Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Nohilow

  1. tell me more about the driver door module...couldn't it be bad, with no broken wires?...and can it be tested by itself or rebooted?
  2. Howdy, all! All of a sudden, I am having issues with my window switches, especially from my drivers side ...intermittently goes dead, then will make "contact" and work. Is there a routine to "reboot"/ "reset" the window switches....or any thoughts on this? Usually can make the switch function if I stop, and restart the ignition, which makes me think it is a computer or switch issue. The switches have never gotten wet.
  3. I was hoping that there would be more of a market for the old printed service manuals on the second-hand market since they have been replaced by 22" monitors... where did all the paper manuals end up? Gotta be a big old cave in Iron Mountain keeping them safe till after the Aliens and the firefight....
  4. Thanks, Logan. I'll probably be taking a 3-day look at it in the future. I hate line drawings, tho. I really think good old grayscale photo's of a clean engine with clear notation can provide a lot more guidance.
  5. In another post I asked about sources for the GM service manual and was directed to an online service that provides up to date service manuals for a subscription. In my googling, I also found out that a lot of libraries (mine included) give you access to the Chilton Library. I looked at it and it seemed to give me (an on again/off again DIY shadetree mechanic) more questions than it answered. Illustrations were inadequate and did not have easy to understand links to the written instructions. Have any of y'all seen this and what do you think? Can I expect better tech instruction from the GM online manuals? I realize factory service manual have to assume a higher amount of experience for them to not be redundant for the tech, so I'm just wondering what to expect from them.
  6. Logan, I took a look at the site you linked, and before I drop any change on this: When subscribing to the 3-day option for $20, are you able to download or print out the info to keep as a reference? Are you limited in the amount you can download in the 3 day period? Are there any limitation to this 3-day membership (is it a tease?) ...also I will make a separate post regarding a Chilton library I found online. Maybe it will help others...or not.
  7. I've been looking for a source for a service manual and haven't had much luck...any suggestions? Is this the one I would want...: Helm/GM Service Manual ..or ....?
  8. Ha,Ha,Ha...you old cad! The car runs fine...even when it threw the code. looked up this on the Utube and it doesn't look too bad of a fix, maybe a bit time consuming, but all on top of the engine... I can also see how this might appear and disappear ...a small tear/leak could open and close for a variety of reasons...?
  9. Throttle body plenum boot....is this an easily accessible, cheap, no-knuckle injuring fix?
  10. The were listed as current codes, but they vanished last night on a midnite run to 7-11.....where the hell is the emoji for "quizzical look"......
  11. Two new codes popped up...finally getting the hang of the onboard diagnostics...I think i've been missing some of the codes by the way I've been fiddling around with the panel...finally read some directions from the forum...duh! Found this site to look them up: http://www.obdii.com/codes.asp Had a few other codes, but after looking them up, I'm not concerned...DDM B1591 (mirror position issue), and IPM B0429 (Temp control #3 Rear circuit...think its a seat heat issue, again...not concerned with that one either, BUT: PCM P0171: Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1 PCM P0174: Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 2 These are obviously about my fuel system......how can I run these down?
  12. Still mulling over the spark plug R+R that is imminent. By the way, I've looked at some old receipts and it shows a 60K tune up at the old Vic Alfonso Cadillac dealership in Portland, Or. It's at 110K now. I purchased it at 94K a little over a year ago. Been Googling and have seen LOT'S of recommendations/comments on sparkplugs. A recurring thread has been one that I have seen often regarding replacing ANYTHING on the Cadillac. Basically,....stick with OEM. Don't be persuaded by "latest, greatest, shiniest" talk. I am persuaded to do this in regards to my plugs because while the info regarding the Iridium and electrical stuff is great, the greatest factor I am considering is the length of service for the plugs. From what I've read, the Iridium is up to and probably passing 100k miles. Quite impressive, I thought, until I read that the OEM AC/Delco Double Platinum was also rated up to 100k....and it's OEM. This would satisfy both of the boxes I'm considering....and a few bucks cheaper, to boot. Speaking of boots, (nice segue, nohilow), I'll replace them, too. Any suggestions on ones to consider? Silicone or Rubber? I thought all heat and elect pieces and parts would have gravitated over to silicone, but looking at the boot info, it seems there are still rubber ones out there.
  13. Are codes "date/time stamped" for later reference? Can a reader see these time stamps? Can a reader accomplish the same result as the "fast" power down , cable routine? I can see the benefit of knocking all the weeds down to get a good sense of what is happening "now". What other info does a reader give me? Will the small, smart-phone, bluetooth readers I"ve seen advertised for "cheap" do the same thing as a "pro" reader? I got one of those a few years ago...never used it, never plugged it in, never installed the smartphone app. (I was going through personal issues...I think it can be called "Amazon Fever"....( probably much better ones avail now...better go look...maybe not...don't need a relapse!) Lot's of questions regarding the reader, huh?...basically trying to see if it is worthwhile for this old goat to add a "real" reader to his on again/off again mechanics tool box. Can't see it worth my while to spend alot of money, but I have seen some cheaper ones advertised at HF. I normally use HF for throwaway or consumable items, but this may be Really happy with the DTC so far, just looking to improve my game! With y'all's help...
  14. When I am asked if I want to clear all codes, are they permanently deleted? I've seen mention of a procedure to clear codes by touching the unattached battery leads together for a few seconds...why is that different than clearing all codes on the dash? Also, can a code reader find deleted codes?
  15. Thanks for the quick replies, I'll be replacing both of my fobs batteries to get rid of that pesky code.
  16. No other current codes....today... Except....RFA B3109 ...which Google says is: GM; "Keyless entry transmitter low battery: So, my question is: Are we talking about my key fob? By definition it has a KEY, so what is the "KEYLESS entry transmitter" of which they speak?
  17. All the plug choices I've made before were based on sale prices at the time.... Never had a brand loyalty, but I'm only changing them out on one or two vehicles on an as needed basis. That's why I asked here of all the gentlemen who do or have done this on a regular basis...I figure y'all would have strong opinions based on what you have seen in the trenches. A learned opinion is what I am seeking. Since the Northstar layout makes it a more labor intensive job, and the price to upgrade to the Lasers is acceptable (considering the length of service), coupled with the fact that it is an elective surgery at this point, I'm going to seek out an online special, or source for the best price on the Laser Iridium plugs...I'm sure they aren't the plug that is in there now...so will R+R with LI's I've got a bunch of the past receipts for the car work that the previous owner did...and a few tuneups are there... Can anyone give me a date that Laser Iridiums became "a thing"?
  18. So I've decided to take the plunge and change out the plugs on this Northstar beast...watched enough Youtubes that I got the picture on the back side issues, but, OF COURSE, want your valued suggestions and opinions. First issue will be to allow enough time...:) What plugs do y'all recommend? Never had to buy these fancy "laser iridium" plugs before...what's up with that?!! Brands and stuff, best source for plugs? You guys are the best!
  19. Got 'er dun today, about two hours of my grandson's time and attention did the deed. He on his back underneath and me up top and passing the tools. When I picked up the hose from NAPA, I bought an 18mm crowsfoot planning for the worst, as you warned me about the factory-Hulk installed lower end fitting. As it turned out, that was not a hassle at all, didn't have to put any extra-super grunts and groans on it to get it off. Top side pump connection easy-peasy but where we spent all the time was a small clip right below the pump in a very hard to reach place...but eventually got it off and the hose came out from the bottom with a minimum of cussing. Time spent on the re-install was at the same clip, but we won! and about 2 hrs after we started, we were cleaned up. Thanks for all the good tips and things to look out for. Luckily the CadGods shone down their loving light and I am back in my wheels, turning effortlessy, both left and right!
  20. I have a very agile, flexible, determined, mechanical,.....grandson! Sounds like this is a job for our combined talents...his physical, and my supervisorial. Ha! Assuming I can coordinate his datiing, work, lounging, schedule with my needs, we will be tackling this problem as soon as possible. I am now on the hunt for some craigslist car ramps that will be very helpful in the future.
  21. So now a power steering leak has me under it's spell.... Took my baby down to local Les Schwabb tire store and they were kind enough to put it on the rack and we diagnosed the leak to be in the HIgh pressure line. The quoted me about a two hour job, and a part that would cost over 250 big ones....WHOA NELLY! This means about $500 to fix it there.... Since I'd already looked at prices for the assorted power steering parts, before I went knew they weren't getting the job...Took a quick look and assessed that it shouldn't be too much of an issue as long as I got her up on stands to give me a little room. Then went to the Inet and started looking at prices Saw some 150-200 dollar parts for ACdelco OEM stuff, but also some napa prices in the sub $100 range...much better... HOWEVER...there seems to be a few different hoses available for my car, with different bends along the metal parts of the hose. Seems to be one that appears to have an upper and lower segments of solid tube with a couple of bends, with a section of braided hose approx in the middle. a pretty simple design. But there were still those OTHER two designs on the page....how do I narrow it down? SO, I went to ACDelco online, where they asked for my VIN number...now we're getting somewhere...they want the VIN to give me the number of the part for MY CAR in particular...right? Input the VIN and it shot back THREE different high pressure hoses...what gives? So I have a few more questions for you guys. Unless I remove and compare it to one in a store or in a picture, is there a way to zero in on the exact one? From my quick look under the car, it seems to be a pretty simple straight, unbent, possibly flex hose kind of in the middle design. Since it is incased in a plastic shroud/covering, I can't tell if it is flex of just a lazy bend curving under the engine. IS it possible it is a metal high pressure braided flex hose in the middle of two formed ends? Has anyone ever cut out the leaking area of a high pressure hose/tube, and put a piece of tube back in it's place with a couple of couplings? IF it is flex, and if the leak is there, it seems it would be a simple fix to replace the flex with solid tube and a few connecting couplings. I'm not afraid of tubing and couplings... What do you think?
  22. Door alarm has gone away...can't give a reason why it doesn't want to hang around and play with me anymore, I guess I'm a bully....
  23. R + R 'd my driver window regulator a few weeks ago and put it all back together as best as I could. Window regulator works fine. (Napa, approx. $80) Now, occasionally, when I open my door, (even the passenger door) my car alarm goes off, won't cancel with my pendant red button, but will go off when I put key in ignition. A message"theft attempted" shows up on my display. It doesn't seem to do it when I use the remote to open the door locks. I'm hoping that there is a "reset" somewhere to stop this, and will not require me to open up the panel again. Is there some connection I missed on the door? Gurus...do your stuff! signed...Hopeful
  • Create New...