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rhdsts last won the day on June 21 2017

rhdsts had the most liked content!

About rhdsts

  • Rank
    Participant (30+ posts)

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  • Car Model and Year
    2003 Seville STS
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

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  1. If you need the software for the Nav unit, let me know. Usually it's only needed if you get a warning screen saying something like 'software not present'. The unit has a back-up battery inside it that should keep settings and software loaded, but if it has failed or run flat, then you need to re-load the software.
  2. I was very lucky to have someone email me the LOADING.KWI file. I burnt it to a CD-RW and it worked. I know that most folks won't care about the original Denso Nav Radio, but if you have an original Seville/DeVIlle and want to keep it that way the Nav Radio's weakness is that if ever the car's battery is disconnected for long enough, there's the risk that the radio's back-up battery will discharge (these batteries are now about 15 year-old, so even more prone to failure now). If the Nav radio's battery fails, the radio loses its software and then you don't have a working radio/CD/Na
  3. I'm trying to revive a Denso Bose Nav system for my Seville (factory OE). I bought it used and the battery that keeps software memory in the unit has obvious gone flat. It's bricked. Only thing it will do is accept/eject discs. A software CD came out in 2006 to fix units that were (already!) showing only a blank screen. GM said to update the AVN system software using an update disc, P/N 19115256. I have been sent the kwi file that was on that disc and burned it to a CD-R and tried loading it into the Nav. It doesn't work; a screen comes up saying it doesn't recognise the disc. H
  4. I checked and it's pretty clean under there. Bad luck really, it looks like the A/C pipe I replaced got caught up with the MAF wires. Just shows it pays to be super careful when replacing parts like that I guess. I soldered the black wire at the back of the plug as it was down to a few strands of wire. I'm helping my daughter with a project (she's making a USB phone charger for her brother for Xmas) and the on the Youtube videl the guy used hot glue to insulate some hard to get to wires. So I used hot glue around the soldered wire on the MAF wiring, then wrapped all with insulation t
  5. We do get rodents here, plenty of them. It could be that a rat got in there, but the problems started not long after I replaced the A/C discharge hose. It was leaking at the rubber section of the line. Either when removing it or replacing it, I might have got the line caught up with the MAF wires. I do remember having to jiggle it around a lot to get it out - it's pretty tight in there - but I was not in a hurry and thought I was being careful. I think I was focussing too much on where the line was jamming up near the right-hand headlight to worry about what was happening with the othr end of
  6. Okay that's it - the MAF sensor wiring shorting out. The wires are in a protected spot under the air intake hose. The only thing that I can think of is that a couple weeks ago I replaced the A/C discharge hose. That runs from the compressor to the condensor, on the other side of the engine. To get the old one I had to pivot the hose towards the other side of the engine. I don't know how, but I must have got it caught up with the MAF wires. I was being super careful. I feel like an idiot. I'm glad I have a spare booster pump, as they are NLA new and hard to find used. They do fail. St
  7. I think I have found the problem. The MAF sensor connector plug - wires are exposed and no doubt shorting out. Any suggestions why this happened, and assuming I can buy a new plug, is it hard to swap out the wires?
  8. Okay I hooked up the pump, turned the ign to 'on' and the pump buzzed for maybe 20-30sec as it pressurised the fluid. Then I switched the ign off. Then I removed the connections to the pump (two plugs: one for the pressure switch, the other for the pump motor) I set the DMM to 200 Ohms (I hope that was the correct setting. Next one up was 20k Ohms, then 20M Ohms). I tested terminals C and B (motor): 1.0 Ohms Then A and B (switch) 0.9 Ohms. Then for comparison, I tested the same pins on the new booster pump (out of the car, so no pressure stored) C and B: 1.0 Ohms
  9. Thank you OldCadTech for your clear and concise suggestions. I am sorry if I have caused friction here, it was not my intention. It's 7.45pm here in Australia, so give it 14 hours or so and I should have some answers on those tests. Thank-you for your help, and your patience!
  10. I'll have to admit I feel as though I am over my head with diagnosing this. I'll replace the booster and let you know how it goes. Thanks for your help.
  11. Okay you've lost me. Whether the circuit is normally open or normally closed (I can't can't see how it can be either, because as you say, it opens and closes all the time to keep brake fluid pressure at the correct level), how does one work out a short to ground? Because I seem to have found a short in the pressure switch circuit that might explain why that 10A fuse keeps blowing. Maybe I have missed the comment, but can anyone confirm that my tests have been conclusive? If not, what do I do?
  12. Yes there is definitely no vacuum booster. Okay so what tests can I do to rule in (or out) the pressure switch (or pump) having a short to ground? So far, the only 'conclusive' test I've done is when I checked resistance at the power wire (dark blue) that connects to the pressure switch. On the wire in the car, I got some odd readings (alternating between 12 Ohms to 0.00) while the new pump (out of the car, testing the pin on the pressure switch itself and earthing to the chassis with one of the DMM pins) read a consistant infinite ('1') resistance. I don't pretend to understan
  13. So to check the pressure switch, do you pin both power in and ground out from the switch with a DMM? Set on Ohms to check that it has infinite resistance?
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