95-4.6l

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About 95-4.6l

  • Rank
    Participant (30+ posts)

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  • Car Model and Year
    1995 deville concours
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)
  1. Hi all, I've got both power windows failing on the driver side. Nasty ratcheting grinding sound and sticking. When I unmount the lift motors they seem to run ok. Does this seem to you like the motors are just too weak now or is there a problem with the geared piece they hook into? One of the motors is a remanned replacement I put in that doesn't seem to have lasted that long. When installing replacement motors should the window be rolled all the way up or down or does it not matter? Don't want to burn through another or damage anything..
  2. Hi all, I've got both power windows failing on the driver side. Nasty ratcheting grinding sound and sticking. When I unmount the lift motors they seem to run ok. Does this seem to you like the motors are just too weak now or is there a problem with the geared piece they hook into? One of the motors is a remanned replacement I put in that doesn't seem to have lasted that long. When installing replacement motors should the window be rolled all the way up or down or does it not matter? Don't want to burn through another or damage anything..
  3. update.. found a good shop to work on things. it turns out to be a relay - i can't find a picture of it. it looks similar to this: http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage...elco/D1703A.jpg but is square from the top - about 1 inch square by 2 inches tall - and only has three blades on the bottom. numbers on it: 3548813 Z-7356 D 4228 the new one doesn't click as loud as the old one - sounds more like a toyota or something now - quiet.. $65 bucks parts and labor.. phew..
  4. sorry for the delayed reply. it does seem to be the switch on the steering column. it makes a double scritching sound sometimes when signaling a turn instead of the normal single click. now when signaling a turn it will flash 3 or 4 times then completely die - no flashing no light. or it will just not operate. dealer said labor on this would be $350-400 bucks plus part since it's in the steering column. does this sound right? haven't checked costs anywhere else yet. is this the part? http://198.208.187.182/internet/PartImage....cpartnbr=D1518E or does the whole lever need to be replaced?
  5. idle speed control? replacing worked for me. car was dying at low speed and when started.
  6. thanks for replying Johnny. ah.. will look more carefully at the sockets. sorry for the noob question but, how exactly do i trace the socket ground wire to ground? do they ground to somewhere on the frame or back to the battery negative terminal? when i find out where.. i wire a test light from the socket to the grounding point? - continuity test that wire? sorry for the diagram - couldn't get a monospaced font to stick. basically the top row is the center high mounted brake light then the next three rows are the three bulbs on either taillight.
  7. Hi, thanks for replying. Yes, only changed bulbs in the cornering lamps and the side markers next to them. They were all fine but I had them open and changed them anyway thinking maybe they were somehow bad after many years of operation. No effect. Not really surprised. I've had the car for.. about 4 years. It was fine when i got it. The only possible thing was that after about a year, at times there would be fast flashing when using the directional/turn signals. I only noticed this from inside the car so I don't know what the bulbs were doing. At some point - maybe after i changed some dead bulbs - this asymmetrical flashing would happen where out of the three bulbs in the taillights, either the top two would alternate or the center one would be out asymmetrically from left to right. something like this: brake: XX o x x o o o Then later on, when pressing the brake, assymetrical brightening of the bulbs. Here's what's happening now: lights off + brake pedal: XX x x x x o o lights on + brake pedal: XX o o o o x x ---- lights off + right turn signal: oo o <x> o <x> o o blinks FAST lights on + right turn signal: oo x <x> x <x> X X blinks dim to OFF ---- lights off + left turn signal: oo <x> o <x> o o o blinks FAST lights on + left turn signal: oo <x> x <x> x X X blinks dim to OFF what d'you think? thanks. o - off x - dim on X - bright on <x> - flashing
  8. Hi all, When brake pedal is pressed: center high brake light glows brighter (correct), both left and right brake lights *darken* - all four bulbs (incorrect..). I had been getting asymmetrical weirdness before - then changed both bulbs in the center high light which led to current symmetrical but still wrong condition. On changing bulbs i noticed that some of the contacts looked like they'd melted off sidewaysish.. Thought hm, maybe bulbs are still working but have bad contacts and are causing weird flashing. Changed front markers and cornering lamps for kicks. No effect. Should I bother changing front turn signal lights and headlights? Are headlights part of the flashing circuit? The front turn signals have wire type contacts on a plastic blade - which seem more reliable.. Is this a steering column switch problem? Thanks. - 95 deville concours
  9. Ah ok. The label under the hood says use dexcool i think - it's the concours - aluminum engine. But I remember once when the radiator was leaking a guy at the mobil station poured green in - which ran out the bottom.. Replaced radiator and asked for dexcool - the put in "orange" coolant but i suspect now after reading more that it might not have been actually dexcool. Is it true that even flushing the system now will not allow a switch back to dexcool? I should just go with standard non-dexcool?
  10. Hello, I got a Check Coolant Level message on the dash the last couple of days. Maybe 1 out of 3 times driving the car. Is it ok to top off with coolant that says use with any color coolant? http://www.prestone.com/enlarged/index.php...ifreeze/Coolant I think I remember having it flushed and filled with dexcool but i'm not sure - might be green. Is it safe to top off with this other stuff? Also, I thought coolant level wasn't supposed to drop ever. Is this a sign of leakage? Thanks.
  11. Hi, Yeah, i've taken it to a couple of places - two dealer shops and a couple of private shops - no one seems to want to work on it. I was told the rear main seal is leaking for one thing. But one of the dealer shops said "multiple" oil leaks. I put cardboard under the car every night to catch drips - there's a varying amount every day. But usually more than a few drops. Sometimes oil drips back to the catalytic converter or other hot parts and burns while i'm sitting at a light, or after i've parked the car at the end of a drive. There seems to be oil coating the underbody nearly all the way back to the mufflers.. I passed a smog check with clouds of burning oil pouring out.. seems like heavy pollution.. It varies - the amount of leakage/burning.. Thanks for the info, guys. Yeah.. Reengineer seems a little over-budget.. Thanks.
  12. My 95 concours is leaking pretty badly. New engine plus install would be over $6-7000.. This will likely raise some eyebrows but I keep getting the guilt trip laid on me for driving a big sedan: Anyone ever thought about putting a duramaxx engine in this car and running it on biodiesel/kitchen grease? Thanks.
  13. is there ever the danger that lube sprays will penetrate into bolt threads and cause them to eventually vibrate loose?
  14. Hi All, Rear suspension is squeaking and creeking like crazy at this point. Was creaky in corners but now it's creaking just rolling down the road. Then when I get out it creaks and if i push down on the rear quarters on either side of the car it creaks. I see rubber rings around the upper and lower control arm bolts which look cracked.. i was told everything is safe - just noisy.. (Is this correct? Is this safe?) (Shop wanted to replace control arms for about 2300.00 - or 500.00 labor if i could find the bushings separate..) I also see a suspension support forward arm bushing in the manual but haven't found it on the car yet.. I saw another post about using silicone spray on rubber parts/bushings on the car being ok but here's some other related questions: - If you spray lube on the rubber collars around the control arm connection points or any other rubber spacer on a bolt - is there a danger of the lube causing the bolts to loosen and undo themselves? (product i was looking at is called "Liquid Wrench" - made me wonder..) - Does it seem like these spacers are the source of squeaking in your experience? Thanks. 95 DeVille Concours
  15. not sure if this is what you have. my 95 concours was making a sound like a metal plate being slammed down over big bumps and after then later, uneven road surface. was a broken stabilizer bar clamp in the rear - metal collar goes around stabilizer bar. about 10 bucks for the part. looks like a piece of a cyclone fence.