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    78 Seville, 87 Fleetwood, 94 SLS, 99 SLS

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  1. Thanks KEH, Jim, and Joeb, I did have a good talk with everybody concerned in this operation, including a mechanic at the GM dealer where this car was purchased. It went something like this: Machinest doing Engine work: I asked if he was going to use T-Serts, he said he would if I wanted him to, but would not guarantee the job. He prefers to drill out the holes and use larger bolts. He said he had used the TS's way back in the past, but had a few failures and had to redo the job. Also said he had fixed many dealer's work using TS's. Said it was a good way for them or small garages to do the work because they usually didn't have the machine tools to do it the way he did. He said he had done probably a hundred or more N*'s and didn't like to have to do his work over for free. As far as the case half, he said he was confused a bit when I brought it up, because he had always refered to it as the crank case cover. When I asked him if he was going to use the GM sealant, he said if I wanted him to, but again would not guarantee the job. He said he used something else, he had used the GM sealant in the past but, that the GM stuff when it set was as hard as a rock and very brittle and sometimes leaked right off. He preferred a sealant that he said looked like tar, and stayed pliable. Also said when he put the halfs together using that sealant, and put the bolts in, after it set, you could remove the bolts and it was still very hard to get it back apart, and would probably run just fine with all the bolts out. Bottom line, he does it his way or no 12 mo 12000 mile warranty. After That Conversation I went to a mechanic at GM who I'm friends with and had the following conversation: I told him what machinist I was using and what he intended to do. My friend said yeah, he used to fix some of our screw-ups and knows what he's doing. He said as far as the larger bolts, that was the way to go, he said his very first job (because he was new and low man on the totem pole) there, had been tearing down and rebuilding a N* back in 94. Said they used the T-Certs because that was the GM procedure, and mostly it worked fine but sometimes not. Said that was usually the reason when someone brought a car in for head repair, and was told it would take a week, and ended up being two weeks. Said the Service Manager told the customer they had to wait on parts, when it was actually being redone at a machine shop. Asked him about the substitute in the block sealant. He said no problem there either, they use it all the time on various other engines themselves, and used the other sealant because GM said to. Said he used it on some valve covers, and had to go back in, (said they didn't leak) and had the devil of a time getting the covers back off. I asked him why they didn't do the job anymore. He said he was the only one there that had ever tore down an engine at that dealer, and he hadn't done one in about four years, or as he said since GM's reconstruction. That they shipped all that type of in-warranty work off to larger dealers, and didn't even do that for out of warranty work. Said he thought the bean counters must have figured up they made more money on oil changes, and small jobs. Talked to the owner of the shop dropping the engine: I asked him if they could do the transmission repair. He said they would look at it after it was off, but couldn't say he would do it or not. Said if it was simple enough without going into the transmission, they probably would, but would rather I had the repair done at a transmission shop. That they were not very knowledgeable on transmissions, and didn't have tools and equipment or inclination to go into one. At least an honest answer I think. There are two very good local transmission shops so I may end up taking it to one of them. Anyway that what I have found out today from talking to these people. Any thoughts? Suggestions? I'm feel I'm sort of stuck, one other local shop will drop the cradle, but won't do the heads, no other shop or machinist local will do the heads. After talking to the GM friend and the machinist, I think he will do a good job. At least I'm hoping so.
  2. Thanks KEH, I'll have to check with them to see if they will do it, or I have to take it to a transmission shop. Their quote for labor to drop and re-install the cradle (no parts repair/replace, gaskets ect.) was $500. This is not their first rodeo with N*'s and they pretty well know what they can make the most money on, and what takes up too much mechanic and bay time. But I'm going to ask today, as they have not started the teardown yet, and may not get to it till next week. They may play dumb, and say they don't know anything about it, but I'm sure they do. For my information, what would be a reasonable price for this repair since the trans will already be out? Thanks Dave
  3. Thanks KEH, After reading the case sealing process, I'd probably have said I did not know the case came apart either. As for the transmission, yeah I got the 741, I thought everyone did, but for as for the procedure to repair it as outlined in the link above, I think I would probably miss seeing that yellow light on the dash. I'll just have to talk to them to see "IF" and "HOW MUCH DID YOU SAY" to turn it off. Thanks Dave
  4. Thanks KEH and Jim, The compressor rattles when AC is on, and it does seem low on freon, I had to add 1 lb last summer, and if I remember right, it rattled before the freon was added, but stopped after. Maybe a leak somewhere? Machinest said he was going to use t-certs, but when I asked him about sealing the case, he said he didn't know it came apart, (has me worried a bit). What should I ask for about the transmission seals, and about the case sealant. I don't know if the place dropping the engine will work on the transmission or not, they basically are electrical specalists, but have a couple of guys that do rebuilds ect. Just won't do northstart head job. NO BODY within 20 miles of here will, not even the GM dealer who used to sell caddys.
  5. Hey all, Just took my 99 sls with 190k miles in today to have head job done. One garage is dropping cradle, and another is doing head job (new waterpump mandatory). I am planning to have starter, and alternator rebuilt, and may replace ac compressor (its starting to rattle a little). Also planning to get case resealed. What other stuff should I replace while its down (besides obvious worn out lines, hoses, and parts). Without the additional work above, estimates are in the 2K to 2200. Still a lot cheaper than almost any decent used car, but I can't afford to replace every thing on it, and everything on it has 190k miles on it. I have been thinking about the TCC solonoid, but all these parts, and gaskets are starting to add up, while my bank account isn't. Any thoughts about above extra work (what is really important and what can wait) and suggestions and advice for the whole job will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dave
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  7. No Rock, been up there, beautiful country, love it. I'm from "down south", Corinth Mississippi to be exact. We don't usually have many salt or cold releated problems, but on the other hand have you ever seen a car with a window blown out from the heat? Or driven down a road that the pavement was melting and you were leaving tracks on it? Or gotten 1st degree burns on you hands from grabbing the steering wheel before you let it cool down? Anyway it cooled off some today, only 95d with an Index of 104d. I better go look for my fur linned windshield scraper and can of de-icer.
  8. Thanks all for the advise. I had this line replaced that day by a dealer while I waited. I asked that all lines be inspected and when the tech was through, before he let it down, I asked if I could also look. We took a flashlite and inspection mirror and examined each one all the way. I have known the tech for about 30 years, and he said he had never seen one rust up like that one did and the others be like new, it was rusted pretty badly from fitting to fitting. He said he had seen it some on cars that come from where the roads are salted but that usually affected all lines about the same. He had no answer for it. No salt on the roads in this area, I dunno, wonder if heat from the brake could have caused it. Anyway, I posted this because others may have similar issues with their brake lines and not be aware of them. I've been driving since Sears sold driver's licenses, and never had an issue with a brake line period, master and wheel cylinders but not the lines. But for sure, I will be inspecting them regularly now. Thanks Dave Dave, it is strange that only one line was bad. I would carefully inspect all of them one more time.
  9. The other day, I was leaving a strip mall in my 99 SLS, I pushed the brake pedal slightly to stop at the street. The pedal went all the way to the floor. I managed to "pump" the pedal and stop. Got out and saw the trail of brake fluid on the parking lot. The brake line that runs from the left side to the right rear wheel had rusted into. About six weeks ago while having my tires changed, I walked under the car and inspected what I could. I remember seeing the line and wondering why it was copper and all the rest were steel. If I had felt it, I would have known it wasn't copper and was about rusted out. I thank my lucky stars I wasn't on the interstate or heavy traffic. All the other lines were in good shape, only the one was rusted. If you haven't done so in a while, Please check ALL your brake lines at your earliest convience. Sincerely Dave
  10. [/size]It's fixed| Great Len, Sounds like you have a great dealer there, if they replaced your engine at 58k for no charge out of warranty, and gave you a loaner while they fixed this problem, you probably owed them the $345.00 anyway. The transmission range switch was on the "Check This" punch list, but a little further down. Glad you got'er going again. Also thanks for posting the fix to the problem!!! So many people will start a thread about a problem, and 27 replys later, they disappear without ever saying they found the fix, had it fixed, or just gave up. I've read through many posts regarding problems I also had, only to come to a dead end. Thanks Dave
  11. Ok Len, I think after reading for a while, that you should check the connectors on the "Powertrain Control Module" (PCM) first, and then the connectors at the "Park Neutral Position" (PNP) switch. Hopefully one of these may clear up your problem. The PCM is located inside of the "air filter" housing. There is a section in your owner's manual that shows you how to change the air filter. When you have the housing unbuckled, (remove these buckles or they will fall off) you can lift up the top front of the housing to access the PCM. There are two connectors on the PCM each held on by a small bolt, (7.5mm I think). The ignition must be in the lock position for at least 30 seconds before you remove the connectors. I personally would lock it, remove the key and disconnect the Negative battery cable. The battery is located under the rear seat. You will need a 13mm socket to unbolt the Negative cable from the chassis. If you don't know how to get to the battery, either let me know, or take it to AutoZone or Advanced Auto, if there is one where you live, and ask them to check your battery. After they check it, tell them not to snap the seat back in place. This will also give you an opportunity to inspect and clean your Battery terminals. If you don't understand how to get into the air filter box, let me know, or ask one of the people at Autozone or Advanced. If you dont have a Torx bit to remove the screw that hold the air duct resonator (the U shaped thing) to the air filter box, you can pick up one while your there also some "electrical contact cleaner". When you get to the PCM, unbolt one connector at a time, remove the connector, inspect for corrosion, damaged wires, ect. Spray the connector and PCM with "Electrical Contact Cleaner". Put the connector back on and remove several times to remove any dirt or corrosion. Then bolt back down and then do the other connector. Put the Air Filter box back together, reconnect the battery ground, start the car and check if you still have the problem. If you do, then we'll move on to the PNP switch. It is located under the throttle body, and you will have to remove the the air duct to the throttle and air filter to get to the two electrical connectors on it. If you have any questions dont hesitate to ask. These two proceedures are the easiest things I could think of you can try before moving on to "Other Cures". Hopefully one or the other will fix the problem. I would have posted some pictures, but couldn't find any that would have made the process any easier to understand. I dont know your level of experience, and this may all be simple stuff to you, so please dont be offended. Thanks Dave
  12. Got the Bud- good transmission level and no codes except for PCM 1520 Forgot to tell you that when you shut off ignition the door lock solenoid activates although since this action they don't auto lock when you put in gear. Does that help? Well, the Bud does. Still reading. Pop a top for me ok? Thanks Dave
  13. Len, The codes you listed are: 1. DIM -B1983 H - DEVICE POWER 1 CIRCUIT LOW 2. IPC -B1983 H - DEVICE POWER 1 CIRCUIT LOW 3. IPM - B1652 H - LOSS OF KEEP ALIVE MEMORY (KAM) 4. IRC - B1760 H - CD CHANGER NOT RESPONDING 5. PCM - P1520 C - TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH CIRCUIT ( UH HOUSTON, WE HAVE A PROBLEM) The first four, are probabaly related to draining the battery down while you were checking the codes. Not a certainty by all means, but most likely. Number 5. Congratulations you have probably proved that my guess about the RIM being bad was all wrong. In brief from what I am reading, is that the computer cant tell what gear your car is in. The RIM has to know when it is in park in order to power the Park/Lock circuit. This is also probably why your feature programming has disappeared from the DIC. Well, while I do some more reading, would you do me a favor? Clear the codes again. Drive to the store and pick up a 6- nah a couple of cases of beer, Bud is fine. when you get back home, check the codes again. Also just for the heck of it check the transmission fluid. Thanks Dave
  14. No I cannot shift out of park with the key out. Oil changes has been the only service and they reset the oil milege. Did the codes and I think I screwed up. They listed No ABS,No AMP No DDM, DIM B1983 His, IPC 1983 His, IPM B1652 His, IRC B1760 His, PCM P1520 Current, No RFA, No RIM, No SDM, No VTD, No MSM, No ttm, No RSS. I ran them again and I inadvertantly cleared them all. I now at your mercy, Thanks again Len Ok Len, Give me a little time to check on these codes. Dont worry about having cleared them, if you got problems, they will be back. Thanks Dave
  15. Len, whatever your last reply was, didnt make it to the message board. Could you please repeat it. Thanks Dave
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