samert

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samert last won the day on October 13 2014

samert had the most liked content!

About samert

  • Rank
    Participant (30+ posts)

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    samert111@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Michigan (Rockford)

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2001 & 2003 Deville Base
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

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  1. Kevin, I can help you out if you want. I'm in West Mi. also (Rockford) I have a 2 post lift in my shop and can pull the engine for you, disassemble it and drill and thread the block for a set of studs from Northstar Performance or you can take take the engine and Timesert it yourself if you prefer, but I've only used the NSP studs. I pull the engines out the top so I can just roll the car out of the shop while working on the engine if needed but if you're just doing the head gaskets it could stay in the shop since that could be done in a day or two. I have all the special tools for locking the cams in place, disassembling the heads if needed, rear main seal installation tool, etc. If you wanted to go with the NSP studs the only thing I don't have is the newer 2 mm thread pitch bolts for the stud drill and tap fixture but Jake should include them with the stud kit. PM if your interested. Steve
  2. @Samert: I hear ya now. lol @ me. I have to withdraw my support seeing as how the whole Tim Carroll/Carroll Custom Cadillac thing is a huge hoax: http://www.victimsoftimcarroll.blogspot.com/ Yeah I've been following your blog and it's some interesting reading. I tried to find the history on his FB page once he put it back up but so much has been changed or altered. It seemed to be going good on your project but I couldn't find where the problems started.
  3. Well it looks like CCC is going back into the "Dual Diameter" head stud business according to his website recently. Seems like he was just bashing them that they should never have been used for the N*. ??????
  4. In 2004 the head bolt thread pitch was increased to 2.0 mm which eliminated most of the HG issues but I've occasionally read of them failing also. I think there is an ongoing thread here on a 2005 with a suspected HG issue.
  5. A block test is the definitive test for HG failure and should be performed after an overheating event, not at cold start up. You can rent the tester at Autozone or O'Reillys but will have to buy a bottle of the blue test fluid. Another indicator of HG failing is rough idle for 30 seconds or so at cold start up and then it smooth's out. Also if you remove the expansion tank cap once the engine cools down and you get a significant pressure relief then that's another indicator of HG failure.
  6. They don't have any specifications on the CCC website. It looks finer than the 5/8-11 thread they used on the old stud.
  7. Just posted today on the CCC website. An insert set deep in the block and a stud. Not sure how this 2 pc design is much if any different than the 1 pc dual diameter stud they were using. The block still needs to be drilled oversize for the insert. Not sure of the thread diameter or pitch but it looks like a finer thread than the 5/8 - 11 thread on the studs. They are saying that the dual diameter studs were causing blocks to crack.
  8. Well.... I suspect it may have something to do with the online feud he's been having with the owner of that other company you are referring to.
  9. Yeah... proves my point. that is a "Dual Diameter" head stud in the photo at the top.
  10. Trust me Tim has been selling a dual diameter stud for some time now. Watch the following YouTube video from April 2014 of his machine shop making the studs. Fast forward to 7:35 of the video and his machine shop guy is holding a stud he just made.
  11. Really??? Have you ever seen his website? He talks about his Dual Diameter head studs all over his website, even has pictures of them and videos of how they make them. http://www.carrollcustomcadillac.com/Pages/HeadStudSpecs.aspx
  12. I also used studs (both Head and Main Bearing studs) for my 2001 Deville rebuild and I hear these references about studs causing cracked blocks but I have yet to find anything in writing that confirms this. Does anyone have a link they could provide to any factual claim or even a theory as to why studs can cracks a N* block?
  13. In doing some more reading it sounds like he's going to do the same thing as the CHRFab guys are doing, which according to their website is Time-certs with ARP studs and nuts. Maybe he is going to make his own studs again to go with the Time-certs because ARP studs are expensive. I guess we'll just have to wait until he updates his website.
  14. Anyone have the inside story on what's going on over at CCC and their head studs? Per their website & Facebook page, it appears they are not selling the dual diameter head studs anymore and going with a new 3 pc stud system that apparently allows you to install the studs AFTER the head has been installed. Sounds like they are going with something like a Norms insert with an ARP single diameter stud and nut.
  15. You have an air leak somewhere. Either one of the air shock bellows is leaking, the air line connection at one or both of the shocks is leaking, the connections at the compressor are leaking, or a broken air line. Get a spray bottle of soapy water (window cleaner will work) and with ignition key on the on position (engine not running), the compressor will run for 30 seconds or so and start spraying all the connections & shock bellow looking for bubbles. Cycle the ignition key off/on to get the compressor to run again as needed. I had the same problem on a 03 Deville that I just bought. Turned out the someone had replaced the air compressor and when they put it back together they left out the o-ring between the compressor and the small air tank accumulator. Unlikely that this is your issue but possible I suppose.