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sonjaab

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Everything posted by sonjaab

  1. Anybody know the Cadillac horn notes used in the 70s to the 90s? The horn notes on my 93 Deville sound nothing like horns on my 2011 or my 72 . Anybody know the notes used on the 93 vs. the 72? Or even the various years? Missin' that old school Caddy trumpets sound on my 93!
  2. Thanks G, Shes a Florida fresh grandma car that had 91k miles and nice paint and interior. Needed tires and a heater core. Now a master cylinder. Fixes and parts dirt cheap for these squarebodies! You get your issues worked out?
  3. WOW! Rock auto kicked back my order as "out of stock". I had to order a different unit! Still no local places have the rare unicorn JM-4 master cylinder in stock either! So i wait!
  4. I had the brake light come on in my 93 Deville the other day. So I noted my brake fluid was low and turning on the brake light. Checked to make sure the parking brake wasnt pushed down by accident. I sort of figured the brakes were getting worn down by the 15k miles I put on it during the last year I owned it and figured it was normal so why the fluid being low. A week later the brake light was on again and the fluid was low. So I checked all 4 wheels (have rear drums) and lines. I know see that the firewall is wet with the clear brake fluid. I note the master cylinder is leaking where it bolts to the firewall and the firewall is wet with fluid. So I order a new master cyl. from Rock Auto since NO parts houses near me have a JM-4 master cyl. in stock. (yea those 85-93 square bodies use several different units verified from the RPO list.) So while Im under the hood (in my nice warm garage spinnin the wrench) I guess I will swap out the $30 heater core again! Only $32 bucks for the master cyl. too! Will post the results when done! YES! I do have another car to drive while I wait for the parts.
  5. If it was me and I wanted a bit more GO-FAST in my 3.6 there are a few PCM tuners out there for some simple and easy engine tuning mods for less than $500 bucks. If you also wanna turn wrenches or have a fat wallet there are a lot of aftermarket go-faster goods to install too.
  6. Hmmm replace radiator? Too cold for that here in snow and ice land along with a flushing. So either gonna live with it or at least swap out the core. Thanks for the tips tho..............
  7. All i can say about the air temp door is when the adjustment rod is disconnected and i move it stop to stop the temp would change dramatically from hot to cold after core change out. Where it was cold to lukewarm before core change. I was freezing to death on the trip from Fla to NY after I bought it and stopped at a rest stop in VA and pulled the glovebox to check the air temp door! When the adj. rod is reconnected it moves stop to stop with the accu. from the temp control setting. So I figured that ruled out the temp door operation. Agin I will mention the inlet/outlet positions on the core and the way it sits in the HVAC box and the thinness of the core tubes I figure just a few crushed sealant tab "threads" would clog the core lines. My tech bud mentioned that when i whipped out the old core and broke the plastic tanks off today and we eyeballed it loaded with the tab "threads" and figure its plugged again while drinking a cold one! LOL! SO I guess I am gonna gamble another $30 and replace it. Im COLD!
  8. I know of GM stating the newer N*stars didnt need the sealant tabs from when I had my 2011 DTS. But this 93 Deville 4.9 was Fla. oldster owned from new and I am sure the dealer service sold them a bunch of services! Prob. too may tabs or because of the tabs and the way the core sits in place the tabs load up the bottom of the core.
  9. No infrared temp guage. Hoses in wheelwell and firewall leading to core seem equally hot. But as you guys know that the core stands up mounted in the car and the water inlet/outlets are at the top of the core and the bottom of the core must fill with the sealant tab threads so water flow is not restricted but the area of water being heated is tiny so then poor heat output. I figure this from cutting open my old heater core and noting it half filled with sealant tabs. (no pics on new PC to post)
  10. Nope, Glovebox out and accuators working properly. Temp door fully opens and closes. Yea........another heater core. (not my pics)
  11. BTW: www.steeringcolumnservices.com Has pics, parts and instructions for servicing your loose tilt column !
  12. OT......Yea a backflush would be my first move! BUT its winter here in blizzard and ice land NY and the water hose has been put away and the garage is warm and dry so a wet flush is out of the question. I pondered that last year and figured I would just replace the core as it was "easier" and dryer than flushing! The anitifreeze was yellow and clear and no overheating issues either.
  13. Guys....... Aint no heater valve in these ol' squarebodies! 3 way factory restrictor "tee" in place and temp accuator working properly. HVAC control and temp functions working properly. Just weak heat AGAIN! Am I missing something? (not my pic)
  14. SOB! Im thinking that my heater core is plugged again! I replaced it last Dec/Jan right after I bought the car in Fla. and brought it to NY for my new winter rat! Well the last week or so the heat has been lukewarm like when I bought it. So I figure over the life of the car (90k miles) the dealer went overboard with the "sealant" tabs as the old core was loaded with them. No overheat issues even in the summer in Fla. with the a/c pumpin' out snow All hoses are hot where they should be and as its winter flushing the core is not a option even tho I have a heated garage here in blizzard belt NY! I would rather replace the core instead now that I know how much swearin' and tool tossin' is necessary to disconnect the engine side core hoses!
  15. So I take it you didnt bother to check the fuses/bulbs or test for power either huh?
  16. Do they come on when u rotate the headlight knob or dimmer? Check the fuses? Bust out the test light too.
  17. Heres a used rear air pump sensor unit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Level-Control-Sensor-GM-OEM-22076335-w-Link-Tested-Warranty-Priority-Mail/281676587810?fits=Model%3AEldorado|Make%3ACadillac&hash=item41953ba322:g:R20AAOSwPcVV2~z-:sc:USPSPriority!13074-2109!US!-1
  18. Goran......Window track broke also? Yes you have to buy a new window motor with the plastic track. Less than $100US here. As far a the arm on your rear level. I also have the manual but never really looked at that arm that activated the air pump. Is yours bent or broken? Is there power to the pump?
  19. Hmmm........No more FB posts on this broken line cross post to see if this guy fixed this vapor line.
  20. Roc.....The guy sez the hose is brittle. .I suggested working from the canister back to a good not brittle place on the plastic line. Warming the end with a heat gun and inserting a braSS union and going rubber hose to the canister. He says it carries no fuel. He hasnt came here as I suggested and no more posts on the FB Cadillac Style group from him. Looks like a easy cobb fix too!
  21. A fella with a 91? deville has a broken plastic line to vapor canister. Whats the best way to repair as it sez flammable, not repairable etc. Books shows it to be a vapor line and he sez no fuel running out of ti. I suggested using brass unions and spring clamps to repair. Thoughts or comments? Book canister diagram is too large to attach. Note the broken vent line way down under the PS pulley.
  22. BTW............Have you checked the timing? If hi-miles the timing chain is stretched a bit and could effect timing thus the lag at accel. tip- in. Timing retarded could cause the tip-in stumble/lag. Cheap and FREE look see!
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