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Everything posted by OldCadTech

  1. We will need more information. There are a lot of places the engine can be leaking from. What model year is the vehicle? Where on the engine do you see the oil? Is the oil leaking on the ground or garage floor/driveway?
  2. Your name looks familiar... Have you been on B4 ??? The factory rep can get more done in less time than dealing with the dealership!
  3. The one on the left should look like the one on the right. The right one is slightly rich but probably because of the A/fuel ratio imbalance. I would concentrate on the left side first. You could, possibly, pass a DEQ test BUT I doubt it. I think the low speed test would do you in. But I've seen stranger things happen at DEQ test stations. You won't get a current E046 on a cold start cuz the system has to be in closed loop.
  4. Lean fuel mixtures cause high NOx. A lean fuel mixture exists when less fuel than required is delivered to the combustion chambers or when more air then necessary is added to the fuel. Very distinct possibility of injector O-ring cracking and leaking, I'm thinking it is sucking TOO much air, BUT yes, a dirty or plugged injector will cause the same problem. To verify, spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner around the injectors and see if the rpm's rise. If the rpm rises change the injector o-rings.
  5. I found this online link https://www.slashgear.com/adding-a-hud-to-your-car-three-options-23338342/ The cell phone option looked interesting. You may have to get that cell phone after all. Don't forget the popcorn
  6. Perry, you can connect auxiliary devices such as an I-pad but you will have to connect them via RCA style connections. I don't have an I-Pad so I can't help much with that. I will PM you the other information. IDK about an add on for the HUD. Maybe someone else does..
  7. Yes, I do know the hack, haven't tried it but don't plan on it either. Distracted driving with cell phones is bad enough, can't imagine what it would be like with movies, popcorn AND a cell phone. This is illegal in every state, why do you want to do this? Okay, someone please pull me off the soapbox...
  8. My first question is, why aren't the rear brakes working? Are the rear brakes adjusted properly? Does the P-Brake hold? The ABS light is on because the PCM could not communicate with the EBTCM, so I think you are on the right track replacing the EBTCM. The other thing that bothers me though is that there are a lot of current Class 2 communication failure codes, which I think is why @Göran W asked if you are sure the battery is good. I have chased UART ( universal asynchronous receiver-transmitter ) codes before and the "nightmare" is that the defective module could be ANY module, whether or not it is indicated by the codes or even a module that seems entirely unrelated. The UART is nicknamed the 1-800 line because ALL the modules communicate on the same communication circuit. Hopefully the EBTCM is the "ONE"...
  9. Basically, it chemically breaks down / softens the seals - see barczy01's post above for the final result. Better to stop using it now and hope for the best.
  10. If the battery charge rate is insufficient when the vehicle is being driven, then the "NORMAL" parasitic draw is too much for the battery to handle when sitting for an over-niter. Once battery voltage drops to 9.6v nothing happens after that, the rule of thumb is that the parasitic draw should be no more than 1/4 of the reserve capacity of the stock fully charged battery in mA (i.e. stock battery is 120 min reserve capacity, maximum draw is 30 mA). If battery voltage is below that, reserve capacity is reduced proportionally AND max draw is reduced as well. IF your charging system AND battery are properly tested and are verified to be "normal" THEN do a parasitic draw test. One more thought for you to consider; Okay 2 thoughts 1) An automotive battery, with the exception of a deep cycle RV "style" battery, is NOT designed to be heavily discharged and recharged. Most "car" batteries will fail from frequent discharge and recharge cycles alone. Also, where you live plays a significant role in battery longevity. When I was working in the Phoenix, AZ area the heat killed MOST batteries in 2 years. In Oregon and Washington it is not unusual to see original equipment batteries still going strong after 7-10 years. 2) If you fix the car and the battery fails in a few weeks, Momma will not be happy and IT WILL be all your fault.
  11. It is not normal for the charging system to vary voltage. KHE had a similar problem recently... Sorry, I didn't make that question very clear. I was referring to parasitic load not starter current draw. From what you are experiencing I would recommend taking the Deville to someone who can diagnose the charging system. It sounds like the generator is only charging the battery intermittently.
  12. Sorry, I'll have to ask a few questions first. 1) Which thread(s) are you referring to? 2) Do you own a 2006 DTS? 3) Have you added any after-market accessories? 4) Have you LOAD tested the battery in the vehicle you're having the problem with? 4a) Have you tested the charging system? 4b) Is it charging more than 13 volts? 4c) How old is the battery? 5) Are the battery cable ends and bolts free of corrosion? 6) Do you have a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) to do the current draw tests?
  13. Very true statement. Also, even though you may not feel it miss, the computer can still "detect" it. The PCM breaks it down in fractions of a second. The MIL will flash until the catalyst damaging condition is no longer present THEN the MIL will stay on steady. If the catalyst damaging misfires exceed 2 the PCM will disable TCC. Have someone with a Tech 2 scan it and verify which cylinder or cylinders is causing the code.
  14. Disconnect the battery negative cable for about 30 mins and restart the Eldo and see if it changes...
  15. I agree, best to fix the 96 and then shop for the Eldo. Too bad ya didn't live a little closer, I have an 02 Seville that will be looking for a new home soon.
  16. THAT's what I thought would happen 'cept for the part about the 02 Eldo....
  17. Thanks, I was familiar with the old school SC and the EFI under the SC but I must have been locked in the closet on the FI on top of the SC. I was trying to picture Port FI. Throttle body perhaps... Quite a project from the sounds of it. Good luck
  18. The catalytic converter does not cause poor fuel mileage. Catalytic converter damage results from rich fuel mixtures, which is poor fuel mileage. If the cat is subjected to rich fuel/air mixtures long enough they will clog and restrict the exhaust, requiring catalytic converter replacement.
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