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BarneyKris

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    2000 Deville DTS

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  1. I have developed a major tramission fluid leak on my 2000 Deville DTS. A few months ago I replaced the left (based on sitting in driver seat) transaxle and did not replace the seal (used official GM manual and it did not say to do so but would have made a lot of sense, $5 seal while the whole axle was off). Anyway, I assumed the tranny leak was going to be from there but further study showed it is not the left transaxle. I only looked without jacking up the car. When I idled it in driveway for a while, including in nuetral and shifting through the gears, it never started leaking. Then I took it down the road for a mile or two at 55 and returned home and when parked it did begin dripping transmission fluid. This has become a major leak as I have added two quarts of tranny fluid twice now. From observing the bottom of the engine without jacking up the car I noticed that the transxale seal does not appear to be leaking. Nothing up high on the engine appears to be leaking. The dripping transmission fluid was coming from just left of center of the underside (while seated in the driver seat). It is just left and behind the back left corner of the oil pan and appears to be off the front of the transmission fluid pan. It also drips off the rear portion of the heavy black metal bracket that protects the manifold (two bolts share oil pan bolts). I know I need to jack it up etc. but based on that location of the dripping is there a logical spot that could be leaking? Again the front side of the trans pan and rear portion of the thick black metal bracket. Looking at diagrams in my GM manuals if I had to guess it would look like the 4th Servo Cover seal, at least based on location. Any suggestions fellas?
  2. We are changing out a front CV axle because of a cracked boot. We have the wheel side free but are having trouble removing the axle from the tranny. we don't want to wreck any tranny seals etc. i have the GM manual and they list a special c-shaped ring and puller (like dent puller) to remove it. I do not have the specialty parts for this method. Any tricks or advice on how to remove it. We yanked on the axle and pulled it out at the boot but need to remove rest (just a core on old axle so was't worried about pulling on it since not re-using it.) will a pry bar work without damage. Or two pry bars with equal leverage from both sides? any other tools???
  3. I bought a used 2000 Deville DTS and have a variety of issues with it. I posted that whole long sad story in another post. I am now confronted wth a bunch of repairs to get it right. The GM dealer charged me $75 to diagnose two small issues. That is just diagnose. They wanted two hours labor and I said I would pay for one and saw only 25 minutes work on my car and settled on $75. Rediculous and cady dealers even worse. I am not made of money. I bought used for crying out loud. I am going to do the front brakes myself, tore my underdash apart for work on a mode door etc. I have broken heated seats and thanks to a post with photos I think I would be willing to try the element replacement. But some items I am afraid to try myself. I have a leaking CV boot. Just noticed it, it wasn't there a week ago and am not driving it much until I can get the boot fixed. I have a bad wheel bearing and upper (outer?) tie rod. My biggy is a half case or oil pan leak. Pretty severe. In the garage at idle for 20 minutes I had 8 spots of oil and have had to add three quarts in only 500-1000 miles. It smokes a lot and have been told the leak is pretty severe. Dealer is like 2000-3000 on repair. Need someone to try and stop leak with bolt removal etc. and if to no avail then pull engine and fix correctly? Someone familiar with N*s. My main question is the dealer prices are crazy and blown out of proportion. Mainly warranty work type, who could afford those prices out of warranty? Like $550 to replace a mode door actuator, or $1150 to replace seat heating elements. And on and on. Does anyone know of a good honest home garage mechanic or small time business that can do some good quality repairs at a fair and reasonable price, and maybe allow me to bring parts or at least avoid mark-up on them. I can leave the car for longer than normal as I have a winter beater. I am located in Western Wisconsin, about 40 miles east of St. Paul Mn. but would be willing to travel 100 miles or so if need be. Maybe rural Wisconsin? Could spend 1500 or so if need be but don't want to give the dealer 4 grand. Any leads or advice? Want to get the car right but got ripped off on the car and don't want to repeat the same mistake on the repairs. How does one find alternatives to the dealer? I need someone to tell me truthfully what needs repairing or not, cost minded alternatives, etc. If you tell the dealer to "get it right" they will fleece you to no end. No scruples.
  4. I just bought a 2000 Deville DTS. Battery still seems ok. Will see how it handles at 20 below in wisconsin. Battery says 880 cold cranking amps. Assuming original. My main question is there is a hole from corrosion right through the bottom of my battery compartment, about the size of a quarter. It has the vent tubes installed etc, but hole right through floor. Hate to replace battery if not needed or does this say I need to replace? Can I put something under the battery that will protect the burning holes and still allow for the battery holder to bolt down and keep battery from moving?
  5. Gees, I wish I knew you guys before I pulled the trigger. I will give you my sad story. Sorry about the length but if I can help out even one other buyer it will be worth the read. I started doing my homework and looked at over 200 cadillacs on auto trader, ebay and other on-line sites and also locally in Twin Cities area. I spent about 2 solid months several nights a week and was keeping logs of final sale prices etc. I too figured out that there is a glut of Cadillacs in Florida and prices were a bit cheaper due to glut and also I live in salt belt and figured hey, no salt. I decided on a 2000 Deville DTS. wanted the 300 horses and also new body style, figuring better engineering, regular gas, redesign N*, tighter suspension, etc. I got a bit weary following so many cars so finally wore down a bit and bid on a dolphin automotive ebay Carscarscars deal. Called the guy up and he shut down auction early for me at $10,250 for 2000 Deville DTS, Crimson red with new chrome color after market grille ($500) and had 52,000 miles. (no sunroof and no night vision, had rest of DTS options including back up sensor.) Person on phone convinced me it was between good and excellent and when I asked if I could get it inspected after buying it he said that it couldn't leave the lot due to insurance purposes. I could get a 100 point inspection via ebay for $100 on-site but he said I would be wasting my money. (they over hype many of their cars as "dancers"). So I bit and bought. Now they tell you that if you do not like it you can say no and get a refund, etc. Once you fly to Florida (I got a $125 one-way flight) you are a bit pre-disposed to buy versus the lot down the street where you just drive home and sleep on it. They were friendly enough, pick you up at the airport, nice looking gal behind counter, etc. Not really a car lot but an alley way with about 7-8 cadillacs laying around and a small office. I had run carfax on this car and saw two owners both from local Ft lauderdale and mileage pattern seemed okay. Carfax told me carscarscars bought at local dealer auction about a month earlier. They sell so many cadys that figured they had good eye at auction, and they back that talk up on phone. Of course Crimson red catches your eye but car seemed to have many car wash type scratches all over plus other "keyed" scratches. Maybe they can be buffed? Front bumper blemish like 50 cent piece melted plastic, none of photos showed in any detail on ebay. Front tires had 3/32nds and rears were at wear bars. (50 photos on ebay but only front tires, no photo of backs. humm) I took for short drive with one of workers and looked for "check Engine" light, A/C seemed cold, told myself I could get new tires and decided I was over-reacting to scratches since a 2000 model. So I took it and started my drive back to Wisconsin. On ride home tried to use defroster and vents were stuck on dash only. Later found out, when I learned to run the codes that I had a mode door actuator error code. Also tried the heated front seats and no good for either fronts, back seats did heat. Once back to Wisconsin I took to the dealer and had inspected for heated seats and mode door etc. Repairs on those two things from dealer is about $500 for mode door and $1100 for seats. They also said I had worn to the nub front brakes, a bad wheel bearing front right and bad upper tie rod front left. Then they told me about the oil leak. Quite a nasty one. 3.5 quarts per 1000 miles or so, lots of smoke when stop etc. Could be the oil pan or half case gaskets mostly likely suspects. Repair is between $1500 and $3000. It did it not smoke down there when I looked at it but did as soon as I got home? Did they temperarily clean it off or seal it? Pan gaskets would take years to gradually fail not something sudden? I also now have a cracked boot on CV axle. Maybe result of Florida rubber meeting wisconsin freezing temps? I immediately tried to use ebay and contact sellers but once they have your money forget it. They told me after third letter, what do you expect of a 7 year old car. Yes, I expect things to break after I own it for a while, but not to be sold to me broken and not disclose the issues, ones that must be obvious to someone who sells 300 cadys a year. I tried to use Ebay insurance protection but they told me that it has to be a missing engine or tranny and if the car ran and moved in any fashion, it was not covered. Pretty narrow coverage. He said he would call the dealer for me, maybe that would get the compensation ball rolling. After several calls with run around he gave up. I am now trying to contest my $2000 down payment via a credit card to make some of the repairs, will see how that goes. (They won't take credit card on balance; cashier check or money transfer, no credit cards). Most blatant of all is the ad states "heated Seats" and they do not work in front, either side, and that is a false description of an ebay item anyway you look at it. ebay insurance guy says, "would you sue the newspaper who printed ad if seller is crook"? Which means ebay really doesn't give a rats tail either. Yes, I was stupid, (my wife reminds me every day) but I have an engineering degree in computer science and still got conned. I am not a cady mechanic and should have not pretended to be. Plus there is no hoist so how are you going to look underneath with as low as these cars sit? How are you going to have a mechanic inspect a car and then the bidding gets above your price target. How many inspections can you pay for and end up not bidding on car. Several states away and ebay is fraught with risk. If I go to small claims court it is in Florida, I'm in Wisconsin. The sellers know that and it emboldens them. I have spent over 100 hours on these forums as I try to figure out how to do some repairs myself. Oil leak is beyond my means, pulling engine, tranny etc. Yes, I bought at trade in value in Kelly Blue Book but if I have to put $5000 into a $10,000 car to get right, there goes my price margin right out the window. I have one expensive 2000 Deville DTS. considering I used hard earned money and drive them for at least 5 years or more I am reminded of my mistake every day. I feel like dumping it but could not sell it with a clean conscience with all the issues I found. And if I fix them the car is way overpriced, so pretty much stuck with this lemon. I have found a great group of human beings on these forums that do help out for free. God Bless all of you. You restore my faith in humanity after a buying nightmare. I will be posted questions as I try to get this car right on a DIYer beer budget. I apologize for the ramble. But please head my warning. If getting from Texas or Florida, go down and just look in person as this thread states. Plan on not buying and only buy if right. Make sure you get some kind of warranty, even if 30 days and make sure it covers a lot. Have it inspected by an independent mechanic. Be aware of auctions, or any long distance buy as you are pre-dispostioned to take car once you travel and have paid down payment and plane ticket already. And lastly, stay as far away from the dolphin carscars cars on ebay as you can get. Trust me on that one. Just Google them and see other horror stories on them, if you don't want to take my word for it. Also pay attention to their bad feedback. They have 98% good but you are only buying one car and if you get the other negative 2%, it might as well be 100% negative as you are only buying one car. They buy at auction, maybe real cheap due to issues, and represent eeryone of there cars as mint, look on ther ads and tell me if they ever disclose one negative fact. How can all of their auction cars be mint? Maybe when I get it fixed and new tires I will feel better, albeit throwing $5000 into the wind to get it to the level they described and represented the cars condition in the first place on the auction sure leaves you P.O.'ed. My only solice at this point is if I can get someone else to avoid my dealer or learn from my mistakes. I got suckered but please Caveot Emptor!
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