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Posts posted by adallak

  1. 27 minutes ago, rockfangd said:

    There are too many variables here between the 2 issues.

    Stiff steering can be caused by 

    tight balljoints, tie rods, strut bearings, weak pump, column bearings (rare)

    I have never had any issues regarding belt length on these. I usually run a good quality gates or dayco belt. Or ACD when I can find them.

    Look at your tensioner and see where it sits with tension on it normally, If it is good it should be about half way between each limiter. 

    Have you checked your grounds? That can cause issues as well

    The car is pretty clean, have not been neglected. The grounds look okay. Currently, a new ACDelco 6K642 is used.

  2. 4 hours ago, BodybyFisher said:

    By the way, do the belts appear to be glazed from slipping?, if it is slipping I think you would see evidence.

    No glazing at all. I have a half a dozen belts.All look good. Three tensioners, six batteries, the second alternator in 10 years, 40,000 miles ( I do not drive as much as I used to do). 

  3. 1 hour ago, BodybyFisher said:

    Adallak, I hope all is fine.  My gut feeling is that if you had a slipping belt it would squeal.  

    Check the resistance of the battery wires, if they have oxidized they will draw more, and hurt charging.

    Thanks, Mike. Will check the cables again. No squealing whatsoever, but steering is harder than it was when I bought the car. That makes me think something is wrong with tension/belt. 

  4. My car has been killing batteries for years. Several tensioners, belts, alternators, batteries were replaced to no avail. Sure, I measured parasitic drain, voltage drop at cables, etc. I still suspect the belt is slipping. The steering has been harder than it was supposed to be as well. The effective length of the OEM belt is 1633 mm. I found a BANDO 6PK1630, ...1625, ...1620 belts, which claim effective length of 1630, 1625, 1620 mm. What difference in effective length would make the difference between nonslipping and slipping belt? Thank you.

  5. On 8/14/2018 at 10:21 PM, jndnaps said:

    Well the car is idling really high and it fluctuates a lot. I cleaned the TB with it still on the motor and it's pretty much clean. The butterfly? is clean and shiny on both sides. When I ran the codes it gave me the TPS code. I forgot the number. So I'm gonna change that next. So next question, how do I know what way the gasket goes? 

    It could be rather wiring/connector issue than the TPS itself. You can test TPS with  a $10 mutimeter for smooth operation. Just watch Ohms change while moving the lever of the TPS by hand. 

  6. 6 hours ago, BodybyFisher said:

    That link that showed a cracked manifold sounded promising.  Adallak I would look them over close.  

    Dumb question but do you hear exhaust noise under the hood?  I wonder if it's possible that the exhaust isn't heard from the crack but it allows the infiltration of air changing the O2 reading?

    I recall my 4.9 having a very big crack on exhaust manifold right behind radiator. Now, I think it could be the reason for rough idle. But I never had a poor fuel economy. 

    I think I might have an exhaust leak (invisible crack, bad gasket, etc.) which affects fuel economy so dramatically. I can go ahead and replace the passenger side exhaust manifold, gaskets, etc. But, even replacing oxygen sensors was not a fun work at all on this old girl, that's what makes me a bit reluctant...

  7. 20 hours ago, cdgrinci said:

    How did the plugs look when you changed them.  Was the burn good (light tan/crème color); if they were grey, dark grey or blackened that should have given you an idea as to combustion (lean or rich).  Just a thought; ignore, if answered and I missed it.

    Yes I have replaced (perfectly good) plugs. And I check them often. They look good. Spark wires are new as well. 

  8. 20 hours ago, BodybyFisher said:

    I see you have been around HUF, I am finding you in my research.  Someone on an LT1 site mentioned that the O2 sensors can be slow and not set a code killing fuel economy. I need to check my autotap to see is it will link up to an OBD1, if it does I can send it to you and you can check real time data to the norms from the FSM.


    Yes, cracked exhaust manifold is a possibility, but you will not know until you actually take it off... Another PITA job, just like removing oxygen sensors was. And chances are it will do nothing ,just like replacing oxygen sensors did. 

  9. 56 minutes ago, BodybyFisher said:

    That is a shame, I planned to send you an OBD1 real-time analyzer to diagnose deeper than just sitting around waiting for a code to show up, it seems the problem has eluded and defeated you.  That never happens to me, I bird dog it till I find the problem, I tried here but you seem to think everything is  OK even though you are 7 MPG down.  You didn't tell me if you are still in Mass.   I am sure the problem will call you on your cell phone one day and give up, LOL...  Let me know how you want to proceed, I was researching Opti-spark, etc.


    Thank you , Mike. I sent you a message. I know you will not let me sit and wait till  things get better by themselves! LOL

  10. 16 minutes ago, BodybyFisher said:

    Is this Opti-Spark? @adallak

    Have you determined if the transmission torque converter is going into lock up?  That may not set a code.  I know that the P0741 code will cause a hit to the gas mileage in the 4T80E

    Will the O2 sensors set a code if they are slow?   I find it odd that you have never had a code.

    It is possible that the knock sensor is either shorted or open causing a retarded ignition.   Can you get into real time data through the DIC?   Does it feel like a pig, or sluggish?

    Tuned up recently?, AC DELCO plugs?, GAP?, ignition wires checked?, good spark/coil?, cracks or carbon tracking?

    Have you put a vacuum gage on the engine to see what it reads?

    The fuel trim numbers would be revealing.

    Have you checked fuel pressure?   Again, you should check to see if you have a restriction in the exhaust, you can purchase a gauge for that that screws into the O2 sensor port. 

    I have a 94 FSM, Ill skim through it, not sure if it covers your Fleetwood though.

    Are you still in Mass?

    Mike, ALL the subjects you brought up were addressed except for exhaust restriction. Most of replaced parts are ACDelco.  As I said, this car never had a code. Climate control shows any trouble code if you know how to get them, so I check everything now and then. No check engine light ever. I also know that a sensor can be bad and it will take a while to show a code, so I have replaced a lot of things "just in case".  I have the FSM, of course. The vacuum is around 20" Hg depending on a location. It is a bit low, but that's all I have got. Optispark is vented and it works perfectly. Coil, wires, plugs are new and fine.

    Fuel trims would be probably helpful, but I am tired spending more $$$ on this old girl. I am trying to find a success story from someone fixing the problem just like this thread shows.

  11. 2 minutes ago, BodybyFisher said:

    Not sure, but the times I have found a bad FPR, it spit fuel that way.   That was the way I was taught to check them.  I thought your idea of the clear hose was good too. 

    So your symptom is poor gas mileage?   Any codes?  

    Did the poor gas mileage suddenly start?

    No power-train related codes whatsoever and I never had one... There were always driveabilty issues such as sudden lack of power, hesitation, etc, but fuel economy was decent for many years. I have noticed dramatic drop two years ago.  Again, I have replaced every part , which could be responsible. Just wasted money and time, I guess. 10 MPG around the town is just way too much. or should I say too less. 

  12. 2 hours ago, BodybyFisher said:

    Adallak, do me a favor or confirm for me, did you REV the engine up during your test?  Typically when you REV the engine, the FPR will split fuel from its nipple if it's bad.  I usually put a white index card in front of the nipple and rev the engine, a bad regulator will spit fuel

    Mike, I just did what you suggested. No fuel coming from the nipple. I am wondering what revving does to FPR if the vacuum line is taken off. 

    There are FPR tests in the manual suggesting kinking return fuel line, etc, but I am a bit reluctant touching 23 years old hoses. Something tells me the FPR is fine. When I compare this LT1 with 123,000 miles to 4.9 with 175,000 in my 1991 Seville, this engine is so much cleaner and nicer, yet I never experienced lack of power, driveability problems, and terrible fuel economy with my Seville. This engine must have been tuned so that it is just too sensitive to possible exhaust, vacuum leaks, ignition, etc. 

  13. Rejuvenating an old thread. For the last two years, the fuel economy of my 1995 Fleetwood with 123,000 miles on the clock has been 10 MPG around the town. It is 17-22 MPG on a long highway trip. Unfortunately, 90% of my driving is around the town. I have done all the usual checks, which has been pretty much throwing parts at the problem. Still there. New O2 sensors, new exhaust manifold bolts, fuel filter, fuel pump, FPR is fine, injectors are not leaking, fuel pressure within specs, no visible vacuum leaks. I do smell exhaust under the hood but cannot find it. MAF is clean, IAT sensor shows 3.62K at +72F, engine coolant sensor is fine, no powertrain-related codes. EGR valve is new. Ignition is fine, no misses. This is super frustrating and costly. There are some driveability issues (lack of power now and then), but this car had them since the day one and they are not really fuel mileage -related. Transmission lock-up is fine, brakes are fine, tire pressure is fine. It is OBD1 and diagnostics tools are expensive and I am not sure they would help either. Just venting out my frustration and the pain at the pump! :)

    Took off the vacuum line and there IS a very, very faint smell of gas. No gas in the line or dripping from nipple of FPR. I just cannot see how that amount of gas vapor could mess things up. Obviously, there is no fuel loss through that vacuum line at all. 

  14. On 8/24/2017 at 8:38 PM, rockfangd said:

    Glad you changed the filter.

    Get that unknown fuel out of there ASAP.

    I would run higher octane fuel in it.

     I run a minimum of 91 in all I own. 

    that ethanol fuel is not good, even if it sits for a month, it is even worse if the can has sun hitting it.

    drive it like you stole it. Once you think you have it cleared up disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes to reset all parameters so that it can relearn fuel trims etc...

    I am also glad he changed the fuel filter .... 12 YEARS AGO! :)

  15. Things happened so fast and unexpectedly that I did not realize at the moment what was going on. There were was no jerking, hard drop in speed, violent shaking or noise.  I made probably 100-200 yards before I have stopped. I only realized the engine was not running when I could not turn the steering wheel  easily. The gear selector is on the steering column and it is a bit hard to see what gear you are in behind the steering wheel. Yes, it was cranking but not firing up.   

  16. This is so embarrassing... I was driving my 1995 Fleetwood down a hill at around 40 MPH. Wanted to put it in N and instead put it in R... Almost instantly put it back in N, then in D. I realized the engine has stalled only when I lost power steering. Stopped the vehicle and tried to start it to no avail. In about 15 minutes tried again and after several attempts it finally started and drove as if nothing happened! THere is a little noise when I shift from R -N- D or D-N-R (brakes applied).
    Do you think I can get away with this? I will NEVER touch the gear selector again while I am driving. Never.

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