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Dave42

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  1. Like
    Dave42 got a reaction from rockfangd in Power Door Lock Circuit Power Drain   
    Hi guys sorry for not noticing this post before tonight.
    I have the unique privilege of having built a custom Art car from a retired police car.
    The B -Body and G body are essentially the same chassis with and extra 10inches of length added behind the drivers seat.
    I used a complete harness and all amenities from the Fleetwood in the Caprice.
    So I have run through the entire harness and merged.
    That power drain of 5mA is the delayed accessory buss controller pull the module and check again.
    However it never caused a battery drop below 11 volts for me so I always started. I was using a Optima Red that is kind of like a battery backup battery in it's discharge curve.
    If you had 8VAC on the battery during running there was probably a drain through the same bad diode module not measured.
    The cop cars came with a larger 138A alternator and a different drivers side bracket to support the big alternator with the heated front windshield option for the L91 caprice this bracket and alternator can be had from dealer as recent as monday a week ago. It uses a longer belt as well I installed one on my suburban.
    Also that noise in the AC is called slugging I worked for PRO at that time and we had hundreds of complaints but just replaced the compressors during the warranty rather than issue a bulletin. What the issue is , there are two versions of the R4/R11 compressor the R11 has about 50% more displacement but physically the same size. The larger evaporator on the Fleetwood and second Rear AC on  Escalade and Suburban causes liquid to be present on the suction side of the compressor when using a R4 in place of an R11. Hense slugging and compressor failure. 
    If you have the noise then you have a couple of options On g-Body you can swap out the evaporator with a B-body on the GMT400 Escalade and Suburban they went to a Sankyo compressor in 1996 junk yarding can find the complete bracket set , hoses and pulleys for about $150 the Compressor for 60 on amazon
  2. Like
    Dave42 got a reaction from Bruce Nunnally in Power Door Lock Circuit Power Drain   
    Hi guys sorry for not noticing this post before tonight.
    I have the unique privilege of having built a custom Art car from a retired police car.
    The B -Body and G body are essentially the same chassis with and extra 10inches of length added behind the drivers seat.
    I used a complete harness and all amenities from the Fleetwood in the Caprice.
    So I have run through the entire harness and merged.
    That power drain of 5mA is the delayed accessory buss controller pull the module and check again.
    However it never caused a battery drop below 11 volts for me so I always started. I was using a Optima Red that is kind of like a battery backup battery in it's discharge curve.
    If you had 8VAC on the battery during running there was probably a drain through the same bad diode module not measured.
    The cop cars came with a larger 138A alternator and a different drivers side bracket to support the big alternator with the heated front windshield option for the L91 caprice this bracket and alternator can be had from dealer as recent as monday a week ago. It uses a longer belt as well I installed one on my suburban.
    Also that noise in the AC is called slugging I worked for PRO at that time and we had hundreds of complaints but just replaced the compressors during the warranty rather than issue a bulletin. What the issue is , there are two versions of the R4/R11 compressor the R11 has about 50% more displacement but physically the same size. The larger evaporator on the Fleetwood and second Rear AC on  Escalade and Suburban causes liquid to be present on the suction side of the compressor when using a R4 in place of an R11. Hense slugging and compressor failure. 
    If you have the noise then you have a couple of options On g-Body you can swap out the evaporator with a B-body on the GMT400 Escalade and Suburban they went to a Sankyo compressor in 1996 junk yarding can find the complete bracket set , hoses and pulleys for about $150 the Compressor for 60 on amazon
  3. Like
    Dave42 got a reaction from cdgrinci in START OF NEW HOTROD 2002 SEVILLE BUILD   
    Flipped the car around and got distracted with another motor build finished up Wednesday.
    It was pretty fun the guy has a 1977 lasaber with a 1950s style Mexican tuck and roll leather interior completely in purple with white stitching not my style but absolutely beautiful.
    The tear down on his junk yard motor revealed a 1980s top of the line 355 build.
    2256 pistons lightened rods ,internally balanced rotating assembly, old big valve smog heads. Measuring it was great everything was done to the style in 1984.
    Back at that time I raced Nascar and some of the old tricks have been done to this motor. 
    To lower rotating stiction and friction top builders would bore the cylinders with a few thousands taper tight on top of stroke loose on bottom.
    The block was decked down allowing the top land of the piston to be out of cylinder by .030in then they used old perma torque .070 gaskets to space the quench area perfect. Cam bearing journels on the center three had been oversized to true a shifted cam bore after the cylinders had moved with seasoning. 
    Four bolt mains non splayed steel caps.
    Pan skirt milled down .025 for old style block girdle.
    Screw in rear cam plug pinned freeze out plugs.
    The heads are smog heads with 119cc chambers un relieved intake ports not matched, bronze sleeved instead of bronze guides. oring seals no umbrellas.
    I built the motor back a little different.
    I chamfered and cross drilled the crank oil holes,
     Fit Total Seal Zero gap secondaries and Ductile top rings pistons and block only needed minor cleanup.
    I used a .040 stainless ringed graphite head gasket.
    Heads I milled down the valve guides for modern teflon silicon seals and to allow larger lift.
    Cleaned up the shortside radius on intake and exhaust ports, tear dropped the guide bosses in pocket, ground a tulip on the valve head to stem transition.
    Cleaned all of the sharp edges out of the combustion chambers and unshrouded the valve to pocket to 5/16 all around. Matched the gasket on the intake ports opened up the pushrod holes to 7/16 holes, removed the 3/8 studs and installed 7/16 with stainless cast 1.6 roller rockers. Valve springs open at 380LBS closed at 200lbs.
    Set a Stage 3 cam .496 lift 305/290 duration 108 at 103 centerline.
    Motor sounds solid should make 375HP at the wheel.
    I will post a video on starting it on the floor.
     
  4. Like
    Dave42 got a reaction from cdgrinci in START OF NEW HOTROD 2002 SEVILLE BUILD   
    HI ALL NEW TO THE FORUM
    I am about to start on a rebuild of my Seville STS.
    The items to be done or redone are as follows.
    I have an extreme stress job all mental so build the next two cars is my physical release of stress.
    To start with I have a blown gasket and a collapsed lifter. My spouse continued to drive the car and cracked the transmission cooler in the radiator flooding the engine with trans fluid and the trans with coolant. So pretty much toast.
    I have previously upgraded the brakes with Stage III Power Stop rotors and pads works nice but after sitting they require resurfacing. I will be making a polisher to do this as in my home state service providers are afraid of recutting rotors especially when they are drilled. Back in the 1980s I worked for GM as a DCS tech and forensic specialist out of Corvette Action Center and PRO. We had severe issues in Florida with the early Lumina brake systems warping rotors and chattering I designed a KentMoore tool similar to the Jaguar inboard brake resurfacer it uses #m polishing pads rather than cutting bits to resurface the rotors on the car. Pretty simple device bolts to the brake caliper mounting flange  and uses air motor right angle grinders with spirolock pads.
    I have a couple of body issues one is the drivers side back door welt is rusting through under the welt so I will document how to do a simple resign repair, not bondo but epoxy.
    The roof channels have leaked on the electric top since I bought the car new. I am removing the electric roof completely and replacing with a simple after market sun roof with lift out panel. I will be trimming the interior to fit with factory styling.
    Because of the roof leak I have several issues in the interior one is a pretty bad case of mildew. Having restored flood damaged cars in the past I intend to use a Ozone generator to bleach the whole interior for several days. The factory material will be placed with flocked marine canvas and composite leather cloth. I found a great manual shoe stitching machine on Amazon that does a great job at sewing leather. I converted a L91 Caprice police car to a G body Fleetwood interior a few years ago was my main driver for 8 years. The interior stuff is always fun because GM tried to provide common tooling for many of it's vehicles and most mountings are common across many car lines. Not really happy with the Dash on this model I will be building a custom gauge cluster and navigation center using standard desktop PC components and linux open source software.
    The seats are functional but need leather replacement and due to my illness my back has a tendency to tweek on hard turns so I will be setting a pair of racing buckets into the build. If people need seat parts I will have two working units available.
    Since the roof leak was mainly in the drivers side A pillar the electrical seems to have been damaged so not bothering to repair it I will be replacing the whole thing with a new custom harness.
    The suspension was upgrade a few years ago with all new urethane bushings and aftermarket shock absorbers with level ride maintained I will document that process for the build as I will be removing the factory magnaride completely and replacing with a simple arduino based controller. This model of seville squatted nicely when over 90MPH and the ride stiffened greatly the after market struts have air ride built in and are actually stiffer so I have in mind a air valve control that will squat the car and keep it stiff all the time. 
    The engine carriage mounts have already been up graded to urethane and HDPE I will document the process of making the mounts it is actually pretty simple.
    I paid someone to replace the transmission when I became ill thinking that I would bounce back quicker than I have so I will be building the jack and stand system to drop the carrier without the over head lift. Once the front body work is removed from these chassis they easy to work on. Many struggle needlessly to avoid dropping the carrier. A couple of weld up scissor stands and a porta power will get the car 36 inches off the ground lifted from the body welts on the sides. The carrier comes out as you lift the body with a weld up dolly it takes about 2 hours to pull the whole assembly.
    The transmission is a simple bent version of a 4L80E same parts mostly with a heavy chain. The differential will be upgraded to a mini locker like the ones used in the 7 5/8 rear of any GM they cost about $250 it makes some noise when making sharp turns but for HotRod use it stops the crazy unpredictable torque steer when accelerating hard. The week point on these transmissions is the 3-4 apply band and housing the after market has case repair kits for the GMC K series trucks that work in this trans. Another company TCI makes an upgrade kit for sprags and drums clutches and all for the 4L80E that works in this trans. I have not seen a decent High Capacity oil pan for this so I may need to weld one up. The front pump is essentially the same as a 4L80E so I will pick up a stahl convertor once I figure my torque peek.
    My engine has suffered the dreaded over heat than code 300 sporadic miss for years WOT usually cleared it out but after the last run it has an audible noise that matches the miss. Compression is good so I think it is probably a collapsed hydraulic cam adjuster. If it is a core shift in the head I will be documenting how to weld the bore and rebore a new. I am also planning on putting a turbo on this build or maybe a M122 eaton I have to get and accurate pattern for the difference between the XLR heads and the STS heads if there is a difference maybe someone hear knows. I will look at machining the adapters if practical if not turbo it will be. I plan to redesign the exhaust manifolds for this car either way the rear one is basically a modified log manifold. So if I go turbo it will be a mandrel bent log style manifold with a scavenging front pie wedge triY setup. 
    The block will be either timesert or I saw a guy who makes larger studs for these engines I will inspect once apart and determine what course to take. As I am going to boost the engine I plan to add piston bottom oil cooling to help prevent lean burn through. Used it on many of my previous builds using diesel engine main bearing squirter inserts it works nicely.
    As I am boosting and planning on running at Higher RPM I will be looking at methods to stabilize the lower block main caps I can machine steel 4-6 bolt caps or simply girdle the whole bottom of the block I have to look at the webbing in the casting to determine whats needed.
    The pistons are pretty good in these motors is the originals still look good I will lighten them up and plate the tops with nickel the skirts will be coated with Tungsten Disulfide as I have about 4 Kilos of the stuff in my one blasting cabinet. I may select some after market rods once I get some accurate dimensions for them PCE in Australia has a bunch of nice H-beam rods that I have modified for strange builds in the past.
    As for the electronics I will be using my own fuel management system I have a couple of threads on other forums covering the fuel systems I have built.
    My Goal is to produce about 750 crankshaft HP dropping the car down into the 12 second realm. With a mild street presence.
    To do so either the M122 or turbo intake manifold will change so I may lower the engine in the cradle or put a cowl on the hood.
    It will be a fun build I will keep lots of photos and probably some how to videos.
    I figure about twenty or so commercial products will come out of this build so it will get rid of my aggression and please the wife on Total cost involved.
    This is my 50th year of Heavy automotive engineering and actually still love building hotrods.
    Also this is my 17th Cadillac Hotrod starting out with a 472 powered 1972 Chevy Impala with a complete funeral car Caribou interior and trim transplant. Tubbed rear wheels before they became cool. My favorites are the 9 Cadillac Cameros for racing. The guys called the Cadillac motors boat anchors but they started out over 300Hp and with shipyard blowers hit 700-900 easily.
    Look forward to having some fun.
     
     
     
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