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bdiamond last won the day on August 24 2019

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  • Car Model and Year
    1988 Sedan DeVille

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  1. Ok, I got the locking plate clip in. One last problem. I broke the yellow plastic thing that clips on top of the locking plate. I think it is the base for the spring big spring that is in the steering wheel. Anyone if this part is the same for all GM vehicles of that vintage? here is a picture of the paert: http://www.glocktech.net/C/
  2. Yeah, I fiqured it out about 10 min ago. I inserted a bolt into the shaft to lockup the telescope shaft (just like you said). And am using the standard push/puller to squeeze down the locking plate. However, it needs to go down about 1 mm more in order to get the "C" clip into the groves. It is just not seating correctly.
  3. 1988 Cadillac Sedan Deville with tilt/telescopic steering wheel. The turn signal lever came loose. In order to get to the screw, I pulled the steering wheel. But the normal GM locking plate remover that screws onto the steering shaft dosn't work because the telescoping shaft pulls out too far. However, I was able to pry off the "C" clip with a big screw driver and remove the locking plate. But now I don't have a way to push the locking plate down far enough to reinstall the "C" clip. Any Suggestions? TIA
  4. Final post to this thread: The 4.5L is running perfect now, well almost. The intake vavle spring in #8 cylinder had broke into 3 pieces, leaving the valve hung open. This caused very low manifold vacuum, which caused the MAP to signal WOT to the ECM which sent very rich fuel fuel pulse wifth to the TBI (my reasoning). A new spring (from the head reman people, no warr. on the labor) fixed the problem. 180 psi in all cylinders now. All that without any codes. A compression test found the problem. My bad, I didn't think to do a compression test because the heads were new and the car ran good for the first 200 miles. Thanks for the tech help, Caddy group people. Bill
  5. chuga-chuga problem finally found. The intake valve spring in number 8 cylinder failed. Also, the bridge piece that goes from the intake rocker to the exhaust rocker in number 4 cylinder snapped in the middle and a chunk of the bar about 1/4" long was laying in the oil. thanks all for the help.
  6. Carp, carp, carp. Did a compression test today. 180 psi in every cylinder, except the last one tested, #8, dead zero. I tested it 5 times. Zero compression, not even 1 psi. I squirted oil in the spark plug hole: still zero. PS: no coolant found in the oil and no oil in the coolant. Looks like another teardown. I hope City Motor Supply (Dallas) will stand by their cylinder head (assuming it is the head or valves). Thanks a lot to everyone who tried to help. Bill
  7. My digital meter had a low battery yesterday. The IAT is actually reading about 10% low.
  8. the injector pattern looks like a cone. latest update: I swapped the injectors with 2 units from a junk car (85or86 Caddy with 4.5L RWD). I cound not verify if the injectors are calibrated the same as the originals (original: 5235203; used: 5235132). result: engine still chuga-chugs, too rich. tested so far: TPS: good ICS motor: good, (but will set E30 as per TSB 88/10/03 T89-24) MAP: good Basic timing: 10 BTDC Vacuum leaks: can't find any Plug wiring: checked with inductive timing light, all plugs are firing Plugs: new two weeks before problem developed, platinum. Now black with soot/carbon. Oil: good, no water or obvious contanimation IAT: oh no, its bad. It reads from 1.6 ohms (cold) to .44 ohms (hot). I will check again tomorrow to make sure this is right. Would it make sense that the ECM would run the injectors super rich if the IAT is out of wack?
  9. update: fuel tested ok. Problem still exists.
  10. PS: I checked the distributor gears: good, no abnormal wear.
  11. I just check the timing as per instructions. It was a fraction off: 6° BTDC; moved it to 10°. Start car: same problem. After the car sat overnight, it did start this morning,: same chuga-chuga tune. Really, it sounds as if there is water or another contaminant in the fuel. I pump off about a pint of fuel from the fuel pressure test port: can’t see any water in fuel. I am going to pump off about .5 gal and drain my lawn mower and test the fuel. Also, I did the following test: manually cranked the engine at the crankshaft while an assistant carefully watched the distributor rotor for movement. Then slowly backup the crank to the point where the rotor began to move. Did several times to verify. There is 5° of slop. Do you think it would be worthwhile to video the running engine and then make it available for streaming over the Internet so you can hear/see the running behavior?
  12. Crap, it wasn't the injector after all. When I installed the tbi kit, I clipped the lower "O" ring on one of the injectors and that was causing the fuel flood. Corrected that. Now I have strong spark and fuel and it just won't start. it putters. It sure sounds like the timing chain jumped. Anyone ever hear of these 4.5L V8's jumping the timing chain? Can valve timing be checked with removing the timing cover (ugh)? TIA
  13. bbobynski, I picked up a used TBI unit from a junk yard. The used injector is labled: GM5235132*RPD 1295 GM The ones in my 1988 caddy are: GM5235203*RPD 2058 GM Do you know if the used injector will work? TIA
  14. Yes, the injector on the left bank side bleeds fuel (a lot) until the fuel pump shut off. then it slows reduces and stops (about 5-10 seconds). Righ bank injector stays dry. Thanks for the tip.
  15. I will try the injector disconntect tomorrow. Yes, the only trouble code that appeared in the last few weeks since rebuild was E30.
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