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sonjaab

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Everything posted by sonjaab

  1. BBF......It is my understanding that you should never pull the vac. line off a GM FPR while the engine is running. You should pull vac line after running the engine and check for wetness with fuel?
  2. You will prob. end up with a passive aftermarket strut. The active OE front struts are long discontinued and $pendy if you find some. You will also have to add the "kit" to shut off the CCR susp. or SES lights that would follow the active to passive strut replacement. Not a difficult job or repair.
  3. The 84 Z-28 Was a Va. car and had been converted to 134 when new! The a/c did work when I got it. But the comp. locked up so I removed the belt. New Delco comp. $133 bucks on line. I guess with a system flush, evac. and a new charge of r-134 it should work again. This car came with a set of GM t-top sun shields too. First time I ever seen them or found a on line pic and description. Funny there is no water valve in the heater core lines like the older Caddy, olds, etc. Your feet still get hot! I am gonna put a manual valve in the line in the Z-28. Lots of glass in that car even with the shades! The supposed heater "valve" in these 90 Caddys is a strange one too! Still has hot water going to the core. My 84 and 72
  4. Hows that? MMmmmmm Cold a/c Yea it was on the firewall under the beauty cover and un-plugged! Now I can put my Z-28 on the road for summer crusin!
  5. SOB! What a dum-dum I am. I didnt know the location of the lo pres. switch till BBF clued me in! FSM is hard to navigate. Anyhoo, I took off the beauty cover to get to the LPS to jump it and it was DISCONNECTED! I figured it got missed when I had the heater core put in or I figured it was dis. because of the r-134 conversion. Anyhoo I hooked it up and the comp. turned on and I have frigid 34 degree air out of the vents!
  6. Yea the place I took it to said it had some charge in it but not enuff to engage comp. That guy does not do any repairs or diagnosis just fills. I just couldnt figure out where the lo pressure switch was. The FSM is sort of confusing sometimes. So it will jump da switch and see if comp. engages. I have had success using the small cans to recharge tho. Just have to give it another shot......................
  7. Yea I used my FSM and followed inst. to delete comp. lockout code. No luck! Tried several times, disconnected battery. Wasnt sure how to jump the low pressure switch. Couldnt tell if the comp. was engaging or not. Cant actually see the comp. engaging because its buried down underneath. The a/c did work when I bought it in Fla. last year. It was converted to 134. I do have a couple of 20s of r-12 Prob gonna send it to the a/c shop. Figured i would at least try to jump at switch to suck in the 134.
  8. Still having a issue trying to clear the code to engage the a/c compressor to take a charge of r-134. (Yea its been converted) How do you bypass the lo-pressure switch and exactly where is it?
  9. Most big box parts stores, wallyworld and sears will test your alternator running on car. That would rule out bad alt. Im thinkin' the PCM is frying out.
  10. American Sunroof Company AmericaN Specialty Cars The company that "made/assembled" those ragtops for GM!~ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Specialty_Cars Same company that changed/adjusted its name thru the years. Those parts have a GM parts number.
  11. I wonder if ASC would have those "sealing strips" since they converted those Caviliers/sunbirds?
  12. A bit naked so now is the time to add the Jewelry !! PUNCHING OUT THE ADHESIVE FOR THE BACK OF THE SCRIPT! Had to carefully punch it out but it was a china copy $8 special replacement that disappeared in the car wash between Fla and NY! DONE WITH THE SCRIPT AND DEALER BADGE.
  13. As I have posted the repair of my peeling rear bumper cover I now will install a new Caddy script and the selling dealer badge. BEFORE: after:
  14. Yup....I was looking for these "sealing strips" for a pontiac sunbird convt. while in Fla. No luck. It was a nice lo-mile car for $1300 and it needed a top too! https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/products/SEALING-STRIP-Front-Door-Window-Channel/2611831/12360577.html
  15. Why not hunt the parts yard for a BOSE head unit out of another GM car? Usually $100 bucks or so. Then its just plug n play Units after 03? are vin# locked so be warned. Why screw around with parts and non GM pieces? Esp. with that BOSE set up! https://www.ebay.com/itm/C5-Corvette-Bose-Radio-Head-Unit-CD-Player-Model-0930211-00-04/143237020844?epid=656270489&hash=item2159977cac:g:cSYAAOSw0lhcy3Ut:sc:USPSPriority!13074!US!-1 https://www.ebay.com/i/362080892390?chn=ps
  16. Check out these guys for new/used parts, diagrams, and tools for steering columns. http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/
  17. Drop the drives side hush panel and check the connection plugs along with all the fuses and relays and have a look.
  18. All I have to do now is install the Tropical Cadillac dealer badge and a new Cadillac script on the right side
  19. check the pAINT Corner cover slipped on with no issue. Used a air ratchet to tighten the nuts up. Color match looks great! I can see some pops and a sag in the paint but with this rainy weather!
  20. That last shot is what it looked like when i bought the car. Should of waited to post the before and after shots together. Pretty easy fix tho. Sun is out today in Syracuse for a few minutes so I should mount the piece n place to compare the color match. Its got a few pops and such in the paint finish so may sand and re-spray it.
  21. Finally painted the left bumper cover piece. Gotta sand out a few fish eyes and a sag. Darn rain! Single stage paint with a little hardner and laq. thinner PRIMED: PAINTED:
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