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Everything posted by brmurph

  1. I finally found an independent cadillac mechanic that can fix my oil pan/manifold leak (not including half case). He basically said if all goes well he should be able to fix the leak for a little over $1000.00 but if the bolts start striping it could run closer to $2000.00. He said basically if the bolts strip he will have to pull off the 1/2 case anyway and reseal it as well as those are the bolts that strip (best I could understand anyway). Does this make sense? All the time I have been following the cadillac boards I don't remember anyone saying the oil pan leak repairs were so unpredictable? Thanks in advance.
  2. I thought about picking one of these up. Any personal experiance with these? Do they work pretty well ?
  3. The dealer installed a life time guarantee AC compressor on my 98 Deville and apparently added dye as I have a leak and see the dye (with a black light) all over the compressor (so hoping to get a free replacement :-). I also see a very light trace of dye around most of the AC lines (and some other parts of the motor) as well. For those that use dye is this normal or do you think I most likely have multiple leaks? Its light enough that I originally did not see any dye from the top with a quick look but upon a second closer look I did see the trace of dye (again with the black light). The compressor leak is obvious as you can see the dye pretty thick. Thanks in advance.
  4. Not in this thread but I have heard about it in the past. The parking brake works fine so I kind of ruled that out. Also the problem occurred when the vacuum was in the normal range so I have kind of ruled vacuum out as a cause. Thanks though! I would like to mention again that this is a Concours so the climate control is like the older STS and Eldorado's and not like the standard Deville.
  5. I have looked at the vacuum lines and they seem to be OK. From my research the next things to check would be the vent door actuator and the vacuum control solenoid. Anyone know how to access these two things? Are they hard to get to? Thanks.
  6. Well it would have been Wapner back in the day, now it is that good looking judge, can't remember her name but it is not Judge Judy :-).
  7. Thought it was interesting that today on Peoples Court a gentleman was suing a lady for selling him a 2000 Deville that over heats. He brought it to a mechanic who replaced the thermostat to no avail (unfortunately as we know). He then took it to Cadillac and they of course told him to replace the motor or $5000.00 to fix existing motor. The defendant/seller had replaced the radiator a few weeks before she sold the car. Anyway we all know it is most likely the head gasket issue, too bad they don't know there are folks out there fixing this problem cheaper. Of course the Judge sided with the seller as it was an as is sale. Just thought it was interesting :-).
  8. Agreed and I am sure your right but it doesn't seem to be effecting the vents (in my opinion). I am assuming you would disagree and you may be right, I will take a look at those lines soon. The other thing the above data means to me is if there is a leak it is most likely in the climate control area (which I really don't want to go into if I can help it, or at least not until I have more confidence that is where the problem is :-) since it is only when the climate control is on that the vacuum goes a little low. Thanks.
  9. I guess I should have mentioned it but I have kind of ruled out a vacuum problem based on the data I posted above (unless someone sees something in the data that I don;t). My question now is what else could cause the AC to blow out of the defrost temporarily besides vacuum? Any other thoughts?
  10. Here are my results from a vacuum check. BTW I added a tee into the system and put the gauge off that so the climate control is included in the test. At idle I would get about 15-18, it seemed to be a little less with the air conditioner on (15 range) but I think still acceptable. I then took a page from the Guru by taping the gauge to the windshield and driving around for a week waiting for the failure. What I found is with the climate control off and cruising down the road the vacuum was a very solid 20 (by solid I mean it did not fluctuate but just an inch or two either way regardless where the throttle was (uphill, downhill, starting, stopping, etc). With the climate control on and AC on the vacuum did fluctuate a bit more from a low of about 10 to a high of about 18 (it seemed to stay around 14 most of the time). Seems that the climate control system maybe leaking vacuum a little but not enough to cause problems (that's my thought anyway)? Things to note: 1. At one point going up a hill with the AC on the gauge did get down to just 3-4 just for a second or so but the AC never missed a beat (continued blowing out the face vents). . 2. I had failures occur when the vacuum was at its highest and I had absolutely no problems when the vacuum was at its lowest. 3. After shutting off the car it would take about 30 minutes for the vacuum to drop to 0 with the climate control system set to off. With the climate control on it took maybe 15 minutes to go to 0 after I shut the car off. Thanks in advance.
  11. Yeah those are the codes. I could be wrong but since this is a vacuum actuator and not electric I doubt it will set a code. The battery gets replaced every couple of years and the alternator about every 3 :-). Currently I think the electrical system is working OK.
  12. Yes it did seem to stick to my finger. I'll get my gauge back and report the results. BTW can you elaborate what kind of vehicle you were working on and if it was a Northstar give me a little more details like where the partially plugged port is ? Is it an easy check ?
  13. I have a few history codes, nothing current. IRC1780, B0856, B1983 . I don't think any of these are related but I could be wrong (had trouble finding code definition on some of these codes). My vacuum gauge is loaned out so I will have to verify that later but I did pull apart the connection you suggest and I can feel a vacuum (not sure if it is enough or not). I also pulled the same connection about 20 seconds after I turned the car off and there was still vacuum (which suggests to me no real big leaks :-).
  14. I have a 98 Concours that the cold AC starts blowing out the defrost vents intermittently even though I have it set for the face vents. This has been happening for a few years but now seems to happen multiple times in a short drive. My first thought of course was a vacuum problem but I have some what ruled this out as the problem never seems to happen when I do a WOT when I think vacuum should be at its lowest and I have had it happen during deceleration when vacuum should be at its highest, also the emergency brake release works fine. Keep in mind the Concours has the sporty dash like the 97 and older Sevilles. Thanks in advance..
  15. Yeah I am actually using the high mileage oil. Thanks.
  16. These are great prices, I wish I had someone in Austin that could do it for that. I will consider dropping it off on my next trip from Austin to MN. Thanks again!
  17. Does anyone know is it possible to replace just the oil pan gasket by removing the trans and leaving the motor in the car ? If this is an option I might be willing to try it myself.
  18. Yeah your right and I have already done this to some extent. I called North Texas performance as well as Carroll Custom Cadillac both in Dallas and both great guys to talk to but just can't justify the $1500-$2500 this repair will cost. I assume barczy01 is in that price range as well? I have heard of folks getting this repair done for around a grand which I would pay but any more then that and I think I will look for a newer DTS (heck you can pick up low mileage for 5-7 grand). I have a cabin in Northern Minnesota and have even thought about bringing it to Jake's shop in Canada (Northstar Performance) but again hard to justify I think. If I had all the time in the world I would probably bring it to Jake as I think he was sealing up the bottom end for around a grand at one time.
  19. Yeah I agree with what is being said as the top of the 1/2 case seems good (it was sealed at 30,000 miles by Cadillac). No leaks until I start the motor then it starts leaking pretty bad right at where I believe the oil manifold is (top of oil pan). Oh and I did try to tighten the oil pan bolts a couple of years ago, I don't think it helped from what I can tell (maybe made it worse). I am in Austin Texas where I can't seem to find any Northstar mechanics.
  20. I use to read this forum every day for years and I don't remember this question being asked but maybe it has. I de-greased my motor so I could try and find my leaks, I was surprised when I found 4 separate leaks coming from the front of the oil pan. Withing about 5 minutes all 4 leeks were dripping on the ground. This car is a 1998 Concours that I have had for 12 years and love the car but there is now enough wrong with it that I don't want to spend the couple of grand it would take to fix these leaks correctly. Has anyone tried cleaning the leaking areas real well and put in some kind of sealant just to slow them down some? Do you think it would work? I really don't care if it leaks a little but it is so bad now that I don't think I should drive the car any more :-(. BTW what happen to BBF ? Did he change his name again :-)? Thanks in advance.
  21. You can get a new one for a resonable price here https://www.arnottindustries.com/part_CADILLAC_yid6_pid35_gid749.html . They claim to be OEM .
  22. I agree, it has always been a dream of mine ever since I was a little kid to get this back on the road. Next step is to see if I can find a covered place to keep it in Austin and have it shipped down (may have to build a new garage :-) ...
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