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Everything posted by adallak

  1. "Why did it take you 13 years to reply? " I have been waiting for GM to change!
  2. Ranger, Unfortunately, not just cars but also almost anything can be poorly designed/conceived. Sometimes you take a shower and wonder if teh guy who designed the shower head EVER actually used it!! The same may apply to toilets, faucets, computers, you name it. People also have that unhealthy itch to modernize good old stuff (and make it unbearable). As for GM, the most annoying thing is that they often know about problems and do nothing about it.
  3. Obviously, I did not mean another Fleetwood.
  4. I am aware of the TSB, never heard of PCM reflash, though. It's been my impression that retuned Corvette's LT1 for use in Fleetwoods was not really well-tuned. The engine is super sensitive to vacuum leaks, EGR, exhaust leaks and a million of other things. Chasing all possibilities on a 22 years-old car is not easy nor it is fun. Most of its life the car was in Florida, I did not drive it much during New England harsh winters either, so it is in a good shape rust-wise. The engine bay is clean, no corrosion. The coil is good as well. If I start to replace every part, which "might be not good enough", I better get a newer car.
  5. I cleaned the tubes inside of the TB on 4.9 regularly, but who knows what was going on elsewhere. I still think the LT1 should not have died because of little pressure on the diaphragm. The Fleetwood is very sluggish now and then. The fuel economy dropped to 10 MPG around the town. It improves by itself, that's what puzzles me and makes me check every possible cause all the time. I know all the usual suggestions - sensors, exhaust leaks, dirty injectors, etc. but you do not do anything , just wake up one morning and the power is back.
  6. This is an LT1 engine. The other day I was testing EGR passages by depressing the diaphragm of the EGR valve with fingers at idle. Despite the engine was warmed up, it died when barely pressed on the diaphragm. I know it indicates that the EGR passages are clean, but it would take much more movement of the diaphragm to make my 4.9 l engine die. It could be an indication that the passages on the 4.9 were in worse shape than the ones on this LT1, but anyway I was surprised. It just means this engine is so much more sensitive to EGR flow.
  7. "The word fob is believed to have originated from watch fobs, which existed as early as 1888. The fob refers to an ornament attached to a pocket-watch chain. Keychains, car starters, garage door openers, and keyless entry devices on hotel room doors are also called fobs." I thought FOB was a mysterious abbreviation...
  8. The goo in my FOB looked like peanut butter! I do not know what the previous owner did to it. In my case, the cleaning alone would not help. I depressed all for switches with ballpoint pen and could hear/feel the difference right away. The action of the rarely used switches was crisp and sound, while the action of two others I would describe as "mechanically worn out". The white plastic material holding the buttons of the FOB wears out at the points of contact as well. So, it is the combination of mechanical deterioration of both switch and plastic membrane. The layers of paper just compensate for that wear.
  9. The leak considerably slowed down for some reason. I was afraid I would have to pump the system up every week. It's been three weeks and the rear does not sag yet. I'll let you know if I cannot find the adapter locally. Thank you!
  10. Thank you very much. It is not the rubber-lined cap that seals the extension, right? It must have some kind of a core inside. This part looks very similar to one in your picture.
  11. Thank you for the offer. Let me first try a couple of local tire shops. My valve is not on the T. Air tubes from the shocks join at theT and another line runs from the T to a piece of the frame behind (or should I say "in front") of the rear bumper. A picture of your extension would help! Thank you.
  12. Rockfangd, Where did you get that steel extension valve core. I still cannot picture the modification you have done. I would definitely modify that plastic setting before it leaves me stranded in the middle of nowhere in cold!
  13. JohnyG and KHE, Thank you fro the replies. I ended up buying and installing these Monroe air shocks. They were only $63 shipped and came with fittings and tubes necessary to connect them to a valve I have mounted behind the rear bumper. All fittings are cheap plastic and unfortunately I have a very slow leak, so every two weeks or so I have to pump them up at a gas station. Not fun! I am afraid the plastic valve will not take such frequent filling. The job was not very easy since there was not much access to the fasteners at the top of the shocks. But a good friend of mine offered his car lift and gave me a hand, so it was not that bad after all. The ride is good.
  14. Okay, then tell us where the edge of your skirt is.
  15. This post is useless without a picture!
  16. The electronic level control (ELC) compressor of my 1995 Fleetwood finally quit. Because the rear struts were leaking anyway, I want to get rid of them and install regular shocks. The rear sags as it is shown in the photo. The edge of the skirt should be some 1.5" - 2" higher. Rockauto has listed gas-charged ones for my car. Question - will the replacement bring the rear to proper level if I keep the original springs? Thank you.
  17. I think it's a good idea to use the pump now and then (I do not use it for months) and keep the fluid reservoir half-empty to reduce the hydrostatic pressure on the washer around the shaft of the motor.
  18. Jim, I have done it twice. Made a working pump out of two bad ones. This time, I just replaced it with a new one.
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