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Everything posted by adallak

  1. Where exactly do you see antifreeze on the ground (relative to your car, not the house )?
  2. Moin moin, We had a good German engineer at the company who greeted us this way every morning. I guess salt is salt everywhere, even in Germany! Everytime I saw someone washing his/her car in the winter time I want to get out of my car and tell them that it's probably more important to wash carefully under the car (brake lines, gas tank etc.). But I never did. I have made a rule to talk to locals only if it is absolutely necessary. Once I asked a sales person at a store where I can dispose used antifreeze. You should have seen how he looked at me...
  3. Oil filter adapter is a known source of leak on 4.9. If that's the case you will need a new o-ring carefully installed.
  4. Oldgamer, Good luck with the new ride. It will serve you well, but you will miss your Caddy. That's for sure. Everytime I drove my GF's Accord, I could not get rid of the feeling I was driving a toy... Show up from time to time.
  5. You'll be really lucky if it is the switch and not the actuator (the link) inside of the column. Remove the airbag fuse and disconnect the battery before you attempt to play with the column.
  6. Might be a broken and stuck actuator deep inside of steering column. You probably need to remove ignition lock cylinder to find out what's wrong. You will need a wheel puller.
  7. No, a bad starter could not affect the fuel economy. Are you sure the problem is the starter? Could be a bad FPR (fuel pressure regulator). What are the symptoms? 6 gallons in 2 days... It says little if anything. Is that a new unit for fuel economy?
  8. I paid $30 for hub-bearing assembly not just a bearing.
  9. I have recenly bought a new ACDelco hub bearing assembly for $30. It is installed and works perfectly.
  10. I think the blip in head gasket issues was due to many neglected 1993 engines with the old green coolant. Owners would neglect the cooling system and the head gaskets would fail around the 1996/1997 timeframe. That's not what I was saying... lots of us have noticed that the vast majority of North*s with head gasket problems were model year 97... with the next largest batch being model year 1998... They didn't fail in 97/98 they were built in 97/98. If you do a search of the historic posts on this and other forums, you will find that at least 8 times out of 10... Threads that start with something like "My Northstar needs to be timeserted" will be discussing a 1997 or 1998 model year car. The statistical correlation with the introduction of DEXCOOL in 96/97 is troubling. On the other hand "stats" was my worse course in University... (C-... barely ) My neighbor just bought a GM van with blown headgasket. I asked what year. 1997...
  11. Correct. Two restrictions. Guru was wrong on this one.
  12. I must say that I haven't had a problem with Stant since I bought it about 3 years ago. It looks like OEM--At least there is no major difference. Mine was from Stant and worked perfectly for six years. I replaced it with a cooler one (180) BBF gave to me. Still keep the old one "jus in case".
  13. What's wrong with Stant? It actually may be the company making private lable thermostats for ACDelco. Do they look different?
  14. First, use only silicon grease. It will make the job easier if you remove the bracket and secure it with a wise to work on the bushings. Yes you can push old one out with a screwdriver and a hammer applying force to several diametral points. Press the new ones into the bracket using the same wise. Leave room for boots. My rear bracket bushing nests were pretty rusted. After I cleaned them up and installed new hardware, I noticed the bushings were a little bit loose, but did not pay attention at the time. Later I have got annoying brake pads rattle. Because of loos bushings the caliper pins and the caliper as a whole piece moves up and down when the wheel hits say a bump, and I get that terrible clunck... I will fix it next spring, I am done with repairs. Driving season is pretty much over as well. LOL
  15. I have both IE7 and Opera installed. When I get tired of IE I switch to Opera and back. LOL
  16. "GM's Cadillac ranks highest among American brands and sixth overall, with a 55.5 percent retention rate." http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20061206/bs_nm/...survey_autos_dc
  17. The same happened to my car in the middle of winter a few yeras ago. I removed the motor, manually brought it to the right position, reinstalled it, and disconnected the motor PERMANENTLY. Do not have any problem since. LOL You still can open the trunk with remote. Some like that cadillacish feature, but I consider that excessive.
  18. I believe the engine bays look pretty much the same. Easily accessible... LOL You'll get a lot of scratches doing front ones. Do the job and you'll see I was right! Rear ones actually easier than front plugs... Plenty of room up there.Just lay on the engine. You do not need to see the plugs, just follow the wires.
  19. Gas drier is harmless, and you can easily calculate the necessary concentration based on the gas in the tank.
  20. Rear ones actually easier than front plugs... Plenty of room up there.Just lay on the engine. You do not need to see the plugs, just follow the wires.
  21. Pumping the gas could actually affect ECM. No? Say ECM sees high TPS signal and may, for example, disable EGRor change ignition timing.
  22. I am with Ranger. Might be a bad contact of wires with plugs. I would first play with connections without pulling the boots (just turning the boots a little bit).
  23. You may need to turn the steering wheel from stop to stop 40 times to get the air out.
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