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About hangar18valk

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  • Car Model and Year
    98 sts
  1. thanks BBF, i saw that thread. I am replacing the cover too! Got the tool rented from my local Autozone (in Yuma, AZ!). i think it's free actually, with a $30 deposit. hangar
  2. Well, the small seepage turned into a "Check Coolant Level" Message and subsequent mess on the garage floor. Time to replace the water pump! I've searched on here and found some good info on this procedure, but if anyone wants to chime in, please do! Have parts on order...will start tearing it apart tonight. hangar
  3. i posted this back in July (2002 STS):
  4. rear shock info: i just troubleshot (and replaced) my rear shocks on a 2002 STS, 50k miles. you need to check the air compressor, which is located above the right-side exhaust resonator. the compressor will cycle on for a couple of seconds, and then vent, about 30 seconds after the key is switched on. i hear it pump when backing up, but it should be easily noticeable if you don't start the car. i can't hear it vent though, but i assume the vent function works because my ride-height is OK. if you can't hear the compressor cycle after turning the key on, there's no sense swapping parts.
  5. Thanks to previous posters who suggested the magnet trick. Here are the steps I followed: 1. Turn key "ON" 2. Press both "lock" and "unlock" buttons on the key fob until the horn chirps 3. Hold a strong magnet onto the LF (left front) valve stem, for a few seconds, until the horn chirps 4. Repeat on the other wheels - clockwise, in order - RF, RR, LR (although the DIC scroll order is LF, RF, LR, RR) 5. After the LR is done, horn chirps twice, indicating "reprogramming" (re-learning) is complete Someone suggested to get "strong magnets" from old harddrives...well they were ri
  6. i think the guy i bought the car from did exactly that: 2 new tires on front and the 2 "less worn" tires in the rear. the wear was even...i didn't think the worn shocks would have accelerated the wear that much, either. i'm going to call Arnott back and specify my 02 is not Magnaride and hope they say "in that case, our 01s will work." hangar
  7. thanks for the responses! my '02 does not have the Magnaride shocks. i was originally looking for Magnaride, but decided against it. They became available on late '02 models. i have the VIN break on my home computer and can provide it tonight, if anyone wants it. (i had forgotten the difference; i bet you're right that Arnott is working on Magnaride replacements.) So Arnott's 01 may work after all. i'm also interested to hear if anyone has used them and their experience. i just bought the car with 50k miles...not that much. and the rear tires were quite a bit more worn than the fro
  8. GMPartsDirect has rear shocks for ($100.77/$99.84 left/right) described as "w/o realtime damping"...would these be the same functionality-wise as the Arnott's? for 1/3rd of the cost? i'm assuming the "realtime damping" is the active suspension and that these "passive" shocks maintain the airbag auto-leveling - bad assumption? and the "w/realtime damping" ($451.11 each) are shown as for 00-02, implying the 02 is not different than the 01. what are my options? thanks! hangar
  9. thanks...i bounced a friend's SLS and it was much stiffer. problem is, Arnott has not developed their 02-03 STS shocks. i spoke with them on the phone and the sales guy didn't know the difference but knew they were behind in getting them developed and produced. so my next question is: Would the 01 STS (or 02 SLS) rear shock work on my 2002 STS? what's the real difference? i haven't yet checked GM part numbers but i will.
  10. new Michelin Energy tires, car drives great on smooth roads. it happens over bumps, especially when cornering and/or braking. no DIC messages/codes. no weight in trunk either (have not tried stuffing the kid in there yet...j/k) i know there are some aftermarket shocks (Arnott), but i'd really like to troubleshoot this first. i did the "bounce test," and the rear took about 2.5-3 cycles before leveling after 3 consecutive bounces. the whole rear end bounced...could not really isolate the right-rear (where i think the problem is). the fronts seem stiff enough that i really couldn't bounc
  11. OK, the problem was two (2!) pens had gotten dropped in there. Along with some toothpicks (nasty) and some crumbs. Previous owner... Here's how to take it out if ever you have to or just want to for cleaning. 1. Remove console lid's latch plate and spacer (Phillips-head screws (2)) 2. Remove the cupholder trim plate by pulling upward first, the forward. You'll probably need to open/close the cupholder as you wiggle the trim plate off. 3. Remove two (2) more Phillips-head screws that hold the top of the cupholder assy. 4. Remove the "wood" trim around the shifter, as if you were ga
  12. yep, me again. title says it all, except that it's hard get closed/latched too. is there a way to adjust the latching mechanism? thanks!
  13. i didn't think about the chain lube - good idea. my son doesn't use it often enough on his quad, so i know he won't miss a squirt or two...
  14. thank guys. i found part, and yes it's a "door check" ($32). i should never have doubted... i'll probably try lubing it first. hangar
  15. the passenger's and rear doors creak at the hinges/cam when opening/closing. the driver's door not so much, probably related to usage. it looks like there was some sort of lube sprayed on the hinges...i sprayed some Lithium grease in there today but not much improvement. any suggestions on reducing this creaking noise? i don't want the hinges to get damaged... thanks, hangar
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