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brmurph

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Everything posted by brmurph

  1. I started looking at something like that but there is still no way to set the torque spec on the top strut nut. I finally was able to get this completed by wrapping a piece of rubber around the strut shaft and hold it with 2 vise-grips then hold the strut mount so it would not turn all while using the torque wrench :-). So now everything is back together hopefully the way it is suppose to be. I do still have one concern though, when I try and turn the strut mount it takes a bit of force (can't do it by hand) and it squeaks. Does that sound normal? I had to have a strut mount replaced years ago because of squeaks going over bumps so I might just be paranoid.
  2. I Was able to use an impact and get things tight but I don't see anyway to torque the nut unless I can release the spring compressors and then torque it? Is it easy to get the nut too tight from the impact?
  3. OK I had to use two sets of spring compressors but I think I have it all back together. The spring is still mostly compressed and now I am wondering the best way to tighten/torque the top strut nut without the shaft spinning? The manual states to hold the shaft with some sort of t50 torx tool but I don't see how you could get a socket on it to tighten it. Any suggestions?
  4. Thanks guys. BBF hope you feel better soon.
  5. I do have the factory manual but still having some trouble and of course I did not mark anything when I took the old assembly apart. I may have to take it to the shop as you suggest but that is hard for me (seems like I am giving up :-). That being said a wall mounted spring compressor sure looks easier then the one I am using http://t3.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcS_ek__N376s6OpkbvwYmjx42DokIZfudO2R5Qt43U886WcebmQ&usqp=CAY , although it did work to get the old one apart. The only thing in the factory manual that has to do with reference is "Ensure that the flat on the upper spring seat faces out from the centerline of the vehicle. When you mount the spring seat in the strut compressor ensure the spring seat faces the same direction as the steering knuckle mounting flange. If the bearing had been removed from the upper spring seat, install the bearing into the upper spring seat in the same orientation as it had been. Also install the bearing in the spring seat before attaching to the strut mount."
  6. I am finally getting ready to reinstall the strut assembly (strut, spring, mount, basically creating a quick strut). I have never done this before, is there anything that I should be aware of so I don't screw it up (like spring orientation on the old insulators or what not)? I will be using mostly new parts where I can, I think the only old parts will be upper insulator and dust boot/bellows for the strut shaft. If anyone happens to have the order of assembly that would be great as well. Thanks.
  7. Boy that is a tough one, that is similar to the price I paid for mine (again years ago) on EBAY. His rating is good (99.3% Positive feedback with almost 12,000 transactions) so I would be tempted but certainly understand if you decide to pass.
  8. The Guru use to say what kind of parts do you want to buy, factory that have been spec'd and "tested" to work specifically for your vehicle or buy aftermarket parts that have been spec'd but not tested. It might be just me but I have had enough issues with aftermarket parts that I really don't want to use them unless I have too and this is coming from a former parts guy (aftermarket) for 7 years. Not saying I am right just my opinion :-)..
  9. I had to do this on my 98 Concours. At the time (probably 7-8 years ago) I bought an OEM pump with the sending unit off Ebay for a very cheap price. It fixed the problem and I have had no problems since. Today I am a little more nervous about buying off Ebay as who knows what kind of parts your actually getting, you hear about the cheap Chinese crap with OEM lable. Also the OEM stuff use to be cheaper on Ebay now it seems they are asking the same price as the dealer. Anyway I thought dropping the tank was a pretty easy job, the toughest part was removing the ring that holds the pump in. I bought the actual tool to remove this ring (any excuse to buy a new tool :-) and it didn't work at all for me (kept slipping off), I ended up using a brass punch and hammer which worked fine. Good luck.
  10. Yeah I think so. LOL I had greenish color grease flung around on the outside of the boot, I thought for sure I would be able to see the tear in the boot but I have the shaft out and still can't really see the tear. I can only assume it has small tears all around it and at high speed the grease must have pushed out. So you see my dilemma, go with a used shaft (which seem to be available for about 50 bucks) or go with a (what I call cheap) aftermarket boot. Since the outer boot is still available I guess I could go with a used shaft and just replace the outer boot. I just hate doing things twice so I am trying to avoid that.
  11. 1998 Deville Just found out the inner OEM CV boot is no longer available (along with most other parts for this vintage :-(. What are you guys using other then junkyard? Are there a few aftermarket brands that are close to the quality of OEM? I haven't heard good things about aftermarket boots and worse things about the complete shafts.. Thanks in advance...
  12. That makes me feel better :-). Thanks.
  13. Thats a good point thanks. Another odd thing about these struts is that the bolt holes for the brake and electrical mounts are not threaded. Probably not a big deal as I have a tap set but I am started to think these are factory seconds LOL. Anyone else had to tap their new OEM struts?
  14. I have some NOS electronic (the expensive ones) oem struts that I was about to install on my 98 Concours but when I took them out of the box and released the keeper the shock piston did not shoot out like I expected. They do extend about 1/2 way (slowly) then stop. When I move the the struts by hand they seem to move amazingly free (a little better then the old ones but not much). To be fair I haven't really felt a new gas filled shock/strut in years so maybe this is normal? I hate to not use them as they are hard to find and very expensive when you can. Can anyone who is familiar with new struts give me any guidance on if I should go ahead and install them? Thanks!
  15. I have a 1998 deville and have fought the po300 twice. First time new plugs and wires (even though they were not that old) fixed the problem. Be sure to use AC Delco wires (lifetime warranty) and plugs. Last time turned out to be a coil. I was able to use an inductive timing light to see which plug was misfiring (it was very obvious), the plug was torn up so I replaced it then swapped coils to see if the miss moved, it did so replaced the coil. Each time I was sure it was something more LOL. I also found out that coils going bad are pretty common on these vehicles. That being said the car went from running great to barely running, I believe you said your vehicle runs ok. Hope this helps.
  16. Thanks Jim, I did go check it myself at the dealer and here is what I found. The tech over filled it by at least 1/2 a quart and it could be a full quart so in my opinion what they were calling 2 quarts low was really 1 quart low max. He may have added 2 quarts but they will never convince me it was 2 quarts low. According to the service adviser they just want to get this documented in case there is an oil consumption problem that needs to be addressed. So bottom line I no longer feel it was vindictive in any way. In my opinion it was just a careless technician that wanted to find a reason for the rocker assembly issue and added two quarts of oil then told the service advisor it was two quarts low. Frustrating but oh well like I said so far they said they will cover the repair. I do have an old 98 Deville Concours (have owned it and been on this board for 13 years). In fact I have it at the dealer right now looking at the AC compressor and the rear shocks which both have been replaced and are supposedly covered by GM lifetime warranty (wish me luck on this one :-). It has the expensive electronic shocks which are no longer available so it should be interesting to see what happens, my understanding is if they don't have the parts they are suppose to refund the repair (about $1800.00). Thanks again..
  17. I have an 09 Dodge Journey that is making a ticking noise, dealer says it is the rocker assembly and will replace it under lifetime powertrain warranty (looks to be common problem on the 3.5 motors). Odd thing is the service writer stated that the car was 2 quarts low on oil. This is odd because I just changed the oil withing the last 500 miles (in fact I changed it early to see if that would help with the noise) and I checked the oil level the day I brought it into the dealer, it was 1/2 way between add and full. So unless something very odd happened in the 1/2 mile drive to the dealer they are lying to me and I can't really figure out why? In my opinion if they really felt it was 2 quarts low why would they repair it under warranty (I would call that negligence unless of course it had a 7 quart sump, which it does not :-). The only other thing I can think of is they are trying to set me up to decline a future warranty claim. I am sure Chrysler would love to get out of these lifetime powertrain warranty's they offered. Thoughts?
  18. Thanks guys. Problem fixed. I did check the ground to the module bracket again but also at the same time hooked up an old inductive timing light (do they even use these any more :-) and it was pretty obvious I had a problem with fire on both #5 and #2 and luckily they came back to the same coil. I swapped the coil with another one and the problem moved so I replaced the coil with a new one and all is running fine now. BBF good to hear from you, is it just me or where you MIA for a while :-). Thanks again!
  19. 1998 Deville Concours Compression test shows between 180-205 psi Throttle body cleaned less then 10,000 miles ago. First symptom was a ping in the exhaust when engine was off (recently started, unburned fuel?), after about 400 miles of this (car was running great BTW) it suddenly started missing real bad, I wasn't sure I was going to make it home but I did. I also got the infamous PO300 (multiple misfire) from my code reader as well as the onboard diagnostics (been told if I had a better reader it might have told me which cylinder). When I pulled the plugs I found plug #5 was not only carboned up but also had 1/2 of the porcelain around the center electrode missing (I assume from being too hot?). I replace plugs and wires which has fixed po300 for me in the past, although the miss is much better it is still there at idle and while driving. The PO300 hasn't come back as of yet but I now have a "CODE P1376 IGNITION GROUND CIRCUIT" which of course I messed with while removing the coil pack. I cleared this code and so far has not come back but I will check it and make sure its tight (I did clean it some when re-installed). So I am thinking I have fixed the symptom by replacing the bad plug and wires but the actual problem is still around :-(, I am thinking either fuel injector or coil but it seems it could be a lot of other things as well. BTW the cylinder that had the broken porcelain on the plug also had the highest compression (205 psi). The bad plug has me confused as the broken porcelain tells me it ran too hot but the carbon tells me it wasn't firing (just my thoughts, could be wrong). Thoughts? Thanks in advance Brian.
  20. Rockfangd yes once it starts it doesn't seem to fail until the car has been off long enough to cool (like the next day). Jim That anti-slugging feature is also in my manual (oem) but seems to turn the compresser on temporarily, that being said I suppose some where in that part of the circuit could be failing and not allowing it to start (interesting to say the least). I just went out and started it with the AC on and let it idle for about 15 minutes, the compressor never came on (ambient temperature over 90). I then put it in gear to drive around the block and within 30 seconds of driving the compressor came on and worked just fine. After the test ride I swapped out the FP and compressor relay, guess we shall see tomorrow when I start it if that effected anything. . Thanks for the help.
  21. 1998 Deville (concours), just had the oil manifold/pan gasket replaced, new front stabalizer bar (old one bar broke if you can believe that) and AC charged. I am very happy with the repair and all was working great for the first week or two but now all of a sudden the AC compressor doesn't turn on until after the car has been running for a few minutes, once it starts running it continues to work fine until the next time the car is started. Once the compressor starts the AC is about as cold as it has ever been (gets down to 47 degrees or so, before the repair 50 was about as good as I could get). There are no HVAC related codes current or history. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance. Brian
  22. Yes the lower bearing case was redone under warranty at 30,000 miles, not sure if they used impacts or not.
  23. Thanks barczy01, I am in Austin TX. When you quote a reseal job like this do you feel comfortable you can keep the quote or does it often increase once you get into the project?
  24. OK Thanks, that is kind of what I was thinking. I really like the guy but hard to go ahead with the work when the estimate is from 1100-2300 depending on what he finds. Guess I might wait a little longer.
  25. "Some of the oil manifold plate bolts are what retains the lower case" Yeah that is what the mechanic is saying and he said there is a resonable chance that they will strip excpecially since the lower case half has already been sealed in its lifetime (in fact we think maybe he did the work years ago at the caddy dealer when he used to work there :-). My reason for not doing the lower case half is because it was already done (although 140,000 miles ago) and isn't leaking, also I was hoping to get this done for just over $1000.00 but he seems to think 1800-2300 is more likely where it will be if things start to strip. He said won't know until he starts putting it back together.
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