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lindqu44

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  • Car Model and Year
    1999 sts
  • Engine
    NORTHSTAR 4.6L V8 VVT (LH2)

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  1. [/size]It's fixed|Here's the story and I hope it helps someone that surfs this site. I have a great Caddy dealership that I trust a lot. My Caddy needed a new engine at 58 thou years ago and although out of warranty they replaced it for me at no charge. At any rate I brought the car up there yesterday and they took on this as if it was a challenge to their manhood. I explained up front that I was not going to spend a lot of dough on this project as the car wasn't worth it, but if they thought they had a shot at fixing it I would pay for a limited amount of shop time. Well I know it took alot longer for them than they originally thought, but they traced it to a broken wire from the transmission range switch. The fix was to run a separate wire for the ground circuit. They also mentioned that they found a corroded ground pack under air box. That made sense to me. With that wire being broke, the car never new it was in park so the brake did not have to be applied to move into another gear and also the locks now work. They had about seven hours in this project and charged me for three ($345.00) and gave me a car for the night. I'm very happy. This is Minnesota where we get salted every winter, plus I have heated parking at my work which just cycles the electolysis that much more, so corrosion should be expected. At any rate I'm happy and I would like to thank you Dave for your concern and effort, I know the Caddy dealership will log on to your site. These guys are open minded and want to solve problems for their customers and they want us to buy more Caddys which I will someday. Thanks again
  2. Got the Bud- good transmission level and no codes except for PCM 1520 Forgot to tell you that when you shut off ignition the door lock solenoid activates although since this action they don't auto lock when you put in gear. Does that help?
  3. Got the Bud- good transmission level and no codes except for PCM 1520
  4. I went through the "how to" and yes was able to bring up the codes but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. I got the systems brought up starting with ABS through RSS. but did not notice any DTC's. As a matter of fact my 5plus year old battery needed a jump after playing around with the ignition on. Could it be a power problem? Also lets just say it is the RIM module is that a big deal to replace, or can it be reprogrammed at the dealership. However I am a novice and although I figured out how to display the systems I'll need more coaching as to where to go next. Thanks Dave for your help. Len Len, first of all, I just noticed that you are a new member, and a SUPPORTER at that!!!!! So let me welcome you to the board. People on here will do their best to help you with any of your problems and questions. They are a great bunch of people. If your not used to the Cadillac on board diagnostic system (OBD II), if can be quite confusing at first. But if I can sort of fuddle my way through it, anybody can. Dont be intimated by it. It can give you a lot of valuable information about how your car is operating and problems it may have. As far as I know, you cant screw up anything using the (OBD II), except maybe running the battery down. To answer your questions: 1. Yes it could be a power problem. 2. The RIM module is no big deal to replace. 3. The RIM module, cannot be reprogrammed, only replaced. 4. You can replace the RIM module without having a dealer reprogram the new on. 5. A replacment RIM can cost from $25.00 (at a junkyard) to $250.00 (at a dealer) plus a scan charge, plus labor for replacing ect. So let's not replace it just yet. The problem you are describing about shifting out of park without pressing the brake, can be caused from other things such as blown fuse or bad relay, in the Park/Lock solonid cable circut or a cable that is broke or disconnected. A .25 cent fuse is a lot cheaper than even a $25.00 RIM and easier to fix. 1. Can you shift out of PARK with the key removed? 2. Did anyone work on your car recently before this problem appeared? Your problem with the "Feature Programming" being gone from the DIC is another story. So lets start at the beginning before you go through the work and cost of replacing parts that dont need to be replaced. You said you checked the codes and didnt find any. That may be, but if you have never checked them before and/or cleared them, I would think that with a '99 you would have had at least a couple of codes even if they were just history codes. So, lets start again with checking the DTC's and go from there. First think of the three buttons as "INFO = SELECT", "RESET = NO", and "ON/OFF = YES". 1. Start the car (to avoid running the battery down) 2. Press the INFO + ON/OFF button. All lights on the dash and radio should come on for a few seconds. 3. After the lights go out, You should see in the DIC "ALL?" 4. Press the "ON/OFF = YES" button. You should see "ALL CODES?" 5. Press the "ON/OFF = YES" button. Each system should start scrolling in the DIC. 6. If you have no ABS codes, you should see: "NO ABS CODES" in the DIC. 7. Each module will be checked, if there is a code, you will see something like "RIM U1066 HISTORY". 8. You can get a message of something like "NO RIM DATA" this means that the particular module is not communicating with the diagnostic system. 9. You can get the same code(s) under one or more modules, such as "DIM U1066 HISTORY". 10. If you have code(s), write them down and the module its in. This may be hard if you have many codes. 11. If you have a lot of codes and have trouble writing them down, when the check is over, you will see the message "CLEAR ALL CODES?" 12. Press the "RESET = NO" button. This will start the diagnostic test again. Repeat until you have all codes. 13. When you've got all the codes, dont clear them, just turn the key off. If you have trouble understanding the above proceedure let me know, and I'll try to explain it better. If you have codes post them here, and we'll try to see whats going on. If you still have no codes, we'll go from there also. Dave No I cannot shift out of park with the key out. Oil changes has been the only service and they reset the oil milege. Did the codes and I think I screwed up. They listed No ABS,No AMP No DDM, DIM B1983 His, IPC 1983 His, IPM B1652 His, IRC B1760 His, PCM P1520 Current, No RFA, No RIM, No SDM, No VTD, No MSM, No ttm, No RSS. I ran them again and I inadvertantly cleared them all. I now at your mercy, Thanks again Len
  5. I went through the "how to" and yes was able to bring up the codes but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. I got the systems brought up starting with ABS through RSS. but did not notice any DTC's. As a matter of fact my 5plus year old battery needed a jump after playing around with the ignition on. Could it be a power problem? Also lets just say it is the RIM module is that a big deal to replace, or can it be reprogrammed at the dealership. However I am a novice and although I figured out how to display the systems I'll need more coaching as to where to go next. Thanks Dave for your help. Len Len, first of all, I just noticed that you are a new member, and a SUPPORTER at that!!!!! So let me welcome you to the board. People on here will do their best to help you with any of your problems and questions. They are a great bunch of people. If your not used to the Cadillac on board diagnostic system (OBD II), if can be quite confusing at first. But if I can sort of fuddle my way through it, anybody can. Dont be intimated by it. It can give you a lot of valuable information about how your car is operating and problems it may have. As far as I know, you cant screw up anything using the (OBD II), except maybe running the battery down. To answer your questions: 1. Yes it could be a power problem. 2. The RIM module is no big deal to replace. 3. The RIM module, cannot be reprogrammed, only replaced. 4. You can replace the RIM module without having a dealer reprogram the new on. 5. A replacment RIM can cost from $25.00 (at a junkyard) to $250.00 (at a dealer) plus a scan charge, plus labor for replacing ect. So let's not replace it just yet. The problem you are describing about shifting out of park without pressing the brake, can be caused from other things such as blown fuse or bad relay, in the Park/Lock solonid cable circut or a cable that is broke or disconnected. A .25 cent fuse is a lot cheaper than even a $25.00 RIM and easier to fix. 1. Can you shift out of PARK with the key removed? 2. Did anyone work on your car recently before this problem appeared? Your problem with the "Feature Programming" being gone from the DIC is another story. So lets start at the beginning before you go through the work and cost of replacing parts that dont need to be replaced. You said you checked the codes and didnt find any. That may be, but if you have never checked them before and/or cleared them, I would think that with a '99 you would have had at least a couple of codes even if they were just history codes. So, lets start again with checking the DTC's and go from there. First think of the three buttons as "INFO = SELECT", "RESET = NO", and "ON/OFF = YES". 1. Start the car (to avoid running the battery down) 2. Press the INFO + ON/OFF button. All lights on the dash and radio should come on for a few seconds. 3. After the lights go out, You should see in the DIC "ALL?" 4. Press the "ON/OFF = YES" button. You should see "ALL CODES?" 5. Press the "ON/OFF = YES" button. Each system should start scrolling in the DIC. 6. If you have no ABS codes, you should see: "NO ABS CODES" in the DIC. 7. Each module will be checked, if there is a code, you will see something like "RIM U1066 HISTORY". 8. You can get a message of something like "NO RIM DATA" this means that the particular module is not communicating with the diagnostic system. 9. You can get the same code(s) under one or more modules, such as "DIM U1066 HISTORY". 10. If you have code(s), write them down and the module its in. This may be hard if you have many codes. 11. If you have a lot of codes and have trouble writing them down, when the check is over, you will see the message "CLEAR ALL CODES?" 12. Press the "RESET = NO" button. This will start the diagnostic test again. Repeat until you have all codes. 13. When you've got all the codes, dont clear them, just turn the key off. If you have trouble understanding the above proceedure let me know, and I'll try to explain it better. If you have codes post them here, and we'll try to see whats going on. If you still have no codes, we'll go from there also. Dave
  6. I went through the "how to" and yes was able to bring up the codes but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. I got the systems brought up starting with ABS through RSS. but did not notice any DTC's. As a matter of fact my 5plus year old battery needed a jump after playing around with the ignition on. Could it be a power problem? Also lets just say it is the RIM module is that a big deal to replace, or can it be reprogrammed at the dealership. However I am a novice and although I figured out how to display the systems I'll need more coaching as to where to go next. Thanks Dave for your help. Len
  7. When scrolling the DIC on my 99 sts all displays show with exception of the Featurd Programming. At the same time this feature was lost, the brake was not needed to shift out of park. Also the auto door lock featured is unabled. Need some help please. Len
  8. Does anyone know how to restore the Feature Programming component in the menu of the DIC on my 99 STS. If one scrolls the DIC with the info button all settings appear except the Feature Programming display. Also at the same time the brake does not have to be activated to shift out of park, and, the door locks don't automatically lock when putting the car in gear. These all worked until a week ago. I've owned the car since new. All help will be greatly appeciated. Len
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