the big 3 around. They may not build the most reliable cars but the ones they do build have personality. I can't think of any other industry I would really care if the companys went under but cars are so personal (at least to us old timers), I couldn't imaging not being able to buy an American car.. Don't make me buy an import :-(...
  10. I haven't jumped anyone but I did just get a new garmin 760 Nav Unit. Love the unit but it has problems with my front power outlet as I had replaced the 20 amp fuse 3 times before I gave up and pluged the unit into one of the rear outlets (kept shorting out). It would seem that the fuse was doing its job but maybe somehow it caused the problem with the alternator?? Thanks again.
  11. Thanks for all the detail as always BBF!! I went with the section that said "Troubleshooting Hints This DTC typically indicates a malfunction within the generator. " Replacing the generator/altenator seems to have fixed the problem. Hopefuly I will get more then 13 months out of this one. Thanks again..
  12. I am having an intermittent charging problem that seems to be getting worse over the last few days. For a while once the car was warmed up everything worked fine but now it seems even after the car warms up I am still having intermittent issues. The problem first appeard the day I left Texas but no problems until I got to Northern Minnesota. Now it seems to be fairly cronic but still intermittent (so it is much worse a week later). Some history - The altenator was replaced 13 months ago for the same codes (I think same codes?) with AC Delco from gmotors.com (called them and it is one month out of warranty so no help from them :-( Still love those guys though.. Codes are IPC B1911 - Generator L-Terminal Problem and PCM P1638 - Generator F-Terminal Circuit Messages are - "Battery not charging" and "Service charging system" Voltage is a about 14 when working and 12 when not. So far the battery has not been run down (car still drives) but I have not gone long distances once I arrived in MN. From searching the archives this would most likely be an altenator problem or possibly battery cables. I am thinking it is probably an altenator (even though it is only 13 months old) but since I am traveling and would like to fix it the first time I thought I would check with the board and see if any one agrees. Cables look great from the outside and terminals are clean.. Also reset all connections both at the altenator and battery (did not help).. Thanks!!
  13. I would go ahead and replace it. I have replaced mine twice in 135000 miles. Once was the same issue as your seeing, the other time it just refused to start. Both times it was the wire in the cylinder. Good luck.
  14. Got my second oil analysis back and found the level of additive to be lacking (TBN which includes ZDDP as I understand it). If you look in the attachment you will find two results, the first column is the current results where I used the new formula of 10w30 Havoline as you can see the TBN is very low (.8). Continue on to the 3rd column and you will see that I had more miles (7000 vs 5000) on that test using the old formula of Havoline (more ZDDP) and you will see that I had plenty of TBN left (5.0). I guess the moral of the story is that I should be happy I have to add a quart of oil every 800 miles now that the new oils have the reduced ZDDP otherwise it looks like I would be running out. I guess this is something to note for the older Northstars out there (I wonder what the numbers would be for those that don't have to add oil) not sure exactly what can be done but I have heard that GM brought back EOS (ZDDP additive) recently, I might have to go pick some up.. BTW I still can't figure out why I have low viscosity :-(. OilReports2.pdf
  15. Not really. I just finished my WOT procedures as prescribed by the Guru and just pulled into the garage when the message came on that the engine was hot, within 10 seconds or so it went from idle engine to camel mode (I was suprised how fast it escalated from the simple overheat to camel mode (260 degrees I think) at which point I turned it off immediatly and called the dealer to tow it in for the timecert replacements.. Again that was 35000 miles ago.. Thanks.
  16. That is what I am wondering (expecially since the oil analysis showed no contaminants:-) I am sending in another sample now and will be sure to ask that question. I was using Havaline 10w30 but I just switched to Vavaline 10w30 (yesterday) to see if there is any difference. If not I think my next swtich will be to 15w40 Rotella (should be OK I would think in Texas). After doing some reading on the net I am starting to think that Texas Jim might be right with the valve guide theory, that would explain the good compression (I think) but not the low viscosity :-(. Thanks.
  17. For anyone insterested here is my report from Blackstone Labs. First time I have uploaded a pdf to tihs forum so hopefully it will come through ok :-) oilreports.pdf
  18. None that I notice, the only time I see something come out of the tail pipe is when I haven't done a WOT for a few hundred miles, then I see quite a bit. Thanks.
  19. Drives great.. Very small leak and it just started recently (sometimes a drop or two on the garage floor). No oil light (thank goodness:-) PVC valve has about 30,000 miles and looks clean (no oil), putting in a new one today anyway. Leaky injector is a thought but I would have thought Blackstone laboratories (oil analysis) would have picked that up (might be worth a call to Blackstone), I will double check the report (when I find it).. I guess I thought the oil consumption has been because of rings all this time, now that I see good compression I start to wonder. Thanks!!
  20. I had to replace my blower motor so while I had easy access to the plugs I went ahead and did a compression check. Turns out it was a better idea then I thought as I had two loose spark plugs, loose enough that the plugs were black compared to the others but tight enough that they did not blow out (less then a turn or so loose). The reason I did the compression test is because I am now burning a quart of oil every 800 miles (this motor has always consumed oil but I use to get at least 2300 miles per quart). Not sure but it seems I really started going through oil when the dealer installed timecerts for blown head gasket at about 99300 miles, I now have about 135000 miles. Anyway the lowest pressure after 5 cranks was 180 and the highest was 188 which I thought was outstanding at this mileage. Also the first crank pressure was a low of 107 and a high of 118 (not sure exactly what this says but I have heard its good to check :-). So my question is how useful is this info for oil consumption? Seems odd that I am going through so much oil with such good compression. Could the oil rings be gummed up yet compression is still good? I have been on this board for a while (all the way back to Guru) so I understand the WOT procedure and do it often but consumption continues to get worse. Any chance the loose plugs caused some of the oil consumption? I did have an oil anaylisis done last oil change and the only thing they found that was odd is he said the oil was equivalant to 20 weight oil, I use havaline 10w30 so this made little sense to me but maybe that is the reason for the consumption. Thoughts?
  21. I do have one problem that I need to fix that I must have caused during this repair. I now have a noise when I turn the wheel that sounds kind of like a squeak, I am almost positive it is the SIR coil causing the noise, my guess is it is binding a little for some reason. Before I go back in and take a look anyone have any helpfull hints? Could it be a routing problem on the wires? This noise was not there before I did the repair.. Thanks.
  22. Well this task is finally complete. Thanks Logan, Kevin and Adallak! I am not very good at writting up step by step insructions but I will make a few notes in case it will help anyone else with this repair. First it was not a difficult job but for me it was a little time consuming, being able to split it up an hour here and an hour there helps. What started this project was the message "Starting disabled" "Remove Key" (may not be exact words but you get the idea) and of course the car would not turn over, right away I figured it was a VATS problem. There are two wires for the VATS system that comes with the cylinder assembly, these wires tend to break after being started so many times (this is the second time on mine, hopefully the last :-).. The wires follow all the way down the column to a plug at the base, not too difficult to replace as long as you use the old wire to pull the new one through the column. I checked the codes and was getting IPC B710 and B2750 as well. To me the worst part about this repair is the lock plate removal. I had to remove the lock plate on my 77 Trans Am over 20 years ago and did not like it then and unfortanatly it has not changed a bit, still a pain to get the wire lock ring off and back on... Besides the help from this board I had a lot of help from the links below. Some of the links go in past the lock cylinder replacement to get to the 4 bolts that sometimes loosing up and cause play in the column which you can feel in the wheel (I did that repair as well :-). <a href="http://elcaminocentral.com/article95.html" target="_blank">http://elcaminocentral.com/article95.html</a> <a href="http://www.epiccomputer.com/dale/jeepjunk/tilt/tilt.html" target="_blank">http://www.epiccomputer.com/dale/jeepjunk/tilt/tilt.html</a> <a href="http://tss.likeabigdog.com/" target="_blank">http://tss.likeabigdog.com/</a> Edit: forgot to mention that I used mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing greese per one of the above posts recomendations. I am not sure what the best grease to use is for this but I don't really recommend wheel bearing grease as it has a distinctive smell and I can smell it even now after everything is all back together. My wife says she can't smell it so it can't be that bad but I would use something else next time.. The factory manual just said lithium ( which is wheel bearing greese ) or sythetic grease.. On the plus side the grease really did seem to smooth out the steering (was kind of dry, it needed the grease).. Have fun..
  23. Thanks Logan!! Actually the steering wheel is back on. On mine there are two wires for the horn coming from the air bag assembly, one has a long spring (kind of like an in-line fuse) that was easy to connect, there is another wire ( tide to the first wire) that is the one I was having trouble with. The only thing that made sense to me was to stick it in one of the holes used for the steering wheel puller. This seemed to work well although seemed odd. I hope that was the right place to put it because I could not find any other place. So far the horn works fine :-)..
  24. OK just about have this thing back together but have one stupid question left. I am installing the air bag but can't seem to find where the ground for the horn plugs into. I assume it plugs into the wheel somewhere but can't seem to find it. Thanks.
  25. You could be right. I bought two keys last week from these guys and so far I have not received the keys, also emailed and asked for a tracking number and no reponse. Certainly can't recommend them yet :-)
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