marco7

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About marco7

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    Observer (3-9 posts)

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  • Car Model and Year
    2000 Deville
  1. Good point, I often forget that since the body style is still fresh.
  2. The strut ASSEMBLY was replaced by dealer for $249 as I stated above. The rented Deville was a base deville. My wheels are the same 16" rim size as the '04. "ACDelco" and what you get from the dealer parts counter(acdelco) differs in quality, at least that's been my experience to date. New problem though, RF control arms creaks and moans like a banshee. Ordered an oem replacement, if that helps the ride quality I'll on that side I'll replace the LF as well. Also the RR oem replacement shock is seizing up on me. Cadillac/GM doesn't even offer the original rear shocks anymore. Instead they're a rebadged gabriel hijacker set. Besides the suspension issues, this car has way too many problems at 89K miles. Love the looks, acceleration and the roominess of the vehicle, but it has been the most problematic car I've owned. Can't even get it inspected due to TCC solenoid fault triggering the CEL. Service Security warning on the dash about 50% of the time.
  3. Houston Here! 2000 Deville base 86k

  4. This week i took it into the dealer(a chevy dlr) and they once again honored the warranty on the strut mount and its bearing, since i had receipts for the 2 parts from the parts counter. But they also stated the rf strut assembly was faulty, so it had to go. Problem is i bought those from rockauto so i asked for the old part back which they obliged me. The bill for the strut part was something like $249 and labor was $200. Ouch. I called Rockauto and they said that they would have sent a new replacement part out for the repair had they known, great but i needed to be getting on down the road that day. The RA guy said he'd try and get acdelco to refund the price I paid($150) or at the very least have another strut sent to me. I could ebay it to recoup some of my costs. It's driving fine now, maybe a little too much air in those tires, they always seem to over-fill the tires making them firm. I 'll check it out tomorrow before I leave. thanks for the posts from hjb and BbF!
  5. This is a very confusing post What is your complaint? What are the symptoms? What makes you think the strut mount is bad?, again... How long ago/how many miles ago did the dealer install the strut mount? Was the ROCKAUTO strut installed at the same time? Who installed the ROCKAUTO strut?, the dealer? Was an alignment done at that time? Was the strut installed correctly at that time, there is a VERY specific alignment of the strut, strut mount and spring that MUST be performed, who assembled the strut assembly? If the strut assembly was assembled wrong, it will stress the strut and damage it and the mount. Different cars even the same year cars ride differently, ask TexasJim. Plus how do you expect to RENT a car and compare it to a car that you purchased. What kind of tires did the rental car have on it? What was the rental car's tire pressure? What kind of roads did you drive the rental car on? Did the cars have the same suspension? You can not compare cars this way What makes you think that the coil spring is the wrong part number or for the wrong year? Explain what you mean by "had always ridden a little rougher" Try not to COMPLAIN here, try to provide FACTS and DETAILS. Struts are like Shock Absorbers, to me, they only last about 60,000 miles and they are toast, period and that is being kind. Strut mounts to me are worn out more quickly by turning the wheels, do you parallel park often, that is the type of back and forth steering that would more quickly wear the mount out. However, as I said, if the strut, strut mount and spring were not propertly aligned it will put stress in the assembly and wear out quicker Allright, sorry for any confusion. I originally bought all the parts from the dealer with the exception of the (FE1, soft) struts which I bought online at rockauto. I install everything myself and the car drives much tighter and after an alignment very smoothly. However, it is still NOT the cushy ride that i remembered from that '05 rental. That car was smooth like glass, nothing really jarred it even deep potholes around NYC. So before I went buying new parts to regain that ride I first did some investigating, it appears that some of the front suspension parts on the 2000 base deville were changed over in the 2001/02 model year. I believe the control arms were changed asa well as some other parts like tie rod ends. I did not replace the control arms just the springs, seats, bearings, insulators, struts, and strut mounts. I did initially buy the strut mounts (ac/delco) from rockauto, when I received them I was surprised to see that the quality appeared to be much different than what was coming off the car. The strut mount from ac delco(rockauto) came with a hard rubber surface that mates to the underside of the car's strut tower. The original oem part coming off the car had a nice cork materialas a mating suurface. With the acdelco mount you also get the strut mount bearing included. The ac delco strut mount was made in China, when I went to the dealer parts counter the strut mount had the cork liner and was mad in Portugal. So I went with all OEM stuff except for the struts, since the box that i saw at the dealer's parts counter said made in Mexico on it, just like the acdelco struts I rec'd from rockauto. I installed everything, torque'd to spec. I then had it aligned at NTB. For the first several weeks everything was fine, but it was nothing like that '04 I rented. I had hoped that maybe the new oem springs (that the dealer cross referenced) were just too new to give that cush ride, some miles would have to be put on to see a change. That never happened. Instead, I have been having the RF strut mount fail. The top of the strut rod goes through the middle of the strut mount and is tightened to spec. On my car, the rubber core surrounding the strut rod will crack and then fail by allowing the strut top with nut to extend upward(about 1.5 inches), hitting the bottom of the hood when you drive over any small imperfection in the road. Not sure the reason for the failures. I was surprised to see that both new strut rods had very light resistance to them...I could easily push the rod down into the cylinder with 2 fingers, but there was some paperwork in the box stating that this is by design. I believe the OEM bearing was reused, so it may be the culprit. thanks.
  6. Okay, the first strut mount was oem new along with some new seats, bearings, insulators, coils and struts(the struts were actually ac/delco from rockauto, the rest was from gm dealer parts counter. So far the right strut mount has failed on just normal potholes, nothing too deep, just a hard hit that seems to leave other vehicles unaffected. Tires are new, michelins primacy mxvs...no complaints with them. I am taking it in this week to the dealer since the last time they were the ones who installed their oem mounts. I am wondering if: 1. The rockauto struts are faulty, causing this to reoccur? 2. The dealer's oem new coil springs for my car may have been for the wrong year. Or are they just faulty parts that have been sitting on the shelf too long? I did all this because the car had always ridden a little rougher than expected for a caddy with 19k on the clock (which is what it had when I bought it.) I once rented the same model(base 04) back in 2004 and it drove 1,000X better than my caddy drives. I drove that rental for 2 weeks, and put about 2500 miles on it. That's the reason I bought my 2000 base, to get that same ride.
  7. FOLLOW UP Thanks for the replies. Here's what I had to do: Since the inner cv had already popped out and I was still unable to extend the lower control arm low enough to attach the strut, I removed the stabilizer bar's link and then I was able to get the holes lined up while carefully re-inserting the half-shaft into the inner cv housing. Then I had to replace the inner cv's boot clamp, while still on the vehicle, lol. Tried using a proper spare clamp from a boot kit I had, but was unable to get it tightened properly since access to it was difficult. I eneded up going to lowes and buying some screw-type metal clamps and some HD zip ties since I know i can find use for them if I don't use them anyway. After some careful measuring for clearance, I used one of the 4" metal clamps. I put a small strip of folded hvac foil tape under the clamp's screw and ribbed section so they don't tear into the boot later. It turns with no interference by about 2.5mm. On another forum, it was suggested that I should have removed the axle's hub nut, which would allow the spindle to slide outward without any danger of the inner shaft removing itself from the tranny. (For anyone reading this in the future, that axle nut on the 2000 deville is 33mm in size or 1 5/16" std socket.) I did this on the other side, but the spindle did not slide freely outward as suggested, gave it a good wack from behind but it wouldn't budge. I read elsewhere that a jaw puller would free it up, but I didn't have one handy. So instead of risking the inner CV half-shaft popping out again, I chose to control the strut assembly's length by using the spring compressor and leaving it attached during installation to car. Here's a little tip. I used some blue tape (it was handy) on the upper rungs to show where the spring compressor needed to be placed so that bolts will clear the bottom plate of the strut. Once I had it compressed enough to get the strut's mount/washer/top nut on, I compressed it down a little more to allow me to compress the strut by hand(FE1 struts are easy to compress by hand) once the assembly is attached to it's perch with the 3 top bolts. On the first side, I had installed the strut assembly as a unit without the compressor attached. I then tried to compress the spring afterwards but the compressor wouldn't allow me to attach it from the bottom up, because the bolts would extend into the wheel-well's housing. But on the second side, I compressed it from the top down. Meaning that the bolt heads of the spring compressor are at the top of the assembly. I thought that this would keep me from releasing the spring once it's installed, but all I did was add some nuts to the bottom of the spring compressor's bolts, 2 on each rod. Now when you tighten those new nuts(heh) the compressor slowly releases the tension of the spring. Once the hooks are loose you just slide them to where you can easily remove them. Not sure why it didn't occur to me the first time, guess there's that learning curve thing. Carefully using an electric or air impact for the grunt work of the spring compressing (once it's started by hand) is helpful too.
  8. Spent about 6 hours with this yesterday, NOT fun. I'm installing new OEM/ACdelco struts/springs/insulators/bearings/seats/bellows & bumpers. I installed the completed assembly as a complete unit per FSM, attached the 3 bolts at top of mount perch. But now the strut assembly is too low(a few inches) to connect the spindle to it. I've attempted to compress the bottom of the strut with a floor jack & bottle jack but all it does is violently pop itself loose before I can get the spindle anywhere near it. The outer boot is really getting chewed from the bottom of the strut. The strut has also been resting on the cv half shaft at times. I even tilted the spindle outward as far as I could and that's when the innner half-shaft popped out. I've also remove the top bolts and attempted to install the lower 2 bolts on base of strut first, but then the strut is too tall to clear the inner fender to mount the top 3 bolts. Even with the half shaft out, I still cannot line up 2 holes of the lower strut to the spindle. The strut is just too low. I've also used the spring compressor again while on the vehicle but I'm unable to attach it to the higher "rungs" due to the design of the TWO different types of spring compressors I have. Was able to just compress the lower 2 or 3 rungs, didn't help much. If I flip the tool upside down then the long bolts interfere with the inner fenderwell area. The other way, the adjusting bolts are barely accessible at the top. Has anyone encountered this before, am I missing something? Seems like the lower control arm should be able to drop lower without automatically popping out the inner half shaft. thanks for any help.