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brmurph

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Everything posted by brmurph

  1. I have a leaking charging port on the dryer and will be replacing the dryer, orifice tube and recharging. I have a shop that has offered to evacuate the system for free (thought that was pretty nice) and I will be changing the parts and recharging it myself (using a manifold set) but have a couple of questions. 1. How much Pag oil to put in? I know the book says the accumulator holds 3 oz, should I just add in 3 ounces and call it good or should I try and measure the oil that is in the old Dryer and if so how do I do that (just pour and measure)? Do I need to worry about adding more then the 3 oz the dryer holds. 2. Best way to add the oil? Should I just poor it into the dryer and if so does should I add it on the input or output? 3. System holds 2 lbs of R134, Short of buying a scale (which I really don't want to do) how do I put exactly 2 lbs in (I have heard R134 is more picky a bout this then R12 was)? 4. Tricks to get the AC as cold as possible? Any other suggestions for someone who has not done a full charge in 30 years (and that one didn't work that great, not too cold) would be appreciated. BTW Autozone ( I know not my favorite auto store for parts) has the gauges and vacuum pump to loan.
  2. Anyone else having trouble getting to the home page (caddyinfo.com) ? Looks to be down to me.
  3. OK I am calling this problem fixed (been a week with no issues). It was the Vacuum controller (also called vacuum control valve/manifold) mentioned in an earlier post by I believe rockfangd and also BBF (Thanks for that). My vacuum has gone from a very erratic 10-20hg to a steady 23 hg. Its interesting at startup and idle it is only about 13-15 hg other then that it is a pretty solid 22-23 hg (at stop lights and what not). This tells me the vacuum canister must be doing its job. Here is a link to rockauto of the part I replaced http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acd...rol+valve,7036 . Once you do your basic troubleshooting to verify Vacuum lines are OK and if you are still having a problem I would strongly suggest replacing this valve as it seems to be somewhat common problem, doesn't cost too much and is very easy to replace. To replace it all you have to do is take the passenger hush panel down, reach up and unlatch the valve, remove the vacuum line assembly (unplug it), reverse for the install (had no idea it was so simple until I did it as it sounded like a horrible job to replace :-). I did remove the glove box (also easy) and would probably suggest you do that just so you can see better, I also borrowed the wife's hand mirror (with a base and swivel) so I didn't have to stand on my head to see under the dash. The hardest part was getting the little spring clips off that holds the vacuum block on to the valve (still no big deal). If you do have this problem and you want to troubleshoot I would strongly suggest you get a mighty vac, they run under 50 bucks and it can double as a vacuum gauge. I put my mighty vac in line with the vacuum actuator that controls the flow between the face vents and defroster (also easy to do, the line is under the driver side hush panel) and ran it that way for a few weeks, every time I had the problem the vacuum would drop to 0, then after a few minutes it would bounce back until the next time it failed. If you decide to use a mighty vac this way be sure it is not in direct sun as I laid mine on the dash (in July heat in Austin TX) and I think it blew a gasket as it kind of jammed up, I did get it warranted though. I can't believe I have been living with this problem so long with such an easy fix. Anyone else like me and rely way too much on these forums for answers :-) . Before the net I use to just go after problems until they were fixed, now it seems I have to find the problem on the net first and get answers before I tackle them. I guess I figure if I can't find the answer in the forums it must more work then I want to complete. LOL The interesting thing is I found a lot of post with this problem but very few that provided definite answers and hardly any that pointed to this vacuum valve. Hope this helps others. Thanks again!
  4. Thanks rockfangd. I have reviewed the isimple a little and I guess I should go ahead and try it but with no feed back (like name of the song or artist) from the ipod to the head unit it would seem a little comber sum if you had a lot of music loaded on the ipod. Apparently some hook the isimple to the head unit itself and then keep the ipod in the vehicle with them which would allow you to view the screen and even control from the ipod if you wanted (at least that is my understanding). Is this also your understanding on how it works?
  5. Never mind. I messed up the elevator (at least that is what I am going to call it) so it won't really work at all now. So now the question is does anyone have any recommendations for an MP3 player that will plug and play into the CD cable in the trunk?
  6. Pretty sure the trays are inserted correctly, its been a while since I have used it but I am following the arrows into the cartridge and everything seems smooth, I have two cartridges and they are both doing the same thing. The trays and cartridge themselves are working as expected, it is the CD that won't let loose from the optic on ejection or while moving to the next disk (it will try to load two disk to the optic because the first one did not drop back to the tray). One thing I just noticed is that the optical does finally release the CD but it is after the cartridge (and tray/trays) are ejected from the player. It seems to let go of the CD when it wants and not when the tray needs it :-(.
  7. 1998 Deville with the Delco 12 disk cd exchanger. I have it apart and it is hooked up to 12 volts for bench testing. I can tell that there are a couple of levers that are suppose to push the CD off the optical and back onto the CD tray, the levers seem to be working fine but the CD gets stuck and I have to help the levers with my finger to get the CD to go back into the tray and then to the cartridge (works fine if I do this but not practical once it is back together :-).. So either these levers (springs) are getting weak (which I don't think is the case) or for some reason the CD is getting stuck to something when it is out of the tray and being read by the optical. The problem happens every time (not intermittent). Anyone still familiar with these old units that has run into this before?
  8. Yep thats the toll road I was talking about. I remember when they ran that CTS-V down the toll just before it opened. That has to be the exact same stretch I ran.
  9. BBF I knew your 96 finally gave up but I never heard why? What was it that finally did it in? Engine I assume?
  10. I am in the process of getting my 98 Concours with over 180000 miles on it back in descent condition (mostly because it is still my favorite vehicle), some of you have helped me with my front Struts and AC vents recently via other post. I have put less then 1000 miles on it in the last year or so and probably less then 5000 in the last 5 years. Anyway it is finally in good enough shape I can trust it to take small road trips and over the weekend we went from Austin to San Antonio via a fairly new toll road called 130 that has a speed limit of 85 MPH. I am not really a fan of toll roads or these speeds really and this one cost way to much just to drive 45 miles or so but I sure had fun setting the cruise at about 87 MPH and just cruised in style for about 30 minutes with virtually no traffic. I think this is what this car was built to do, lope along at these speeds with plenty more left . I could be wrong but I suspect this speed is something unique to just a few states so thought I would share and maybe brag just a little about legally doing 85+ in a vehicle that still gets over 20 MPG while doing this. Have fun!
  11. I can connect my Mityvac directly to the front dash actuator (I believe #8 on the diagram) and it does leak a little but takes a good 20-30 seconds to leak down so I don't believe this is causing the issue. That being said it should be replaced and I will eventually do that if it is accessible, as for troubleshooting the search continues. I then hooked my vacuum gauge in series with the vacuum line that goes to the same actuator and drove around to test/troubleshoot. When the problem occurs (AC going to defrost) the vacuum at the actuator quickly goes to 0 and stays there for about 2-3 minutes (meanwhile vacuum at the firewall is still in the 15-20 range) then it comes back to 15-20 and works just fine until the next time it happens. I don't think this would be a leak in the line or connection as I think that would be more consistent. This leaves the controller or vacuum harness actuary valve (leaning to this) which is the valve that all the interior vacuum lines connect to and get distributed. Anyone have any input on replacing these? Can't tell if I need to remove the glove box or not, if not it doesn't look fun to replace either of these.
  12. This project is complete (a few months back) and was successful , I probably made a bigger deal out of it then it actually was (read too many post about problems :-) so thought I would post what I did and the results. This is more just notes and suggestions then a step by step description. As a reminder I put in a set of NOS OEM electronic front struts with Moog springs. If I had to do this again I would try the quick struts from Monroe and bypass the electronics but since I had the expensive factory struts already I had to do the work to put them in. Parts that were bad and replaced while I was in there: Lower control arms (1 OEM and 1 Dorman as OEM was not available for right side), outer tie rod (Moog), inner and outer CV boot on driver side (outer OEM, inner had to use Precision and think I liked it better then OEM, will see how it last), brake pads (Wagner, squealed like hell for first 50 miles but was fine after that), rotors (Wagner), right brake hose (ac delco), strut mount (OEM, expensive but think it was worth it), upper insulator/seat (NLA , had to reuse the old ones, I just turned the insulator a few degrees and reused it, seems fine), lower insulator/seat (OEM), stopper (OEM). I did not mark anything when I the strut assembly apart (probably should have) but I did try to follow the factory manual (which made little sense to me) for the orientation on reassembly. Whatever I did seem to work fine and as far as I can tell orientation doesn't mater all that much (I could be wrong and just got lucky). I replaced all the parts on the driver side first, had an alignment done and then drove it for about 1000 miles to verify I wanted to do the other side. I know most (including me) would say you have to replace both sides at the same time, especially the struts, springs and brake pads, but it drove fine and I would do it this way again. I thought at least it would pull to one side during braking but it did not. Note: I have a lifetime alignment and the shop said two alignments was fine :-). I ended up using the regular strut compressors that all the auto parts rent, they worked OK but it did help to use two sets (actually used 3 of the 4 compressors at one time). If I had to do it again I would probably try a different type of compressor like BBF suggested above in an earlier post. Conclusion: If I didn't have to go into this area because of a leaking CV boot I would not have replaced the struts and springs as even at 180,000 miles the originals were still working OK. That being said I have noticed some differences. It now corners much better (less tire squeal), it rides much more stiff, at first I thought it was going to be too stiff until I reduced the tire pressure from about 35 back down to 30 (which is recommended). One thing to note on CV boots/joints. As most of us on this board I like to use OEM parts when possible so I bought the outer OEM boot (only outer is available in OEM), it comes with the compression clamp for the small side (axle side) so of course I had to get the factory tool (off ebay) to install it, I think this was a mistake as it was hard to get the clamp tool centered correctly on the clamp and when I clamped it it became a little off centered (which you can't tell until its too late) and looks like it dug into the CV boot a little, it might be fine but I am now worried it will cause the boot to leak/rip at some point. Bottom line is I spent more money on OEM boots and tools and preferred the Precision aftermarket boots and they were much cheaper and heavier/thicker material). Also during clean up and assembly of the needle bearings (in a race so needle bearings stay put, that was nice) in the CV joints I did not put them back in the same spots (I mixed and matched) which I am sure some will say is not good but so far no issues. One other thing. The alignment shop (during the second and last alignment) said I put one of the lower strut bolts in backwards (I didn't know that was possible), because of this he was having trouble aligning it. His solution was to just loosen the two bolts, make the adjustments and then tightened the crap out of them. I thought this was a little odd as it would seem pretty easy to turn them around. Anyway again seems odd to me but I guess it could be the case and wanted to mention it so the next person doesn't do this. Hope this makes some sense:-) Thanks for all the help!..
  13. If you do replace the module it is super simple to replace (at least my 98 Deville was), took me about 15 minutes and I am slow..
  14. OK guess Its time to rip into it a little more and see if I can do some more testing. I have had the hush panels off before and don't remember seeing any vacuum lines (except for the emergency brake), I'll take a closer look, If all I have to do is drop those panels to test that would be nice. BBF nice find on that old post and I certainly remember when you were going by Scotty but I had forgotten about that thread. I know I have been fighting this problem for a while and when I first opened that old post I thought I had been fighting it for over 10 years (you know how time flys), glad to find that is not the case as back then it was the dealers problem and per the post they got it fixed.. Thanks again.
  15. BBF thanks. How hard was it to get to that? Just pull out the glove box and you have access? Thanks.
  16. Thanks guys. I had the problem again this morning, no air from the face vents for about 3-4 minutes then it came back and worked fine (vacuum was over 15 the whole time). Rockfangd I don't believe the line is pinching as I have a vacuum gauge hooked up on the inside of the car and the problem happens when the vacuum is fine (15-20). The line looks fine by looking at it but good point about temperature and it possibly collapsing in the heat. I have seen the vacuum drop down to 10 (very rare) and have never had the problem, it only seems to happen when it is over 15. Oldcadtech, thanks so much for that pic, it helps a lot. I have the factory manuals but have not found anything that descriptive. You might be right about the # 8 actuator, guess being intermittent and only happening when the vacuum is good is making me think something else. Currently the vacuum is coming from the intake manifold (like it is suppose to be) but during testing I had my mighty vac connected to the emergency brake vacuum line, I had to put it in gear to get vacuum through it but seems to work well for testing, this is also where my vacuum gauge is connected while driving down the road (easy access to vacuum :-). So here are the possibilities as I see it and in the order of most likely. 1. AC defroster actuator 2. Programmer 3. Controller 4. vacuum control solenoid based on this thread . http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/266345-low-vacuum-mode-doors.html Any suggestions which one of these are the easiest to test or replace? I don't really want to take the whole dash apart :-(..
  17. 1998 Concours Note: has center console so the hvac is like the 1997 and older sevilles and 2001 older eldorados Update to this problem but still fighting it :-(. I have had to fix a few problems over the last couple of years to really get this car road worthy again and except for this problem (which is big since I live in Texas) the car is running well (with help from this board, thanks for that). I bought a mightyvac which has been extremely useful and has helped me find a few small leaks. The vacuum (except for maybe in/under the dash) now seems to be leak free and working well. The problem has improved noticeably after fixing the leaks but it still exists and is extremely frustrating when it is 100 degrees outside. Currently the emergency brake is out of the circuit (and still have the problem), I have the mighty vac connected to the output to do some testing. This testing was all done with the mighty vac as I blocked off any engine vacuum. What I found is it only takes about 3-4 (I guess HG) to get the vents to go from defrost mode (default) to the face vents. I can create enough vacuum with the mighty vac (hand pumping) to get the air to blow out of any vent however the face vents was the toughest (it tended to leak out faster then I could pump with the mighty vac) but that was intermittent, at times it leaked very fast (could barely get the gauge to 5 HG and other times it would hold a little vacuum (could get it up over 20). To me because it is intermittent seems to point to either the controller or the programmer as I feel if it was a leak in a line or diaphragm it would be consistent. I am leaning to the programmer as my understanding is that is where all the vacuum connections occur. My concern is I have never read about anyone replacing either of these for this type of problem so I guess I am a little nervous to replace them, anyone know which is easier to replace :-)? One more thing to note is with the car off and the mighty vac connected to the line going into the firewall there are no leaks. Hope this makes some sense. Any experience with the controller or programmer would be appreciated. Thanks.
  18. Never mind I think I found the part number and purchased it off ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/172120522798 Thanks again.
  19. Thanks. That makes sense and is pretty much what it looks like, gives me hope that my case/barrier is still good. Any idea on the part number for the patch kit?
  20. I believe it was an expansion valve they replaced when I noticed the patch. That video looks just like mine and is pretty much how I did it when I replaced the blower a few years back, I did not have to cut anything luckily. For those that are interested if you go to 1:41 on the video and look to the left of the blower and directly behind the coil pack you will see a large flat spot on the cover, that is where the hole I am talking about is on mine.
  21. 1998 Deville Concours. Technically I believe this is called the barrier (outside insulated cover) where the hole is. Years ago the dealer did some AC work on my car and when I got it back there was a hole covered with black goo type tape. At the time I assumed they needed to make a hole for the service work but now I am thinking the case may have just been brittle (as we know they can get) and they did a patch job. This whole/patch is directly above the heater core, can anyone think of a reason they would need to make a hole for any type of AC repair? Also just under the hole in the barrier where the metal case is there seems to be a missing inspection plate ( at least it has two screw type holes and is a symmetrical cut out). Anyone think this is anything other then a brittle barrier and if so suggestions on best way to repair it? Thanks in advanced.
  22. I must have just been tired and frustrated as I got it in this morning by hand (no tools needed). Thanks.
  23. Its about 3 inches if I don't push down on the knuckle and If I push down on the knuckle (by hand) I am just over an inch or so off.
  24. Any tips installing the strut assembly back into the vehicle? I have the strut mounted via the top and am installing the knuckle but the strut seems too tall to install. Do I have to compress it somehow so I can get the lower strut bolts in?
  25. Yeah that should work then as some guys were saying this is the tool to use http://www.autotoolworld.com/Kent-Moore-J35669-Strut-Rod-Nut-Remover-and-Installer_p_148759.html which sounds pretty much like what your suggesting.
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