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    96 SLS

emeryrichmond's Achievements


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  1. I gave the muffler shop idea a lot of thought but decided to do it (closer) to right. I started a new thread about how I changed it, so it would be easier to find in the future and might even get into the "how to" archives. That's the best way to describe what mine looked like.
  2. 1. Loosen the right rear lugs. 2. Jack car up until the tire is at least 6 inches off the ground and remove the tire. (otherwise you may not get under the left muffler.) *** If NOT replacing the rubber hoses from the fuel fill tubes to the tank: 3. Loosen the clamps on the 1 1/4" hose and the 3/4" hose at the end of the tube, not the tank. *** If replacing the hoses: 4. Cut them both. 5. Open the fuel door. 6. Remove the three 9/32 sheet metal nuts to the fuel fill tube. *** optional steps to make tube removal easier. 7. Remove 11/16 nut holding the fuel door release, and push the release into it's mounting hole. 8. Remove the four phillips head screws from the plastic fuel fill tube holder to the car fender. 9. Remove three inner fender 9/32 hex head screws and three phillips screws to get inner plastic fender well panel out of the way. 10. Jocky the fill tube in a counter clock-wise direction to pull the tube from its location. 11.Go back and remove the hose pieces still on the plastic tank atachment nozzles.(if you cut the hoses) NOTE: I found it easier to cut the rubber hoses from the tube to the tank because I could not pull them off the tank together, and because the fill tube on my car was so badly corroded the rubber hoses would not come off the fill tube, even after I got it on the bench. NOTE: the 1 1/4" replacement hose just would not go over the plastic tank hose mount nozzle. Even placing the end of the new hose in a pan of boiling water to soften the end didn't work (this usually works). I had to go back to the store and buy 1 1/2" hose and the job went trouble free from that point on. I was able to use a replacement 3/4" vent hose, but you may want to avoid the trouble and go with a 7/8" vent hose. Or you could use a plastic step-down or hose reduction piece in the plumbing section of a hardware store. Cost, about $3.00 for a 1/12" - 1 1/4" and for a 7/8" - 3/4". NOTE: place some masking tape over the ends of the new fill tube to prevent dirt from entering them duting installation. The space you have to twist this tube into is kind of tight. Installation is the reverse of removal except where noted abore. Cost of new fuel fill tube from local Cadillac dealer $254.00 (plus tax) Cost on "gmotors.com" $179.00 (plus tax and shipping) Shop around. NOTE: check your fuel fill tube and if it isn't really bad, you may be able to slide fuel hose over the bad areas and paint a rust stop product on the lightly rusted areas. Total time (not counting running back to the store) 2 1/2 hours. GOOD LUCK
  3. This may not be as helpful as I want to be, but a guy where I work said when he wanted to replace his struts on his 93 Seville, he didn't want to pay the $500 per, so he looked around and found an after market strut that comes w/o the electronics. Then he had to override the code something, I don't have all the facts. But he said he put 4 new struts on the car for a fraction of what the original replacement struts cost. Hmmmm. After re-reading your post I am wondering if Boston Suspention is what he used. Have you done a search on "after-market struts"?
  4. Ouch ouch ouch ouch Make.................Cadillac Model................Seville, SLS Year..................1996 Parts.................fuel filler tube (25656174) Price..................$179.93 freight...............$11.00 (UPS) Total Cost.........$190.93 This is from 'gmotors'. I can't wait to see what my local dealer wants. ouch I just got off the phone with Orr Cadillac in Springfield, Mass. I'm glad I was sitting down. They want $254.15. I guess I have to pay the $190.00, Oh well. Its cheaper than a car payment. Thanks for all you help again.
  5. Ouch ouch ouch ouch Make.................Cadillac Model................Seville, SLS Year..................1996 Parts.................fuel filler tube (25656174) Price..................$179.93 freight...............$11.00 (UPS) Total Cost.........$190.93 This is from 'gmotors'. I can't wait to see what my local dealer wants. ouch
  6. I will Mike. I just have to get to the dealer and order the thing. Any ball park figure on cost? $25 - $40 range, $40 - $75 range, $75 - $100 range, or <gulp> higher?
  7. MAC, EGreen, Ranger, stefank and all, Thanks for the info. I had done a search on "helm inc" and was on another car biook site. Thanks to you guys, I have a two book set on the way to me from HelmInc.com. Thanks again.
  8. Thank you 'BbF', I should have done a search.
  9. On Helms Inc, this is all I could find. 90 – 98 large format manual for Cadillac by Chilton’s for DeVille, Eldorado, Fleetwood, Seville, SLS, STS (94CD_28540) $23.95 I don't think I want a Chilton's, I want the Cadillac shop manual.
  10. Thanks MAC. I'll try to find them on the web.
  11. Sometimes you just gotta have one. The web is great and this forum is a huge time saver, but I think I should probably have a shop manual. I looked on e-bay and there was one new, 2 book set, for $119.00. I think that is a little steep. Can anyone piont me in a different direction? It doesn't have to be new. I have a 1996 Seville SLS.
  12. Hi, I have a leaking (rusted/rotted) gas fill tube on my 96 Seville SLS. I tried to order one from an online parts house, but it turns out the description was a fuel filler tube, but when you click on "more info" it isn't a tube at all, its some electrical connector to the fuel door opener switch. Any way, I was hoping to find out how difficult it is to replace. I was under the car a week or two ago to change the rear brake lines and I noticed how rusty it was. Then I did something kinda dumb. I touched it. Now when I fill up, if I "top off", I get a gas puddle under the car. I am also getting emmisions fault codes. I am pretty sure that they are because the fuel system isn't able to pressurize. I didn't want to go to the dealer (time constraints and $$$). I was thinking of trying to replace the rusty fill tube with rubber hose. There is already ruber hose at the end of the tube and it connects to a plastic fuel tank, so I didn't think that there would be a grounding issue. Has anyone had to replace this part on their car? Oh, by the way, I checked e0bay and they had some for FORDS and one for a DODGE Charger. Thanks for any comments / suggestions.
  13. I am not posting this to ask for help in repairing the car. I am posting this hoping that some unsuspecting Caddy owner doesn't have an accident. My wife was driving our 96 SLS to work yesterday morning and when she tried to stop at the end of the high way off ramp the pedal went to the floor. She ended up going through the stop sign and off the road into a grassy area. She didn't think to use the emergency brake, but I don't think that would have been all that effective. After she stopped, by putting the tranny into reverse (GULP), she called me and since she was just a block from work, I told her to drive with the emergency flashers on and use the e-brake the rest of the way. When I got to the car three hours later there was a rather large puddle under the drivers side from the rear wheel to the front door. I checked to see where the fluid was coming from and the fuel filter (located behinde the rocker under the back door) was soaked with brake fluid. When I got the car home I pulled down the fuel and brake lines. The plastic clip that goes around the fuel filter, and holds the fuel return line and the brake lines had trapped dirt and moisture and rotted the brake lines through. I was shocked to see this much rot on a 10 year old Caddy. If you have a 96-ish Seville, please check this area of your vehicle. I hate to think what would have happened if someone had pulled out in front of her, or if a kid ran out into the street. By the way, I repaired the two brake likes by cutting roughly 20 inch sections of the original lines and installing replacement lines with a double flairing tool. The repair was less than $35.00. Good luck with your inspections.
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