• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


basod2002 last won the day on October 1 2013

basod2002 had the most liked content!

About basod2002

  • Rank
    Participant (30+ posts)
  • Birthday 11/28/1979

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Munford Alabama

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2001 Seville STS
  1. Did you change plug and boot on #3 while in there changing the coil bank? Either could be faulty - possible leaking injector on cylinder #3 or plug could be going bad due to coolant fouling on the intake side. You'll pull a standard 0300 misfire from the display but your code reader may be able to read the cylinder
  2. Do you by chance have a link in the how-to or any tips advice - pictures usually help me the most. I have to do some measuring on where the sub frame bolts to the body. I recall a thread where someone built an a-frame lift and raised the body in his shop. I'm thinking similar but just running some 4x6's to the trusses in my garage, raising the rear tires on some ramps dropping the engine/subframe on a roller dolly I have access to, and raising the body with a 4x6 spanned from side to side - it may need to be blocked up to clear the exhaust. I have access to plenty of high tonnage rigging/slings etc. When they drop an engine with a lift the lift picks the body from the rails underneath the door hinge area right? Is any temporary bracing required to prevent the nose from sagging?
  3. Well that's that - block test failed twice. Even got a consistent bubble stream every ~3secs at idle. Works out to probably 1 cylinder ~750rpm/4strokes/60s/min. Not sure if I'll trade it or attempt to drop the engine myself. The machining work doesn't scare me just the logistics of dropping the engine without a lift
  4. You aren't seeing any puddles/drips especially during ambient temperature swings? The water pump housing gasket can leak very slightly on these engines - there is an upgraded seal/housing to fix this issue, mine went around 80k My STS developed a small weep 3-4yrs ago in the coolant recovery tank right above the bolt to the fender it would boil off under pressure but I'd never see a leak when cold. If you see a white stress mark in the lower plastic check it while it's hot - could be opening up under pressure Check radiator end tanks around the mounting areas especially the casting seams for cracks/wet spots. Fill the system with correct mix when cold and drive it till it's fully warmed then open the hood and sniff around for coolant smell. A weeping hose connection around the thermostat will show an orange stain on top of the water pump - run your finger around hose connections when it's completely cooled off any wetness could be the source of your loss
  5. The first thing I did was remove the purge fitting/orifice and ran a drill all the way through, even though I could blow through it with it removed I replaced the water pump tensioner and belt last fall after the radiator/hoses/t-stat because I was having the same issue with good flow through the purge was a bit warmer the around early October - we still have a few warm days in the fall down here. Basically the colder weather this winter has probably masked the flow issue - today it's 50F on the ride home and no issues, yesterday was 74 and it went past 5/8 at idle after a couple minutes in park(fully warmed up from the drive home both times) Talked to 2 local shops and neither replace end tanks - pretty much what I figured more in labor than a new one
  6. With the recent warmer temps >70 I've been seeing the temp gauge rise at idle @5/8 on the gauge the fans kick into high speed but temps continue to climb. I pulled the purge line/orifice and ran a drill through it maybe some small crud but it wasn't blocked. Back in the fall I had a crack in the passenger side tank and replaced the radiator but recall the core not being as thick as the original - I'd have to get the micrometer out but maybe 1/8-3/16" smaller, so possibly the radiator cooling capacity is lower. At the same time changed the t-stat(supposedly fail open) it was different style and could also be contributing to my issues. Debating about having the tanks replaced on the old radiator and going back to original style t-sat and running another block test before I do any of this. There is no overheating under driving conditions accelerating hill climbs nothing only at idle for a minute or more in temps >70 and it comes back to 1/2 on the gauge after driving for 1/4mi. I haven't noticed any coolant consumption or leaks/smell during these idle slight - overheating incidents. Any other ideas?
  7. I hear you Logan - I'll be keeping my eyes peeled for a tech 2 diagnostic tool. Should have never thrown the old COP's from the change out back in fall away pretty sure that the front was good at least You know what's worse with these 4cyl COP's is they put the screws for the ICM underneath so it has to come out anyways - might have been the same on the GF's 2.4 Grand Am but that was a heck of a lot easier to pull. All I can say is I've become proficient at pulling COP's and plugs now...(more than I'd like to be anyways) a 10mm swivel socket is a man's best friend, 1/4" drive of course with a 6" extension
  8. Initial diagnosis from when I started working on it Saturday morning: Pulled both coil banks each boot and plug inspecting and reinstalling as I went. The #1 cylinder plug was wet the remaining were clean burning. All the ignition components were replaced in Sept '13. The plug and boot both ohmed out approximately the same as the others as I tested them. While in there tested compression on all cylinders ~140psi and let each hold for 10-15mins with no leak down The ignition coils were under warranty so I went and exchanged the rear bank coil installed and had the same result so I started to think it was fuel related.. Sunday morning I set out to see if an injector was at fault. Lifted the rail and checked with key on for leakby and none noted. Ohmed out all injectors ~12ohms each. I did fix a FI connector to #3 cylinder that had been chewed by a mouse some time ago - buggers made a nest under the intake and chewed through the knock sensor back then ~3yrs ago. Of course that fix made no difference. Anyways continuing on my fuel injector diversion I started pulling one injector plug at a time to see if the misfire cleared - thinking if the fuel was gone from the cylinder I wouldn't have the misfire...right??? As I worked my way through and pulled #7 the misfire went away so I started to believe I had a bad injector/plug/boot on #7..... So I picked up an injector plug and boot installed on #7 - no fix even went so far to track the negative gate pulse wire back to the PCM, while working my way back there I did find a stud that was rubbing on the split in the loom of the harness - though I may have found my culprit but the lead ohmed out under 1ohm - I re-taped it anyways to prevent any future issue. So I'm off in the weeds troubleshooting without a Tech 2 tester to know what cylinder(s) were cause my problem. I had swapped the coils front to back and same result. Drove to the shop for a diagnostic that I wasn't getting right away(that chit irritates me) and had the epiphany to put the plug&boot from #7 cylinder into the #1 cylinder - which was originally wet. First swapped the injector from #7 into #1 cylinder no dice. Installed the old plug & boot from #7 into #1 and put all the coils back in their original place and it purred like a kitten. So moral of the story don't troubleshoot a misfire with my ridiculous method.... In reality I should have changed the plug and boot on #1 cylinder to begin with. Sorry if that is not a "condensed" recap
  9. Not sure if 34psi is too low or not normal I believe is ~40psi Are you losing any coolant? If so it could be small amount is filling the cylinder while it cools off and causes the stumble on startup until it's all burned off. Could be a leaking injector is wetting a cylinder overnight as well I just went through this in a thread below here mine was either a bad plug/boot/injector as I ended up changing some parts around. To see which cylinder is misfiring you need a Tech 2 scanner (my idiot self didn't go this route)- not sure if AAP or AutoZone's etc have this capability and you'd have to have it hooked up when it happens - some one may chime in if the cylinder misfire stores the value. Your DIC will display only the P0300 code when active - it will not tell you which cylinder is the problem child
  10. Thanks for bearing with me guys - I'd love to own a Tech 2 and since It's now fixed and there is no new car payment or hefty shop bill one may be in my future toy tool bag. So after I went up to the local shop the owner was milling around and wasn't gonna give her scan without leaving it there - had to wait for the GF to pick me up on the way home from work. Drove it home pondering why the heck I never changed the injector/plug/boot on the one cylinder that was wet from my original diagnosis(cylinder #1).....I was out thinking myself Installed the injector from #7 that I replaced yesterday - no fix, pulled boot and plug - plug was dry(probably from being warmed up now) but not grayish/brown. Installed plug&boot from #7 and put the coils back in their original position - VIOLA starts right up smooth I rev's idles all back to normal. Thanks for the moral support anyways - I didn't sleep much last night pondering how the heck I was going to fix this or if I was going to end up with a car payment.
  11. Ok so I swapped the coils still had the 0300. Removed injector plug from #7 and the 0300 code clears I get 0207. The vibration feels less prevalent but is still there With injector plug pulled from #1(same coil) the 0300 stays and I get a 0201. Tested for intake leak with both propane and carb cleaner and have no rpm difference - even spraying up underneath from the passenger side of the intake. The PCM connections looked factory new. Tested voltage at each injector connection with key on and get 12V on the positive. I don't have my o-scope at the house to see if the injector negative is gating properly I assume a scanning tool will see this as well. Starting to wonder if the PCM isn't the culprit - any troubleshooting tips for it?
  12. I'm just pulling the codes from the DIC. The 0202,4,6 etc came when I disconnected each injector - I didn't look them up but assume its open injector circuit or something along those lines. They were not there before I started testing. The only code I'm getting with everything hooked up is 0300. I put a screwdriver on each injector and am hearing a clicking noise on each. Going to do a vacuum leak check and PCM connector inspection
  13. Clarify above post(s) - I'm working on the rear bank cylinder #7 - sorry for the confusion Replaced injector first changed nothing. Pulled coil pack and tested cylinder ~145psi, changed plug and boot -still no fix. Just to ensure I didn't disturb anything and create another problem I pulled the injector to #7 again and the misfire 0300 code goes away???? I was browsing other posts around this issue and there was a diagram posted with the crank position sensors feeding the ICM/coils, and one fellow that tried a whole bunch of stuff and showed back up under a new handle saying the CPS fixed his problem. I had mine replaced back around 2004(35k) under the TSB in warranty. Any ideas? I'll probably replace the CPS's or take it to the shop
  14. Started pulling injector connectors one at a time - pulled 0202, 0204, 0206, and 0300 on 2,4,6 cylinders. #8 0300 code went away and pulled 0208. So I'm going to the store for a plug, boot, and injector. Will replace injector first as its the easiest, could swap them I suppose to see if it follows but the on/off of parts is getting old fast. As I was browsing parts online noticed they sell the injector connector, they don't have it in store - anyone ever soldered a new one in? wondering how long the leads are as I would replace my repair from yesterday on cylinder #4. These injectors gate pulse the ground (as I understand) and don't want any funky resistance to cause future issues
  15. Sorry if I mistyped above #1 cylinder is the problem cylinder above not #2. I think I'm going to test the injector and see if it's spraying or dripping when turned on.