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Everything posted by floods

  1. Yes, that what i did, except for S234, i will take it apart this weekend. No, no any aftermarket on the car, all is original including the stereo (just the CD reader who is not working), no after market alarm system, amps is the OEM Bose gold, i just see the anybody cut the wire right in the rear of the stereo system and put it back together, i suspected anybody who try a put a aftermarket stereo and don't know that more complicated ten that on the bose system I agree about IAC, over ISC, i install some of it on some old car i converted with EFI with the Megasquirt ECU, i learn a lot with this ECU, and get lot a trouble with IDLE, using a IAC over the Bosch 2 ways air valve was the right solution and work perfect all time. As you say, maybe the re-manufactured PCM is the issue, since the original is not working long enough to be sure he did the same, i contact the seller and will send the PCM back and get a other one. I will read the post of BodybyFisher again, maybe i miss a detail that can help. Thanks again for help.
  2. Ok, thanks, i will check S234. I already check all ground on ECM, not just visual, i check with ohmmeter each one, clean them, try to move it and see what ohmmeter show.... i check already G100 and G102, i will look more in detail G401 About the ECM, ok, but strange that the old ECM did the same. Thanks again
  3. @Logan I am confused, because the PCM is a remanufactured one, and the old PCM just look to do the exact same issue, but what you say about the PCM has sense for sure. About throttle shaft i don't think, the throttle body is new. Did you see my video ? if yes, can you confirm this is not normal in this car ? About the PROM, that exactly the one i order finally if that not the issue, can only be good to keep it as spare just in case since i plan to keep this car for long. Thanks for help.
  4. Yes, i see this link, but how to be sure, because on the BBC lookup list i found, the BHMU is for the 16180220 PCM, i have the 16180517 PCM so not sure, and is there any advantage ? i don't know, would be great to have the BIN file to read the parameter and see exactly how the ISC work, i did it already long time ago for a Fenix ECU, was a lot of work to find the parameter in the hex file. Thanks.
  5. Yes, i did, turn by turn in, and i do the same out, not getting better, i just notice when it is a lot more out (4 turn more out), it is a bit more smooth, there is not that little RPM increase before getting down. And when the plunger is more in, i notice that when i just touch a little bit the accelerator and release it, the ISC has no time to correct the RPM fast enough and the engine is close from stalling for 1 or 2 sec before RPM get up again. I try about 2 turn in and 4 turn out from the actual position if i recall right. We speak about the PROM, so i did some looking, so the most important is the BCC code (Broadcast Code) mine is the BBSX, that the right according of what i found, and i am lucky because i found one with the BBSX calibration for about $30 i think i will give it a try. Thanks for help
  6. I just finish checking the ECT, all right, this working with a dual curve, below 50°C and above 50°C i check the voltage directly on the PCM and all is right, i check resistance too, but don't see the value in the book, only give the voltage curve, and i check the real temp with the infrared thermometer (a quality one from Fluke), and no issue with the ETC as i see, showing the right temp all time and right voltage. Here a picture of the ISC plunger, the screw is more than halfway in. Thanks
  7. Yes, it is a brand new OEM AC Delco ECT (ref 213928) i change it when i rebuild the engine, i always try to get OEM parts when possible. Actually he get faster in closed loop, not slower, because closed loop is before he get 80°C on the temp, cold the RPM is higher, but normal, not too high, so nothing look wrong, what is wrong is exactly what i show on the video, and that same when engine is cold, but RPM is a bit higher when start the engine cold (normal). Ok, i will do a picture of the plunger, how it is now, is with the right gap and right according to the IDLE cehck in the manual (10 to 11°) The plunger just rotate a little when changing direction (little play, really not much, that the play in the hexagonal hole in the body), the 3 ISC motor i have did the same, the one on the video is a new OEM AC Delco (Ref 217425) Yes, in traffic i have to hold it back, is not that much, it is not dramatic, if really we can't find anything i can drive that way, not a big issue, it was worse with the old ISC motor, because it was getting about 1200-1300 RPM before slow down, with this new one, you can see it is about 1000 RPM, that way much better. It would be nice to find anybody with the same car to compare. Thanks a lot for help.
  8. No i don't, since the temp is showing right, but i will check that to be sure. Thanks
  9. Exactly that what i see too, but mine don't wait to be at 80°C as i know ! and ECT show right, that strange. Did you see my video ? Thanks a lot
  10. Just back from the car, i checked all the ground on the PCM and all the power supply, all is fine, i check the 3 wire from the PCM to the ISC Motor, all is ok (0 Ohm), check between each wire and ground, all right too, the pin A on the ISC Motor is a good ground, no issue, get to G102 (according to the 93 manual) that the ground point on the back passenger side of the engine, who is perfect too. That issue make me crazy 🙄
  11. Video is online, here the link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fH2I4wBJHFg That show exactly the issue, and when engine cold, that the same. Thanks again
  12. @BodybyFisher Ok, so i will check this ground, that can be the issue. No, don't work when hot, as i say the issue is the same engine hot and cold, all the time i have the same issue, when cold you don't feel it that much because IDLE cold is higher, it is really at operating temp that it is the worse, i think that was a misunderstand when you ask me this question : 2) When the engine is warmed up adequately (probably closed loop) the idle settles down and is good (650-700), i say yes, but i mean the the RPM is always right 650 to 700, but too slow to go down to this RPM I try the old PCM, he is really wrong, i was not able to make a IDLE learning before he get the bad IDLE issue, but during the warm-up i get the same issue, so i don't think that the PCM. By the way, my engine calibration ID is 1104 and transaxle is 1305. I will check this ground, and i just did a video, i will put the link when i get it online, so it will be a lot more easy for you to see the problem. Thanks a lot
  13. About the PROM i can agree, look difficult to find, i am in France and the car is a export version sell in Germany in 93. Logan is right, there is no programming option on the Tech II for this car. So today i will try putting back the old PCM, this PCM only get wrong after 15-20min. that let me time to see how the IDLE is. I check the power steering pressure switch, an no problem there, working like it should. @cdgrinci yes in France we have a technical control all 2 year, my control was about 2 month ago, and the smoke test was good, and it can not be a vacuum leak, because i see the ISC motor plunger pushing the throttle plate, if i keep the plunger retracted manually, then no issue, the RPM go down fast and normal, so if there was a vacuum leak, the RPM would no drop faster when ISC is retracted, would be the same, that really the ISC motor who keep the throttle plate too much open and then slowly close it to get the right IDLE. Thanks to all for help.
  14. I see on the diagram on the service manual ISC Check on the page you just send, there is the power steering switch, so look like he is in the IDLE circuit, maybe he can make some trouble, i will check it, i know he work when i check on the Tech II but was not looking in detail. I am know 99.99% sure that not a vacuum problem of calble.... because it is the ISC motor who keep the throttle plate too much open and then slowly close it, can really see it when i look the plunger in action, so he receive a wrong information or something like that. Maybe i should try to put the old ECM back in just to see how the IDLE is and see if the problem is the same or not, because that maybe the new ECM who as a problem....
  15. As i know all ground is connected, but i will double check for sure, on the ECM yes all is connected, sure about that. The ECM is a remanufactured unit from Rockauto, yes it is the right, same OEM number on it, about the PROM i don't see any problem (i mean nothing visible), so hard to say, other than that the cur run just perfect, no issue, MPG look right..... Yes, that the method from the manual i use to adjust the plunger of the ISC motor, and i did this check, in my case, here the result : - PO7 make the plunger extend and retract : Yes - PS03 + cooler button then check PD11 : Engine stall after 5 to 10 sec. and RPM is below 700 RPM. - Then i did the adjustment of the plunger with PS03 to retract and extend then check difference on PD01 i get exactly 10.3 at the last time i did it (value of PD01 with plung retracted what -2.2 and extracted 8.1, by the way is that normal that value is negative when retracted ? ) and what i notice is that he retract low slowly than he extract when using PS03 override, but with PO07 extract and retract is the same speed. About the adjusting screw on the throttle body, i can see the throttle plate just a bit open, really not much, and engine stall, so that way lower than IDLE, service manual say that this adjustment is ok when engine stall and i can't adjust it without removing the throttle body. Yes IDLE settle down at closed loop or at normal operating temp, IDLE is just higher when engine is cold and slowly get lower with engine temp increasing. When engine hot IDLE in P/N is about 650-675 RPM and in D about 600-625 RPM. About the coolant temperature when switching to closed loop, it was about 40°C, just let the time to the O2 sensor to get hot (less than a min. after starting the engine as i recall), according to the manual it is only after 80°C (this information is on the starting of the Fuel and Air control system section), but that was not the case. About the PROM, i don't think my TECH II is a original, i know i already use it to program a ECU for a Cadillac CTS 2003 and it was working. Thanks a lot for help.
  16. I replace the PCM because a really bad IDLE problem, after driving about 15min (sometime more or less) IDLE become crazy, go from 600 to 1500 rpm, i don't get error code, just some time in history i get a 24X signal error (don't remember the code sorry), i check all the wire, to be sure that not the ICM because this happen because a problem of communication between the ICM and PCM, so i check the wire, install my oscilloscope to the right wire and check the frequency and signal, who was right and according to many other thread i find on the web with the same problem, it was the PCM, and that was right, i replace it and since i don't get the big IDLE trouble, just this slow to get down issue, and as i remember i get the same problem with the old PCM. The PROM is the original one as i know, i take it out from the old PCM and put it in the new one. Yes, i think i can see the PROM ID if needed. No plug on the throttle body idle speed screw (not on the old and not on the new) i am not sure there is one on this model, i don't see how it is possible to put a plug like it is made on my version. Thanks a lot for help.
  17. If i push it when idling he don't retract as i know, i have to manually rise RPM and in the same time push the plunger, then he retract, and he retract more than with the DIC method, so to be sure, i did the 2 method, first by pushing the plunger by hand and adjust the gap (that don't work better) so i retract it via DIC and did again the gap adjusting, and get exactly the same result on the idle issue. Thanks for help.
  18. No luck with the static method, with the service manual method the gap it already about 0.030", so i try to go more and try 0.060", no change, i did a learning, but again same result, then i try to extract the plunger a lot more, i notice a little bit faster slow down, but really not better, (he go only up the 1000 RPM before slow down). Look not to be the plunger adjustment who cause the issue, but clearly the ISC get a wrong information, because i leave the PD01 on the cluster (who is the throttle position), and i can see when the the ISC motor activate the angle of the throttle plate keep high and slowly go down, and that not the cable who keep it high, because when the ISC is manually frozen in retracted position, that don't happen, so that confirm there is not cable problem, and not vacuum leak, because it is the throttle plate who stay open too much because the ISC keep it too much open, so now, why he do that. Maybe a little video can help to see better ? Thanks a lot
  19. Perfect, thanks a lot, i will try it tomorrow, just a question about the gap, so it is .030" not .060" or 0.045" ? Thanks again
  20. Thanks a lot, if you don't have time don't worry, nothing urgent It is 10:30 pm here in France
  21. Ok, so i will try the static method tomorrow and see what happen Thanks a lot for help
  22. Thanks for help. Yes, you totally right on 1, 2 & 3, that exactly what happen. Here all my reply in blue : The engine is going into closed loop Yes O2 and air-fuel data is good. Be SURE, in open and closed loop you aren't getting a lean air-fuel ratio indicating a vacuum leak. Yes, right, never get too lean The coolant temp sensor is good yes, TPS is good yes, EGR is good that not 100% sure (that why i will try a other one), TB o-ring replaced yes, linkage not binding yes, checked for vacuum leaks yes and the TB plate closes all the way yes. You don't smell fuel at idle at the exhaust that would potentially indicate a rich mixture no, never. You replaced the TB with a new unit?, is it the correct part number? I don't think so, but is there a throttle body learn procedure? yes, exactly the same part number and check it before install it, no there is nor learn procedure for it. Do you have a coolant thermostat installed? yes a new OEM >>What is your altitude? 280meter (pretty normal altitude) What fuel are you using? i using 98 RON index, so in the USA that 93 AKI index (over premium as i know). << not likely an issue, just to complete the entire picture here I know that not the best way to replace parts, but since that the only part that not new on the engine and was not so expansive parts, i was thinking that not a bad idea to replace it and keep the old as spare, because here in France you don't find any parts, i have to order it in the US, i will just get a EGR valve to try, and i have already a spare ICM that i can try if needed. I see the static method to adjust the ISC plunger, but as i know that not for the Northstar but the 4.9 engine, right ? according to the 93 service manual for the N* i have it right, but tomorrow i will try the static method, can not do anything bad to try it, because as you say, that look too high, the ISC push too much when engage, i will check in the 4.9 section of the manual what they said, because the 93 manual cover the N* and the 4.9. About the minimum air adjustment, yes i have it, i don't touch it, in the manual they said just that at the minimum position, the engine must not run above 450 RPM if it stall that ok, my engine keep running for about 10 sec and stall, i can't really adjust it without remove the throttle body from the engine. Thanks
  23. So, i check the pressure in running condition, all fine... so not a fuel pressure issue. Here some pictures of my engine
  24. Little update, so i did a full EVAP system checking with the vacuum pump, don't have any leak, the valve work right, i change the solenoid just in case and be sure hose are install right, so EVAP system is ok. And just in case i install a new PCV valve. So at this point no difference. I did a fuel pressure test, holding perfectly 45 PSI with ignition ON, no drop, then i did a injector flow test, all of the 8 injectors did exactly the same pressure drop (13 PSI) when acting one by one the same time (with the flow testing mode in the diagnostic mode), in this test i must run the fuel pump manual for 5 sec to get full pressure, then go activate a injector (PS10 if i remember right) that activate the selected injector for small and precision amount of time, and check the pressure drop, make same for all 8 injectors. So, i have no leaking injector and no bad pressure regulator, today i will check pressure in running condition (was too late yesterday). Other possible way is the EGR valve, so i will get a new one monday, will try it, because when i first drive the car after rebuilt, i get a EGR code, can't remember the code, but never get it again, so maybe the problem is there. And if needed i will try a other ignition module and coil (i have a spare one).