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Everything posted by brmurph

  1. Most of its life it was mix city and highway, lately it has been mostly city driving. I have always driven it fairly hard and certainly did my WOTs when I thought it was necessary (was doing this procedure when the head gaskets let go around 100,000 miles :-). Let me know if you have any luck on finding the windshield info.. Thanks.
  2. Right now I am running Pennzoil 10w30 but I put the Rotella oil in for one oil change (for extra zdp) and I went from 800 miles per quart down to 400 per quart, I also started getting the dreaded po420 (bad cat). The interesting thing is once I changed back to Pennzoil the cat cleared up and no more po420, and back up to about 500 miles per quart :-). Still a little confused on the windshield, are you saying if I am lucky enough to find an OEM windshield that I don't have to worry about the adhesive as the sensor is already mounted? Can I use any old windshield and mount my sensor on it? And yes I love the Concours :-) Thanks again.
  3. Thanks rockfangd, just to make sure I am understanding you correctly I will need a windshield specific for rain sense (I see that in your original post now)? Also the part number you gave for the adhesive is aftermarket? I found this on ebay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=RSK1229&_sacat=0 , do you think these would work? After 16 years with this car (which I have thoroughly enjoyed at 200,000 miles) it might be time to upgrade to Deville DTS (2003-2005 :-). I hate to give it up but it is now burning about 500 miles a quart as well.
  4. Thanks BBF. Yeah I suppose any of those would work, I just remember all the threads that say to use the special glue and how it has been drilled into our heads on this board over the years to use original parts :-)...
  5. I need to replace my windshield on my 98 Concours, I am a little afraid they will mess up the Rainsense. Any tips and what glue did you end up using (my understanding is you can no longer get the part number required for our old caddies). Thanks
  6. Nice job. So after all your research and hard work am I understanding you correctly that a Bose system will work in place of a Delco system? For example I have a 1998 Concours with the non-bose RDS radio (which I love) can I replace this with any of the Bose or Delco radio from 98-01? Only reason I want to replace it is the tape deck quit working, I have a lot of tapes but that was also used for my AUX out :-).. Also what does the Active Audio do (I am not sure if I have that or not) and can you explain the new AUX adapter you installed from isimple, is it just something that goes on the antenea cable, fm modulator? Thanks in advance.
  7. On my 98 Concours the rear suspension would be just fine for short trips but once I got it loaded and out on the road it would slowly leak down until the ignition was recycled. I was stumped because I thought for sure the compressor would pump it back level on the road but that was not the case. Once I turned it off and restarted it would pump up just fine and be good for another couple of hours but eventually it would leak down again (sometimes it was intermittent) and of course no codes (dealer kept saying no codes no problem :-(. Anyway turned out it was the exhaust valve on the compressor intermittently leaking. The point I am trying to make though is at some point the compressor is not allowed to pump the suspension back up when cruising down the road if it has leaked down. good luck.
  8. Here you go http://s265.photobucket.com/user/brmurph/library/Deville?sort=3&page=1
  9. I have found the higher performance tire you have the less torque steer you will get. I had Michelin Pilots on my 98 Concours for a while and had no torque steer at all. When I bought the car it had some Goodyear white wall tires and it was a little scary off the line.
  10. I have a spoiler on my 1998 Concours, it is very low profile and looks great in my opinion, it has an led light but hasn't worked since I bought the car back in 2002. I don't think I have ever seen another one on the road but they were readily available 10 years ago or so (I would think someone still has some of these but they sure don't advertise them anymore), I have seen used ones on ebay but very rarely anymore. I also have the fender skirts which was pretty rare for 1998. People would give me a hard time about the spoiler on a Deville but I would say it really helps at about 135 miles in hour LOL.. Good luck.
  11. If your not in a hurry you could try ebay and assuming the part numbers don't come back select "follow this search" and it will send you an email if one gets posted..
  12. Wow so confusing :-), thanks all for the great info. I will change back to regular Pennzoil soon and post my results. I haven't heard anyone say that the Rotella should not be used so hopefully no permanent damage. Certainly not trying to start the typical oil thread as I have seen many of them (which is why I wanted to try the Rotella) going back to the guru. Thanks again.
  13. I wouldn't say no leaks but nothing dripping. I was using regular 10w30 penzoil from Walmart it say Api service sn. The Rotella says api service cj-/sm "meets api service cj-4, ci-4 plus, ci-4,, ch-4, Cg-4, cf-4, cf/sm. .. Did I use the wrong Rotella? no additives.
  14. Interesting. You think the intake might tell me something? It probably has been cleaned in the last 20,000 miles or so but not sure why the intake would have anything to do with crankcase oil? Care to elaborate?? I agree about changing back to penzoil. Will be interesting if I can get back to 800 miles per quart. As far as being a coincidence, I agree burning more oil could be but nothing coming out of the tall pipe seems odd, Seems it must be going somewhere. thanks guys.
  15. I guess I would say blue smoke but not real sure.
  16. Last oil change I decided to try Rotella T 10w30 diesel oil (non synthetic) in my 98 deville, the results were kind of surprising. I now burn twice the amount of oil (450 per quart compared to 900 on plain pennzoil) however I no longer see anything coming out of the exhaust at WOT ( I use to see a cloud before). Is all this carbon now sticking to internal parts instead of blowing out? Am I using the right Rotella that has been recommended for flat tapits? Thanks.
  17. Ah OK. Sorry Joel, thought it was rockfand . Was this color specific do you know or did they just say not available (assuming all colors)? I did buy one from the dealer years ago and it has held up better then the originals for sure, I would like to replace the other one at some point but need to get the headliner fixed first :-)..
  18. rockfangd, if you don't mind me asking how much was it for used mirrors? It looks like you can still get new ones for just under $100.00 from gmparts direct which I am considering. Thanks..
  19. Its been a couple of weeks now so thought I would post my final results and note a few things. One thing to note is that the dealer had just put a new compressor on under warranty less then 2000 miles ago, this is probably the 5th one they have put on over the last 10 years or so (I am assuming the condenser should be replaced one of these times :-). I almost brought it back to the dealer as it wasn't that cold and the compressor rattles pretty good but I thought why not try to recharge it and see if I could get it colder then the dealer. The final results are still good, the temperature at the vents average 5 or 6 degrees colder, it now stays under 50 degrees most of the time instead of above 50 (I know still not great but better then its ever been and I have had this vehicle since 2002, also I live in Austin Texas and the outside temp was about 95. It kind of amazes me that I was able to get it colder then the dealer and they have had 5 shots at it. The coldest I have seen since the recharge is 43, previously the coldest was 46 and this last compressor replacement it would not get that cold. . I could not figure out how to burp the hoses without loosing a vacuum using the manifold gauges so I just used my cheap and short charging hose (easy to burp since it did not have a vacuum on it). I could not match any of the new o-rings to the old ones, I even had an o-ring assortment kit but none of them looked right to me so I reused all the old O-rings. I did flush the line as KHE suggested above (from condenser to orifice tube). I moved the vacuum pump from under the hood to the ground, shut off the high side valve (there was some evidence of pag oil being sucked into the high side hose of the manifold set) and ran a vacuum for 3 hours, I had better luck keeping the vacuum oil out of the gauges (nothing in the site glass) but some still seemed to drain out of the yellow hose after I disconnected everything (if anyone knows why this is happening please let me know). I used just under 3 cans of R134, I stopped just a little early on the 3rd can (I figured I could always add more if needed). I did add an extra ounce or two of oil (I used pag 150 ) in hopes of helping with the rattle (total of about 5 ounces added to the input of the dryer), I think it helped a little, obviously the extra oil did not effect the cooling. One other thing to note: during the charge I could not get the vent temperature under 60 degrees (at idle), I was a little bummed out thinking I had made it worse then it was. Well once I started driving the vehicle it did much better, usually between 47-52 when stopped at a stop light for any length of time (down from about 56-58 before the evacuate and recharge). Oh and thanks to Autozone who loaned me all the tools for free (vacuum pump, manifold gauges, flush tank, orifice puller). I was impressed!
  20. I assume your saying that is normal? It would not be the first time I have created a problem where there was none That being said I did find some vacuum oil in the yellow line so I figured I shut the vacuum pump off without shutting the valves on the manifold first (at the time I didn't know you had too) and it sucked up some vacuum oil into the line (can this happen?).. Anyway I took things apart just to verify I did not contaminate the system, I was going to flush the metal lines again but I could plainly see the oil in the metal lines where green (factory PAG oil I assume) and did not see anything that looked clear (vacuum oil). I did run some pag oil through the yellow line to flush out the vacuum oil. Anyway whatever I did it must have worked as the AC is colder then it has ever been in the 150,000 miles I have owned it :-)
  21. I am pulling my vacuum checking for leaks (connected blue line to the line/charging port that is close to the dryer input), red line to high side port, yellow line to vacuum pump and I see oil in the manifold/gauges site glass. I assume it is sucking the oil out that I poured into the dryer? I also assume this won't be good for the vacuum pump or keeping the correct level of oil in my system. Am I doing something wrong here? Thanks in advance.
  22. Found this thread on pag oil that includes a comment from you (khe) if anyone is interested. I guess I will just go with Pag-150
  23. Thanks KHE. It says synthetic oil #12345923 . Also if you have time and don't mind take a look at the orifice tube 2 post up :-).
  24. The factory dryer cam with 5 o-rings, non of which look correct, to thin (look close for the dryer lines but seem a little big, I could be wrong), to thick and 1 small o-ring. Can anyone let me know which is for what? I am tempted to use the old ones but hate to that. Also here is a pic of the orifice tube http://s265.photobucket.com/user/brmurph/media/Deville/20160901_114032_zps6pszc0g4.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1 (total of 4 pics) was hoping for better but is what I expected (one of the reasons I took this apart myself was to see how bad the orifice tube was). Is this normal or is the compressor shot?
  25. OK Thanks guys. I am using 12 oz cans. I guess you can't burp (or maybe no reason to burp because of the vacuum) the first can of refrigerant? Also just found out there are different types of Pag oil, of course the parts counter person said either would work but said pag46 is the one for my car so that is what I bought, does that sound right (98 Deville Concours).
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